by George Papadelis

www.bulb.com
Chionodoxa luciliaeAs spring approaches, gardeners seek the familiar signs of yet another growing season. Even before trees produce their leaves and the spring equinox arrives, the garden can be alive with color from early blooming bulbs. In February, some warming can bring up an occasional flower or two, but by March, color is almost guaranteed through the planting of crocus, snowdrops (Galanthus), or glory-of-the-show (Chionodoxa).

By late March (sometimes early April), glory-of-the-snow produces 6 to 10 one-inch wide, single flowers that last 3 to 4 weeks. Besides their vibrant color, these starry flowers are unique in that each blossom has a distinct white center. The species Chionodoxa forbesii (formerly C. luciliae) has glowing blue flowers, while the variety ‘Pink Giant’ has rosy-pink blooms. Both grow 6 to 10 inches tall. Since the flowers are small, a planting of 20 to 50 bulbs would provide the best show. This is also economically practical since the bulbs are usually inexpensive.

www.bulb.com
Chionodoxa gigantea Glory-of-the-snow is very easy to grow and amongst the hardiest of all bulbs. Only well-drained soil and some sun are required for good performance. Bulbs should be planted with bulb fertilizer in the fall about 3 inches deep and 3 to 4 inches apart. Glory-of-the-snow self-sows and divides itself very freely to form self-sustaining clumps that may last effortlessly for years. However, best results occur if the younger bulbs or “offsets” are dug up in May and replanted with fresh soil, fertilizer, and adequate space. 

The only pest problem may be a hungry squirrel looking for a freshly planted snack. If this is a threat in your garden, some chicken wire buried above the bulbs usually does the trick.

Plant glory-of-the-snow in clumps around trees, in the rock garden, or even in your lawn. It works wonderfully alone or in combination with other spring-blooming bulbs. Later-blooming bulbs such as tulips can also be placed in the same planting hole since they require deeper planting depths of 6 to 10 inches. Glory-of-the-snow thrives in woodland situations if tree leaves are shredded, mulched, or raked off to assist them in spring emergence.

www.waysidegardens.com
Chionodoxa ‘Pink Giant’ This tiny spring treasure is a must for any garden because of its versatility, performance, and durability. Try it almost anywhere! Just a few minutes of digging in the fall will allow glory-of-the-snow to grace you with its presence for many years to come.

George Papadelis is the owner of Telly’s Greenhouse in Troy, MI.

At a glance: Glory-of-the-snow 

Botanical Name: Chionodoxa (ky-on-oh-DOK-suh)

Plant Type: Bulb

Plant Size: 5-10 inches tall

Flower Color: Rich blue with white centers (most common); also pink, white

Flower Size: 1 inch wide

Bloom Period: Late March – Early April

Leaves: Narrow, upright sprays

Light: Sun-light shade

Soil: Well-drained

Hardiness: Zone 3

Uses: Border, woodland areas, rock garden, nauralizer, lawn

Remarks: Plant in the fall, 3-4 inches deep

www.waysidegardens.com
Persian Parrotia by Eric Grant

As the relaxing breezes of fall’s changing season waft across the land, autumnal tradition is at hand. With flower beds cleaned, and perennials cut back and mulched, the eyes of gardeners lift from the ground and look to the trees in anticipation of the colorful encore of fall. It is tradition. Neither written nor posted on our garden paths, it is the soulful refuge which caps our efforts of another growing season. This culmination of the gardening experience is one of the few for which we need do nothing. It comes to us each year without our prodding, regardless of how well we fertilized, kept up with the weeds, or carefully cultivated our palette of plants.

The predictably late emerging color of one particular tree always catches my attention. The masterful blends of everything autumn are held by the Persian parrotia (Parrotia persica).

www.whiteflowerfarm.com/
Persian Parrotia Given the vibrant yellow, vivid orange, and nearly screaming scarlet tones of the leaves, I can’t help but wonder why this relatively unknown tree is scarcely planted. With a size and habit inadvertently tailored to suburban landscapes, its rarity is assuredly curious. Usually maturing in the realm of 25 to 30 feet, this is a tree which can truly proclaim being problem-free. It bears strong branching, a multitude of attributes throughout the year, and a grandeur from which insects and diseases run. Whether they know it or not, this is the tree sought by homeowners everywhere, yet found by few. Even in a year of muted tones, the colorful fall performance of Persian parrotia is outstanding.

The harmony of its hues caused me to reflect on its name. I have known this tree for years and have always thought it appropriate that it had the word “parrot” within its title. Research, however, revealed that “Parrot” was actually the name of a naturalist for whom the tree was named, not at all the colorful bird I had assumed. Also ironic is the species name “persica” which aptly refers to its persistence. And persistent it is. While its color is late, it reliably holds well beyond its peers.

When the season’s applause is dropped from its branches, I find myself no less disappointed. The smooth, young, silvery branches are held upright by a maturing trunk cloaked in the most appealing bark. The somewhat peeling, patchy tapestry of brown, green, silver-gray, and off-white offer the most delicate interest. Eye-catching in any season, winter heralds its greatest contrast, as it will again be persistent to not disappoint. Few people consider the winter elements of the things they plant, and even fewer plan for them. Once again, Persian parrotia inadvertently shines through!

So many outstanding attributes leave me nearly aghast to know that there is indeed more. Although some months off, and content with its current presentation, spring will reveal yet another visual delight. Following the small, curious blooms in March (often missed from a distance), the young, unfurling leaves are a purplish shade of burgundy I can’t otherwise describe. The contrast against its spring-green palette seems to enforce the reason that colors themselves exist. Often holding its tones well into spring, these leaves will eventually transform into a rich, deep green. In conjunction with deeply textured leaves, it provides an effect that is both cooling and calming.

Persian parrotia, it seems, knows exactly what we need in every season and then provides it. While native to the Middle East, this tapestry of a plant couldn’t be better suited to our gardens. I can no longer imagine my yard without it.

Eric Grant is from Telly’s Greenhouse in Troy, Michigan.

At a glance: Persian parrotia

Botanical name: Parrotia persica (puh-ROE-tee-uh PER-sik-uh)

Plant type: Deciduous tree

Plant size: 25-35 feet tall and wide

Growth rate: Medium to slow (8 to 14 inches per year)

Habit: Rounded to broad oval

Hardiness: Zone 4-8

Flower color: Scarlet

Flower size: Small (less than 1/2 inch), inconspicuous

Flower time: March

Leaf color: Spring: deep burgundy; Summer: deep green; Autumn: red, orange, and yellow

Leaf size: Length: 2-1/2 to 5 inches; Width: 1 to 2-1/2 inches

Bark: Mature branches and trunks display a mottled tapestry of brown, green, silver-gray,  and off-white

Light: Full sun to light shade

Soil: Well-drained, slightly acidic

Uses: Ideal alternative for foundation plantings, or as a small specimen tree for the yard

Remarks: Few other trees can claim the bounty of beauty in four seasons; free of diseases and insects

www.waysidegardens.com
Dicentra ‘Luxuriant’K. Van Bourgondien / 800-437-7501
Dicentra ‘Bacchanal’by George Papadelis

Fern-leaf bleeding heart boasts versatility, durability, and beauty. It differs from its cousin, old-fashioned bleeding heart (Dicentra spectabilis), in many ways. Old-fashioned bleeding heart can grow up to 4 feet tall and equally wide. The common form produces the classic white “heart” shaped flowers that “bleed” rosy red “drips” on either side of each flower. The blossoms emerge in spring and gracefully cascade from arching stems. Flowers last 6 or more weeks, but the plants usually go dormant by summer. They are therefore best planted in the rear of the border behind summer bloomers. In contrast, fern-leaf bleeding heart rarely grows over 15 inches, will bloom almost all summer long without going dormant, has handsome cut-leaf foliage, and has smaller “non-bleeding” flowers. These are available in a range of leaf and flower colors that provide gardeners with many choices for their shadier spots.

Fern-leaf bleeding heart is a North American native that can actually be divided into two very similar species. The western species, Dicentra formosa (western bleeding heart), occurs naturally from northern California to British Columbia while our eastern species, Dicentra eximia (fern-leaf or fringed bleeding heart), is found from New York to Georgia. Breeders in America and Europe have used these to develop several interesting varieties with flowers that range from white to pink to lavender to deep red. ‘Luxuriant’ is the most readily available variety and has cherry red flowers above 12- to 15-inch blue-green foliage. For an excellent white, try ‘Snowdrift’ or ‘Snowflakes’; both have blue-green leaves and grow 10 to 14 inches tall. For one of the deepest reds and almost silver-blue leaves, look for ‘Bacchanal’ at only 8 to 10 inches tall. Most of the newer varieties have beautiful foliage that is worth considering for any semi-shady site.

Fern-leaf bleeding hearts form slow-spreading clumps that require no maintenance all season long. They can tolerate the coldest of winters and are not too particular about soil type as long as it isn’t too heavy. They do, however, thrive in moist, fertile soil. Plants will tolerate full sun, but prefer a semi-shaded site. Too much shade, however, will discourage flowering, which typically lasts from spring until fall. Avoid positioning this plant where competition from tree roots will occur since the lack of water and nutrients can make bleeding hearts only last for a few years. To maintain the healthiest, longest-blooming plants, divide the crown every 3 or 4 years in early spring or late summer. When planting new divisions, take advantage of this opportunity to amend your soil with organic matter such as compost, manure, or aged pine bark. Once established, this disease- and insect-resistant plant will effortlessly flower for years without requiring staking, deadheading, or pruning.

The relatively small size of fern-leaf bleeding heart makes it ideal for the front of the shady garden. It can also be used nestled between boulders in your rock garden or planted among trillium and Jack-in-the-pulpits in your woodland garden. Its tidy, bluish foliage and long season of bloom combine to make it useful as an edging plant too. The blue-green ferny leaves are contrasted beautifully by the bold purple-red leaves of coral bells (Heuchera) or by the large gold leaves of Hosta ‘Daybreak.’ Plant fern-leaf bleeding heart with an ornamental grass for shade such as golden hakone grass (Hakonechloa macra ‘Aureola’). Its fine, wispy gold leaves against the ferny blue-green leaves of the bleeding heart would provide a long-lasting combination of different colors and textures.

George Papadelis is the owner of Telly’s Greenhouse in Troy, MI.

www.whiteflowerfarm.com
Dicentra eximia ‘Snowdrift’Walters Gardens
Dicentra ‘King of Hearts’www.whiteflowerfarm.com
Dicentra ‘Snowdrift’

At a glance: Fern-leaf Bleeding Heart

Botanical name: Dicentra eximia (dy-SEN-truh eks-IM-ee-uh)

Plant type: Perennial

Plant size: 10 to 15 inches tall and wide

Habit: Clump-forming mound

Hardiness: Zone 3

Flower color: Pink, deep pink, cherry red, deep red, white

Flower size: 1 inch long, narrow heart-shaped

Bloom period: Spring to fall

Leaf color: Blue-green, gray-green

Leaf size: 4-12 inches long, fern-like

Light: Partial shade

Soil: Well-drained, fertile, moist 

Uses: Front of the shade border; rock garden

Companion plants: Hostas (smaller, gold- and blue-leaved varieties), purple-leaved coral bells (Heucheras)

Remarks: Grown in the proper conditions, may self-seed in the garden. Divide every 3 to 4 years. Avoid dry soil areas in the summer.

Photos by Wayside Gardens / www.waysidegardens.com
Amsonia hubrechtiiAmsonia hubrechtiiby George Papadelis

September is too often considered a challenging month for perennial gardeners. Many of us believe mums are the only annual or perennial that provides interest in the fall. Nothing could be further from the truth. In sunny areas, try perennials like Sedum ‘Autumn Joy,’ hardy plumbago (Ceratostigma), boltonia, asters, blue mist spirea (Caryopteris), and ornamental grasses, just to name a few. In shady spots, try anemones, toad lilies (Tricyrtis), yellow wax bells (Kirengeshoma), hosta plantaginea, and fall-blooming crocus. And don’t forget about pansies. They are getting easier to find in the fall, and if planted then, they can bloom until Christmas or longer. Amsonia is yet another one of these late season performers whose color and durability make it a must for the fall garden.

Amsonia is rarely referred to by its common name “blue star.” Unlike most perennials, this one exhibits striking fall color that is more typical of many trees and shrubs. By late September, amsonia’s tight mound of olive-green, willow-like foliage takes on a brilliant yellow-gold color. This blends beautifully with other fall color, whether from mums or shrubs. Even before the fall show develops, these rounded mounds of fine foliage provide handsome forms and textures in the summer garden. Flowers too? Yes! In the spring, amsonia is covered with small, pale blue, star-shaped flowers, from which the common name is derived. Like many perennials, these only last a few weeks. It is the foliage of this plant which deserves recognition and more frequent use in the garden.

Amsonia tabernaemontanaAmsonia has one other rare quality. This eastern U.S. native thrives in heavy, moist soil. “Heavy, moist” means clay and many of us have plenty of it. Use organic soil amendments like compost and peat moss when planting, but some clay will make amsonia feel right at home. Blue star is also long-lived, so dividing or replacing it will rarely be necessary. Position the plant in sun or partial sun and let time do the rest. After one year in the garden, you have plants large enough to draw attention. Keep in mind amsonia’s broken stems release a milky sap that may cause skin irritation.

Two types of amsonia are readily available and vary only in leaf form. Willow leaf amsonia or blue star (Amsonia tabernaemontana) has wider leaves resembling those of a willow tree, while Arkansas blue star (Amsonia hubrichtii) has very narrow leaves. Naturally, the latter species produces foliage effects that are finer and lighter in texture. Both types grow 2 to 3 feet tall and have great fall color.

If big, bright flowers are all you need in your fall garden, mums are probably your best bet. On the other hand, amsonia provides tidy mounds of beautifully textured foliage followed by outstanding fall color for years and years. Try it with some of the previously mentioned fall performers for a late season show you’re sure to enjoy.

George Papadelis is the owner of Telly’s Greenhouse in Troy.

At a glance: Amsonia

Pronunciation: am-SO-nee-ah

Common name: Blue star

Plant type: Perennial

Plant size: 24-36” tall, 36” wide

Flower color: Pale blue, star-shaped

Flower size: 1” across

Bloom period: Late spring to early summer

Leaves: Green; 2-6” long; 1/2-1” wide or very fine, depending on variety

Light: Full to part sun

Soil: Only moderately fertile, moist soil; prefers some clay content; if soil is too fertile, plant may tend to flop 

Uses: Perennial border; use for its foliage texture, especially in the fall.

Companion plants: Sedum ‘Autumn Joy,’ ornamental grasses, boltonia, Russian sage, asters, blue mist spirea

Remarks: Fantastic golden yellow fall color. Long-lived perennial; frequent division is not necessary.

W. Atlee Burpee & Co. / 800-888-1447
Chelone lyonii ‘Hot Lips’by George Papadelis

Garden centers fill their benches in the fall with thousands of mums. But what else is blooming? With a little effort, dozens of great perennials that bloom during early fall can be found. Chelone, or turtlehead, is a North American native perennial whose peak flowering period lasts about four weeks from August to September.

Chelone has the common name turtlehead because its individual florets resemble the head of a turtle. The individual flowers are about 1 inch long and are borne on short, pointed spikes that rest above glossy green foliage. Plants grow 2 to 3 feet tall and about 1-1/2 to 2 feet wide. Turtlehead prefers moist, rich soil and partial sun but can tolerate full sun if provided adequate moisture. It grows in and close to woodlands all over the eastern half of the U.S. and Canada. Like many native plants, it is well adapted to our climate and soils and is also more insect- and disease-resistant. Turtlehead will last for many years with little or no care at all. When plants grow beyond their allocated space, they can be easily divided in spring.

K. Van Bourgondien & Sons / 800-622-9997
Chelone obliquaThree species of Chelone are readily available and each offers some traits that may be beneficial in your garden. Chelone glabra is often called white turtlehead (or swamp turtlehead) because its flowers are usually white tinged with a hint of pink. It blooms a bit earlier than the other two species, starting in late July and continuing through August. Of the three species, this one is the most sun-tolerant.

Chelone lyonii is the most popular turtlehead. It is usually pink, prefers partial sun and blooms about the same time as Chelone glabra. The variety ‘Hot Lips’ has rich pink flowers and reddish stems.

Chelone obliqua has flowers of the deepest pink that are sometimes even described as purple. It also comes in an all white form called Chelone obliqua ‘Alba.’ Chelone obliqua does offer one unique advantage over the other turtleheads: it is the latest blooming species. This one won’t start flowering until late August and continues for about four weeks into September. This later bloom time is especially valuable since the more popular summer bloomers like black-eyed Susan (Rudbeckia) and phlox are probably done.

So you might be thinking turtlehead would look great with some mums, right? Sure it would, but also consider some of the other late bloomers that would look beautiful next to the leaves and flowers of pink turtlehead. The blue or purple flowers of fall asters would make an excellent partner that grows from 1 to 3 feet tall. For a shorter blue bloomer, try the spreading plumbago (Ceratostigma plumbaginoides) whose electric-blue flowers are complimented by beautiful reddish-bronze fall foliage. The later-blooming monkshood (Aconitum napellus) has dark blue flowers on 4-foot spikes that resemble delphiniums from a distance. Check out other late bloomers like Joe pye weed (Eupatorium), hardy hibiscus, anemones, ornamental grasses, and fall-blooming crocus, to name a few. Keep in mind that turtlehead does produce a column of green leaves that is very visible when the plant is in bloom so you may want to soften it with a shorter flower or some complimentary beautiful leaves.

The cooler fall temperatures give us the perfect opportunity to spruce up our flower beds and begin planning for next year’s garden. Plants are less prone to transplant shock and will require less watering if cultivated in the fall. Plant some spring-blooming bulbs, think about trying some pansies, and don’t forget those mums. With these and the myriad of fall bloomers like turtlehead, all of us should have a spectacular September garden.

George Papadelis is the owner of Telly’s Greenhouse in Troy, MI.

At a glance: Turtlehead

Botanical name: Chelone (keh-LOW-nee)

Plant type: Perennial

Plant size: 2-3 feet tall; 1-1/2-2 feet wide

Habit: Upright

Hardiness: Zone 3 (zone 5 for Chelone obliqua)

Flower color: Pink, white

Flower size: 1-inch long

Bloom period: August-September

Leaf color: Green, dark green

Leaf size: 2-8 inches long

Light: Partial shade to full sun

Soil: Rich, moist soil

Uses: Areas in the garden that are continually moist or wet; bog garden; stream or pond bank

Companion plants: Asters, Joe pye weed, hardy hibiscus, anemones, ornamental grasses, plumbago

Remarks: Native plant. Provide adequate moisture if positioned in full sun.

Jonathon Hofley / Michigan Gardener
‘Rostrahlbusch’ switch grass in the summer.by George Papadelis

Ornamental grasses are an enormous group of plants whose popularity has altered our perception of perennial gardening. Before ornamental grasses, perennial purists struggled to find plants that provided winter interest and yet died down to the ground like the rest of the garden. Some gardeners rebelled and began using smaller evergreen shrubs. Others found solace with upright sedums like Sedum ‘Autumn Joy.’ Now, we have ornamental grasses.

Besides providing winter interest, grasses have fall color, move beautifully in the wind, and most have flowers that last long into the winter. They are extremely diverse too. Some grow in sun, others in shade. They may be as little as 1 inch tall or towering to 20 feet. It is more and more difficult to find an American garden without an ornamental grass.

Jonathon Hofley / Michigan Gardener
‘Heavy Metal’One of the most valuable ornamental grasses is switch grass (Panicum virgatum). This North American native has many of the attributes that make ornamental grasses popular. All switch grasses are clumpers. In other words, none of them are runners, which can quickly outgrow their allotted space and become a nuisance. Clumps of switch grass expand so slowly that they may not require dividing for 10 years or longer. When your clump eventually does grow too wide for your garden, you’ll need to dig up the entire crown to divide it. I have often equated dividing ornamental grasses to dividing the trunk of a tree. It’s easier with a chain saw, but an axe or hacksaw will do the trick. Basketball-size clumps will make great specimens within a year. The only maintenance your switch grass will require is a trim to about 6 inches in late March or early April. This allows the new growth to begin unencumbered by last year’s old growth.

All switch grasses have gray-green to blue-green leaves that turn gold to orange-red in fall and then fade to a wintertime shade of tan. The fall flowers emerge pinkish, reddish, or silvery and mature to a grayish white or brown. They will tolerate almost any kind of soil from wet to dry and from sand to clay. They prefer full sun but will tolerate light shade. Height can range from 3 feet to as tall as 7 feet. Needless to say, switch grasses are very versatile plants.

My favorite switch grass is ‘Heavy Metal.’ I first saw this plant from a tour bus at Longwood Gardens in 1992. I could not believe how stiff and upright this tight clump grew. It has metallic gray-blue leaves on a 3- to 4-foot tall plant. The purple flower sprays that emerge in late summer are followed by its bright yellow fall color. It’s spectacular. This one looks great in rows to form a short hedge or alone among perennials in any border.

Jonathon Hofley / Michigan Gardener
‘Dallas Blues’The largest switch grass you will find is ‘Cloud Nine.’ It can grow from 5 to 7 feet tall and has a more vase-shaped habit. Its light blue leaves hold up great in strong winds. It produces yellowish flowers in late fall that blush to tan for a winter show. The larger size of this switch grass makes it ideal as a visual barrier or background plant.

Panicum ‘Prairie Skies’ is a more upright grower like ‘Heavy Metal,’ only larger, to 5 or 6 feet tall. This exceptional, strong grower will usually produce substantial plants faster than other varieties. The powdery-blue foliage yields soft blue-gray flowers in fall.

‘Shenandoah’ is a shorter variety, only growing to 3 feet tall. Its other distinction is its deep red leaf color that starts in June and intensifies as the season progresses. In late summer, red flowers emerge that mimic the red leaf color. 

‘Dallas Blues’ bears very wide leaf blades of powdery blue. These unusual leaves grow on a 6-foot tall plant that develops 2-foot long, football-shaped flower heads of purple-blue that turn to a rich orange-tan by fall. The huge flowers are the most wind responsive of any of the switch grasses; the slightest breeze will send your garden into a long mesmerizing dance.

If you are using your switch grass in a perennial border, there are many late-blooming perennials that make fine companions. The showy stonecrop sedums (Sedum spectabile) include several varieties like ‘Autumn Fire,’ ‘Neon,’ and ‘Pink Chablis.’ These offer some interesting flowers as well as foliage for the autumn garden. Russian sage (Perovskia) offers lavender flowers above silvery foliage that grows 3 to 4 feet tall. Fall-blooming asters and boltonia are available in several colors and provide masses of late season flowers. 

Hines Horticulture
‘Shenandoah’Fall is a wonderful season to garden. Plants can be transplanted or divided with less stress and with less water. This is a perfect time to reevaluate your gardens and determine what changes should be made. Also, imagine your garden at wintertime to see if your landscape lacks winter interest.

Switch grass is a versatile plant that provides year-round interest with minimal care. With the companions mentioned above, ornamental grasses can be used to ensure a stunning display that lasts well into winter. Get to know this valuable group of plants; every American garden should have some.

George Papadelis is the owner of Telly’s Greenhouse in Troy, MI.

At a glance: Switch grass

Botanical name: Panicum virgatum (PA-ni-kum vir-GAH-tum)

Plant type: Perennial ornamental grass

Plant size: 3-7 feet tall

Habit: Upright or vase-shaped

Hardiness: Zone 5

Flower color: Soft purple, yellowish, gray-blue, pinkish red

Flowers: Airy clusters

Bloom period: Fall

Leaf color: Various shades of blue-green or gray-green

Light: Full sun to light shade; flowering and fall color are best in full sun

Soil: Tolerant of most types; from dry to wet, sandy to clay

Uses: Perennial bed, mixed border, hedge, specimen plant

Companion plants: Tall sedums, Russian sage, boltonia,  asters, mums

Remarks: Great year-round interest; fantastic fall color, from yellows to orange-reds, changing to tan in winter; easy to grow

www.monrovia.com
Bronzy fall color of northern sea oats.by George Papadelis

Ornamental grasses are one group of plants that draws a great deal of attention each fall when most of them produce their inflorescence. Consequently, gardeners re-evaluate the possibility of adding a grass or two to the landscape and more are planted in fall than any other time of year.

Ornamental grasses are an enormous group of plants that are usually perennial and typically provide attractive foliage in summer as well as winter. The four popular genera for sun are maiden grass (Miscanthus), switch grass (Panicum), fountain grass (Pennisetum), and feather reed grass (Calamagrostis). Some, like Carex (technically a sedge, not a grass) and forest grass (Hakonechloa), will tolerate shade. Northern sea oats produces beautiful seedpods and boasts tolerance of both full sun and part shade.

Eric Hofley / Michigan Gardener
The “flowers” are just emerging in this early July photograph.Park Seed
Tan winter color.Northern sea oats (Chasmanthium) is native to south, central, and eastern North America and is very hardy (zone 4). Like many other ornamental grasses, the dead foliage from the previous season should be trimmed in April to just a few inches above the ground. Spring weather will encourage the growth of bright green, grass-like leaves that are about an inch wide and 7 to 8 inches long. They develop on bamboo-like stems that typically grow from 2 to 4 feet tall. Northern sea oats’ crown is comprised of slow-spreading rhizomes that will only increase the plant’s size by a few inches per year. Plants that are well-established can be divided in spring.

Flat, green “flowers” develop on the arching stem tips from July through September. In fall, these become tan well before the foliage turns to copper in early winter. The flower heads are beautiful and the slightest breeze will send them dancing on the delicate stems from which they gracefully cascade. Snow and ice will add to their magnificence while they gradually shatter until spring.

The flowers do produce viable seed that can produce seedlings in spring. These are usually most prevalent when the soil is well-cultivated and kept quite wet. These volunteers are rarely a nuisance, but I do know of at least one gardener that has banned northern sea oats from her plant list. On the other hand, the northern sea oats in my garden has rarely produced seedlings.

Eric Hofley / Michigan Gardener
Sea green flowers shimmer in the breeze.www.monrovia.com
The summer to fall color change.Northern sea oats will thrive in full sun but will also tolerate almost total shade. In full sun, plants will grow slightly shorter and should not be allowed to dry out. Plants grown in shade or part shade are drought-tolerant once established. Try planting northern sea oats under larger trees where competition from tree roots may present a problem for other perennials.

The versatility of this plant makes it a welcome addition to almost any border planting. The bright green, narrow leaves are an excellent foil to contrast with broader foliage such as hostas, rodgersias, or perennial forget-me-nots (Brunnera). They may also be positioned near the finer foliage of astilbes or ferns. Almost any flower would be complimented by a backdrop of northern sea oats foliage. Each winter, when other perennials die back to the soil, northern sea oats stays up to provide the winter interest for which ornamental grasses are best known.

Great foliage, fascinating flowers, and almost a full year of interest make northern sea oats worth considering in your landscape. Best of all, its tolerance of sun or shade makes it suitable for use almost anywhere.

George Papadelis is the owner of Telly’s Greenhouse in Troy, MI.

At a glance: Northern sea oats

Botanical name: Chasmanthium latifolium (chaz-MAN-thee-um la-ti-FOH-lee-um)

Plant type: Perennial

Plant size: 24-48 inches tall and wide

Habit: Upright and clumping

Hardiness: Zone 4

Flower color: Sea green, maturing to bronze, then tan

Bloom period: July to September

Leaf color: Bright green, maturing to coppery gold

Leaf size: 1 inch wide, 7-8 inches long

Light: Sun to shade

Soil: Adapts to a wide range from moist to dry

Uses: Excellent backdrop for other plants and their flowers. Great 4-season interest: crisp green in the spring, dangling flowers in the summer, bronzy flower and foliage color in the fall, and tan tones in the winter.

Companion plants: Bold foliage like hostas, rodgersias, and perennial forget-me-nots (Brunnera). Fine foliage like astilbes and ferns. 

Remarks: Dangling, oat-like “flowers” shimmer in the slightest breeze. Very versatile, since it can adapt to both sun and shade, and moist to dry soils.

Jonathon Hofley / Michigan Gardener
‘QIS Lilac’by George Papadelis

The dog days of summer can certainly take a toll on the garden. Many plants are well-suited for intense heat while others struggle to maintain a flower for more than a few hours. One of the most heat-tolerant, and underused, annuals is Gomphrena. Its common name is globe amaranth and it is native to Central America. Once established in the garden, globe amaranth will tolerate temperatures in the hundreds about as well as any annual. It comes in several colors and plant height can vary from just 9 inches tall to over two feet. In my opinion, the best thing about globe amaranth is that it is relatively uncommon; plants will usually draw enough attention to conjure the occasional, “What is that?” I love hearing those words of wonderment from gardeners.

Gomphrena develops clover-like, round flower spikes that are almost 1 inch across. They make a great cut flower, and when dried, they will retain their shape and color indefinitely. They will thrive in any sunny position and will tolerate a broad range of soil as long as it is well-drained. Rain can make some annuals, like petunias, droop and flop. Gomphrena, however, stands strong and erect despite high winds or rain.

Sakata Seed America
‘Gnome White’The most popular series of gomphrena is the Gnome series. It is a dwarf variety that comes in about four colors including purple, pink, and white. It only grows about 9 inches tall and wide, and makes a great edging plant. In the annual border, this is a more interesting alternative to the common marigold or ageratum. It can also be a valuable addition to containers—especially those exposed to intense sun. Its compact size makes it suitable for sale in small packs just like other, more common bedding plants. It is also one of the more inexpensive annuals you can buy.

The taller gomphrenas are the ones that I find most interesting. They can be used as a unique addition to the perennial border since they are unfamiliar to many gardeners. One of my most pleasant memories of gomphrena came to me at Longwood Gardens. The variety ‘Bicolor Rose’ was planted in a vibrant mass along with several other unique annuals. It stands about two feet tall and the rose-colored flowers sport a spot of white at the tip. This is by far one of the most vividly-colored gomphrenas available. Try this variety in small groups in the perennial garden.

Julia Hofley
‘Strawberry Fields’Sakata Seed America
‘Gnome Pink’Other tall varieties include ‘Strawberry Fields,’ with strawberry-red flowers on strong upright stems to about 24 inches. ‘Lavender Lady’ has lavender flowers on 24-inch stems. Both of these varieties are getting harder and harder to find. The ‘Woodcreek’ series (also known as the QIS series) grows 24 to 30 inches tall and comes in seven colors including lavender, pink, orange, red, purple, rose, and white. Seeds for these are somewhat more available, especially amongst the cut and dried flower circles. Plants are sometimes sold in larger packs or small pots.

Whether you garden with perennials or annuals, gomphrena provides an interesting, easy to grow, heat-tolerant choice. Gardeners often overlook gomphrena in early spring when garden center plants can appear somewhat unimpressive. But once summer comes along, few annuals can provide such a unique flower and exceptional weather tolerance.

George Papadelis is the owner of Telly’s Greenhouse in Troy, MI.

At a glance: Globe amaranth

Botanical name: Gomphrena (gom-FREE-nuh)

Plant type: Annual

Plant size: 9 to 24 inches tall and wide

Habit: Upright clump

Flower color: Lavender, rose, red, pink, orange, purple, white

Flower size: 1 inch across

Bloom period: Summer

Light: Sun

Soil: Well-drained

Uses: Shorter varieties can be used as edging plants. Taller varieties can be used both in mass annual plantings or in perennial borders.

Remarks: Exceptional heat tolerance. Stands up to wind and rain also. Excellent cut flower; when dried, retains shape and color indefinitely.

by George Papadelis

In our quest for beautiful shade gardens, we often separate foliage plants from flowering plants. The attractive foliage of plants like hosta and ferns is used to provide season-long interest. This, along with an occasional shade-loving evergreen like boxwood or holly, make up the foundation of the garden. The list of flowering plants for shade is much longer than most people think. It includes, but is not limited to, primrose, monkshood, anemone, goatsbeard, plumbago, bleeding heart, turtlehead, foam flower, true forget-me-not, globeflower, perennial lobelia, waxbells, and many, many more. These should be sprinkled throughout the garden to provide occasional splashes of color from spring to fall. Some perennials, however, may have both beautiful leaves and beautiful flowers. This list includes lenten rose, lungworts, coral bells, bugbane, astilbe, barrenwort, bergenia and many, many more. These plants are very useful, especially where space is limited and a huge variety of plants is not practical.

Walters GardensAlchemilla mollis or lady’s mantle is another plant with a dose of both great leaves and great flowers. Its silky, olive green leaves are up to 4 inches across. This leaf color is unique and valuable for the shade but my favorite feature goes beyond their color. Lady’s mantle sparkles whenever water is on the leaf surface. With rain, morning dew, or the last watering, droplets of water bead like diamonds glowing in the shade. One definition of the word “mantle” describes a cloak-like garment. The plant’s common name is derived from its resemblance to the sparkling jewels of a “lady’s mantle.”

George PapadelisAs gardeners strive to combine leaves of different textures, lady’s mantle is especially valuable. The leaves have a rare color and feel that is perfect alongside contrasting plants. In the shade, the bold foliage of almost any blue, green, or bi-colored hosta looks perfect with the light green leaves of lady’s mantle. Ferns offer fine-textured leaves to contrast. In light shade, the sword-like, deep green leaves of Siberian iris look stunning near lady’s mantle. This is a particularly effective combination since the purple flowers of a Siberian iris like ‘Caesar’s Brother’ appear while lady’s mantle has begun bearing its chartreuse flowers in June.

Speaking of flowers, lady’s mantle also produces billowing sprays of small chartreuse flowers from June to July. Chartreuse has been and continues to be a very popular color in and out of the garden. Light colored flowers like these are especially bright in shady gardens. There are several other late spring and early summer bloomers available for creating a riot of early season color. Besides the Siberian iris mentioned above, many astilbes, perennial geraniums, campanulas, and coral bells would make great flowering companions. That said, companions are not mandatory; lady’s mantle has the merits to exist all by itself as a border around shrubs or a perennial garden. It may also be planted more densely and used as a groundcover.

Walters GardensLady’s mantle is versatile and easy to grow, preferring moist soil. This is often created when amending clay soils with organic soil amendments such as sphagnum peat moss, aged pine bark, or compost. It prefers part sun or part shade, but will also grow well in full shade and even full sun if it is not allowed to dry out. This plant can grow almost anywhere! Plants typically form mounds 12 to 18 inches tall which should be spaced about 18 to 24 inches apart. If plants are allowed to dry out or if growth becomes too leggy, the leaves may be cut back a few inches above the soil. New leaves will emerge, and in two to three weeks, a beautiful mass of lush foliage will reappear.

The flowers of lady’s mantle make great cut flowers that may also be dried for floral arrangements. Just like the garden, the chartreuse blossoms are stunning when combined with colors such as blue, violet, or rose.

I have always felt that this plant is terribly underused in American gardens. Its combination of beautiful foliage and flowers are often overlooked. In the gardens of England, where plants bearing mediocre foliage are rarely tolerated, this plant is quite popular. Try one in the sun or the shade. Plant it in combinations or as a border. Just add water and enjoy the sparkling and shimmering of your lady’s mantle.

George Papadelis is the owner of Telly’s Greenhouse in Troy, MI.

At a glance: Lady’s mantle

Botanical name: Alchemilla mollis (al-keh-MILL-uh MOLL-is)

Plant type: Perennial

Plant size: 12-24 inches tall, 18-24 inches wide

Habit: Mounding

Hardiness: Zone 4

Flower color: Chartreuse

Flower size: Clusters of tiny flowers

Bloom period: June-July

Leaf color: Olive green

Leaf size: 4 inches wide

Light: Shade to sun; provide plenty of moisture if in sun

Soil: Well-drained, prefers moist soil

Uses: Specimen perennial; shade plant combinations; edging plant

Companion plants: Hostas, ferns, iris, coral bells, astilbe, many other shade plants

Remarks: Water beads on the leaves for an amazing sparkle effect; leaves have a silky texture; beautiful foliage and flowers; can self-seed in the garden