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Muscari botryoides ‘Album’ www.johnscheepers.com
Muscari comosumby George Papadelis

In the spring, when tulips, daffodils, and hyacinths are in full bloom, you may be wishing you had planted some the previous fall. Spring-blooming bulbs should be planted in fall when the bulbs are dormant and readily available. Grape hyacinth (Muscari) is one of the most perennial and versatile bulbs available. Its small flowers are usually blue and somewhat resemble clusters of grapes. Planting some this fall will promise to bring masses of effortless flowers for years to come.

Many perennial bulbs last only for a few years. Several of the most common tulips, for example, will only create showy flowers for a year or two. In contrast, grape hyacinths are very long lasting. One mature bulb will create several flower stalks the following spring. By the second year, the bulbs will have begun to create smaller bulblets that are likely to produce even more flowers the following spring. One bulb can create a small colony in just a few years. Dividing colonies into individual bulbs in the late fall will allow each bulblet to mature into a strong bulb capable of producing more and more bulbs. Therefore, just a few grape hyacinths can grow to become masses of spring flowers for the landscape. Plants that naturally grow into large masses are often referred to as good naturalizers. Grape hyacinths are excellent naturalizers and they are deer and rabbit resistant.

Grape hyacinths will grow in almost any type of soil, but good drainage and plenty of organic matter are best. Soil can be improved by incorporating organic amendments such as peat moss, compost, manure, or aged pine bark deep into the existing soil. Remember that the roots develop below the bulb, so it is important that the soil there is well prepared. Be sure to incorporate bulb fertilizers when planting. These contain both nitrogen and phosphorus, which are important for good root development. Grape hyacinths should be planted about 4 or 5 inches deep while many other bulbs such as tulips and daffodils should be planted at least 6 inches (follow the planting depth instructions for individual selections).

www.dutchgardens.com
Muscari latifoliumPlant grape hyacinths in full or partial sun. Shade from deciduous trees is also acceptable since the leaves from these trees will have fallen when the fall foliage of grape hyacinths is photosynthesizing. Yes, fall foliage. Grape hyacinths produce their leaves in fall. The narrow green fall leaves gather energy from the sun and store it in the bulb until spring when the flowers emerge with yet more leaves. The fall leaves can be used to locate your grape hyacinths and they may also be used to “mark” other bulbs that you may have planted with them. Unlike daffodils, tulips, and many other bulbs, the spent plants only leave behind narrow green inconspicuous leaves after blooming. Both tulips and daffodils leave large leaves for several weeks after blooming.

Spring-blooming bulbs are among the earliest spring-blooming perennials. Crocus and snowdrops may bloom as early as March when only hellebores (Christmas rose or Lenten rose) could be in bloom. Grape hyacinths typically bloom late April to May and last for 3 to 4 weeks. Most grow about 6 inches tall and therefore make an excellent border to taller spring bulbs. They may also be combined with pansies, which are best planted in the fall as well. Many spring-blooming perennials such as creeping phlox, ajuga, rockcress (either Arabis or Aubrieta), or candytuft (Iberis) can be planted directly on top of grape hyacinth bulbs. Imagine a brilliant border of pink and white creeping phlox with blue grape hyacinths poking through. As with most bulbs, the more you plant in a mass, the more rewarding the spring display. These are some of the most economical bulbs you can buy, so plant at least 25 at a time.

A while ago, the only Muscari available was the common grape hyacinth. Today, over a dozen different varieties offer exciting variations. The common grape hyacinth (Muscari armeniacum) has lightly scented, royal blue flowers on plants 6 to 8 inches tall. Muscari armeniacum ‘Blue Spike’ only grows 5 to 6 inches tall and has double bright blue flowers. ‘Valerie Finnis’ and ‘Sky Blue’ both produce interesting sky blue flowers. For a showy white, Muscari botryoides ‘Album’ is the most popular, bearing flowers about 6 to 8 inches tall. 

www.johnscheepers.com
Muscari macrocarpum ‘Golden Fragrance’The following varieties are quite different from the common grape hyacinth in flower form and/or color. The species Muscari comosum has airy, lavender flowers on wiry stems that somewhat resemble those of the onion family (the genus Allium). For a yellow variety, try Muscari macrocarpum whose bright yellow, almost banana-shaped flowers are also quite fragrant. The species Muscari latifolium produces purple blue bells on the bottom of the flower spike and soft blue bells on the top. It is also one of the tallest varieties at 12 to 15 inches. Muscari plumosum is also up to a foot tall and produces unique, feathery lavender flowers. Some of these might be more difficult to find but are certainly worth the effort.

For those of you who don’t get around to planting bulbs in fall, there is some good news on the horizon. Since most gardeners do their plant shopping in the spring, a few garden centers have realized that there is a market for interesting spring-blooming bulbs at that time. These garden centers are successfully selling blooming tulips, daffodils, alliums, hyacinths, grape hyacinths, crocus, and much more in small pots. They can be stuffed into spring-blooming containers, set on a coffee table, or just planted in flower beds. Regardless of how you use them, I think this is a great way to offer bulbs.

There are two common complaints when it comes to spring-blooming bulbs. Some only bloom for a year or two and some become rabbit food shortly after planting. Grape hyacinths are an excellent example of a bulb that does not have these shortcomings. They will grow almost anywhere there is a little sunlight, they will bloom for years and years, and they require minimal effort once they are planted. Don’t wait until spring to realize that you forgot to plant some of these little gems this fall.

George Papadelis is the owner of Telly’s Greenhouse in Troy, MI.

www.johnscheepers.com
Muscari armeniacum ‘Saffier’

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At a glance: Grape hyacinth

 

Botanical name: Muscari (muss-KAR-ee)

Plant type: Bulb

Plant size: 6-15 inches tall and wide

Habit: Clump-forming

Hardiness: Most are zone 4

Flower color: Many shades of blue, from light to deep blue; white

Flower size: 1- to 3-inch long clusters

Bloom period: Late April to May

Light: Sun to part sun

Soil: Well-drained; prefers fertile soil

Uses: Under deciduous trees; front of flower beds and perennial borders

Companion plants: Early-blooming perennials such as creeping phlox, ajuga, rockcress (Arabis or Aubrieta), or candytuft. Also pansies.

Remarks: Leaves emerge in the fall, followed by flowers and more leaves in the spring. Can be planted in the shade of deciduous trees since that area will typically be sunny during bulb growth period. Plant in masses for best impact.

www.whiteflowerfarm.com
Anemone x hybrida ‘Alba’by George Papadelis

As fall approaches, more and more flower gardens find themselves losing their claim to brilliant color and graceful form. These qualities are inevitably exchanged for spent flower stems and tired foliage that is typical of the season’s end. Although there are many fall-blooming plants available, most remain severely underused; far fewer gardeners visit garden centers in the fall, and those that do rarely make it past the mums, pansies, and spring-blooming bulbs. Upon further examination, fall shoppers might also come across some other great performers. Japanese anemone (Anemone x hybrida) is one of the most rewarding late season plants available.

Several different types of anemones exist. Of these, the fall-blooming types play the most vital role in the garden. Flowering begins in August and may continue through mid-October. Just when many other summer bloomers have finished their show, the pink, rose, or white flowers of anemones burst into color above bold, textured leaves. Dozens of 2- to 4-inch wide flowers are produced on plants that may grow 2 to 4 feet tall. Flowers may be single or double and resemble those of Cosmos or Helleborus (lenten rose). Delicate petals radiate from a central green “button” on which showy yellow stamens are displayed. These clean, spring-like flowers may last 8 to 10 weeks in the garden, but may also be cut for a late season bouquet. Anemone flowers are produced on long stems that dance in the wind and thus provide graceful movement in your fall landscape. 

www.whiteflowerfarm.com
Anemone x hybrida ‘Margarete’The term “Japanese anemone” usually refers to three similar groups (species) of plants. The first is Anemone hupehensis which produces rose pink flowers earlier in August than most Japanese anemones. They also exhibit better heat and drought tolerance. Try the variety A. hupehensis ‘Prince Henry’ for deep rose, semi-double flowers on a compact, 2-foot tall plant. 

The second group, Anemone vitifolia, is often represented by the variety ‘Robustissima.’ As the name implies, this one is a robust-growing plant between 3 and 4 feet tall when in flower. Blooms are bright pink and often begin flowering in late August or early September. The large, deeply veined leaves bear a distinct woolly gray underneath. Of the fall-blooming anemones, this one is also the least likely to suffer from any type of winter injury. 

The third and largest group, Anemone x hybrida, is actually a cross (hybrid) between the previous two species. Anemone x hybrida includes many single and double varieties that vary in color from the purest white to nearly red. The most popular of these is ‘Honorine Jobert.’ It produces clusters of glowing white, single flowers above 3-foot tall plants. Anyone with a garden dedicated to white cannot afford to ignore ‘Honorine Jobert.’ A double-flowering white form called ‘Whirlwind’ is also very popular. For a wonderful pink, try ‘Queen Charlotte’ with 3-inch, semi-double flowers on 3-foot tall plants. For a single pink, try ‘September Charm,’ which only grows to about 2-1/2 feet in height.

Japanese anemones will tolerate a wide range of exposures from full sun to moderate shade. More sun will ensure the most flowers and aid the plant in maintaining an erect growth habit that rarely requires staking. In shade, the plants tend to lean towards the sun. Japanese anemones are not particular about soil, but will perform best in moist, fertile loam. They benefit from a loose mulch to help keep roots cool and moist.

In loose soil, Japanese anemones can become invasive. Depending on your situation, this can be a concern or it can make them a wonderful tall groundcover for planting in a naturalized area. Plants that exceed their boundary may be divided in spring. These new plants may require a year or two to reach flowering age. 

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Anemone x hybrida ‘Honorine Jobert’Many fall-blooming perennials are available for striking combinations with your Japanese anemone. In more shade, try bugbane (Actaea or Cimicifuga) for a graceful white combo. The orchid-like flowers of toadlily (Tricyrtis) along with the deep blue, delphinium-like flowers of monkshood (Aconitum napellus) could also work in the shade. For more sun, try the many colors of fall-blooming asters which range from 12 to 42 inches in height. Chrysanthemum ‘Clara Curtis’ has pink, daisy-like flowers from July through September. Perhaps try a narrow, upright clump of metallic-blue foliage from the ornamental switch grass Panicum ‘Heavy Metal.’ 

When the temperatures are cooler, gardening becomes even more enjoyable and plants better tolerate being moved. As fall approaches, take a moment to evaluate your landscape and see where color is needed. Japanese anemones can extend your garden’s performance well into the fall. These graceful, colorful flowers are difficult to replace in the late season garden and deserve a space in almost every landscape.

George Papadelis is the owner of Telly’s Greenhouse in Troy.

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At a glance: Japanese anemone

 

Botanical name: Anemone x hybrida (uh-NEM-oh-nee HI-brid-uh)

Plant type: Perennial

Plant size: 2-4 feet tall

Width: Spreading

Habit: Mounding, with erect flower stems

Hardiness: Zone 4

Flower color: White, pink, rose

Flower size: 2-4 inches across

Bloom period: Late summer and fall

Leaf color: Green

Leaf size: 4-8 inches long

Width: 3-5 inches

Light: Full sun to partial shade; flowering is best in full sun

Soil: Fertile, moist soil 

Uses: Perennial border, tall groundcover

Companion plants: Asters, monkshood (Aconitum), mums, ornamental grasses, toadlily (Tricyrtis)

Remarks: Will tolerate shade, but will tend to lean toward the sun. Due to its spreading habit, can be used as a groundcover.

George Papadelis
Hakonechloa macraTerra Nova Nurseries
‘All Gold’

by George Papadelis

Ornamental grasses have become increasingly popular. Few plant groups can provide winter interest, ease of care, versatility, and an enormous palette of various heights, colors, and flowers. When most people think of ornamental grasses, they imagine the classic sun-tolerant perennial species like maiden grass (Miscanthus), switch grass (Panicum), fountain grass (Pennisetum), or feather reed grass (Calamagrostis). However, many gardeners are not familiar with the more diminutive, shade-tolerant species. Lily turf (Liriope), sedge (Carex), and hakone grass (Hakonechloa) grow in shade or part shade and offer many of the same qualities as the traditional sun-loving grasses.

The Japanese native hakone grass has glossy, soft leaves that grow upright and then cascade or “waterfall” horizontally. This effect lends itself very well for use on slopes or as an edging plant. The slow-spreading clumps are not invasive. In fact, full pots of hakone grass can be difficult to find at your local garden center. High quality plants typically draw a premium price compared to other ornamental grasses. Young plants often disappoint the impatient gardener during the first season or so. However, two or three years in moist, well-drained, and fertile soil will yield lush mounds of beautiful leaves. Hakone grass turns pinkish-red each fall, then bronze, then tan during winter dormancy. The blowing, rustling leaves are pleasant all winter long until early spring when plants should be cut down to about an inch or two tall. The fresh foliage returns by late May.

Eric Hofley / Michigan Gardener
‘Aureola’ Hakonechloa has no major insect or disease problems that would warrant concern. In my yard, however, rabbits feast on the spring leaves and can delay the anticipated display of an established plant. The application of an effective animal repellent can solve that problem.

Four different types of hakone grass are available and all grow about 12 inches tall. In my opinion, the species Hakonechloa macra is very underused. It has shiny, bright green leaves that work well with almost any other foliage color or texture. The popular H. macra ‘Aureola’ has gold and green leaves that glow in the shade from spring until fall. The cultivar ‘All Gold’ clearly describes its primary attributes. ‘Albo-striata’ is rarely available but has green and white bicolored leaves.

All Hakonechloas bring a beautiful texture to the shady garden that looks best when contrasted with other foliage. Ferns have fine-textured leaves that look gorgeous up against the long, linear leaves of hakone grass. The large, bold leaves of hostas are equally excellent companions. Try a blue hosta with the gold leaves of either  ‘Aureola’ or ‘All Gold’ hakone grass. Or perhaps try gold hosta with the green leaves of H. macra. The popularity of lace-leaf, red Japanese maples gives many of us an opportunity to underplant with the vibrant leaves of a gold hakone grass.

Eric Hofley / Michigan Gardener
Hakone grass is a great perennial for the shade. Hakonechloa macra ‘Aureola’ is shown here with a hosta and variegated pachysandra.

Keep in mind that there are hundreds of flowering perennials for shade, many of which are underused. Foliage plants will usually create the foundation or backbone of the shady perennial bed. Like hostas and ferns, I can’t imagine a shady garden without hakone grass.

George Papadelis is the owner of Telly’s Greenhouse in Troy, MI.

 

Try this combination

One of the most beautiful (and useful) late summer-blooming perennials for shade is plumbago (Ceratostigma plumbaginoides). This slow-spreading groundcover is covered with fluorescent blue flowers from late July until fall on 8- to 10-inch tall plants. When temperatures drop in late September and October, the plants continue to flower but the leaves turn a lovely russet red. This plant is perfect alongside a mound of hakone grass.

At a glance: Hakone grass

Botanical name: Hakonechloa macra (ha-kone-ee-KLO-uh MAK-ruh)

Plant type: Perennial grass

Plant size: 12 inches tall, 12-18 inches wide

Habit: Layers of cascading foliage

Hardiness: Zone 5

Leaf color: Bright green or yellow; yellow, white, green variegations

Leaf size: 10 inches long, 1/2 inch wide

Light: Partial shade to shade

Soil: Moist, fertile, well-drained

Uses: Slopes, edging, shade garden, containers

Companion plants: Hostas, ferns, plumbago

Remarks: Pinkish red fall color, bronze color in winter. Cascading habit makes them great for slopes or edging. Takes 2 to 3 years to establish.

George Papadelis
Hakonechloa turns from pinkish-red to bronze, then finally to tan in the winter.

www.monrovia.com
‘Dark Knight’by George Papadelis

When fall approaches, many gardeners believe it’s time to hang up the trowel and bring an end to another growing season. Fall, however, offers us many opportunities to enhance our landscape. Most plants allocate their energy to developing strong root systems in the late season. This, along with the cooler, less stressful growing conditions, makes fall an ideal time to plant. Cooler weather also means more comfortable temperatures for garden “work.” The ever-expanding palette of late-season annuals like flowering kale, flowering cabbage, dianthus, dahlias, petunias, verbenas, and so many more are increasingly available to brighten flowerless voids and refurbish tired window boxes. Let’s not forget pansies and bulbs. Fall-planted pansies will often bloom until the holidays and then begin blooming again early next spring.

Jonathon Hofley / Michigan Gardener
‘Worcester Gold’Besides the popular garden mum, there is also an enormous selection of late-season perennials that are often underused. The list of shade lovers includes anemones, toad lilies (Tricyrtus), perennial lobelia, snakeroot (Actaea or Cimicifuga), yellow wax bells (Kirengeshoma), certain hostas, and many, many more. The list of late-season bloomers for sunny locations is even longer and includes blue mist spirea (Caryopteris), a reliable performer and a beautiful addition to the autumn landscape.

Most blue mist spireas grow about 2 to 3 feet tall and wide, and have powdery blue flowers. Tight, one-inch clusters of tiny blue flowers develop in profusion along woody stems. Flowering lasts from mid-August well into October. The fragrant foliage of the more common varieties is a silvery blue-green, but others may be gold or green and white variegated. They thrive in any well-drained soil and prefer full to part sun. They flower on new wood, so pruning the plant in early spring to about 6 inches should yield excellent results.

Most plants that are referred to as “perennials” have stems that die down to the ground every winter. Blue mist spirea, however, is like lavender, butterfly bush (Buddleia), roses, and Russian sage (Perovskia); it develops woody stems that, to at least some extent, stay alive through the winter. In a severe winter, these stems can suffer, but a few inches of soil mounded directly over the plant’s crown in late November will insulate it. This discourages severe temperature fluctuations and reduces damage from drying winds. In spring, simply remove the soil from the plant’s base. When the new growth becomes apparent, prune away the dead stems. Additional pruning may be necessary to shape the plant and/or control its size. This same technique works well for roses, butterfly bush, Russian sage, lavender, and other vulnerable woody plants.

Eric Hofley / Michigan Gardener
‘Dark Knight’Blue mist spirea is usually propagated by rooting soft tip cuttings. Some gardeners, however, will be rewarded with seedlings that develop at the base of the plant. Pollinated flowers will produce seed that is very viable but also variable. When these grow to a few inches tall, they can be transplanted to a permanent location and evaluated for potential future use.

Two readily available varieties are ‘Longwood Blue,’ with light blue flowers and gray-green leaves on plants that grow about 3 feet tall, and  ‘Dark Knight,’ which boasts similar but deeper blue flowers on slightly taller plants.

Jonathon Hofley / Michigan Gardener
‘Worcester Gold’For beautiful golden foliage, ‘Worcester Gold’ is wonderful from spring until fall. It also has blue flowers in August and September on 3-foot tall plants. A newer gold cultivar called ‘Sunshine Blue’ has even more intensely gold foliage on 3-foot tall plants. Its amethyst blue flowers in August and September glow against its attractive foliage.

‘Snow Fairy’ is the first variegated leaf selection. It has brightly variegated green and white foliage that alone warrants the use of this plant. It produces clear blue flowers, and grows taller, to about 4 feet. Two new blue varieties include ‘Grand Blue,’ with dark blue flowers above dark green leaves on plants that only grow 2 feet tall and wide, and ‘First Choice,’ which produces rich, cobalt blue flowers on a more freely branching, compact plant that is just less than 3 feet tall.

Companion plants

www.parkseed.com
‘Longwood Blue’The flowers of blue mist spirea make a wonderful companion to other late season perennials and annuals. Most ornamental grasses are at their peak in September and may offer a perfect backdrop. Switch grass (Panicum) has erect, green to blue-gray stems and leaves topped by sprays of burnished bronze seedpods. Several varieties offer heights ranging from 3 to 7 feet tall, but ‘Shenandoah’ or ‘Heavy Metal’ would be the best Caryopteris partners. Shorter maiden grass (Miscanthus) like ‘Adagio’ and ‘Little Nicky’ offer silvery or pink flower plumes that blow in the wind. Feather reed grass (Calamagrostis) like ‘Karl Foerster’ offers stiff, wheat-colored plumes in June that last for almost a year on 4- to 5-foot tall plants. Fountain grass (Pennisetum) grows about 3 feet tall and produces fluffy, bottlebrush flowers of burgundy, beige, or black. All of these ornamental grasses are outstanding perennials to grow with a blue mist spirea. More importantly, each fall, ornamental grasses leave behind beautiful faded plants that last throughout the winter. These tan mounds of leaves and flowers provide even more interest when sprinkled with fresh snow or covered in glistening ice.

For a flowering blue mist spirea companion, you have many choices. Mums and fall-blooming asters come in an enormous color range and grow as low as 12 inches to as tall as 3 or 4 feet. The gold to orange flowers of Helen’s flower (Helenium) stand atop erect plants growing 3 to 4 feet tall. The goldenrod (Solidago) cultivar ‘Fireworks’ offers airy sprays of tiny yellow flowers that last throughout September. Windflower (Anemone) will thrive in sun or shade and produces masses of pink or white flowers to accent your blue mist spirea blooms.

Autumn is a great opportunity to spruce up flowerbeds and begin planning for next year’s garden. Plant some spring-blooming bulbs, think about trying some pansies, and don’t forget those mums. With these and the myriad of fall bloomers, all of us should have a spectacular September garden. A plant like blue mist spirea adds some excitement to our palette of late-season choices.

George Papadelis is the owner of Telly’s Greenhouse in Troy, MI.

 

At a glance: Blue mist spirea, bluebeard

Botanical name: Caryopteris (ca-ree-OP-tur-iss)

Plant type:Perennial

Plant size:2-4 feet tall and wide

Habit:Rounded bush

Hardiness:Zone 5

Flower color:Various shades of blue, from light to dark

Flower size:1-inch clusters

Bloom period:Late summer to fall

Leaf color:Gray-green, gold, white & green variegated

Light:Sun to partial sun

Soil:Well-drained

Uses:Perennial border

Companion plants:Medium-sized ornamental grasses, late-blooming perennials such as Helen’s flower, goldenrod, windflowers 

Remarks:Stems dieback depending on the severity of the winter (similar to Russian sage and butterfly bush). Blooms on new wood, so prune in early spring.

The Flower Fields
‘Carita Deep Pink’

by George Papadelis

Angelonia is one of the most versatile plants available to today’s savvy gardener. When planted in the sun it blooms effortlessly all summer long and can be used a number of different ways.

The common name for angelonia is summer snapdragon, but most gardeners are comfortable with the scientific name. The individual flowers actually look more like tiny orchids than snapdragons, but they develop on long stems just like snapdragons. Unlike snapdragons, however, angelonia performs beautifully in the summer heat. Removing the spent blooms will promote additional flowers but is not necessary. Simply plant in rich, well-drained soil with some sun (at least 6 hours) and fertilize every few weeks. Angelonia will do the rest.

Varieties are available in about 5 colors that include shades of white, pink, blue, purple, and a unique purple and white bicolor. Most varieties are upright growers that reach a height of 12 to 18 inches. These are by far the most popular and versatile cultivars. Their stiff stems are strong enough to prominently support the beautiful flowers in severe rain, but also pliable enough to sway in the wind without ever breaking. The three most common series are the Angelface, Carita, and AngelMist.

Proven Winners
‘Angelface White’There are also cultivars that were bred for a cascading habit. These can be used by themselves in hanging baskets or they may be incorporated into mixed planters as a trailing accent. The AngelMist series offers Basket Purple and Basket White. The Carita series offers Cascade Deep Pink, Cascade White, and Cascade Deep Purple. These perform just as effortlessly as the upright cultivars but are used in a different way.

As far as the uprights go, they are extremely versatile. I have seen mass plantings of angelonia that look just as gorgeous up close as they do from a hundred feet away. A sea of vibrant, orchid-like flowers clustered on upright stems can be stunning. Angelonia can also be used as an annual border plant. Use them just as you would medium height snapdragons, but with a more limited color range and superior performance.

They may also serve as an upright element in the center of a combination planter; it’s far more interesting than a spike. For example, a white angelonia can certainly be used with a red geranium. Better yet, try the white angelonia with a rose-colored geranium and a trailing blue fan flower (Scaevola). Maybe even add some trailing silver from a lotus vine or a lamium. The blue angelonia looks great with pinks, whites, and a splash of silver or dark foliage.

Now here’s an added bonus: For you perennial purists who are open-minded enough to have read this far, angelonia could be your best friend. Since it is underused and has a perennial-like appearance, it can serve as a graceful, perennial border filler with easy flowers from spring until fall. Other exceptional annuals for the sunny perennial border include tobacco flower (Nicotiana) , Amaranthus, the tall ageratum ‘Blue Horizon,’ tall verbena (Verbena bonariensis), spider flower (Cleome), and many more. As the lines between annuals, perennials, and tropicals continue to blur in American gardens, angelonia will become more and more popular.

George Papadelis is the owner of Telly’s Greenhouse in Troy, MI.

 

Simply Beautiful
‘AngelMist Basket Purple’

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Angelonia pricing 

Angelonia plants available prior to 2006 were grown from cuttings. Plants propagated from cuttings are more expensive to grow and are usually offered in pots (as opposed to flats) that are sold at a higher price, which makes them economically impractical for mass plantings. In contrast, seed-grown annuals are usually offered in flats (as opposed to pots) that are sold at a much lower price per plant. As such, seed-grown annuals are more economical for larger plantings.

The good news is that a seed company started offering angelonia from seed during the 2006 season. The series is called Serena and it comes in four colors (lavender, lavender pink, purple and white) and a mixture. They are only 12 inches tall and grow about 12 inches wide. This means that you will be able to buy a flat of beautiful angelonias and use them for a reasonably-priced mass planting. As you can see, plant breeders have recognized the value and potential popularity of angelonia. They continue to dedicate themselves to broadening the uses and color range, so keep an eye out for exciting future introductions.

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At a glance: Angelonia

Common name: Summer snapdragon

Botanical name: Angelonia (an-jeh-LOW-nee-uh)

Plant type: Annual

Plant size: 12-18 inches tall

Habit: Upright; some varieties are cascading

Flower color: White, pink, blue, purple, purple & white bicolor

Flower size: 3/4 inch wide

Bloom period: Summer

Light: Sun

Soil: Fertile, well-drained

Uses: Annual, filling in gaps in the perennial border, containers (both upright & cascading varieties)

Remarks: Does well in the heat of summer

K. Van Bourgondien & Sons / 800-622-9997
Phlox subulata

by George Papadelis

We’ve all seen it: that glowing mound of flowers that catches your eye each spring. It’s impossible to miss an established planting of creeping phlox, even when driving 40 miles per hour.

Creeping phlox is the name often used to describe several species within the huge genus Phlox, which includes perennials such as the tall garden phlox (Phlox paniculata and Phlox maculata) and the annual phlox (Phlox drummondii). Few perennials, however, can produce flowers as densely and reliably as creeping phlox.

There are several species of phlox that are low growing. The most popular is Phlox subulata which bears the common name moss phlox or creeping phlox. This easy to grow plant thrives in sun and is not particular about its soil, although good drainage is preferable. The small, starry flowers come in many colors and the fine foliage can be dense or airy depending on the cultivar. Spring temperatures determine whether your phlox will bloom in late April or as late as mid May. Flowering only lasts for about 3 to 4 weeks. Most grow 4 to 6 inches tall and stay extra compact, especially if lightly sheared after blooming. They can spread up to 2 or more feet wide in just a few years.

Phlox subulata is native to the eastern United States but is hardy enough to withstand much colder climates. Pest and disease problems are rare. This is part of the reason that moss phlox is one of the most popular rock garden plants. It is also used in troughs, as an edging plant, in wall gardens, and in the perennial border. It doesn’t grow from seed, but mature plants can be divided after they flower.

The two most popular varieties of Phlox subulata are the blue ‘Emerald Blue’ and the pink ‘Emerald Pink,’ due to their bright, clean flowers and their dense, low leaves. ‘White Delight’ is the most popular white and ‘Atropurpurea’ is the most popular red. For interesting bicolored flowers, try ‘Millstream Coral Eye.’ It is pure white with a crimson eye. ‘Millstream Daphne’ is clear pink with a darker rose eye. One of the most striking cultivars is ‘Candy Stripes,’ with a distinctly star-shaped pattern.

There are many early-blooming plants that make wonderful partners for moss phlox. As far as bedding plants are concerned, pansies are certainly the most diverse and dependable phlox companions. They come in an almost infinite range of colors and color combinations, and they will tolerate the occasional frosts and freezes of early spring. Early-blooming perennial companions include bugleweed (Ajuga), pasque flower (Pulsatilla vulgaris), and a very broad range of bulbs. Blue or pink moss phlox underneath the blooms of yellow daffodils makes an impressive combination.

Phlox douglasii is another available species that is also called moss phlox and grows almost exactly like Phlox subulata. Phlox douglasii is even shorter, rarely growing over 4 inches tall. Only a few cultivars exist, but ‘Crackerjack’ has near red flowers and ‘Rose Cushion’ has delicate, soft baby pink flowers that are very unusual. They only grow 10 to 12 inches wide, making them even better for smaller crevices or troughs. These varieties also benefit from shearing after blooming.

For shade or partial shade, we have Phlox stolonifera, commonly known as creeping phlox. This was the very first plant chosen to be the Perennial Plant of the Year by the Perennial Plant Association back in 1990. Its low, spreading stems are adorned with leathery, almost round leaves. The stems are referred to as stolons since they will root at the stem nodes and tips. Stem tips will turn upright and produce clusters of sweetly fragrant flowers in May. Plants will grow 6 to 12 inches tall and spread indefinitely to form a groundcover.

Phlox stolonifera makes a great companion for spring-blooming shade plants such as primrose, lungwort (Pulmonaria), foamflower (Tiarella), and shade-tolerant bulbs such as scilla and daffodils. Selections include the white ‘Bruce’s White,’ the pink ‘Pink Ridge,’ the blue ‘Blue Ridge,’ and the purple ‘Sherwood Purple.’ These, like Phlox subulata and Phlox douglasii, are best propagated by division. Also, rooted stolons (stems) can be separated from the main plant and grown on their own.

All of these phlox are very easy to grow. Their dense flowers, reliability, and ease of cultivation make them valuable perennials. Try some and you too could have a carpet of traffic-stopping blooms in your spring garden.

George Papadelis is the owner of Telly’s Greenhouse in Troy, MI.

 

At a glance: Creeping Phlox

Phlox stolonifera (floks sto-lo-NI-fer-a)
Phlox subulata (floks sub-ew-LAH-ta)

Common name: Creeping phlox, moss phlox

Plant type: Perennial

Plant size: 4-12 inches tall

Habit: Creeping groundcover

Hardiness: Zone 2

Flower color: Wide variety: lilac, pale blue, mauve, pink (many shades), white, red

Bloom period: April-May

Light: P. stolonifera: partial shade to shade / P. subulata: sun

Soil: P. stolonifera: rich, moist, well-drained / P. subulata: well-drained

Uses: Evergreen groundcover, edging, woodland garden, rock garden

Companion plants: P. stolonifera: early spring-blooming bulbs and perennials for shade, such as lungwort (Pulmonaria), foamflower (Tiarella), scilla, many others. P. subulata: early spring-blooming bulbs and perennials for sun, such as pansies, ajuga, daffodils, many others.

Remarks: Keep P. stolonifera out of full sun. P. subulata is drought-tolerant once established.

Terra Nova Nurseries
‘Jack Frost’By George Papadelis

Eric Hofley / Michigan Gardener
Brunnera and ferns make great companions in the shade garden.Brunnera (Brunnera macrophylla) is an outstanding perennial for the shade garden. Its common names are Siberian bugloss, heart-leaf brunnera and perennial forget-me-not. The word “perennial” is important to note here because there is another forget-me-not that is not a true perennial. Myosotis is the biennial forget-me-not. Its flowers are usually soft blue in spring on plants only about 6 to 8 inches tall. After flowering, that forget-me-not will usually die, but only after it drops seeds everywhere. The seeds will usually grow and form plants that will bloom the following spring. Brunnera macrophylla, the perennial forget-me-not, will last for years and years, promising beautiful flowers and foliage season after season.

Brunnera produces clouds of baby blue flowers each May. Each flower only measures about 1/4 inch across and has a tiny white eye in the center. The flowers rest above furry green, heart-shaped leaves measuring up to 8 inches across. As the flowers fade, the leaves grow larger and form attractive rounded mounds that grow about 12 to 15 inches tall and spread 24 inches wide.

Jonathon Hofley / Michigan Gardener
Brunnera has small, delicate blue flowers in May.Several years ago, a variegated version of Brunnera came along. The wide white edge of Brunnera macrophylla ‘Variegata’ made this plant a collector’s item almost immediately. This mound of striking foliage looks exceptionally attractive when topped by the baby blue flowers. After the spring blooms, the foliage flourishes and persists until late in fall.

A less common cultivar called ‘Dawson’s White’ has similar bicolored leaves with a slightly more creamy margin. ‘Hadspen Cream’ has lighter green leaves with creamy white edges. Another interesting variety called ‘Langtrees’ has dark green leaves with silver spots along the border. All this foliage looks wonderful when contrasted with fine-textured leaves (such as sedges, astilbes, and ferns) or sword-like leaves (like Siberian iris).

There is also a beautiful silver-leaved version of the perennial forget-me-not called ‘Jack Frost.’ The green-veined leaves are very unusual and provide an excellent source of silver in the shade garden. A newer variety called ‘Looking Glass’ has even less pronounced green veins and slightly cupped leaves.

Terra Nova Nurseries
‘Looking Glass’Only a few perennials such as dead nettle (Lamium), Japanese painted fern, and lungwort can provide silver in the shade. Try these silver leaves against a big blue hosta, a bright green maidenhair fern, a black-leaved snakeroot (Cimicifuga ramosa ‘Hillside Black Beauty’), or a purple-leaved coral bells (Heuchera). Even without flowers, the leaves of the silver-leaved brunnera will steal the show.

The perennial forget-me-not will thrive in moist soil and should have less than about six hours of sun, preferably in the morning. Soil that is filled with moisture-stealing tree roots will probably prove to be too dry. Amend sandy or clay soil with organic matter such as aged pine bark, compost, or peat moss. Trim back the dead leaves in fall, and await the showy spring blooms. No matter how you use it, the perennial forget-me-not is a shade garden favorite with its excellent foliage and showy flowers.

George Papadelis is the owner of Telly’s Greenhouse in Troy, MI.

At a Glance: Brunnera

Eric Hofley / Michigan Gardener
‘Variegata’Common names: Siberian bugloss, heart-leaf brunnera, perennial forget-me-not

Botanical name: Brunnera macrophylla (BRUN-er-uh mak-ro-FY-luh)

Plant type: Perennial

Plant size: 12-15 inches tall, 24 inches wide

Habit: Mounding

Hardiness: Zone 3

Flower color: Light blue

Flower size: 1/4 inch wide

Bloom period: May

Leaf color: Green, variegated (green/white, green/cream), silver

Leaf size: Heart-shaped, up to 8 inches wide

Light: Part shade to shade

Soil: Moist, well-drained

Companion plants: Hostas, ferns, sedges, snakeroot, coral bells

Remarks: Great foliage plant for the shade garden. Should have ample moisture and not too much sun—otherwise, on the variegated brunneras, the lighter leaf edges can scorch and turn brown.

by George Papadelis

For hundreds of years, this plant and its name have been used to symbolize purity, simplicity, elegance, and beauty. The name trillium has graced the marquees of restaurants, country clubs, resorts, software companies, consulting firms, and numerous other businesses. Every spring, many Americans journey into the woods to admire the showiest of our spring woodland flowers.

In Ohio, where all 88 counties have masses of wild trillium, it was selected as the state’s official wildflower. Its flowers have twice graced a U.S. postage stamp. Even our Canadian friends across the bridge have declared white trillium (Trillium grandiflorum) the official provincial flower of Ontario. Other parts of the world share our passionate admiration for this plant. In Europe, where trilliums are not found in nature, gardeners dedicate vast amounts of time and money acquiring them, especially rare species. In Japan, a cult-like interest has developed towards trillium.

Jonathon Hofley / Michigan Gardener
Trillium erectum

Trillium species and growing conditions

The most readily available species is Trillium grandiflorum or white wake-robin. This has large, pure white flowers up to 5 inches across. These develop in great abundance throughout the northeastern U.S. Its flowers usually fade to a dull pink and sometimes red. Trillium erectum is a much more diverse species with flowers ranging from red to purple to yellow-green and beige. It also grows wild in the Northeast and Michigan. Trillium luteum is the most common yellow species. It originates from areas around eastern Tennessee. One of its most notable features is the beautiful dark green leaves decorated with pale green markings. The flowers are relatively small. Trillium recurvatum bears maroon-purple to clear yellow flowers with strongly curved petals. Several other species and a few named varieties are readily available. Most trillium grow about 12 to 18 inches tall once established in the garden.

Trilliums are North American and Asian natives that typically thrive in moist, woodland settings where rich, acidic soil is prevalent. Gardeners with some shade can create this type of soil by incorporating organic soil amendments such as aged pine bark, sphagnum peat moss, leaf mold, composted manure, or compost. During dry spells, plants may require some supplemental watering.

Trilliums typically bloom in late April or early May when dozens of perennials and bulbs are available as companions. Several spring-flowering bulbs will tolerate shade, and a few flower at the same time as trilliums. Try trilliums with daffodils, tulips, Siberian squill, grape hyacinths, summer snowflakes, glory-of-the-snow, and Anemone blanda. Pansies and violas planted the previous fall or in early spring will offer the largest color range to coordinate with your trillium flowers. Early May-blooming perennials for shade include Anemone sylvestris, foamflower (Tiarella), fern-leaf bleeding heart, leopard’s bane, and the beautiful blue-flowering perennial forget-me-not (Brunnera macrophylla). Several other woodland plants such as woodland phlox (Phlox stolonifera) and yellow dogtooth violets (Erythronium canadensis) should also be at peak bloom.

How trilliums grow

As gardeners, many of us have developed questions about growing this somewhat mystical plant. It doesn’t help that the typical nursery only sells tiny, flowerless plants that show little promise of ever coming to fruition. Perhaps the most important aspect of appreciating this plant can be expressed in one word: patience. The small plants available through nurseries are much more durable than they appear. Most species will eventually develop into clumps of flowers that are quite persistent even in less than perfect conditions. This clumping process often takes 2 to 4 years. At least it’s faster than growing them from seed. If the seed germinates, it may take as long as 10 years to bloom.

Another perplexing aspect of growing trilliums is the short period of time plants are visible in the garden. The “root” of a trillium is really a sort of underground stem called a rhizome. This rhizome stores food all winter until temperatures rise in spring. In early May, the rhizome sends up branches that typically support three leaves and a single three-petal flower. The short time during which leaves are present is the plant’s only chance to gather energy from the sun. Therefore, picking trillium flowers and leaves will diminish the plant’s ability to produce food. It won’t kill a healthy plant, but frequent picking will eventually reduce flowering. The number of flowering branches depends on the age of the plant, the size of the rhizome, and the overall energy stored in the rhizome.

Next comes the strange part. Just a few weeks after blooming, the branch and leaves wither away with no visible signs of life. The rejuvenated rhizome will await winter dormancy, which is mandatory for next year’s bloom production. Many woodland plants and spring-blooming bulbs (i.e. tulips, daffodils, crocus, etc.) enter an early-summer dormancy. These plants, like trilliums, are described as spring ephemerals. If you are thinking of shopping for a potted trillium in summer or fall, visually evaluating a plant’s vigor is almost impossible. However, a gentle probing of the soil to locate a firm, sleeping rhizome should do the trick.

Finding and purchasing trilliums

Some trillium species are considered threatened or endangered. These trillium cannot be collected from the wild under any circumstances. All other trillium in Michigan are protected as follows: The only way these can be collected is by owning the land from which they are harvested, acquiring a permit to collect them from the Department of Natural Resources, or by acquiring a bill of sale from the property owner. All trillium located in National Forests are also not collectible.

Jonathon Hofley / Michigan Gardener
Trillium grandiflorumSince it is legal to collect unthreatened and unendangered trillium that are located on your own land, “nurseries” can own land from which they may legally collect wild trillium. Fortunately, responsible commercial collection of trillium has had little effect on most species. Most trillium have developed stable masses in their natural habitats, and more and more nurseries are offering wildflowers that are propagated on site. As gardeners and stewards of our environment, we should seek out these sources and avoid plants that are illegally collected.

The biggest two concerns for the sustenance of trillium populations are animal grazing and urban development. Repeated grazing from deer can eventually weaken plants and wipe out large areas. In regions where deer populations have increased, trilliums have often disappeared. A deer repellent would be a wise investment if deer browse in your trillium bed. In cases where a plant’s habitat is limited, populations are also suffering from commercial development. Clear cut lumbering and urban sprawl have an enormous impact on all wildflowers. In cases where development is unavoidable, the proper agencies should be contacted to save important plants. A great source of trillium is one that has a permit to rescue plants that would otherwise fall victim to bulldozers.

Trillium are available from many garden centers as spring-flowering plants in small containers. These can be treated just like any other perennial. More and more retailers are selling them packed in plastic bags with some peat moss. Make sure the rhizomes are firm and try to plant them before the leaves emerge. Bury rhizomes horizontally about 2 to 4 inches deep in the moist, rich soil that most woodland wildflowers love.

Remember to be patient—good things come to those who wait. In time, your little plant should form colonies that you and your garden’s admirers will enjoy for years to come.

George Papadelis is the owner of Telly’s Greenhouse in Troy, MI. Fred Case and Tony Reznicek also contributed to this article. A portion of this article was excerpted from the book “Trilliums” by Fred Case and Roberta Case, published by Timber Press.

At a glance: Trillium (TRILL-ee-um)

Plant type: Perennial

Plant size: Most are 12-18 inches tall and 12 inches wide

Habit: Clump-forming

Hardiness: Most are zone 4 or 5

Flower color: White, red, pink, yellow

Flower size: Up to 3 inches wide

Bloom period: Late April to early May

Leaf color: Green, sometimes mottled with pale green, dark green, or maroon

Leaf size: Up to 8 inches long and up to 6 inches wide

Light: Dappled shade to shade

Soil: Moist but well-drained, rich in organic matter

Uses: Woodland garden, shady border

Companion plants: Spring-flowering bulbs (daffodils, tulips, grape hyacinths, etc.); spring-flowering perennials (foamflower, fern-leaf bleeding heart, perennial forget-me-not, woodland phlox, etc.)

Remarks: Patience is a must—trilliums take time to become established; the plants go dormant in summer (stems and leaves naturally wither away)

by George Papadelis

www.bulb.com
Chionodoxa luciliaeAs spring approaches, gardeners seek the familiar signs of yet another growing season. Even before trees produce their leaves and the spring equinox arrives, the garden can be alive with color from early blooming bulbs. In February, some warming can bring up an occasional flower or two, but by March, color is almost guaranteed through the planting of crocus, snowdrops (Galanthus), or glory-of-the-show (Chionodoxa).

By late March (sometimes early April), glory-of-the-snow produces 6 to 10 one-inch wide, single flowers that last 3 to 4 weeks. Besides their vibrant color, these starry flowers are unique in that each blossom has a distinct white center. The species Chionodoxa forbesii (formerly C. luciliae) has glowing blue flowers, while the variety ‘Pink Giant’ has rosy-pink blooms. Both grow 6 to 10 inches tall. Since the flowers are small, a planting of 20 to 50 bulbs would provide the best show. This is also economically practical since the bulbs are usually inexpensive.

www.bulb.com
Chionodoxa gigantea Glory-of-the-snow is very easy to grow and amongst the hardiest of all bulbs. Only well-drained soil and some sun are required for good performance. Bulbs should be planted with bulb fertilizer in the fall about 3 inches deep and 3 to 4 inches apart. Glory-of-the-snow self-sows and divides itself very freely to form self-sustaining clumps that may last effortlessly for years. However, best results occur if the younger bulbs or “offsets” are dug up in May and replanted with fresh soil, fertilizer, and adequate space. 

The only pest problem may be a hungry squirrel looking for a freshly planted snack. If this is a threat in your garden, some chicken wire buried above the bulbs usually does the trick.

Plant glory-of-the-snow in clumps around trees, in the rock garden, or even in your lawn. It works wonderfully alone or in combination with other spring-blooming bulbs. Later-blooming bulbs such as tulips can also be placed in the same planting hole since they require deeper planting depths of 6 to 10 inches. Glory-of-the-snow thrives in woodland situations if tree leaves are shredded, mulched, or raked off to assist them in spring emergence.

www.waysidegardens.com
Chionodoxa ‘Pink Giant’ This tiny spring treasure is a must for any garden because of its versatility, performance, and durability. Try it almost anywhere! Just a few minutes of digging in the fall will allow glory-of-the-snow to grace you with its presence for many years to come.

George Papadelis is the owner of Telly’s Greenhouse in Troy, MI.

At a glance: Glory-of-the-snow 

Botanical Name: Chionodoxa (ky-on-oh-DOK-suh)

Plant Type: Bulb

Plant Size: 5-10 inches tall

Flower Color: Rich blue with white centers (most common); also pink, white

Flower Size: 1 inch wide

Bloom Period: Late March – Early April

Leaves: Narrow, upright sprays

Light: Sun-light shade

Soil: Well-drained

Hardiness: Zone 3

Uses: Border, woodland areas, rock garden, nauralizer, lawn

Remarks: Plant in the fall, 3-4 inches deep