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PLEASE NOTE: In the autumn of 1995, we hatched the idea for a free, local gardening publication. The following spring, we published the first issue of Michigan Gardener magazine. Advertisers, readers, and distribution sites embraced our vision. Thus began an exciting journey of helping our local gardening community grow and prosper.
After 27 years, nearly 200 issues published, and millions of copies printed, we have decided it is time to end the publication of our Print Magazine and E-Newsletter.

Can I grow ivy groundcover under trees?

February 16, 2022   •   1 Comment

English Ivy
English Ivy

We have a beautiful 32-year-old maple tree in our backyard and a city locust tree on the boulevard in the front yard. It is difficult to grow grass under both trees. If we planted ivy as a groundcover, would it hurt the trees if it climbed up them? My neighbor had some voracious vine grow up his mountain ash and the tree died.

The age of your maple tree suggests a large trunk and root flare with heavy shade. Turf grass needs sun and water, both of which the maple tree takes first with its mature canopy and characteristic surface root system. Give up on growing grass under it. Apply two inches of composted mulch between the root flares out to the canopy drip line. Keep the compost and mulch away from the trunk and off the root flares. You can then “pocket plant” shade-tolerant perennials like hosta and liriope, which will grow comfortably in those conditions, offer seasonal bloom, and give you an interesting, low maintenance groundcover.

One can grow grass under a locust although they too are shallow-rooted. If you thin out the canopy to allow more sunlight to reach the ground, a shade turf seed mix can work if the area is properly prepared. However, a boulevard takes heavy abuse from vehicles and weather. You may be better off applying the mulch method to the locust as well. The liriope is both sun- and shade-tolerant and will handle some road salt applied in winter. There are also creeping junipers that hug the ground and give you conifer presence all year. The key is to plant away from the tree trunk.

Any kind of climbing ivy is difficult to control. Their accelerated rise within a tree’s canopy crowds out the tree leaves. The tree loses its food production source that feeds its roots, which in turn feed the branch scaffold. The tree literally starves and dies, as witnessed in your neighbor’s yard. 

RELATED: Groundcover that handles foot traffic

Filed Under: Ask MG Tagged With: groundcover, hosta, ivy, liriope, locust, maple, trees

Why doesn’t our garden have earthworms in the soil?

February 11, 2022   •   Leave a Comment

Our several-year-old vegetable garden is high in organic matter but has no earthworms — none at all. What are possible reasons and potential solutions? If the soil is not healthy for worms, is it lacking something important? Our lawn adjacent to the garden has plenty of worms.

A productive garden thoroughly depletes the organic matter to produce those prize-winning squash and tomatoes. So we correctly add organic matter annually. The problem may lie in the method.

There are also different kinds of earthworms. Some live closer to the surface as evidenced by those living in your lawn. Epigeic species live in or near the surfaceplant litter. They are typically small and are highly adaptable to variable water and temperature conditions associated with lawn culture. Endogeic species are more mobile, making temporary tunnels, and live in the upper soil layers feeding on soil and organic matter. Then there are the deep-burrowing anecic species, which we often call “nightcrawlers.”These guys drag surface litter down into their burrows which can be several feet down below the soil surface.

The nightcrawlers are much more common in the north and east where there are clay and loam soils. Something that gardeners do not realize is that continuous tillage or disturbance of the soil will cause most earthworms to vacate the premises. Remember your lawn soil is rarely disturbed. If you mechanically rototill organic matter into your garden every year or vigorously deep dig your soil before planting, you may be chasing the worms away. They don’t get the chance to do their job. You keep destroying their optimum working conditions.

Examine your garden prep and add compost into the top 6 inches instead of deep tilling. The vegetables will still take all that they need. Cultivate it in by hand rather than mechanical means. Continue to practice good crop rotation.

Related: Janet’s Journal – How to improve your clay soil

Filed Under: Ask MG Tagged With: earthworms, soil, worms

How do I care for my damaged kousa dogwood tree?

January 28, 2022   •   Leave a Comment

I planted a kousa dogwood last summer, and it looked to be doing well, with nice autumn foliage. Last fall it looks as if a fat raccoon has tried to sit in the fork, and two of the largest boughs have been torn off. The damaged dogwood height is about 5 feet, the largest branch left is 3/4-inch diameter, and there is a huge scar where a branch got torn off. What should I do this spring to the wound?

Do not paint or bandage the wound left by the torn branch. This only provides hiding places for insect pests and traps moisture which can lead to mold issues. Trees have an amazing ability to heal over injuries. When the wound occurred, the cambium reacted chemically to seal off that area to prevent moisture loss. Eventually an exterior bark layer will form over that spot, much like a person’s skin heals from a cut.

Make sure the dogwood is sited for optimum light and water preferences. Water the roots deeply when day temperatures are high and rainfall is absent. The tree has endured stress with this injury and used additional resources to repair itself. You can apply a granular tree and shrub fertilizer around the root zone before mulching to help the plant rebuild its energies.

Provide two inches of composted mulch over the root zone, avoiding contact with the tree trunk. Watch the tree’s growth during the season. You may notice stunted leaf and branch development and even lack of bloom buds on the side of the tree with the wound. To prevent inquisitive critters from chewing on the bark, place a narrow cage of wire mesh around the trunk from the ground to about 2 feet up, being careful not to wrap the trunk with wire.

After spring bloom, you may prune the dogwood to re-establish shape and form. In early fall, you can apply another light dose of granular fertilizer per the container label to help the tree’s nutrient storage for winter.

Related: Why are my dogwood blooms are smaller this year?

Elsewhere: Flowering Dogwood Problems

Filed Under: Ask MG Tagged With: damage, damaged, dogwood, kousa, wound

Will adding mulch increase the soil depth of a bed?

January 25, 2022   •   Leave a Comment

If I keep adding mulch to my garden beds, will it not eventually increase the soil depth in that bed? And if it does, what happens to all the surface roots if I remove the mulch (soil)?

Adding about 2 inches of mulch to our garden beds prevents moisture loss, improves the soil condition, and prevents weeds from germinating. Natural wood mulch, composed of fine wood chips, ground up leaves and twigs, encourages worms and microorganisms to break down the material into nutrients which plants can absorb through their roots. This relationship between the soil organisms, decomposing organic material and plants creates a self-sufficient ecosystem if we, as the caregivers, don’t ruin it.

When you clean your garden beds in spring, lightly cultivate the surface material into the soil bed. How much light and water a particular bed gets can speed up or slow down the composting of the mulch. Some beds may need an inch of new mulch each year around mid-June or when temperatures heat up. Other beds may be slower and may only need additional material every other year. Application is not an auto-pilot garden chore.

Do not apply more than what is recommended. More is not better for preventing moisture loss or weeds. Thriving plants have deep roots in the soil rather than roots close to the surface. Overloading on mulch gives the plant a false sense of where the real soil is and can keep the hair-like roots away from microorganism activity. 

Related: How to improve your clay soil

Filed Under: Ask MG Tagged With: adding mulch, decomposition, mulch, wood mulch

Can I use a rusting antique urn for planting?

January 12, 2022   •   Leave a Comment

I have an antique iron urn that is sitting outside and has begun to rust. Is there any danger to plants if I use it for a container/planter? Does it matter if I use annuals or perennials? I am also considering planting a yucca in it; how do you think it would do?

Your container will work well with no adverse reactions to rust by your plants. However you must drill several large holes in the bottom of the container to allow for drainage. To stop the soil from plugging the holes and restricting drainage, put a piece of screen or weed cloth over the holes. You may have a problem with the existing rust on the bottom—if you place your container on concrete or wood, the rust and water that drains out may stain the surface below. Annuals are always a good choice for planters; they do well in the summer and are not a concern when it comes time to put things away for the winter. Perennials (or the yucca) will require protection from the winter elements (such as putting the container in the garage). The same would be true for an evergreen or shrub. Perennials will also require repotting and division due to the restricted environment in the metal urn.

Filed Under: Ask MG Tagged With: Planting, rust, urn

How do I overwinter cannas?

November 1, 2021   •   Leave a Comment

Canna lilies are vigorous growers, spreading and creating large clumps of fleshy rhizomes that can be dug, lifted, and stored over the winter so they may be planted again next season. (Eric Hofley / Michigan Gardener)

I have been unsuccessful in overwintering cannas; they get mushy or just don’t survive. What’s the trick?

Canna lilies are vigorous growers, spreading and creating large clumps of fleshy rhizomes. Whether in the ground or container, their vibrant colors and reblooming ability make them desirable additions to a garden. Keeping our favorites from year to year is also cost effective.

Using a fork, gently lift the shallow-rooted clumps from the soil and lay them out on trays with newspaper. Separate the rhizomes with your hands, being careful but not paranoid if some of them break. Sort and trim out any damaged rhizomes. If they have been in ground or container soil, do not wash them off. Let the soil dry naturally and brush it off later. If they have been in a pond situation, then clean that debris off. Let them dry for a couple days.

Trim the stalks to about two inches above the rhizomes with a clean knife or pruners. Remember all naked rhizomes look identical. To keep varieties identified, put a label with each group and keep them separate. Once dry, wrap them in dry newspaper or paper lunch bags, and place in open cardboard boxes. Shoeboxes are great for large numbers of multiple varieties.

The key is keeping them dry and cool while you wait to replant them. Cool, dry basements and fruit cellars that don’t freeze are ideal. Do not place near furnace vents where heat can make them sprout prematurely. Check once or twice over winter for soft or shriveled rhizomes and discard. If more than a few are rotting, then move them to a drier location.

Related: Planting cannas in containers

Related: Overwintering tender garden plants

Filed Under: Ask MG Tagged With: Canna lilies, cannas, Overwintering

Proper planning ensures reliable spring bulbs

September 2, 2021   •   Leave a Comment

Each year I plan, purchase and plant thousands of bulbs. Here’s what I’ve learned to do in fall to insure the best show of spring bulbs.

In early April, all eyes will be on this blooming cornelian cherry tree (Cornus mas), or gazing at the yard art. Plan the bulb planting scheme in the fall to highlight those attractions.

Think “grocery produce section” when selecting bulbs

When you choose bulbs in person at the local garden center, you have a significant advantage: you have direct control over quality. Make the most of it. Pretend you’re at a grocery store choosing vegetables, because that’s what bulbs are—root crops.

You would think twice about buying a mushy potato, rubbery carrot or shriveled onion. Be just as choosy with bulbs. Select for firmness and even color. Check for soft spots that may be on their way to rotting, and reject bare-root ephemerals like foxtail lily (Eremurus) if they have broken roots. Take the largest of any bunch.

Keep the same mindset if you must store bulbs before planting. If the bulb has a tunic (a papery skin as on a tulip, daffodil, crocus, etc.) or a horny surface (such as snowdrops and spring-blooming anemone), store it cool and dry like you would store onions or garlic. If it does not have a protective covering, like a true lily or a bare foxtail lily root, keep it as you would carrots—cool and humid in a refrigerator crisper drawer or root cellar. If it’s wrapped, make sure that condensation doesn’t collect and puddle inside to incite rot on the surface of the bulb or root.

About price: Bargain basement bulbs are usually disappointing. If you buy the cheapest, you’re almost certain to receive bulbs half the size of premium items. They may be dry and wasted from improper storage. Given years of ideal conditions, such bulbs may produce a decent display. Next spring, however, they’ll present flowers few and small.

Beware of low-priced collections too. Whether of mixed varieties of one species or a “spring collection” of different species, they rarely live up to their promise. The catalog may illustrate a mix of six types of daffodil or tulip yet ship just 5 of the fancier types to each 45 of a pale, small-flowered type. The mixed-species collections often contain only a few of each big, showy species (hyacinths, daffodils, tulips) but many of each minor bulb (squill, winter aconite, glory-of-the-snow, etc.). They sometimes include downright weedy species such as star of Bethlehem (Ornithogalum umbellatum).

Far too often, the tiny, early bulbs are overlooked when we plan and plant in fall. Yet masses of any of this collection can be planted to naturalize most anywhere in a landscape. Flowers, from left: White Puschkinia with its baby blue stripe accompanies early daffodil ‘Jack Snipe,’ fading away as lamium covers that ground. Blue squill (Scilla sibirica) plus the blue and white forms of woodland anemone (Anemone blanda) are great partners with the evergreen perennial lenten rose (Helleborus x orientalis) under a kousa dogwood. Blue ‘Harmony’ and standard purple iris (Iris reticulata) can mix it up with yellow crocus (Crocus chrysanthus) among clumps of blue fescue or perennial fountain grass.

Include early-, mid- and late-blooming types

You can enjoy spring bulb bloom from early March until early June. Most crocuses come early in that line-up, followed by Dutch hyacinth and daffodils in April, and tulips from late April into May. Alliums, foxtail lily and others carry the show into June. Within each group, however, there are early-, mid-, and late-blooming species and varieties. Take the time in fall to plan a mix that will give you spring color every week that’s important to you. (See the sidebar “Parade of bloomin’ bulbs” for a starting line-up.)

Short on space? You can plant two, three or even four kinds of bulbs in one area if you choose for separate seasons and give all players elbow room. For instance, I have planted squill, early species tulip (Tulipa kaufmanniana), checker lily (Fritillaria meleagris), and drumstick allium (Allium sphaerocephalon) in one spot. I excavated that bulb area about 10 inches deep and placed the tulips, then added a few inches of soil and set the checker lilies and drumstick alliums. Finally I added another inch of soil, scattered the squill and covered it all with the rest of the soil.

There’s no right or wrong in bulbs or any other aspect of gardening, just different ways for each gardener and garden. A catalog may recommend 188 Grecian windflowers (Anemone blanda) per square yard, and you certainly can plant that many for immediate impact. Yet you can also place just a few near your favorite garden sculpture and watch them multiply over the years.

Plant them where you’ll see them

Before you plant, stand in the windows you use most in late winter and early spring. Look at your garden from there and from the driveway where you enter and exit. Plant spring bulbs where you will be able to see them from these vantage points or you’re wasting your time and money.

Bulb color goes a long way—if you can see it. So it’s a smart move to plant daffodils where you will see them each day as you leave and come home again. Never forget as you make your choices, however, that most spring bulbs need full sun to bloom well. Note the difference here in the amount of bloom between the daffodils in the wooden barrels and those in the beds. Those in the barrels were sun-grown in pots and moved into the planters for temporary show. Those in the beds have grown there for years, shaded most of each day.

Plant them deep

The rule of thumb for bulb depth is to set a bulb with soil over its nose 2 to 3 times as deep as the bulb is tall. That means to plant a tulip, daffodil, lily or large allium, you need a hole 8 or 9 inches deep. That will accept the three-inch bulb plus at least six inches of soil above it. Most people plant shallow and pay for it in frost damage, toppling flowers and blooms that come one year then never again.

I plant even deeper than recommended. I put large bulbs in holes at least 11 inches deep. If the drainage is good, they don’t mind at all, and need dividing less often. Plus, I won’t harm them as I garden because they’re all below the reach of my nine-inch spade blade.

Doubtful? Experiment with just a few bulbs planted deeper this fall. Note what you planted deep, where, so you can gauge the results next spring. I still do, since I’m not sure I’ve pushed it to the limit, in terms of depth. One fall, after planting a dozen tulips a foot deep, I forgot all about them and later dumped a wheelbarrow of soil there and topped that with a leftover bale of straw. The next spring, the tulips grew from a foot down, through the piled soil, plus 14 inches of baled straw to bloom cheerily above the heap.

That just goes to show that there’s no absolute right or wrong when it comes to using bulbs or any other aspect of gardening. Take that to heart as you plan and plant bulbs this fall. Have fun, and enjoy the surprises spring will bring.


Parade of bloomin’ bulbs

Here’s a list of which bulbs are likely to bloom when, with what. To use it, remember it’s only a guide—winter and spring weather can slow one bulb and speed another—and adjust for length of growing season. It’s geared to use in northern zone 5, where the growing season starts later than it does in a more southern zone 5 but earlier than on the Lake Superior shore zone 5. So change mid-March to early March if you’re in zone 6, or to late February for a zone 7 North Carolina winter home.

Very early (by mid-March): Snowdrops (Galanthus), early crocus (Crocus sieberi, C. minimus, C. tommasinianus), danford and netted iris (Iris danfordiae, I. reticulata).

Early (late March to mid-April): Grecian windflower and wood anemone (Anemone blanda, A. nemerosa), squill (Scilla sibirica), Puschkinia libanotica, Dutch crocus, Dutch hyacinth, early- and mid-season daffodils, firespray- and tarda tulips (Tulipa praestans, T. dasystemon), glory-of-the-snow (Chionodoxa).

Mid-season (late April and early May): Late daffodils, early tulips (Triumph, Foster, multi-flora, and Greigii tulips followed by lily-flowered and fringed types), western trout lily (Erythronium ‘Pagoda’), checker lily (Fritillaria meleagris), summer snowflake (Leucojum‘ Gravetye’), grape hyacinth (Muscari).

Late (mid- to late May): Late and parrot tulips, species tulip (Tulipa wilsoniana), quamash (Camassia), large-flowered alliums, sego lily (Calochortus), perennial glads (Gladiolus byzantinus), bluebells (Hyacinthoides campanulata).

Very late (end of May and into June): Sicilian honey lily (Nectaroscordum siculum), foxtail lily (Eremerus), drumstick and blue allium (Allium sphaerocephalon, A. caeruleum), California hyacinth (Triteleia laxa, Brodiaea).

Article by Janet Macunovich and photos by Steven Nikkila, www.gardenatoz.com.

RELATED: Moving spring flowering bulbs

RELATED: Plant Focus – Crocus

Filed Under: Janet’s Journal Tagged With: bulbs, Janet Macunovich, Janet’s Journal, spring

Cooking with culinary herbs

September 1, 2021   •   Leave a Comment

The culinary herbs have been the seasonings of the human race for centuries. Culinary herbs, along with medicinal plants, were among the first plants to be given space in garden plots. These tasty gems have always been a cook’s companions, and the more one uses them, the more one wants to know—including their history, lore and legends.

Basil, the main ingredient in pesto, is a popular culinary herb.

Basil

An annual, basil is usually associated with tomatoes in salads and vegetable dishes. It pairs well with meat, egg and cheese dishes, and soups and stews. It is the main ingredient in a classic pesto. Lemon basil is good with fish. Basil reminds many people of a mixture of cloves, cinnamon, and anise. It was hung in bunches in stables to repel flies, and girls wore a sprig of basil behind their ear to invite a kiss. Don’t bother to bring in a plant from the garden; it has about a six-month life span and will not live long. Start with a baby plant to grow on your windowsill for winter dishes. If you want to dry it for winter, pick a nice bunch from August to the first frost, and use a rubber band that will hold the bunch as it dries. Hang it upside down in your kitchen or a dry place. If you want to freeze it, process it with olive oil or make it into pesto first.

Thyme holds its fragrance and flavor well when dried.

Thyme

The thymes are important to cooks. Most varieties are perennial in Michigan, but they are little subshrubs that only grow about a foot tall, and they tend to get woody, which some gardeners consider unsightly. Thyme is also pleasant on the windowsill for the winter. It holds its flavor and fragrance well when dried, so you can hang small bunches until they are crispy dry and then strip the leaves into a jar for storage. The creeping varieties can be planted between stepping stones where they tolerate light traffic and give off their lovely fragrances. The creeping thymes are important additions to fairy gardens too, where the wee folk enjoyed the fragrant leaves when they danced. It was also thought that fairies lived in the large patches of wild thyme. Sprigs of the flowering herb were embroidered on scarves and flags of knights believing that it bestowed courage onto them. In the kitchen, it is included in “fine herbs” and “bouquet garni” mixtures and is a great herb for meat, soup, vegetables, and fish.

Parsley

Many people think of parsley as a garnish, but it is a garnish that is worth eating! It is a biennial, but most cooks treat it like an annual and plant it fresh each spring to ensure a supply of tender leaves. It comes in three basic varieties: curly, which is usually seen as the garnish; flat leaf or Italian, which is important in lasagna and spaghetti; and Hamburg or root parsley, which has a flat leaf and develops a large turnip-type root used in soup stocks and more. It grows easily on the windowsill to have over the winter, and is good dried as well. It is now recognized as being very nutritious. It was originally used as a garnish so that people would eat it after the meal to freshen their breath and absorb odors. Parsley sprigs are highly nutritive, rivaling oranges for vitamin content.

Be careful with sage—too much can make a dish bitter and distasteful.

Sage

Sage is an herb that makes cooks understand the meaning of the old saying, “You should always leave the dinner wondering which herb made the food taste so wonderful.” Too much sage and it will make the dish bitter and distasteful, but the right amount gives a warm taste that is irreplaceable. It is used in poultry seasonings, cornbread and biscuits. It was used in meat sauces to help preserve the meat, and to cover the taste of meat already going bad in the olden days, such as sausage, and to help stop the growth of bacteria in the meat. An ancient Roman proverb asked, “Why should a man die whilst sage grows in his garden?” It is still an ingredient in herbal teas to soothe and relax. Sage flowers attract butterflies and hummingbirds to your garden, and the silver leaves are popular with landscapers and flower arrangers.

Rosemary

A flavoring that is well-known by cooks, rosemary was used in historic times as a wreath for the head to strengthen the memory. Students in many countries still use a sprig of it to help them concentrate. It is also the herb of remembrance and fidelity, and so it is included in both wedding bouquets and funeral arrangements. It was popular as a Christmas herb and in incense mixtures. It was an important ingredient in many magical spells. Rosemary will not winter outdoors in Michigan. Note that it does not go dormant, so it must be watered regularly and well during the winter months on the windowsill. It must also have good drainage so that the roots do not stand in water. A plastic or glazed pot is best so that the tiny rootlets do not dry out between waterings. Use it gently in the kitchen, where it adds character and zest to stew, soup, vegetables and new potatoes. 

Mint

A plant that we like to call “easy to grow,” mint is a Michigan native, and is grown commercially in the southwest part of the state. A cook can control this important kitchen herb in the garden by growing it in a pot sunk into the ground. It flavors many drinks, candy, gum, sauces, jellies, meat and fruit salads. It is used with green peas as well as potatoes, carrots, and cabbage. It repels mice, and pennyroyal mint is used to fight fleas. It was for these qualities that it was used as a strewing herb in European castles. It is believed to make the heart merry and to encourage laughter, and is a welcome addition to wedding bouquets.

Knowing all of these things about the culinary herbs makes cooking with them fun and more enjoyable, and can even encourage non-cooks into the kitchen to help!

Jean and Roxanne Riggs operated Sunshine Farm and Garden in Oakland County, MI.

RELATED: Mint Charlatans – Discover herbs that smell and taste like mint without its bad habits

MSU Extension: Growing culinary herbs indoors

Filed Under: Thyme for Herbs Tagged With: basil, culinary herbs, mint, rosemary, sage, thyme, thyme for herbs

Efforts underway to help restore rare forested wetland on Belle Isle

August 4, 2021   •   Leave a Comment

The Belle Isle wetland is one of the largest wet-mesic flatwoods in existence and one of only six high-quality occurrences left in Michigan.

A unique but damaged ecosystem on the eastern side of Belle Isle Park is getting some much-needed attention. Restoration specialists with the Michigan Department of Natural Resources are working to bring back 200 acres of globally rare, forested wetland at the 2.5-mile-long island park in the Detroit River. It’s one of the largest wet-mesic flatwoods in existence and one of only six high-quality occurrences left in Michigan, providing habitat for a variety of rare plants, wildlife species and migrating songbirds. Wet-mesic flatwoods (forested wetlands) once were prominent along the Detroit River. Efforts to restore natural water flow, retain surface water and enhance ecological integrity began in spring 2021 and will help reverse damage that has occurred over the past two centuries.

Detailed information can be found here (120MB PDF Download).

Filed Under: Clippings Tagged With: Belle Isle, DNR, restoration, wetland

Butterfly weed and other milkweeds

July 7, 2021   •   Leave a Comment

A. tuberosa (Photo: Steven Still)

by George Papadelis

It turns out that one of Michigan’s most common roadside “weeds” is actually an outstanding perennial for our Michigan gardens. The brilliant orange flowers of butterfly weed (Asclepias tuberosa) can be seen blooming profusely in June and July in some of the most unfriendly sites one can imagine. Open meadows, steep slopes, and grassy fields can provide its only two cultural requirements: full sun and dry, well-drained soil.

Butterfly weed was given its common name for appropriate reasons. When in bloom, its flowers seem to attract butterflies from miles away. Monarchs are perhaps the best-known visitors to members of the milkweed family (to which butterfly weed belongs), but many other species dine on their nectar as well. Painted ladies, swallowtails, and others find it irresistible. All milkweeds are suitable lures for butterflies, so select the variety that best suits your tastes.

Butterfly weed, with its flat clusters of small orange flowers, is actually one of the few perennials available in orange. Its perennial companions in this narrow color range include poppies, red hot poker, daylilies, lilies, and crocosmia. Butterfly weed is also available in some different hues. The variety ‘Gay Butterflies’ offers a mixture that includes orange, yellow, and red. An all-yellow variety exists (‘Hello Yellow’), but is often difficult to find.

A. tuberosa ‘Gay Butterflies’ (Photo: Park Seed Company)

More milkweeds

Butterfly weed has another North American relative with the less flattering common name of swamp milkweed (Asclepias incarnata). The common name comes from the milky sap produced from broken stems or leaves. Swamp milkweed varieties offer flowers similar to butterfly weed, but in two different colors. One called ‘Cinderella’ produces larger, rosy-pink blossoms on more compact flower heads. ‘Ice Ballet’ yields all white flowers that create the perfect backdrop for brightly-colored butterfly visitors. Both will grow about 3 to 4 feet tall.

Tropical milkweeed (Asclepias curassavica) is another popular species of asclepias. This annual form can begin blooming as early as May when cultivated in greenhouse conditions. It produces extra vibrant orange and red bicolor blooms from spring until fall. Besides a sure death every fall, it offers everything available from the perennial forms, but boasts a longer bloom time. Like its longer-lived counterpart, this annual can also have a place in the perennial border.

A. incarnata ‘Ice Ballet’ (Park Seed Company)
A. incarnata ‘Cinderella’ (Park Seed Company)

How to grow butterfly weed

Butterfly weed is difficult to propagate. Seeds are tough to germinate and it also has a taproot that makes it almost impossible to divide. Even transplanting can be problematic. Garden centers are the most reliable source to obtain young starter plants. Once established in well-drained soil, butterfly weed can flourish for several years. Competition from grass and weeds is rarely a factor, but tree roots may pose a problem. Heavy, moist soil (which often occurs in southeastern Michigan’s clay) must be amended with coarse sand, compost, and/or pine bark to improve drainage. Otherwise, good garden soil is all that’s required for this two foot tall, native perennial to produce its flowers. In more harsh environments, evergreen boughs placed directly on the plants for winter protection would certainly be worthwhile. Be patient in the spring, since the leaves of butterfly weed, like several other perennials, are very late to emerge. Gardeners often mistake plants as dead and then discard them before new growth is able to develop.

Besides attracting butterflies and adding some color to your borders, all varieties make excellent cut flowers. Blooms allowed to remain on the plant give way to narrow seedpods, which provide an additional dimension to the plant. These can be harvested before they split open and dried as ornamental seedpods, adding a unique element to any flower arrangement.

Butterfly weed is a Michigan native that is both versatile and rewarding for the true Michigan gardener. Whether butterfly weed is in your yard, in a vase, or on the menu for a passing butterfly, it is one weed you’ll never want to pull out.

A. curassavica ‘Red Butterfly’ (Photo: Johnnyʼs Selected Seeds)

Butterfly weed

Botanical name: Asclepias tuberosa (as-KLEE-pee-as)
Plant type: Perennial
Plant size: 2-3 feet tall; 2 feet wide
Hardiness: Zone 4
Flower color: Orange, orange/yellow/red, pink, white
Flower size: 1/4 inch wide, on clusters
Bloom period: Midsummer
Leaf color: Green
Leaf size: 4-6 inches long, lance-shaped
Light: Full sun
Soil: Dry, well-drained for butterfly weed (A. tuberosa). As its common name indicates, swamp milkweed (A. incarnata) prefers more moisture.
Uses: Perennial garden, meadow, roadside, cut and dried flower arrangements.
Remarks: Native to Michigan. Attracts butterflies. Very slow to emerge in spring, so be careful to allow new growth to appear. Has a taproot, which makes division difficult.

George Papadelis is the owner of Telly’s Greenhouse in Troy and Shelby Township, MI.

Related: How to transplant butterfly bush

Filed Under: Plant Focus Tagged With: Asclepias tuberosa, Butterfly bush, perennial

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