Lenten rose and Christmas rose are common names for hellebores (Helleborus), a gardener’s gift in the dreariest weeks before the spring planting season. In a “normal” Michigan winter, hellebores will begin flowering in March and last through May, thus generating 8 to 12 weeks of showy blossoms. Although many interesting species exist, this article will concentrate on the larger, brighter-colored blossoms of hybrids developed from the Lenten rose (Helleborus orientalis).

Despite the winter, hellebores will explode into bloom at the slightest hint of spring, with blossoms 10 to 18 inches high, above thick stems. Established plants produce multitudes of large, single flowers that shine with grace and beauty, concealing their durability. Colors range from pure white to yellows, greens, pinks, plums, rose, and the darkest purple. Petals may have a variety of shading, veining, and spotting that is rarely seen in garden flowers.

Shortly after blooming, hellebores develop fresh foliage 16 to 22 inches tall and wide. It ranges from the finely cut leaves of certain species to the large, bold leaves of the more common orientalis hybrids. Leaf color ranges from pale to dark green and may be mottled with silvers, grays, and pinks. Hellebores are semi-evergreen in our climate—that means that the foliage may remain undamaged and green in the mildest of winters, while severe winters may discolor and flatten stems and leaves.

Despite their very early performance, hellebores are perfect companions to a number of spring bloomers. They combine well with the earliest-blooming bulbs such as crocus, scilla, or anemones. Fall-planted pansies and violas often produce flowers very early when hellebores are in full glory.

The earliest-blooming perennials such as primrose (Primula), lungworts (Pulmonaria), barrenwort (Epimedium), and some woodland wildflowers like trillium are also good hellebore partners. The glossy, bold, dark green foliage of Lenten rose hybrids persists through the growing season and contrasts beautifully with gold, silver, and bright green leaves. Try the gold leaves of certain hostas, golden creeping Jenny, or hay-scented ferns. For an equally stunning combination, position hellebores next to the silver foliage of lamium, Japanese painted ferns, silver-leaved perennial forget-me-nots (Brunnera macrophylla ‘Jack Frost’ or ‘Sea Heart’), or some lungworts such as ‘Moonshine’ or ‘Majesty.’

Hellebores will survive in sun or shade, but the foliage might look fresher if protected from the summer’s midday sun. Our Michigan clay soil is usually alkaline, which is fine for hellebores, but the poor drainage typically associated with clay should be corrected by adding pine bark or compost.

Hellebores have few pest and disease problems, but black spot is the most damaging and widespread difficulty with which hellebores must cope. Black or brown blotches may appear on leaves and spread to discolor flowers. Overhead watering, a lack of air circulation, and wet weather may contribute to infection, especially when plants lack proper cultural conditions. Removing the spent flowers and infected leaves will help minimize the spread of the black spot spores. Fungicides may also be used.

Lenten rose hybrids were initially available in mixtures that included many possible colors. These mixtures provided many beautiful, rich flowers, but also included several bland and less desirable forms. The safest way to buy hellebores was to purchase them when they were in bloom to ensure the best selections. Then, the “Royal Heritage” strain was developed, which offers larger flowers and an improved brilliant color range.

Today, several varieties are available that offer specific colors or forms. The Royal Heritage strain has several varieties that each provide specific colors. Recent series include Frostkiss, Gold Collection, Honeymoon, Wedding Party, Winter Angels, Winter Jewels, and Winter Thrillers. With series like these, hellebores can now be purchased out of bloom, knowing that you will get the color you want.

Fresh hellebore flowers can be cut with a little stem remaining and floated on water for a breathtaking indoor display—these flowers are ideal for being appreciated up close. Blooms can even be dried as an everlasting flower.

In general, hellebores are underused. They bloom so early that gardeners are often visiting the garden center well after they have flowered. Plant one for an early reminder each season that spring is right around the corner. Plant a few and enjoy drifts of pristine flowers that you’ll look forward to year after year.

Hellebore

Common name: Lenten rose, hellebore (HEL-eh-bore)
Botanical name: Helleborus orientalis (or Helleborus x hybridus)
Plant type: Perennial
Plant size: Height and width: 16-22 inches
Habit: Clumping
Hardiness: Zone 4
Flower color: White, yellows, greens, pinks, plums, rose, dark purple
Flower size: 2-3 inches wide
Bloom period: Late winter to spring (March to May)
Leaf color: Glossy, dark green
Leaf size: Up to 16 inches long, rising from base
Light: Partial shade to shade. Avoid afternoon sun.
Soil: Well-drained
Uses: One of the earliest plants to bloom; use it to welcome the spring season.
Companion plants: Bulbs: crocus, scilla, anemones. Fall-planted pansies and violas. Early-blooming perennials: primrose, lungworts, barrenwort, trillium.

George Papadelis is the owner of Telly’s Greenhouse in Troy and Shelby Township, MI.

by Richard Tuttle

When my wife and I decided to plant the ground under a few of our trees and shrubs, some friends suggested various fast-growing groundcovers like vinca or English ivy for these darker spots, but we knew how invasive they could be to surrounding beds or natural areas. Also, we were avid, if inexperienced perennial gardeners, and wanted to try out everything under the sun (or in this case, under the shade), but had limited areas beneath the few shade trees and large shrubs on our property. With a little research we soon learned that some of the trees that provided shade for us, namely silver and Norway maple, also had such dense and shallow root systems that growing anything under them, even lawn, would be a challenge.

In the remaining shady areas, we prepared our future shade beds by first spreading 6 to 8 inches of municipal compost (made by the city from leaves and ground-up brush) and then gently rototilled it to mix the compost with the existing soil and all its micro flora and fauna. Then we dug pathways so that the planting and future weeding and mulching could be done without walking on the beds. Once planting was complete, we mulched with a few inches of leaves (don’t use unshredded oak leaves—they can smother plantings). The following plants are standouts that have prospered through the years.

Bloodroot (Sanguinaria canadensis)

Despite an all-too-brief week or two of blooms, bloodroot is well worth planting. During a warm spell in late April, it appears out of nowhere. The cupped, scalloped leaves with their red sap are quickly followed by white-petaled flowers with gold stamens (centers). Our favorite variety (‘Flore Pleno’) has doubled flowers and fewer stamens. The double form seems much more vigorous and stays in growth much longer than the single form. Unfortunately, the doubled bloodroot seems more prone to rotting and must be divided regularly to avoid this. Grow bloodroot in deciduous shade.

Lenten rose (Helleborus orientalis)

The popularity of hellebores rivals hostas for the premier carefree perennial for shade to part sun. Plus, they are resistant to deer. They are one of the first perennials to bloom in our gardens and can continue blooming for months. The large showy flowers come in many different shades of red, pink, purple and white. They are truly perennial, lasting for decades and are tough as nails through periods of heat, humidity and drought. Their tough, glossy leaves also last all summer and well into the winter.

Wild ginger (Asarum)

Sturdy, easy and handsome groundcovers for shade, asarums acquired the wild ginger name because of the ginger-like smell that the roots give off when cut. They love organically-rich, moisture-retentive soil that is a bit acidic and has good drainage. Hardy to zone 3, our native species (Asarum canadense) is easy and spreads quickly without being invasive. European wild ginger (Asarum europaeum) is more showy with thick, glossy, dark green and leathery leaves, and is hardy to zone 4. It is a favorite, making a big shiny patch over the years. Everyone wants to also try the very handsome Asarum shuttleworthii ‘Callaway’ from Callaway Gardens in Georgia. It’s slow and expensive, but has striking patterns on the leaves. Some books say it’s hardy to zone 5 and some say zone 6. All I know so far is that it’s beautiful and growable in southeastern Michigan.

Lungwort (Pulmonaria)

Lungworts are old-fashioned perennials that are grown both for their early spring blooms of pink and blue and for their silver leaves that brighten shade gardens all summer. They make a good groundcover for shade because they form large clumps, but grow slowly enough to not be considered invasive or aggressive. They prefer some morning sun and if enough moisture is provided, even full sun. Like all woodland plants, a humus-rich, well-drained soil is best. Slugs and powdery mildew can be minor problems. The Chicago Botanic Garden did years of testing on over 30 varieties, considering disease resistance, hardiness, flowering period length and general adaptability. Among others, they recommended the following varieties: ‘Majeste,’ ‘Mrs. Moon,’ ‘Little Star,’ ‘Roy Davidson,’ and ‘Benediction.’

Variegated Solomon’s seal (Polygonatum odoratum ‘Variegatum’)

Several species of Solomon’s seal are native to Michigan woodlands and all add architectural interest to any shade garden with their graceful arching stems and fragrant pendulous flowers. Our favorite has creamy white variegation on the leaf margin and grows 30 inches tall and 12 inches wide. Over the years, clumps 3 to 6 feet wide can slowly form, so give it some space.

Barrenwort (Epimedium)

While not ranked as one of the showiest groundcovers, barrenworts have many virtues. For starters, deer avoid nibbling on them. Known as a low-growing groundcover for shade, they are tough enough to take even afternoon sun if they are grown in organically-rich, well-drained soil. They spread slowly so are not at all invasive and have attractive, mottled foliage and small but attractive, orchid-like blossoms in the spring (some people will shear last year’s tired foliage in early spring so that the flowers are more visible). Epimedium grandiflorum‘ Lilafee’ and ‘Rose Queen’ are classic favorites.

Richard Tuttle co-owned and operated Saguaro Nursery & Gardens in Whitmore Lake, MI.

Related: Janet’s Journal – Double Your Perennials, Double Your Fun

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