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PLEASE NOTE: In the autumn of 1995, we hatched the idea for a free, local gardening publication. The following spring, we published the first issue of Michigan Gardener magazine. Advertisers, readers, and distribution sites embraced our vision. Thus began an exciting journey of helping our local gardening community grow and prosper.
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Archive for the soil tag

How to select the right potting soil

May 2, 2023   •   Leave a Comment

When it comes to choosing potting mixes, there are two basic types: soil-based and soilless mixes.
When it comes to choosing potting mixes, there are two basic types: soil-based and soilless mixes.

by Nancy Szerlag

When gardening in containers, just like gardening in the ground, success often depends on the soil. In order for plants to flourish, they must have a healthy root system. That’s why a good quality potting mix makes such a big difference on a plant’s ability to flower and thrive.

The soil in containers is watered far more frequently than garden soil. This continual bombardment of water droplets beats the potting soil down and compacts it, squashing all the little air pockets that allow oxygen to move through the soil. And roots need oxygen for healthy growth. In the garden, earthworms and soil dwellers are constantly tunneling about, creating new air spaces, but they are not present in containers. Also, the walls of the containers prevent outside air from circulating through the soil.

Soil vs. soilless mixes

When it comes to choosing potting mixes, there are two basic types: soil-based and soilless mixes.

The main ingredient usually found in soil-based potting mixes is reed sedge, also called Michigan peat. These products, the remains of reeds, sedges, grasses and other marsh plants, have been broken down to the point they look like dark brown or black, silt-like dirt. When added to a container, the fine particles, almost powder-like in nature, quickly settle and compact, leaving little or no space for air.

While reed sedge may look nutrient rich, it’s actually very lean. Reed sedge also has a very low moisture-holding capacity. However, when wet, because of its density, it becomes sodden and heavy. In spite of its drawbacks, a lot of folks use reed sedge-based potting mixes because they are, pardon the pun, dirt cheap.

Soilless potting mixes made of Canadian sphagnum peat moss, commonly called peat moss, cost quite a bit more than soil-based mixes, but in the long run they are well worth the expense. Canadian sphagnum peat moss is an all-organic, disease-free material that’s prized for its ability to grow great plants. A quality peat moss-based soilless potting mix gives gardeners the same medium that professionals have enjoyed for decades. Sphagnum peat moss has many more times the air space capacity than reed sedge. Plus, it has the capacity to hold nutrients as well as moisture.

Soilless mixes are also lighter; about one half the weight of a soil-based mix when soaked with water. They are also generally free from pests and diseases that may be harbored by ordinary garden soil or soil-based potting mixes.

Additional potting soil ingredients

Good quality potting soils also contain other ingredients such as vermiculite and perlite to further increase moisture retention, aeration and drainage. Composted forest products, such as fir bark, may also be added to increase friability and further improve drainage.

Once it dries out, sphagnum peat moss can be difficult to rewet, so many potting mixes also contain wetting agents. Not to be confused with moisture-holding polymers, these wetting agents, also called surfactants, are added to help the potting mix absorb water more readily.

Water-retaining polymers look like tiny bits of clear Jell-O when they are wet, and may be added to a potting soil to help increase its ability to retain water even further. This fascinating material, in a crystal-like form when dry, will hold up to 40 times its weight in water. Potting soils with moisture-retaining polymers are good to use in hanging planters and other sun-drenched pots that dry out quickly in the heat of summer.

Many potting soils also contain a slow-release fertilizer, which takes the hassle out of having to worry about feeding the plants. It should be noted however, that the fertilizer will release when the potting soil gets wet, so avoid broken bags and store the unused portion in a protected area where it will be kept dry.


Helpful planting hint

When planting containers, it’s always best to moisten the potting soil before planting. A mix of 2 to 3 parts potting soil to one part water will give you a moderately moist consistency that is easy to work with. To make sure the water absorbs evenly, mix up a batch several hours before planting. A five-gallon bucket with a lid or a large storage tote works well for both mixing and storing.


Specialty potting soils are formulated specifically for plants with special requirements, such as orchids, cacti and African violets. There are also special blends of container soil for aquatic plants that contain specially-processed clay that adds needed weight, but without the perlite or other products that float and foul pond water.

When shopping for potting soils it’s important to read the labels. There are few restrictions on the labeling of potting soils, so words like “professional” in a name or description means little. However, the makers of good quality potting soils do list their contents and the Federal Trade Commission regulates that the bag must contain a minimum of 75 percent peat moss to warrant the use of the term “peat moss” on the bag. Many companies also include detailed instructions on how to use their products as well as hints for successful planting.

Many independent garden centers have sample containers of various soil products for you to look at. It’s worth taking the time to grab a handful to get a feel of the various potting soils before you make a purchase.

If you use a lot of potting soil, for economy sake consider buying a commercial product that is typically packaged in larger bags. Nurseries that grow their own plants usually have these larger sizes on hand. They won’t contain the slow-release fertilizers and water-retaining polymers, but those products are also available in larger sizes, so you can mix up your own specialty potting soil and save some bucks.

Nancy Szerlag is a Master Gardener and Master Composter.

Related: Why doesn’t our garden have earthworms in the soil?

Elsewhere: Potting soils and seed-starting mixes for your garden

Filed Under: Tools and Techniques Tagged With: container gardening, potting soil, soil, soilless mixes

Why doesn’t our garden have earthworms in the soil?

February 11, 2022   •   Leave a Comment

Our several-year-old vegetable garden is high in organic matter but has no earthworms — none at all. What are possible reasons and potential solutions? If the soil is not healthy for worms, is it lacking something important? Our lawn adjacent to the garden has plenty of worms.

A productive garden thoroughly depletes the organic matter to produce those prize-winning squash and tomatoes. So we correctly add organic matter annually. The problem may lie in the method.

There are also different kinds of earthworms. Some live closer to the surface as evidenced by those living in your lawn. Epigeic species live in or near the surfaceplant litter. They are typically small and are highly adaptable to variable water and temperature conditions associated with lawn culture. Endogeic species are more mobile, making temporary tunnels, and live in the upper soil layers feeding on soil and organic matter. Then there are the deep-burrowing anecic species, which we often call “nightcrawlers.”These guys drag surface litter down into their burrows which can be several feet down below the soil surface.

The nightcrawlers are much more common in the north and east where there are clay and loam soils. Something that gardeners do not realize is that continuous tillage or disturbance of the soil will cause most earthworms to vacate the premises. Remember your lawn soil is rarely disturbed. If you mechanically rototill organic matter into your garden every year or vigorously deep dig your soil before planting, you may be chasing the worms away. They don’t get the chance to do their job. You keep destroying their optimum working conditions.

Examine your garden prep and add compost into the top 6 inches instead of deep tilling. The vegetables will still take all that they need. Cultivate it in by hand rather than mechanical means. Continue to practice good crop rotation.

Related: Janet’s Journal – How to improve your clay soil

Filed Under: Ask MG Tagged With: earthworms, soil, worms

Janet’s Journal: When Tolerance is Not a Virtue

July 3, 2018   •   3 Comments

Rather than placing plants where they only “tolerate” a space, plant them where they are actually happy

For the best garden, avoid the word “tolerate” as you select plants. Use what will thrive on a site, not just survive. Barberry, German statice, lavender, dianthus and iris can all thrive in the dry soil.
For the best garden, avoid the word “tolerate” as you select plants. Use what will thrive on a site, not just survive. Barberry, German statice, lavender, dianthus and iris can all thrive in the dry soil.

Why do we deliberately plant species that only “tolerate” our gardens? Perhaps it’s because “shade tolerance,” “heat tolerant,” “tolerant of a wide range of conditions” and similar phrases are basic to horticulture. It’s so common in books that we skip right over this important word as we read.

Maybe we just don’t recognize body language in plants as well as we do in people. A plant’s message may reach us on a subconscious level and trigger vague disquiet, but for most it doesn’t process beyond that point.

Are you in tune, or are you living in a garden full of sullen, sniveling, grumbling malcontents? Here’s a primer, a listing of some of the signals I’ve learned to read as “I’d rather not be here but if you insist I’ll stay and make us both miserable.”

Rodger’s flower (Rodgersia sambucifolia) is far less tolerant of drought than lamium, and unable to stand the full sun, crying out with scorched leaves.
Rodger’s flower (Rodgersia sambucifolia) is far less tolerant of drought than lamium, and unable to stand the full sun, crying out with scorched leaves.

There may be fine line divisions in your garden between tolerable an intolerable sites. Sweet Solomon’s seal (Polygonatum odoratum ‘Variegatum’) is a stalwart performer here where the lilac shades it all afternoon, yet would fall prey to pests and disease in the full sun and heat just a few feet to the left.
There may be fine line divisions in your garden between tolerable an intolerable sites. Sweet Solomon’s seal (Polygonatum odoratum ‘Variegatum’) is a stalwart performer here where the lilac shades it all afternoon, yet would fall prey to pests and disease in the full sun and heat just a few feet to the left.

Astilbe is a tough plant all around, so long as it doesn’t have to go dry. Given constantly moist soil, it can put on a show even while putting up with singed leaves in full sun.
Astilbe is a tough plant all around, so long as it doesn’t have to go dry. Given constantly moist soil, it can put on a show even while putting up with singed leaves in full sun.

Clematis suffers from its reputation as “tolerant of shade.” Here, it’s tolerating shade as it always has, by escaping over the fence to bloom in the sun, in the yard outside the gardener’s view!
Clematis suffers from its reputation as “tolerant of shade.” Here, it’s tolerating shade as it always has, by escaping over the fence to bloom in the sun, in the yard outside the gardener’s view!

Subsisting in Shade

A key to recognizing tolerance is knowing what a plant could look like. Until you see a member of a species being all it can be, you may not register your flora’s resentment of the conditions you force it to endure. You may never hear the mumbled curses shared between pallid plants who view you as the stingy human who’s consigned them to, in this first case, chronic light deficiency.

Perhaps the plant that opens your eyes is one of your own that escaped by seed or runner into a brighter place, to stun you with its transformation. Although I’ve also seen this happen where the gardener does not even recognize the original and its progeny as the same species. Maybe your enlightenment comes when you see a division of your plant in better circumstances, strutting its stuff in someone else’s sun garden. The differences, minor or major, and the chance for comparison might escape you except the resident gardener is there, thanking you for the gift of (name of plant here) and bragging on its performance.

What a shade-tolerant plant does is become thin, developing more stem and fewer leaves. The stalks may be weak so the plant dips and sags. Its yearning for sun may make it lean or even crawl toward the light on prostrate stems. The foliage lacks substance and is paler than it should be. In the case of variegated foliage that longs for the sun, golds may become dull green, maroons a muddy pink, and gray loses its silvering fuzz to reveal ordinary green.

Flowers, too, are paler. Worse, they’re fewer in number despite all you spend on “bloom builder” fertilizers.

Some shade tolerant species whose discontent becomes obvious in midsummer:

Daylilies – come on, count the flowers per stem and then try to tell yourself it’s happy compared to sun-grown siblings!

Purple coneflower – snip a flower from your shade-grown echinacea and put it in a vase with one cut from the sun garden.

Balloon flower – this sturdy creature shouldn’t require staking but it will fall when it’s starving for light.

Sullen in the Sun

Their foliage wilts on hot days and has a hang-dog droop even when it’s only pleasantly warm—these plants are begging you for a place with at least midday shade. A leaf’s edges may be scorched, while the blade is pale and chlorotic, its color-producing chemicals destroyed by light as surely as sun fades a drapery. Singed, washed out foliage may be concentrated at the top of the plant or on its sunniest side, that outer rank of leaves taking the brunt of the abuse. Flowers may be abundant but short-lived. The whole plant may opt for a shorter season, in the case of woodland and forest-edge species able to escape into dormancy.

Hostas are troopers, making only the smallest unhappy noises in the sun. Not so, flowering dogwoods and rodgersias, who moan and wail for cool shadow. Lucky bleeding heart and mayapple can fold their foliage early and depart the scene by midsummer.

Whining in the Wind

Holding shredded, tattered flower petals or snapped flower stalks out for you to see, your “wind tolerant” plants can’t believe you fail to notice their plight. Some are less stoic, simply refusing to flower or, if woody, holding back growth on their exposed faces until the windward side is all stunted, twiggy limbs. Other shrubs and trees thrust dead branches in your face, hoping you’ll understand that constant rocking in the wind is costing them roots.

A more subtle sign is foliage that’s been rattled and rubbed against itself until it’s bruised, creased, abraded and wide open to every leaf spot fungus that ever took a liking to that kind of plant.

Serviceberry is wind tolerant, but don’t ask it to endure too much if you expect to enjoy its fragrance or cut a pristine flowering stem for a vase. Poplars stand up to any gale but try not to look at their spotted leaves and cankered twigs, and don’t hold it against them when those twigs grow into easily broken limbs. Great Plains gardeners know lilacs as dependable windbreaks, but don’t send a photo of your symmetrical shrub to your gardening cousin in Kansas, if you want him to remain deaf to his deformed lilac’s moans. And certainly don’t cut a bunch of big, rich-colored blooms from your shrub and drive them out to him, unless you want him to learn to cry over his plant’s paltry showing.

Hostile in the Heat

Plants that don’t love heat, only tolerate it, cry out in singed spots, especially on wide, horizontally oriented leaves. They wilt on the worst days and even on the best days curl their foliage under like so many clenched fists. With every stab from their ever-present mites, they hurl silent curses at the gardener. If all else fails, the herbaceous ones will develop crown rot, tender young buds drying and dying as they emerge, and the plant will bow out.

Many people ask their plants to tolerate heat without knowing it. Away at the office, you may not notice the midday sun or superheated 3 p.m. air that oppresses your Hydrangea, pounds your Pulmonaria, and cooks your Caladium.

Dreadful in Dry Places

Brief bloom, slow growth, increased susceptibility to fungus and sucking insects, tip dieback—these are all the price we ask a plant to pay when it must tolerate drought.

Just because it puts up with the shade, don’t ask it to take the drought, too, or Astilbe will simply retract its developing flower buds in crisped disappointment. Spirea is a dogged player, even where it’s dry—just don’t expect it to put on any but the briefest floral show. Misunderstood Monarda, grown dry for fear of wetting its mildew-prone leaves, will powder up even sooner than otherwise. Given constant moisture the same plant may show not a spot of gray.

Pests can tell a plant that’s being tolerant, even if we can’t see any difference. Above, this butterfly weed (Asclepias tuberosa) growing in compacted soil at roadside may look fine at first glance...but it regularly falls prey to aphids (below) that never touch its sister plants growing 10 feet away in deeper, better drained soil.
Pests can tell a plant that’s being tolerant, even if we can’t see any difference. Above, this butterfly weed (Asclepias tuberosa) growing in compacted soil at roadside may look fine at first glance…but it regularly falls prey to aphids (below) that never touch its sister plants growing 10 feet away in deeper, better drained soil.

butterfly-weed-attacked-by-aphids-0718

Muttering in the Mud

Listen early in the year for the voices of plants who want out of the wet soil. They give themselves pep talks and start into growth, then gasp as stems are bitten by crown rot and fall. Surviving stems bear pale and discolored leaves, deprived of nutrients available only in warmer or better-aerated soils. Leaf spot and mildew plague them, especially at high summer.

Burning bushes and yews must be the most tolerant plants of all time, for all the places they’re asked to grow. But watch them to be the first to tell you when it’s too wet, with pale foliage that yellows or develops fall color early. Redtwig dogwood, a native to wet places where soil water is constantly refreshed, is often relegated to stagnant mud where its beautiful foliage assumes a tortured, pocked look.

Don’t scoff at intolerance of confinement. Look closely at the bee balm (Monarda ‘Violet Queen’) in the center of this picture. See the brown, thin, stunted, bloomed-out stems to the right? That’s her mother plant, the only difference between the two being that the daughter is a division, set into fresh soil renewed with compost.
Don’t scoff at intolerance of confinement. Look closely at the bee balm (Monarda ‘Violet Queen’) in the center of this picture. See the brown, thin, stunted, bloomed-out stems to the right? That’s her mother plant, the only difference between the two being that the daughter is a division, set into fresh soil renewed with compost.

Crabby in Confinement

Some aspects of a plant’s environment are quite natural, others almost entirely manmade. Confinement, for instance: forcing a plant that wants to spread to stay put, or restricting a woody plant that wants to stretch its roots to a small pot.

We must confine plants to be able to grow trees in openings in the sidewalk or perennial gardens in patio containers. That’s all copasetic so long as we understand the unavoidable consequence of limited space: premature aging. Wood ages and dies sooner, herbaceous stems become more crowded more quickly, leaf size diminishes on older limbs and crowns, and diseases multiply as blooms decrease.

So star magnolia and callery pear will perform acceptably where their root space is limited, but to keep them flowering well, prune regularly to stimulate fresh young growth. Mint makes a great container plant, lush and fragrant even on a hot patio, but where one in the garden might need dividing every two or three years, divide the potted one each and every spring.

If I were a plant, I would probably tolerate much in exchange for compliments and the satisfaction of persisting against all odds. Yet I doubt that I could handle confinement with anything approaching grace, for there as here I would always want a little more space!

Article by Janet Macunovich and photos by Steven Nikkila, www.gardenatoz.com.

Filed Under: Janet’s Journal Tagged With: conditions, Janet Macunovich, Janet’s Journal, moisture, perennials, soil, tolerance

How to make your own soilless potting mix

July 11, 2016   •   1 Comment

What is a good formula for making soilless potting mix?

Years ago Cornell University published a simple and effective recipe for a soilless potting mix that works well for most plants. It is 1 bushel of peat moss, 1 bushel of perlite or vermiculite, 1/2 pound of dolomitic limestone, 1 pound of 5-10-5 fertilizer, and 1-1/2 ounces of 20 percent superphosphate fertilizer. Most commercial mixes now on the market began with this recipe and have since been amended to create a plethora of combinations suited to specific plants. There are special commercial combinations available for seed starting, houseplants, cactus, violets, orchids, and many many more for general container plantings.

You can create your own soilless potting mix using the basic recipe as a start, depending on your particular needs. For instance, using perlite allows for needed air pockets, along with quicker drainage and drying, but probably will require more frequent watering. Using vermiculite, on the other hand, creates air pockets, but holds moisture longer for those plants that do not like to dry so much between waterings.

Another option is to use composted woody fines or ground bark in place of some of the peat moss. The woody fines and bark absorb water more readily than peat moss. Coir (coconut husk) is also an excellent ingredient in place of or in addition to peat moss. Dry peat moss resists wetting and you will find that commercial mixes include a wetting agent to facilitate the wetting of the peat moss. You should always wet peat moss well before use, and if it ever dries completely be sure to water the container several times until you know the water is being absorbed and not just running off the top and down the insides of the container, as dry peat moss will shrink inward and pull away from the edges of the container, allowing too much runoff.

The addition of builder’s sand will create a mix that drains very quickly for cactus or succulents, and also add weight to the container if you have a tall plant that is prone to tipping over in a lightweight mix. In terms of fertilization, if you are less inclined to do it regularly, try substituting a slow-release fertilizer that will last for several months. If you are an erratic waterer, try adding some of the new crystals made of polymers that hold water and release it gradually. A way to help yourself decide what ingredients a particular mix should have might begin with reading the ingredient labels of the commercial products. You will get some good ideas for amendments that suit your special needs.

As you concoct your own version of soilless mix, keep a few things in mind. Your goal will be to have water move through the media quickly, leaving water absorbed by the media and at the same time leaving air pockets in the media to supply oxygen for the roots. The one big “don’t” is don’t use real soil from your yard or garden in the mix. It is heavy, doesn’t drain well in containers, and brings in pathogens and possible chemical residuals. You may also want to compare the cost of your chosen ingredients to the cost of commercial mixes. Making your own may or may not save money.

Filed Under: Ask MG Tagged With: soil, soilless potting mix

Repairing soil visited by cats

January 5, 2016   •   Leave a Comment

What can I do to repair soil in a yard that is occupied/visited by several neighborhood cats (to help eliminate the smell and to make the soil better for plant growth)?

Cats are territorial and often use urine as a way to mark their properties. Cat urine contains pheromones, which is a substance that cats and other animals use for communicating. Pheromones are much like fingerprints with humans, as they are used to identify the cat to other animals. When a cat sprays, it is his way of letting other cats know that this is his territory.

If you can identify the areas most frequented, you can repair the soil by removing the compromised material and adding new soil appropriate for the plants you are growing. Cat urine is highly acidic. Some resources suggest neutralizing any remaining acidity still in the soil with hydrated lime and thoroughly mixing it into the soil.

Once you remove the urine-marked soil, the cats will return and want to refresh their territory. Therefore, you need a multi-pronged approach to keep them away. Go for odor repellant and the element of surprise. Purchase a commercial product to spray on your plants and soil surfaces that will repel them from re-staking their claim to your garden. A product that contains the scent of a predator such as coyote or fox, effective against rabbits and squirrels, is also effective with cats. They will go someplace else rather than take the chance of encountering a predator. Secondly, a motion-activated water sprayer has demonstrated that its unexpected “attack” can keep the more persistent offenders away. Using other motion-activated devices that emit unexpected noises, like a dog barking, can also be effective when used in combination. Cats are quick learners despite their often aloof attitude. Once you have established your gardens are no longer a feline restroom, they will seek out less threatening facilities.

 

Filed Under: Ask MG Tagged With: cats, plant growth, repair, soil

Amend your soils to rid soil compaction

October 7, 2014   •   Leave a Comment

MSU Extension:

Gardeners may want to consider whether they’ve been seeing these signs of soil compaction. The soil seems difficult to dig or till. Or the plants are not growing as well as they should and seem to have an inadequate root system. Water tends to collect and puddle after a heavy rain and is slow to drain. Any of these may be due to compacted soils.

Soil compaction occurs when particles are packed too closely together. Compaction is more common in heavier soils like clay and loam; however, it can occur on sandy soils as well, especially if heavy equipment is used on the lawn or garden. Compaction can be compounded by events that occurred to the soil over several years.

Read the rest of the story here…

Filed Under: Clippings Tagged With: amend, amendments, compaction, soil, soil compaction

The secret behind growing tasty tomatoes

June 6, 2012   •   Leave a Comment

Most of us in Michigan that plan on growing tomatoes this season have already planted. But, in the event you still haven’t or want to take notes for next year, here is some good information in the quest for a tomato with optimal taste.

The Salt at NPR:

It’s tomato time here in the mid-Atlantic – the critical moment when those of us eager to pull fat, bright fruit off our own backyard vines in a couple months are scurrying to get tender little plants in the ground.

But as anyone who’s spent a few summers of kneeling in the dirt can tell you, healthy-looking vines will not necessarily get you a mind-blowingly delicious tomato. And why?

Well, it turns out that scientists still don’t know exactly what growing conditions are responsible for the supertasty tomato. But they have a few inklings, which are worth keeping in mind as you try to coax sweetness and tartness from your seedlings.

Read the full story here…

Filed Under: Clippings Tagged With: acid, NPR. The Salt, soil, tomato, tomatoes, UV

What are the best conditions for transplanting blueberry bushes?

July 30, 2011   •   

We purchased a home that has a yard with two blueberry bushes. The blueberry bushes are in a sun location, isolated from each other and surrounded by our lawn. They are approximately three feet high. Can we transplant these bushes? If so, would they prefer sun or shade, dry soil or compost-rich soil? Also, when is a good time to perform the transplant?

Blueberry plants prefer a moist, rich, acidic soil. The ideal soil should be evenly moist, but not constantly wet or subject to flooding. The soil should be amended with sphagnum peat, compost or other organic matter. The ideal soil pH for blueberries is 4.5 to 6.0. Most of our native soils are much higher than this and will require the addition of sulfur, iron sulfate or aluminum sulfate to lower the pH. A soil test would be helpful to determine the amount of sulfur needed. Transplanting blueberry bushes is best done in early spring before growth begins. The best fruit production is achieved when 2 different varieties are planted close enough for cross-pollination. The plants should be no more than 10 feet apart. Blueberries prefer full sun.

Filed Under: Ask MG Tagged With: acidic, blueberry, rich, soil, transplanting

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