Archive for the full-sun tag

Sea thrift

May 16, 2022 • Leave a Comment

by George Papadelis

Many good gardeners have fallen prey to the notion that all perennials are low maintenance, long-lived, and long-blooming. Many of these same gardeners became familiar with perennials by buying those plants that were more common and readily available. These often included forget-me-not, delphinium, columbine, hollyhock, and sweet William. These are all beautiful, easy-to-grow plants. However, they are either biennials or short-lived. For the new perennial gardener, this may be the kind of experience that makes perennials “too hard to grow” and can discourage them from ever trying perennials again.

Bloodstone sea thrift (Armeria maritima 'Bloodstone') — **‘Bloodstone’ sea thrift (*Armeria maritima* ‘Bloodstone’) / Photo: www.PerennialResource.com**

Many perennials are, in fact, long-lived as well as long-blooming and low maintenance. Sea thrift or sea pink (Armeria) is all of these and much more.

The genus Armeria includes many varieties that vary in height, flower color and size, and leaf shape. All of these have narrow grass-like foliage, and globe-shaped blossoms that range from rosy-red to pink to white. Heights can vary from 2 to 18 inches. The individual flowers last for three weeks beginning in May, but will continue to be produced through July into August if the spent blossoms are removed. One of the unique features of sea thrift is its ability to produce so many showy flowers from a relatively small clump of grassy foliage.

Sea thrift is native to many parts of the northern hemisphere, where the soil tends to be less fertile and well-drained. The rocky, sandy, unamended soil that sea thrift prefers can usually be attained in your garden by incorporating gritty sand and small gravel into the existing soil. Sea thrift also prefers dry soil and sun. With minimal water, soil preparation, and fertilization, it is a very durable, yet rewarding perennial.

One of my favorite species is the tiny Spanish thrift (Armeria juniperifolia). This one has a very tight tuft of needle-like foliage that only stands 1 to 2 inches tall. It is covered with 3/4-inch lavender pink flowers on short stems only one inch above the foliage. After 1 or 2 years, the mound may grow to become only 4 to 6 inches wide. This little gem is outstanding for small rock gardens, miniature gardens, or trough gardens (rustic-looking containers made from a concrete-like material and planted with small rock garden plants). Also look for this one in a white form called ‘Alba.’

The most common sea thrift is ‘Splendens’ (Armeria maritima ‘Splendens’). Its species name “maritima” is derived from its tolerance to salt, which enables it to grow along coastlines where few plants can survive. It reaches a larger height of 6 to 10 inches and grows about 10 inches wide. The dark pink flowers are 1 to 1-1/2 inches wide and rise well above the foliage for a more noticeable display from a distance. Use this variety in the front of the perennial border or in a rock wall for compact and showy splashes of color. The variety ‘Bees’ Ruby’ displays even darker pink flowers above 18-inch stems. A selection known as ‘Formosa hybrids’ has wider, longer leaves and produces flowers in a range of colors. All of these are easy to grow and have a long season of color.

'Splendens' sea thrift (Armeria maritima 'Splendens’ — **‘Splendens’ sea thrift (*Armeria maritima* ‘Splendens’) / Photo: David J. Stang/Wikimedia Commons**

Sea thrifts make great companions to other spring bloomers in full sun. Use their pink flowers in contrast with the blue flowers of other perennials like creeping phlox, dwarf crested iris, or ajuga. Take advantage of their early bloom season by incorporating spring-blooming bulbs such as yellow daffodils or blue grape hyacinths. Don’t forget to include some silver foliage with these pink and blue flowers. Try an artemisia or the non-blooming form of lamb’s ears (Stachys byzantina ‘Silver Carpet’). All of these make great, long-lasting additions to a showy spring perennial border or rock garden.

Armeria promises to provide years of color from plants that ask very little in return. So, if you’re ready to grow some plants that fulfill your original perception of the perennial gardening experience, try the low maintenance, long-lived, and long-blooming sea thrift.

Sea thrift

Botanical name: Armeria (are-MARE-ee-ah)
Plant type: Perennial
Plant size: Height and width: 2-18 inches, depending on species
Habit: Clump-forming; flower stems rise above foliage mats/clumps
Hardiness: Zone 4/5, depending on species
Flower color: Light pink, deep pink, white
Flower size: 3/4 to 1-1/2 inches wide
Bloom period: May
Leaf color: Green
Leaf size: Grass or strap-like, 1 to 8 inches long, depending on species
Light: Full sun
Soil: Well-drained, infertile and dry
Uses: Rock garden, front of perennial border, trough garden, stone wall “pockets”
Companion plants: Perennials: creeping phlox, dwarf crested iris, ajuga, lamb’s ears, artemisia. Bulbs: yellow daffodils, blue grape hyacinths.
Remarks: Low maintenance. Bloom time can be extended by removing spent blossoms.

George Papadelis is the owner of Telly’s Greenhouse in Troy and Shelby Township, MI.

False indigo growing tips

June 27, 2019 • Leave a Comment

I have 4 false indigos (Baptisia) by my house that were doing great some years ago, but now are very leggy and die off by midsummer. I have 4 other ones near a large pine tree that look magnificent. The ones by my house used to look this way. These plants have been here since we moved into our house 15 years ago. Is there anything I can do to get them back to their full size?

There are two clues in your Baptisia predicament. The first hint is the four plants “near a large pine tree” are magnificent. The second hint is the plants by the house “have been there since you moved in 15 years ago.”

False indigo wants full sun for best performance. Although they like rich soils, they are very tolerant of poor soil and arid conditions, which is what they have around the large pine tree. Since the ones by your house used to look that way, it’s possible a matured tree canopy now diminishes access to full sun. In shade, false indigo gets leggy and needs to be staked. They also spread by rhizomes out from the main base and can consume considerable garden space. Your false indigos have that elbow room out at the pine. The false indigo next to your house may have used up all the space they had available in 15 years, particularly if they are confined by a house foundation and a nearby concrete walk or driveway. There’s no place for them to go.

Since we are moving into the heat of summer, wait until fall to cut back and dig up the false indigos along your house and divide them. Replenish and amend the soil in the area and transplant a limited number of small divisions back to this area. If examining the overhead tree canopy reveals access to full sun is compromised, you can plan to stake the transplanted divisions or simply add them to the great crop you have growing out by the pine.

Transplanting hydrangeas

April 10, 2017 • 2 Comments

I realized that my 3-year-old ‘Nikko Blue’ hydrangeas are planted in full sun and need to be moved. Can I transplant them to another location and, if so, when should that be done? J.K., Canton

Don’t panic and brandish a shovel at your ‘Nikko Blues’ just yet! Your “full sun” could have some ameliorating conditions that dilute the intensity of the light. Although hydrangeas are natural woodland plants, they can handle full sun if moisture is consistent and they are protected from midday sun, the real scorcher of the day. That said, their preference is dappled shade. That can be achieved even with a high tree canopy. Greater consideration should be given to desiccating wind patterns and protection from those.

If you still feel you need to transplant your shrubs, fear not. A hydrangea’s root ball in most cases is quite compact and generally comes out of the ground with a good quantity of soil adhering to its roots. This enables transplanting with a minimum slow down in growth. At three years old, yours should still be a size that you can handle easily. Late spring is the best time to plant or transplant your hydrangeas. Keep as much soil around the root balls as possible. The top of the root ball should be just below ground level in its new home. Make sure you put a little leaf compost in the bottom of the hole and spread out the roots into the new space.

Why is my Russian sage flopping to the ground?

August 4, 2011 •

I have 3 Russian sage plants (2 different varieties) planted in partial to full sun. They are 2 to 4 years old. They flop along the ground and will not grow upright. I remember having a Russian sage several years ago that did the same thing. What am I doing wrong?

Russian sage can flop in mid-season, once it has attained the bulk of its normal height. Partial sun conditions can cause the plant to “stretch” a bit, looking for the sun. Such excessive growth can cause the stems to become top-heavy, and then flop.

The plants like a full day of sun when they can get it. Usually 8 hours is best. They are also drought-tolerant once they become established. If they are kept warmer and drier, you’ll frequently find they tend to stay somewhat shorter and more compact, and are more able to hold themselves upright.

There are supports available that consist of a ring that has a grid in it. The plants will grow through this grid, and partially hide it while they grow. So, if you have given Russian sage all the sun that you can, and the plants still flop over, try using one of these supports, or even a regular peony ring.

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Sea thrift