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Proper planning ensures reliable spring bulbs

September 2, 2021 • Leave a Comment

Each year I plan, purchase and plant thousands of bulbs. Here’s what I’ve learned to do in fall to insure the best show of spring bulbs.

**In early April, all eyes will be on this blooming cornelian cherry tree (*Cornus mas*), or gazing at the yard art. Plan the bulb planting scheme in the fall to highlight those attractions.**

Think “grocery produce section” when selecting bulbs

When you choose bulbs in person at the local garden center, you have a significant advantage: you have direct control over quality. Make the most of it. Pretend you’re at a grocery store choosing vegetables, because that’s what bulbs are—root crops.

You would think twice about buying a mushy potato, rubbery carrot or shriveled onion. Be just as choosy with bulbs. Select for firmness and even color. Check for soft spots that may be on their way to rotting, and reject bare-root ephemerals like foxtail lily (Eremurus) if they have broken roots. Take the largest of any bunch.

Keep the same mindset if you must store bulbs before planting. If the bulb has a tunic (a papery skin as on a tulip, daffodil, crocus, etc.) or a horny surface (such as snowdrops and spring-blooming anemone), store it cool and dry like you would store onions or garlic. If it does not have a protective covering, like a true lily or a bare foxtail lily root, keep it as you would carrots—cool and humid in a refrigerator crisper drawer or root cellar. If it’s wrapped, make sure that condensation doesn’t collect and puddle inside to incite rot on the surface of the bulb or root.

About price: Bargain basement bulbs are usually disappointing. If you buy the cheapest, you’re almost certain to receive bulbs half the size of premium items. They may be dry and wasted from improper storage. Given years of ideal conditions, such bulbs may produce a decent display. Next spring, however, they’ll present flowers few and small.

Beware of low-priced collections too. Whether of mixed varieties of one species or a “spring collection” of different species, they rarely live up to their promise. The catalog may illustrate a mix of six types of daffodil or tulip yet ship just 5 of the fancier types to each 45 of a pale, small-flowered type. The mixed-species collections often contain only a few of each big, showy species (hyacinths, daffodils, tulips) but many of each minor bulb (squill, winter aconite, glory-of-the-snow, etc.). They sometimes include downright weedy species such as star of Bethlehem (Ornithogalum umbellatum).

Far too often, the tiny, early bulbs are overlooked when we plan and plant in fall. Yet masses of any of this collection can be planted to naturalize most anywhere in a landscape. Flowers, from left: White *Puschkinia* with its baby blue stripe accompanies early daffodil ‘Jack Snipe,’ fading away as lamium covers that ground. Blue squill (*Scilla sibirica*) plus the blue and white forms of woodland anemone (*Anemone blanda*) are great partners with the evergreen perennial lenten rose (*Helleborus* x orientalis) under a kousa dogwood. Blue ‘Harmony’ and standard purple iris (*Iris reticulata*) can mix it up with yellow crocus (*Crocus chrysanthus*) among clumps of blue fescue or perennial fountain grass.

Include early-, mid- and late-blooming types

You can enjoy spring bulb bloom from early March until early June. Most crocuses come early in that line-up, followed by Dutch hyacinth and daffodils in April, and tulips from late April into May. Alliums, foxtail lily and others carry the show into June. Within each group, however, there are early-, mid-, and late-blooming species and varieties. Take the time in fall to plan a mix that will give you spring color every week that’s important to you. (See the sidebar “Parade of bloomin’ bulbs” for a starting line-up.)

Short on space? You can plant two, three or even four kinds of bulbs in one area if you choose for separate seasons and give all players elbow room. For instance, I have planted squill, early species tulip (Tulipa kaufmanniana), checker lily (Fritillaria meleagris), and drumstick allium (Allium sphaerocephalon) in one spot. I excavated that bulb area about 10 inches deep and placed the tulips, then added a few inches of soil and set the checker lilies and drumstick alliums. Finally I added another inch of soil, scattered the squill and covered it all with the rest of the soil.

There’s no right or wrong in bulbs or any other aspect of gardening, just different ways for each gardener and garden. A catalog may recommend 188 Grecian windflowers (*Anemone blanda*) per square yard, and you certainly can plant that many for immediate impact. Yet you can also place just a few near your favorite garden sculpture and watch them multiply over the years.

Plant them where you’ll see them

Before you plant, stand in the windows you use most in late winter and early spring. Look at your garden from there and from the driveway where you enter and exit. Plant spring bulbs where you will be able to see them from these vantage points or you’re wasting your time and money.

Bulb color goes a long way—if you can see it. So it’s a smart move to plant daffodils where you will see them each day as you leave and come home again. Never forget as you make your choices, however, that most spring bulbs need full sun to bloom well. Note the difference here in the amount of bloom between the daffodils in the wooden barrels and those in the beds. Those in the barrels were sun-grown in pots and moved into the planters for temporary show. Those in the beds have grown there for years, shaded most of each day.

Plant them deep

The rule of thumb for bulb depth is to set a bulb with soil over its nose 2 to 3 times as deep as the bulb is tall. That means to plant a tulip, daffodil, lily or large allium, you need a hole 8 or 9 inches deep. That will accept the three-inch bulb plus at least six inches of soil above it. Most people plant shallow and pay for it in frost damage, toppling flowers and blooms that come one year then never again.

I plant even deeper than recommended. I put large bulbs in holes at least 11 inches deep. If the drainage is good, they don’t mind at all, and need dividing less often. Plus, I won’t harm them as I garden because they’re all below the reach of my nine-inch spade blade.

Doubtful? Experiment with just a few bulbs planted deeper this fall. Note what you planted deep, where, so you can gauge the results next spring. I still do, since I’m not sure I’ve pushed it to the limit, in terms of depth. One fall, after planting a dozen tulips a foot deep, I forgot all about them and later dumped a wheelbarrow of soil there and topped that with a leftover bale of straw. The next spring, the tulips grew from a foot down, through the piled soil, plus 14 inches of baled straw to bloom cheerily above the heap.

That just goes to show that there’s no absolute right or wrong when it comes to using bulbs or any other aspect of gardening. Take that to heart as you plan and plant bulbs this fall. Have fun, and enjoy the surprises spring will bring.

Parade of bloomin’ bulbs

Here’s a list of which bulbs are likely to bloom when, with what. To use it, remember it’s only a guide—winter and spring weather can slow one bulb and speed another—and adjust for length of growing season. It’s geared to use in northern zone 5, where the growing season starts later than it does in a more southern zone 5 but earlier than on the Lake Superior shore zone 5. So change mid-March to early March if you’re in zone 6, or to late February for a zone 7 North Carolina winter home.

Very early (by mid-March): Snowdrops (Galanthus), early crocus (Crocus sieberi, C. minimus, C. tommasinianus), danford and netted iris (Iris danfordiae, I. reticulata).

Early (late March to mid-April): Grecian windflower and wood anemone (Anemone blanda, A. nemerosa), squill (Scilla sibirica), Puschkinia libanotica, Dutch crocus, Dutch hyacinth, early- and mid-season daffodils, firespray- and tarda tulips (Tulipa praestans, T. dasystemon), glory-of-the-snow (Chionodoxa).

Mid-season (late April and early May): Late daffodils, early tulips (Triumph, Foster, multi-flora, and Greigii tulips followed by lily-flowered and fringed types), western trout lily (Erythronium ‘Pagoda’), checker lily (Fritillaria meleagris), summer snowflake (Leucojum‘ Gravetye’), grape hyacinth (Muscari).

Late (mid- to late May): Late and parrot tulips, species tulip (Tulipa wilsoniana), quamash (Camassia), large-flowered alliums, sego lily (Calochortus), perennial glads (Gladiolus byzantinus), bluebells (Hyacinthoides campanulata).

Very late (end of May and into June): Sicilian honey lily (Nectaroscordum siculum), foxtail lily (Eremerus), drumstick and blue allium (Allium sphaerocephalon, A. caeruleum), California hyacinth (Triteleia laxa, Brodiaea).

Article by Janet Macunovich and photos by Steven Nikkila, www.gardenatoz.com.

RELATED: Moving spring flowering bulbs

RELATED: Plant Focus – Crocus

Plant Focus: Glory of the snow

March 5, 2019 • Leave a Comment

Chionodoxa ‘Pink Giant’ (Photo: Wayside Gardens) — *Chionodoxa* ‘Pink Giant’ (Photo: Wayside Gardens)

By George Papadelis

As spring approaches, gardeners seek the familiar signs of yet another growing season. Even before trees produce their leaves and the spring equinox arrives, the garden can be alive with color from early blooming bulbs. In February, some warming can bring up an occasional flower or two, but by March, color is almost guaranteed through the planting of crocus, snowdrops, or this month’s featured plant, glory of the snow (Chionodoxa).

Chionodoxa luciliae (Photo: Netherlands Flower Bulb Info. Center) — *Chionodoxa luciliae* (Photo: Netherlands Flower Bulb Info. Center)

By late March (sometimes early April), glory of the snow produces 6 to 10 one-inch wide single flowers that last 3 to 4 weeks. Besides their vibrant color, these starry flowers are unique in that each blossom has a distinct white center. The species Chionodoxa forbesii (formerly C. luciliae) has glowing blue flowers, while the variety ‘Pink Giant’ has rosy-pink blooms. Both grow 6 to 10 inches tall. Since the flowers are small, a planting of 20 to 50 bulbs would provide the best show. This is also economically practical since the bulbs are usually inexpensive.

*Chionodoxa gigantea* (Photo: Netherlands Flower Bulb Info. Center)

Glory of the snow is very easy to grow and amongst the hardiest of all bulbs. Only well-drained soil and some sun are required for good performance. Bulbs should be planted with bulb fertilizer in the fall about 3 inches deep and 3 to 4 inches apart. Glory of the snow self-sows and divides itself very freely to form self-sustaining clumps that may last effortlessly for years. However, best results occur if the younger bulbs or “offsets” are dug up in May and replanted with fresh soil, fertilizer, and adequate space.

The only pest problem may be a hungry squirrel looking for a freshly planted snack. If this is a threat in your garden, some chicken wire buried above the bulbs usually does the trick.

Plant glory of the snow in clumps around trees, in the rock garden, or even in your lawn. It works wonderfully alone or in combination with other spring-blooming bulbs. Later-blooming bulbs such as tulips can also be placed in the same planting hole since they require deeper planting depths of 6 to 10 inches. Glory of the snow thrives in woodland situations if tree leaves are shredded, mulched, or raked off to assist them in spring emergence.

This tiny spring treasure is a must for any garden because of its versatility, performance, and durability. Try it almost anywhere! Just a few minutes of digging in the fall will allow glory of the snow to grace you with its presence for many years to come.

Glory of the snow (Chionodoxa)

Pronunciation: ky-on-oh-DOK-suh

Plant Type: Bulb

Plant Size: 5-10 inches tall

Flower Color: Rich blue with white centers (most common); also pink, white

Flower Size: 1 inch wide

Bloom Period: Late March – Early April

Leaves: Narrow, upright sprays

Light: Sun-light shade

Soil: Well-drained

Hardiness: Zone 3

Uses: Border, woodland areas, rock garden, nauralizer, lawn

Remarks: Plant in the fall, 3-4 inches deep

Plant Focus: Colchicum and Fall Crocus

August 31, 2018 • Leave a Comment

colchicum-hill — Fall-blooming crocus or colchicum bulbs are durable, long-lived, low maintenance wonders.

Gardeners looking to extend their garden’s blooming season far into the fall have a limited palette from which to choose. Fall pansies continue to grow in popularity and usually provide color until a hard freeze between Thanksgiving and Christmas. In a protected area these will often return the following spring and bloom until the heat of the summer knocks them out. For reliable October perennials, fall-blooming crocus or colchicum will do the trick. They come in a variety of colors ranging from rose, pink, violet, and white. Both produce chalice-shaped blossoms that poke through fallen leaves when you least expect them.

There are actually two types of these fall bloomers. It is very easy to confuse the autumn-flowering Crocus or “fall crocus” (a member of the iris family) with the Colchicum or “autumn crocus” (a member of the lily family) because of similarly shaped and colored flowers. Some differences, however, do exist.

Colchicum usually have layered blossoms on taller plants that flower a little later than autumn-flowering crocus. The other major difference is the price: fall-blooming crocus is much less expensive than colchicum.

Both types will produce green foliage in the spring that turns yellow by June. In fall, blooms appear without foliage, thus producing the nickname “naked boys” for colchicum. Crocus require a planting depth of 3 to 4 inches while colchicum prefer a 4 to 6 inch planting depth. Both prefer well-drained soil amended with bulb fertilizer, and both will tolerate full sun to partial shade. Both are reliable as naturalizers, which means they will return yearly without any fuss. Use groundcovers such as ivy, pachysandra, myrtle, or even your existing lawn to camouflage the spring foliage. This may also protect the bulb from getting damaged when, inevitably, its location is forgotten during the summer. Several colchicum varieties are readily available and will bloom this fall whether you plant them outside or not. These corms will even flower on a table without water or soil, and will survive as long as they are planted outside shortly thereafter.

All colchicum are poisonous, so squirrels are not likely to present a problem. Colchicum also makes an interesting and attractive cut flower because it doesn’t require water and stays fresh for days. The hybrid variety ‘Waterlily’ is 8 to 12 inches tall and has large, fully double, pink blooms in early to mid October. ‘Lilac Wonder’ has thinner petals and single pink blooms in early October. Other varieties exist but expect to pay more for rare ones such as the double white version.

Fall crocus (Crocus speciosus) are far more economical and therefore are perfect for mass plantings. The lavender-blue flowers open in the sun and close at night or during inclement weather. Although squirrels like these corms, other food is readily available in the fall during planting time. Once established, fall crocus divide into “cormlets” so easily that it would be almost impossible for animals to get every last one.

These 5- to 6-inch tall beauties are snow tolerant and naturalize exceptionally well. In addition to Crocus speciosus, with a little extra winter protection you can also try saffron crocus (Crocus sativus), from which the highly sought after saffron is harvested.

Use fall-blooming crocus or colchicum bulbs in perennial beds, rock gardens, or tucked beneath deciduous trees or shrubs. They are durable, long-lived, low maintenance wonders and a perfect way to end the garden’s flowering season.

George Papadelis is the owner of Telly’s Greenhouse in Troy and Shelby Township, MI.

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