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PLEASE NOTE: In the autumn of 1995, we hatched the idea for a free, local gardening publication. The following spring, we published the first issue of Michigan Gardener magazine. Advertisers, readers, and distribution sites embraced our vision. Thus began an exciting journey of helping our local gardening community grow and prosper.
After 27 years, nearly 200 issues published, and millions of copies printed, we have decided it is time to end the publication of our Print Magazine and E-Newsletter.

Are wood ashes and sawdust good for compost and the garden?

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Compost is a great way to feed plants with organic waste from the kitchen and garden.

Can I apply wood ashes from my fireplace to my garden beds? If not, is it OK to add to the compost pile? What about sawdust from the workshop?

Applying wood ashes that are free from contamination should be OK if it is done when the garden is not planted and filled with growing plants. Spread a uniform, thin layer of ashes (a covering about the thickness of a sheet of paper) over the garden. This can be done in conjunction with the incorporation of other organic material such as manure or compost. In either case, the ground should then be tilled thoroughly to an 8- to 12-inch depth. It is also OK to add these uncontaminated ashes to your compost pile in moderation.

Sawdust is a good component for a compost pile. Mix sawdust with dense materials such as grass clippings, wet leaves, vegetable remains, etc. This will allow air into the mix. More air speeds up the composting process and cuts down on potential odors. Do not use sawdust created from cutting treated lumber.

Also from Michigan Gardener: Putting flowers in compost pile

Elsewhere: Wood Ash in the Garden

Joe Pye weed adds a stately presence to the fall garden

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With its large pink flowerheads, Joe Pye weed brings bold color to the fall landscape.
With its large pink flowerheads, Joe Pye weed brings bold color to the fall landscape. (Eric Hofley / Michigan Gardener)

As the hot days of summer succumb to the cool, crisp season that is fall, many gardeners choose to take advantage of this great weather for outdoor projects. Of course mums and black-eyed Susans will dominate many landscapes each September, but the huge palette of late performers is sorely overlooked and certainly deserves closer examination. Although there are many fall-blooming plants available, most remain very underused. Far fewer gardeners visit garden centers in the fall, and those that do often just look at the mums, pansies, and spring-blooming bulbs.

Great varieties of asters, anemones, pink turtleheads, toad lilies, sedum, and ornamental grasses are loaded with colorful flowers or beautifully textured foliage. Joe Pye weed (Eupatorium maculatum, syn. Eutrochium maculatum) adds large, stately flowers, a robust growth habit, and durability to your fall plant choices.

Joe Pye weed is native to North America, but is more commonly used in the finest gardens of Europe. In more dry and less fertile conditions, plants may only grow to 4 or 5 feet, but moist, fertile soil will produce plants up to 8 feet tall. Its pinkish purple flowers are produced in clusters that form larger clusters reaching up to 18 inches across. Large green leaves are attached to rich burgundy stems, resulting in a striking contrast of colors on each stalk.

How to grow

Plants prefer full or partial sun, where the stems grow strong and rarely require staking. If extensive soil preparation isn’t your cup of tea, Joe Pye weed may be the plant for you. It thrives in the moist, heavy soil conditions that are typical in mostly clay Michigan gardens. It is long-lived and extremely durable. In fact, a specimen in our display garden was once mistaken for a weed and almost completely removed. It grew back the following year and was covered with the large flowers that butterflies and bees find irresistible. Joe Pye weed spreads slowly but may eventually overstep its boundaries. This can be controlled in spring by dividing the whole clump or simply removing outside sections of the plant’s crown.

'Gateway' is a more compact cultivar of Joe Pye weed, reaching 5 to 6 feet tall.
‘Gateway’ is a more compact cultivar of Joe Pye weed, reaching 5 to 6 feet tall. (Jonathon Hofley / Michigan Gardener)

Companion plants

Joe Pye weed’s massive size makes it perfect to use in the back of a border. Combine it with other large, late bloomers that have contrasting colors, flower forms, and foliage. Try the blue, pink, or purple flowers of asters, especially the taller varieties like ‘Alma Potschke,’ ‘Patricia Ballard,’ and ‘Sailor Boy.’ The huge flowers of hardy hibiscus are available in reds, pinks, or white. Some rudbeckia varieties can also provide equally large plants and brightly contrasting yellow or gold flowers. For a great foliage contrast, try the silver leaves and lavender-blue flowers of Russian sage (Perovskia atriplicifolia). Position the massive architectural foliage of plume poppy (Macleaya cordata) next to Joe Pye weed for a great combination of flowers and foliage. Don’t forget ornamental grasses—some of the larger types like switchgrass, feather reed grass, or maiden grass would provide contrasting foliage and winter interest.

In your front yard, where tidy and multi-seasonal plants are desired, Joe Pye weed may have a place. Its large size and controllable vigor work well in combination with common shrubs. Its flowers fill the need for a sizable fall-blooming plant where only rose of Sharon, summersweet (Clethra), butterfly bush, and blue mist shrub (Caryopteris) are common. Other tidy and multi-seasonal perennials for the front yard include upright sedum, daylilies, hostas, ornamental grasses, and of course, groundcovers.

‘Chocolate’ snakeroot has eye-catching, dark bronzy-purple leaves. (Eric Hofley / Michigan Gardener)

Additional species

For a sturdier, more compact Joe Pye weed, the variety of choice is ‘Gateway,’ topping out at 5 to 6 feet in height. Plus, there are a few other species that are worth mentioning:

The coastal plain Joe Pye weed (Eutrochium dubium) has given us two slightly smaller introductions: ‘Little Joe’ and ‘Baby Joe’, both reaching 4-1/2 to 5 feet tall.

Hardy ageratum (Eupatorium coelestinum, syn. Conoclinium coelestinum) has blue, ageratum-like flowers on 2- to 3-foot tall plants that tend to spread.

Chocolate snakeroot (Eupatorium rugosum ‘Chocolate’, syn. Ageratina altissima ‘Chocolate’) has insignificant white flowers, but dark bronzy-purple leaves on 3- to 4-foot tall plants. ‘Chocolate’ will tolerate some shade. This foliage is incredible when contrasted with other gold, red, silver, or even green leaves.

‘Pink Frost’ (Eupatorium fortunei ‘Pink Frost’) boasts variegated leaves with white edges and pink flowers that pop when contrasted with the foliage.

These varieties, like Joe Pye weed, will tolerate moist, heavy soil, and prefer full or partial sun. 

'Pink Frost' has variegated leaves with white edges and pink flowers that pop when contrasted with the foliage.
‘Pink Frost’ has variegated leaves with white edges and pink flowers that pop when contrasted with the foliage. (Eric Hofley / Michigan Gardener)

As fall approaches, remember that the gardening season is far from over. Gardening becomes even more enjoyable and plants tolerate being moved more easily when temperatures are cooler. Take a moment to evaluate your landscape and see where late season interest is needed. Perhaps try Joe Pye weed to add color, height, texture, and architectural interest to your fall garden.

George Papadelis is the owner of Telly’s Greenhouse in Troy and Shelby Township, MI.

Joe Pye weed

Botanical name: Eupatorium maculatum (u-puh-TOR-ee-um mack-u-LAY-tum); syn. Eutrochium maculatum (u-TRO-kee-um)
Plant type: Perennial
Plant size: 4-8 feet tall; 2-4 feet wide
Habit: Upright
Hardiness: Zone 3 or 4
Flower color: Pinkish purple
Flower size: 6- to 18-inch wide clusters
Bloom period: Late summer and fall
Leaf color: Green, with burgundy stems
Leaf size: 8-12 inches long; lance-shaped
Light: Full to partial sun
Soil: Well-drained, moist soil. Drier, less fertile soil will restrict growth.
Uses: Back of the border, architectural plant
Companion plants: Perennials: upright sedums, ornamental grasses, rudbeckia, Russian sage, plume poppy, tall asters. Shrubs: rose of Sharon, summersweet, butterfly bush, blue mist shrub.
Remarks: Tolerates heavy, clay soil. Size can be controlled with late spring pruning. Long-lived and durable. ‘Gateway’ is more compact in habit.

ELSEWHERE: More photos of Joe Pye Weed (Eutrochium maculatum)

Springtime bulb problems that you can solve in the fall

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Bulbs come up too early

If you want to avoid this problem, plant bulbs deep and don’t plant right next to a sunny south wall.

Bulb foliage may emerge during an extended winter thaw, or come up far enough during an early spring heat wave that we worry it will freeze when normal temperatures return. Relax. That plant may lose leaf tips to the cold, but it’s no big loss. A fully grown tulip or daffodil leaf may be 12 inches long. If it loses an inch at the tip—that part which sits above the zone protected by radiant heat from the soil—the remaining 11 inches is enough to fuel the plant’s growth and bloom.

A hard freeze can hurt if it comes after your bulbs’ flower buds emerge. If a hard freeze is forecast, you can cover bulbs with floating row cover cloth or newspaper to trap ground heat, or run sprinklers during the coldest hours to protect the plants via heat released by cooling water.

Some bulb species are prone to early growth (Dutch iris is an example). If you see a bulb act this way in your garden every year, don’t plant that species or variety anymore. Also, some places are more likely than others to heat up early. Beds along south-facing brick walls are at risk, as are sandy beds that slope south. Recognize these places and don’t grow bulbs there. Finally, some practices contribute to early rising. The most common is too-shallow planting.

Bloom one year, never again

Avoid this by planting your bulbs in full sun this fall. Where it’s already a problem, make site changes to let in more light or move the bulbs.

Most often, failure to bloom means a site is too shady. To flower, most spring bulbs need at least six hours of sun while their leaves are green. Given that, embryonic flower buds form in the bulb this summer to bloom next spring. New bulbs coming from a sunny bulb production field may have enough stored energy to bloom their first spring even in shade. From then on, it’s all downhill.

Shallow planting and summer moisture can also contribute. This is especially true of bulbs that have a tunic (a paper-like covering), such as tulips, daffodils, crocus, and gladiolas. Tunicate bulbs require hot, dry summers. When these bulbs are too cool or moist during summer, they may not form flowers.

The stems flop over before the plants bloom

These daffodils flopped when temperatures dropped suddenly one April day from the 70s to the teens. Within days, they were standing tall and blooming cheerily again. If, however, your bulbs flop even in good weather, the advice below is what you need.
These daffodils flopped when temperatures dropped suddenly one April day from the 70s to the teens. Within days, they were standing tall and blooming cheerily again. If, however, your bulbs flop even in good weather, the advice below is what you need.

In answer to this problem, select sunny spots for your bulbs, keep those beds well watered this fall and again next spring as the bulbs emerge, and use only slow-release fertilizers.

For example, daffodils might have stems that are not strong enough to support the weight of the flower. They either lean over from the base or bend right in the middle of the stem. On the double-flowered varieties, the weight of the bloom may cause the stem to break.

Weak stems are often the result of planting where there is too much shade. For example, daffodils need at least eight hours of sunlight to perform well. When the area is too shady, they often stretch to reach the sun, causing their stems to elongate and become weak.

As far as nutrition is concerned, “balanced” fertilizer is another possible culprit. Daffodils need a slow-release nitrogen in smaller quantities. Too much nitrogen will cause the bulbs to produce lots of weak, green leaves at the expense of blooms. The addition of more potash (potassium) will help produce stronger bulbs, which develop stronger leaves and stems.

Sufficient moisture is critical to daffodils—in the fall to help generate good roots before the ground freezes and again in the spring when the flowers are actively growing. Daffodil stems are hollow and when there is enough moisture, the stem is filled with water, which helps to support itself and the flower. If it’s dry and the stem is hollow, it is more likely to buckle under the weight of the flower.

Leaves emerge fine but quickly discolor and die

Let it be a lesson this fall: If drainage is not perfect, don’t plant bulbs there.

In these cases, the plant also fails to bloom. Bulb rot is often the cause, and poor drainage is the most common contributor to rot. Dig out the suspect bulbs. If the bulbs or roots are discolored and have soft or foul-smelling areas, dispose of them in a hot compost or by burning. Improve the drainage in that area, raise the bed, or switch to plants more tolerant of wet soil. For instance, quamash (Camassia) is generally more tolerant of moisture than tulips.

Failure to exit gracefully

Plan in the fall for a better ending to next spring’s show.

Gardeners love bulbs’ spring show but often hate the clutter factor—the leaves’ prolonged fade. Yet foliage can be clipped away earlier than you may think, if a plant is already full enough. If all you ask is that a plant replace itself each year, not increase its clump size, cut back tulip and daffodil foliage as early as June 1—about two months after the plants emerge from winter rest. If such plants don’t bloom as well the next year, stall that year’s cut by two weeks or replace them with a variety that can put up with our impatient ways.

However, it is simplest to let bulb foliage die back naturally. You can allow this yet reduce the visual distraction by pairing bulbs with late-emerging perennials such as hardy hibiscus (Hibiscus moscheutos) or blue mist flower (Conoclinium coelestinum), or self-sowing annuals such as balsam (Impatiens balsamina) or spider flower (Cleome).

Beneath this kousa dogwood are hundreds of squill (Scilla siberica) that color the lawn blue in April and then are mowed down when lawn clipping begins. Here in late April the squill leaves still show like coarser blades of grass. Even easier, for both gardener and tree: Smother the lawn and then plant the late-emerging, August-blooming groundcover hardy plumbago there (Ceratostigma plumbaginoides) to cover the squills' exit.
Beneath this kousa dogwood are hundreds of squill (Scilla siberica) that color the lawn blue in April and then are mowed down when lawn clipping begins. Here in late April the squill leaves still show like coarser blades of grass. Even easier, for both gardener and tree: Smother the lawn and then plant the late-emerging, August-blooming groundcover hardy plumbago there (Ceratostigma plumbaginoides) to cover the squills’ exit.

Article by Janet Macunovich and photos by Steven Nikkila, www.gardenatoz.com.

RELATED: Proper planning ensures reliable spring bulbs

ELSEWHERE: Naturalizing spring flowering bulbs

Deadline nears for Michigan Big Tree Hunt contest

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ReLeaf Michigan, the only statewide non-profit tree planting and education organization in Michigan, has launched its 15th biennial Michigan Big Tree Hunt contest. The contest, which offers prizes for identifying the biggest trees in Michigan, is open to participants of all ages.

The largest trees in the state can be found anywhere: a backyard, a local park, or a hiking trail. ReLeaf Michigan awards certificates and prizes for the largest tree submitted from each county, for the overall largest tree in different age groups, and for potential state champion trees. Even if the tree submitted is not as large as the currently listed state champion of that species, it’s important to still submit, since the current champion may have died or since been removed.

ReLeaf Michigan started the Michigan Big Tree Hunt in 1993 to celebrate our state’s beauty and create a fun way to gather information about Michigan’s biggest trees. The contest is an opportunity for all age groups to help track these vital historical living landmarks.

More contest details and the entry form are available at www.bigtreehunt.com. Entries are due by August 19, 2022. For questions not answered on the website, please email bigtreehunt@releafmichigan.org or call 800-642-7353. 

How-To: Make a cut edge

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One of the most important parts of gardening is the edge. A nicely cut edge is a treat for the garden and the eyes, but more important, it’s a first-line defense against weeds.

Where do most of your problem weeds come from? Some blow in as seeds, some germinate from seeds that were lying dormant in the soil when you dig in the garden, and some come in with compost and mulch, but most are invaders from the edge. So what edging do you have to stop them? Maybe you have plastic, metal, wood, or no defined edge. Or maybe you have the best of all: a cut edge. Nothing completes a garden better than a cleanly cut edge. 

Perhaps you are wondering how a cut edge (air edge) can work better than the other types. That means that air is the barrier that bars weeds from your beds. Air works as well as the other types of edging and is variable according to the weeds you’re trying to keep out of the garden. You can vary the depth and width of the trench that is the cut edge, depending on how deep the weed’s roots are running that you’re trying to keep out of the garden, and how far the weed’s “arms” reach.

Standard black plastic edging is between 3 and 4 inches deep. Many problem weeds will go deeper and creep under that edge into the beds. A gardener who cuts an edge can simply cut deeper for those that dive below four inches. For weeds that cross into a bed by growing over the ground and rooting from the tips of those branches, the gardener cuts the trench wider.

The steps to make a cut edge

Steps 1 and 2

1. Using a sharp spade, slice down through the turf, then pull back on the handle. This “pops” out the cut turf and part of the garden soil. You do this to help loosen the soil into the bed, which allows for easier pulling of the weeds creeping into the bed from the edge. You can cut an edge any time you want to, but the best time is in the spring or fall, because it has a more lasting effect.

2. Grab the cut piece of the edge and shake the excess soil into the bed. Watch for and pick up pieces of root that fall off. Save your back and vary your activities by cutting just 10 to 20 feet of edge at a time, then stop to remove the sod and weeds you’ve just cut.

Step 3

3. If you feel roots break off from the weedy strip you are removing, go after them. Use a fork to loosen the soil further into the bed and remove those roots. Clean out the air trench, pushing the excess soil into the bed.

Step 4

4. After you are finished, notice that you have weeded at least one foot into the bed. All that is left to weed is the interior of the bed, but the weediest area is under control now. In terms of maintenance, it is ideal to cut an edge 2 or 3 times a year: in the spring and fall, and in the summer if it needs touch-up.

An edge cut in April still looks good at the end of July. A recut of the edge in midsummer will last the rest of the year.
The air edge is used by many of the world’s great botanical gardens. Here a worker is cutting an edge at the Royal Botanic Garden Edinburgh in Scotland.
A cut edge is a wonderful finishing touch on a bed.

Text and photos by Steven Nikkila, www.gardenatoz.com.

MORE TIPS: How to control slugs in your garden

How do you select the right tree care company?

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This mature oak tree provides plenty of shade.
This mature oak tree provides plenty of shade. (Photo: tsg pixels)

by Steve Turner

How do I select the right tree care company? Many times when I’m out on consultations, the homeowner will tell me they have had their trees sprayed, but the problem is still occurring. Or the trees were trimmed, but the crew apparently did not notice a particular pest or disease. How come? This is not always an easy question to answer, but most times it will be that the company just didn’t know or that the situation called for expertise beyond what they offer.

There are basically three types of tree care companies and knowing what their capabilities are should help you decide which type is right for you.

Type #1. The first is the lawn and tree care company that fertilizes your lawn and offers a basic program to spray your trees 3 or 4 times and fertilize them each year. This is a popular option with homeowners because it is fairly inexpensive and the homeowner is already familiar with the company. The drawbacks are that the sprays are done when the company is scheduled to be in your area and, as a result, may not always be timed to treat the specific problems that you might have. Insects have complex life cycles and the timings can vary year to year as to when the best time to treat them is. If you miss this “window,” many treatments will be ineffective and the problem will persist.

These types of companies are fine for covering the basic care in a cost-effective manner. For more serious problems or more advanced treatment, it is advisable to turn to the other two company types.

Type #2. The second type is the company that specializes in pruning and tree removal only. There are more of these than both of the other types combined. There is a wide range, from the weekend warrior with a chainsaw and a pickup truck, to the large company with a fleet of bucket trucks. Choosing between them can often be difficult, because it is not always easy to assess their skill levels until after the work is done. Getting references is important, especially if it is a more complex removal over a house or trimming a large, 100-year-old oak tree. You want the most skilled and knowledgeable tree care professionals to do these types of jobs because you only get one shot at getting it right and there is little room for error.

Asking a few simple questions and paying attention to how they write an estimate can help you determine their professionalism. First and most important is, are they insured? Second is, do they use spikes to climb trees that are to be only pruned and not removed? Unfortunately, protecting your trees from unnecessary damage is not always the top priority of some companies. These two questions can help forewarn you of potential problems.

Next is the written estimate they give you. How much detail do they put into the contract? Are they vague in describing what they intend to do or do they provide a clear description? Can they identify all the species of trees they will be working on or do they just write “large tree in front yard?” The more detailed the estimate is, the less likely you are to be disappointed with the results of the job. The quality of work performed by these types of companies can range from excellent to poor—make sure someone in the company has a good knowledge of proper tree care. There is a big difference in knowing how to climb a tree and knowing what to do once you’re up there. Overpruning is a common problem of some tree companies; every tree needs to be evaluated on an individual basis in regards to its species, health, and age to properly determine what needs to be removed and how much.

Type #3. The third type of company is the complete tree care service that offers a full range of tree care treatments, from fertilization to difficult removals. They will tend to have educated professionals on staff, highly skilled climbers and ground workers, and trained plant health care technicians to identify your problems and treat them. There are probably 20 to 30 of these types of companies in the metro Detroit area and many started out as one of the other types and grew into full service. These companies will tend to have affiliations with professional associations in our industry such as the ISA (International Society of Arboriculture) or the TCIA (Tree Care Industry Association). Look for these logos when hiring a tree company to help ensure quality work.

When writing estimates, they will tend to use ANSI standards to describe the work to be done. This is a national system of defining common tree pruning terms that all can understand and interpret the same way, in order to avoid misunderstandings and variances in services. Examples of these terms would be “crown clean” or “deadwood” to describe what will be removed from the tree. “Elevation” will specify to what height the tree will be raised, such as “10-foot elevation over house.” All these things help make it easier for the homeowner to understand what will be done, as well as receive competitive bids for the same level of work.

Most tree care companies bid by the time it will take to do the work and the amount of equipment needed to do it safely. Most will charge based on their hourly rate and the type of work, and then add on wood removal costs. Full-service companies tend to charge more for their services because their overhead is higher as well as their payroll to attract top professionals to their companies.

It is not advisable to automatically pick the lowest bid to do the work. Often, the lowest bid will also be the least experienced and knowledgeable company. Some might use spikes to climb your trees or take shortcuts that could damage your lawn or landscape. Just remember to keep in mind that you get what you pay for.

Steve Turner, Certified Arborist, is from Arboricultural Services in Fenton, MI.

RELATED: Why is it so expensive to remove trees?

RELATED: Identifying Trees of Michigan

Simple steps to keep roses healthy for the summer

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Photo: Cathy Holewinski

by Nancy Lindley

You can prolong the fabulous show that roses put on in June just by following a few simple steps to keep roses healthy for the summer. Here’s how.

Look at your garden. Are your roses receiving at least six hours of direct sunlight? If not, consider thinning out overhead tree branches. Are they planted too close to other plants? If so, relocate those plants and give your roses some space.

Maybe your roses are planted too close to a wall. Did you know it’s easy to move them by root pruning in summer to get them ready for transfer in fall when they’re dormant? To root prune, cut a circle around the shrub with your spade, much like you were digging them up. However, don’t do that final thrust that rips the roots out. Fertilize as usual, and keep the plant well watered. Do this several times throughout summer. This will create dense, compact roots that respond well to moving. In the fall, dig out your rose with a root ball slightly larger than your pruning circle cut, then transfer your plant to its new home.

Roses need much more water than they receive from typical rainfalls, and more water than home irrigation systems provide for turf grass. How much is enough? It depends on your soil, mulch and air temperature. To determine if your roses need watering, dig a small hole a few inches deep near the plant’s base. Check the soil’s moisture content. If in doubt, water.

Unless your spring fertilizer was a slow-release type, fertilize your roses every month or so during the growing season. To promote repeat blooming, deadhead (remove) spent blooms to prevent the formation of rose hips (seed pods).

Hybrid tea roses have long stems and are good for cutting. Make your cut about one half inch above a leaf cluster with five or more leaflets. A new shoot will emerge above that cluster and just below your cut. To prolong the life of cut roses, take a bucket of warm water into the garden. Immediately after cutting the rose, hold the stem underwater and make a new cut about an inch above the end of the stem. Doing this brings water, not air, into the stem. To condition the roses, place the bucket in a dark, cool room for several hours. Now they’re ready to be arranged in a vase.

Common Michigan pests

While working with your roses, watch for pests or unusual growths and immediately correct any problems. Here are some common insects and diseases that can attack Michigan roses.

Aphids. Small insects that congregate near the tops of roses and suck the life from tender, new growth. Their “honeydew” (waste) is ideal for mold and mildew growth. Remove aphids by hand, or blast them off with a high-pressure water spray daily. On the ground, predators will feed on them. If you must use a pesticide, select a low environmental-impact product, like neem oil or insecticidal soap.

Spider mites. Unlike aphids, spider mites lurk on the lower leaves of a rose. They are difficult to see, but not the problems they cause: lower leaves take on a bronzed, crispy appearance. Spider mites prefer miniature roses and thrive in hot, dry areas. The best treatment is a daily, high-pressure water blast. These mites resist insecticides, but they can be smothered with neem oil.

Japanese beetles. These large, shiny green beetles are common in Michigan and prefer feeding on roses with yellow and white fragrant blossoms. Remove these pests from plants by hand and drop them into a jar of soapy water. Stepping on them may help females release their eggs. Also consider treating your turf to kill the grubs that will become this year’s Japanese beetles. Beetle traps are not recommended because they lure the pests into your vicinity where they might feed on your roses before reaching the trap. Most effective insecticides are fairly toxic and need to be reapplied every few days. More friendly neem oil products are recommended.

Two common types of fungal infections 

Powdery mildew. This gives new foliage a powdery, sugar-frosted appearance, usually in spring or fall. Red roses are prone to this fungus. The best treatment is a daily high-pressure water blast. If you grow varieties susceptible to mildew, consider applying a fungicide every 10 to 14 days. Read application instructions carefully. If your plants are located in an area of poor air circulation, consider moving them.

Black spot. This dreaded summer fungus appears as black spots on lower leaves and occurs because leaves are left wet continuously for seven or more hours. Soon the leaves turn yellow and fall off, then new leaves higher on the plant become infected. Nothing will cure the spots once they develop. However, you may help save your plant by removing all infected leaves and begin spraying regularly with a preventive fungicide.

Perhaps your best “cure” is to prevent this problem (and powdery mildew) from ever occurring in the first place. To do this, bathe your plants with an early morning shower. That way, leaves can dry quickly as the day wears on. Also consider planting rugosa roses, which are highly resistant to black spot. Talk to garden center professionals about other resistant varieties.

Summer pruning of climbers, rugosas, and once-a-year bloomers

Some roses, such as hybrid teas and miniatures should be heavily pruned in late April or early May, before their first bloom cycle. However, the best time to prune climbers, rugosas, and once-a-year blooming antique roses is June. Each year, remove about 25 to 30 percent of their total wood to keep them looking fresh. Do this by sawing out their oldest, woodiest canes at the plant base with a pruning saw. This thinning process encourages new growth from the base and reduces plant size. You can further reduce the plant size by cutting it at the top of the plant, but do this after the major thinning cuts.

Climbers benefit from this late-spring annual thinning. Also in late spring, prune back a climber’s side shoots that emerge along the length of lateral (horizontal) main canes. New blooms will develop at the end of these shoots. Once your climber completes its first bloom cycle, prune these side shoots down so that only a couple sets of leaves are left on each side shoot. This will encourage new side shoots (and blooms) to form.

Follow these few simple steps, and you will be rewarded with beautiful bouquets from June to October.

Nancy Lindley was the co-owner of Great Lakes Roses.

RELATED: Pruning and fertilizing roses

RELATED: Why are my roses changing color?

Website Extra: Reviving a historic home and garden

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Editor’s Note: The following are bonus photos from a profile of Shane Eason and Jac Blanco’s garden featured in the June 2022 issue of Michigan Gardener. To read the full story, pick up a copy of Michigan Gardener in stores or see it in our Digital Edition, which you can read for free by clicking on “Digital Edition” in the upper right corner.

The walk leading to the welcoming yellow front door.
This greenhouse door opens into the yard.
A raised bed garden produces the veggies and herbs.
An antique gazebo dome was the finishing touch to the pergola.
Pink phlox and orange daylilies provide a burst of front yard color.

Vivid summer mornings at the farmers market

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Tomatoes are just one of many things to look forward to at the farmers market.

by Christine Jamieson

Every Saturday morning from May to October, and sometimes during the week, I plunge into a pool of color at the farmers market. In an instant, the world changes from green grass, gray roads and blue sky to vivid technicolor, with sheets of bright annuals—red, yellow, pink, purple, and silver. There are gorgeous perennials and mounds of vegetables in every shape imaginable, a feast for all the senses. Pick up cool, firm green asparagus, feel the hot, sun-ripened smoothness of tomatoes and peppers, the soft downy skin of a tawny peach, the gentle roughness of potatoes and carrots. The whole world is here!

And where did all these people come from at six o’clock in the morning, and all enjoying themselves? It’s as though a film director has gathered everyone together for a crowd scene: the elderly, the young, the middle aged, toddlers stooping to pick up fallen flowers, babies in strollers, dogs tripping up people and barking, geese honking overhead. It’s a summer fashion parade too: exotic hats, shorts, pretty dresses, as well as the more normal jeans, T-shirts and sweats.

Market season begins with the flower growers. In the first few weeks you can buy Michigan wildflowers, early spring-blooming perennials, marigolds, petunias, begonias and more unusual annuals, as well as cut bunches of daffodils, tulips and pussy willow with its furry white paws. The earliest produce includes spinach, asparagus and rhubarb. Sometimes there is a bag of dandelion leaves for salad—a wonderful system toner and tonic. In France, asparagus and artichoke salads rest on a bed of greens, which includes dandelion leaves as well as melt-in-the-mouth goat cheese tartlets, all garnished with sprigs of myrtle, rosemary and violet flowers—a delight to the eye as well as the palate.

Every week at market there is something new, as strawberries are followed by cherries, raspberries and blueberries. Then in the height of summer, the nectarines, apricots and peaches, and eventually the best-tasting apples you will ever find in the state. There are some unusual varieties, ones grown by Thomas Jefferson and George Washington, as well as the more usual Golden Delicious, McIntosh and Granny Smith. If you get the opportunity to sample a russet, Winesap, or an Arkansas Black, go for it. And try the yellow and white cherries in addition to the more traditional black. Occasionally someone will have gooseberries, but if you can’t find them, grow some yourself—one of the best is Poorman: a juicy, fat, red berry which is delicious in pies and crumbles.

Vegetables come and go, English and sugar snap peas, green and purple runner beans, tomatoes, corn, peppers and various brassicas with the last delight of the season, Brussels sprouts, always better after a touch of frost. If you look carefully, there are fingerling potatoes for salads, and sometimes lovely fresh laid eggs.

The perennials are different from week to week. There is a great selection of hardy geraniums and campanulas, unusual hellebores (H. foetidus and argutifolius, as well as orientalis and niger), burnets (Sanguisorba) with flowers like miniature bottlebrushes, and fern-leaf peonies. I searched for years for the potentilla ‘Primrose Beauty,’ a delicate creamy yellow color, and eventually found it, along with a variegated kerria.

Markets have been around as long as man has lived in towns and cities, farmers bringing in their produce to the agora in Greece or the forum in Rome. In Europe, meat, fish and cheese are available as well as produce. In colonial America too, markets were commonplace. When the state capital of Virginia moved from Williamsburg to Richmond in 1779, an ordinance was passed for the establishment of a ‘publick market.’ We are particularly fortunate to have so many in Michigan.

Many of the vendors are professionals, but there are some who have become so passionate about their hobby that they want to share it with others and make a little money while they are at it. The markets attract the young also. I talked to one young man selling strawberries and raspberries who was studying philosophy in college, and to another young couple who enjoyed the market so much that it became their livelihood. There are vendors turning sun-ripened olive oil and the essences of lavender and rose petals into soap; others displaying beautiful photographs of flowers; still others making wonderful dried flower wreaths and arrangements.

There are specialist growers also. At one market, small perennials are sold by an amateur enthusiast who wants to share the exciting plants he has grown from seed. There are people specializing in heirloom roses, Japanese maples, dahlias so perfect you cannot believe they are real, hard-to-find shrubs, and wonderful herbs.

So go to them all—the big markets as well as the smaller ones. Each has its own unique character and soon you will find your favorite. It’s the best way I know to spend Saturday morning.

Christine Jamieson is a Michigan gardener and writer.

Sea thrift

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by George Papadelis

Many good gardeners have fallen prey to the notion that all perennials are low maintenance, long-lived, and long-blooming. Many of these same gardeners became familiar with perennials by buying those plants that were more common and readily available. These often included forget-me-not, delphinium, columbine, hollyhock, and sweet William. These are all beautiful, easy-to-grow plants. However, they are either biennials or short-lived. For the new perennial gardener, this may be the kind of experience that makes perennials “too hard to grow” and can discourage them from ever trying perennials again.

Bloodstone sea thrift (Armeria maritima 'Bloodstone')
‘Bloodstone’ sea thrift (Armeria maritima ‘Bloodstone’) / Photo: www.PerennialResource.com

Many perennials are, in fact, long-lived as well as long-blooming and low maintenance. Sea thrift or sea pink (Armeria) is all of these and much more.

The genus Armeria includes many varieties that vary in height, flower color and size, and leaf shape. All of these have narrow grass-like foliage, and globe-shaped blossoms that range from rosy-red to pink to white. Heights can vary from 2 to 18 inches. The individual flowers last for three weeks beginning in May, but will continue to be produced through July into August if the spent blossoms are removed. One of the unique features of sea thrift is its ability to produce so many showy flowers from a relatively small clump of grassy foliage. 

Sea thrift is native to many parts of the northern hemisphere, where the soil tends to be less fertile and well-drained. The rocky, sandy, unamended soil that sea thrift prefers can usually be attained in your garden by incorporating gritty sand and small gravel into the existing soil. Sea thrift also prefers dry soil and sun. With minimal water, soil preparation, and fertilization, it is a very durable, yet rewarding perennial.

Spanish thrift (Armeria juniperifolia)
Spanish thrift (Armeria juniperifolia) / Photo: Michael Wolf/Wikimedia Commons

One of my favorite species is the tiny Spanish thrift (Armeria juniperifolia). This one has a very tight tuft of needle-like foliage that only stands 1 to 2 inches tall. It is covered with 3/4-inch lavender pink flowers on short stems only one inch above the foliage. After 1 or 2 years, the mound may grow to become only 4 to 6 inches wide. This little gem is outstanding for small rock gardens, miniature gardens, or trough gardens (rustic-looking containers made from a concrete-like material and planted with small rock garden plants). Also look for this one in a white form called ‘Alba.’ 

The most common sea thrift is ‘Splendens’ (Armeria maritima ‘Splendens’). Its species name “maritima” is derived from its tolerance to salt, which enables it to grow along coastlines where few plants can survive. It reaches a larger height of 6 to 10 inches and grows about 10 inches wide. The dark pink flowers are 1 to 1-1/2 inches wide and rise well above the foliage for a more noticeable display from a distance. Use this variety in the front of the perennial border or in a rock wall for compact and showy splashes of color. The variety ‘Bees’ Ruby’ displays even darker pink flowers above 18-inch stems. A selection known as ‘Formosa hybrids’ has wider, longer leaves and produces flowers in a range of colors. All of these are easy to grow and have a long season of color.

'Splendens' sea thrift (Armeria maritima 'Splendens’
‘Splendens’ sea thrift (Armeria maritima ‘Splendens’) / Photo: David J. Stang/Wikimedia Commons

Sea thrifts make great companions to other spring bloomers in full sun. Use their pink flowers in contrast with the blue flowers of other perennials like creeping phlox, dwarf crested iris, or ajuga. Take advantage of their early bloom season by incorporating spring-blooming bulbs such as yellow daffodils or blue grape hyacinths. Don’t forget to include some silver foliage with these pink and blue flowers. Try an artemisia or the non-blooming form of lamb’s ears (Stachys byzantina ‘Silver Carpet’). All of these make great, long-lasting additions to a showy spring perennial border or rock garden.

Armeria promises to provide years of color from plants that ask very little in return. So, if you’re ready to grow some plants that fulfill your original perception of the perennial gardening experience, try the low maintenance, long-lived, and long-blooming sea thrift.

Sea thrift

Botanical name: Armeria (are-MARE-ee-ah)
Plant type: Perennial
Plant size:  Height and width:  2-18 inches, depending on species
Habit: Clump-forming; flower stems rise above foliage mats/clumps
Hardiness: Zone 4/5, depending on species
Flower color: Light pink, deep pink, white
Flower size:  3/4 to 1-1/2 inches wide
Bloom period: May
Leaf color: Green
Leaf size: Grass or strap-like, 1 to 8 inches long, depending on species
Light: Full sun
Soil: Well-drained, infertile and dry 
Uses: Rock garden, front of perennial border, trough garden, stone wall “pockets”
Companion plants: Perennials: creeping phlox, dwarf crested iris, ajuga, lamb’s ears, artemisia. Bulbs: yellow daffodils, blue grape hyacinths.
Remarks: Low maintenance. Bloom time can be extended by removing spent blossoms.

George Papadelis is the owner of Telly’s Greenhouse in Troy and Shelby Township, MI.

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