jhofley, Author at Michigan Gardener

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After 27 years, nearly 200 issues published, and millions of copies printed, we have decided it is time to end the publication of our Print Magazine and E-Newsletter.

Choosing reliable and choice shrubs

September 5, 2023 • Leave a Comment

These handy lists will help you select excellent shrubs and place them in the right spots

Shrubs play a major role in landscaping, as we create a hedge here and cover the ground there, there, develop a backdrop in one spot and a pivotal year-round focal point in another. As I design, each shrubby player begins as a set of desirable characteristics, sans name. My rough sketch might have a note like this next to a prominent circle: “Eight feet tall, rounded in outline, winter interest, and color in one or more seasons.” Then, auditions begin and I select possibilities, working from a list of about 200 choice shrubs I’ve come to know how to use. Once the field is narrowed to just 2 or 3 candidates for each role, I consider how those in that smaller group will play as a team and perform in the given environment. In the end I have a line-up in which every plant can shine.

I expect that all my life I will keep trying shrubs I haven’t grown before, so this list will change in time. Certainly there are some that will take the places of my current favorites.

For instance, there’s cinnamon clethra (Clethra acuminata), a tree-like shrub I want to plant and watch in various sites to see for myself if its bark is always so gorgeous as I’ve seen at botanical gardens. Its flowers aren’t nearly so fragrant as those of its little cousin now on my list, but a winter’s worth of pretty bark could trump summer scent.

There are dozens of St. John’s worts (Hypericum) to try too. If it turns out that golden St. John’s wort (H. frondosum) keeps its blue-green character and bigger, brighter yellow flowers even once it’s old, in all kinds of sites, it may replace Kalm’s St. John’s wort on my drawing board.

And there are so many natives still being selected and developed. I hope to try some selections of leadplant (Amorpha canescens), with gray foliage and violet flowers in summer. My bet is that it will be a better groundcover for the Midwest than creeping cotoneaster.

Oh, for a dozen lifetimes so I could try and report on them all—bush whacky!

Big, multi-season beauties

Chinese spicebush (Lindera angustifolia)
10- to 12-foot, upright shrub with fragrant foliage, twigs, and seeds. It opens small yellow flowers in abundance in April. The foliage glows a pretty orange in fall but then fades to parchment and hangs on over winter in zone 5. It can be evergreen in milder zones. So the plant is a natural as a four-season screen. Part shade or full sun.

Choice shrub: Chinese spicebush (Lindera angustifolia) — **Chinese spicebush (*Lindera angustifolia*)**

Chokeberry (Aronia arbutifolia)
6- to 10-foot, upright shrub. Can be a specimen, but over time can sucker to form large colonies, so it’s good for naturalizing. Small white flowers in May. Great fall color, purple to maroon. Showy red fruit forms in late summer and remains into winter or until birds pluck it all. A workhorse, adaptable to various soils and moisture conditions. Sun or half shade.

Koreanspice viburnum (Viburnum carlesii)
Rounded, dense shrub, 8 to 10 feet by 8 to 10 feet, unless you happen upon the half-size variety ‘Compacta.’ White flowers in showy round clusters in late April or early May fill a yard with outstanding spicy scent. Might develop shining red fruit if there are viburnums nearby that are closely related. Fall color sometimes a pleasing maroon.

Choice shrub: Laceleaf red elder (Sambucus racemosa varieties) — **Laceleaf red elder (*Sambucus racemosa* varieties)**

Laceleaf red elder (Sambucus racemosa varieties)
Upright woodland native with white flowers in flat-topped clusters in early summer, followed by red berries. 10 feet tall. Look for the half-size dwarf and gold laceleaf forms.

Leatherleaf viburnum (Viburnum x rhytidophylloides)
Upright, 12 to 15 feet. Tree-like, especially in shade where foliage is most dense at the top of the plant. White lace-cap flowers in May, berries in June and July that age from red to black. Coarse foliage that’s dusky purple in fall. Fast to grow, very tolerant of shade and semi-evergreen to evergreen, so it’s very useful as a screen.

Choice shrub: Panicle hydrangea (Hydrangea paniculata) — **Panicle hydrangea (*Hydrangea paniculata*)**

Panicle hydrangea (Hydrangea paniculata)
Large white flowers in conical clusters in July or August age to pink and persist through winter. Many varieties. 8 to 10 feet tall and twice as wide, but about half that if cut back to the ground every year or two. Blooms on new wood so is reliably showy even where winters are harsh or it’s pruned hard. Sun to part shade. Very tolerant of shade but develops fewer blooms.

Onondaga viburnum (Viburnum sargentii ‘Onondaga’)
8-foot upright shrub, like a small tree. Foliage emerges maroon, changes to glossy green with a rose tinge for summer and glows red to purple in fall. Flowers in lacy, flat-topped clusters in May are deep pink in bud, white in full bloom, then salmon with age. Full sun to part shade.

Seven-son flower (Heptacodium miconioides)
Upright shrub, tree-like, fast growing to 15 to 20 feet. Showy, extremely fragrant white flowers in September become attractive pink seed pods in October. Peeling bark is ivory, white, and parchment—very attractive in winter. Full sun to part shade.

Spring witch hazel (Hamamelis mollis and H. vernalis hybrids)
10 feet tall and wide, with dramatic horizontal branching and most foliage held high. Use it like a small, broad-topped tree in almost any light situation. Best in the half shade. In full sun the plant’s lines are less dramatic and foliage may scorch in summer. In the shade flowering will be less heavy. Yellow to orange or red, sweetly fragrant flowers in February and March. Butter yellow, apricot, or glowing orange fall color. Many good varieties. One special favorite is ‘Jelena,’ with red-orange flowers and orange fall color.

Choice shrub: Variegated redtwig dogwood (Cornus alba 'Elegantissima') — **Variegated redtwig dogwood (*Cornus alba* ‘Elegantissima’)**

Variegated redtwig dogwood (Cornus alba ‘Elegantissima’)
White-edged leaves, red twigs in winter, 8 feet tall and 12 feet wide, but half that size if old wood is cut out each spring to stimulate more bright colored new wood, or the whole plant is cut to the ground every couple of years in spring. Flowers white on year-old and older wood, then bears blue berries in midsummer that are eaten by birds. I love this redtwig best but there are many other great varieties, some with gold-edged leaves or twigs more orange, scarlet, or maroon. Part shade. With plenty of moisture, it grows well in full sun.

Big, with one main show

Bottlebrush buckeye (Aesculus parvifolia)
Big, bold foliage on a suckering shrub that holds up hundreds of ivory candles each June or early July. Fall color is yellow at best and in winter the shrub is nearly see-through. I love it because the hummingbirds love it—and for its fresh, showy bloom after all the spring shrubs have finished. I expect it to be 8 to 10 feet tall and wide (and accept that we’ll have to remove suckers beyond its allotted space) but know it can be twice that if it really likes the site. Sun or part shade.

Choice shrub: Bottlebrush buckeye (Aesculus parvifolia) — **Bottlebrush buckeye (*Aesculus parvifolia*)**

Fragrant honeysuckle (Lonicera fragrantissima)
6 to 10 feet tall and round. A wallflower in terms of leaf and form—even a bit shabby in winter for its thin, arching, and somewhat disordered branches. Still, unmatched for very early spring fragrance. Give it a spot in the background or hedge. Full sun to part shade.

Quince (Chaenomeles speciosa)
Densely branched, glossy-leaf shrub makes an outstanding, unmatchable show of scarlet, rose, or salmon in May followed closely by red-purple of the emerging foliage. 8 by 8 feet, dense, deep green, suckering and thorny, it’s an impenetrable hedge or stand-alone thicket. I wish more properties had room and more gardeners the tolerance to grow it. Orioles and hummingbirds love its flowers and small birds its shelter. Full sun; don’t be taken in by the claim that it tolerates shade, which it does only at the cost of its primary asset: the bloom. Newer thornless varieties are available.

Choice shrub: Snowmound spirea (Spiraea x vanhouttei) — **Snowmound spirea (*Spiraea* x vanhouttei)**

Snowmound spirea (Spiraea x vanhouttei)
White lacy flowers in dense clusters along the arching stems in May and June. A shrubby mound so densely twiggy it’s a screen even when leafless in winter. Blue-green foliage is sometimes a nice peach in fall. Larger but more graceful than Japanese snowmound. Birds love its shelter so much it never needs fertilization for all the droppings that fall there. Fast growing to 8 feet tall and wide. Full sun but very tolerant of shade.

Choice shrub: Summersweet (Clethra alnifolia) — **Summersweet (*Clethra alnifolia*)**

Summersweet (Clethra alnifolia)
5 to 8 feet tall and not quite as wide. White or pink-tinged flowers on finger-length wands in July. Some varieties are shorter, later to bloom or have more pink in the flower bud. The best feature of the plant is the spicy sweet scent. Foliage is clean green in summer and sometimes copper in fall. Attractive to hummingbirds. I cut summersweet back to the ground every 2 or 3 years to keep it small; since it blooms on new wood that never stops the flower show.

Ural false spirea (Sorbaria sorbifolia)
Ferny-leafed shrub covered in feathery white plumes in July which repeat in August. Attractive to butterflies. 10 feet tall and as wide as you allow it to sucker. Blooms on new wood so can be cut to the ground each spring, in which case it is 5 to 6 feet tall. Variety ‘Sem’ is half size, even when left un-cut. Nice coppery color as the foliage emerges early in spring, and sometimes peachy in fall.

Satisfactorily small and multi-talented

Barberry (Berberis thunbergii)
Dense, reliable shrub for full sun. Greatest return from varieties with red, gold, and variegated foliage. 6 feet tall and wide. Density and nasty thorns make it an excellent mounded, no-prune hedge. If you must have a rectangular hedge, plant an upright form such as ‘Sunjoy Gold Pillar’ and skip the pruning with its painful clean-up. Dwarf, mounded 18-inch by 36-inch forms are delightful (‘Gold Nugget,’ ‘Crimson Pygmy’). Insignificant flowers, may have red berries in winter.

Choice shrub: Beautyberry (Callicarpa dichotoma) — **Beautyberry (*Callicarpa dichotoma*)**

Beautyberry (Callicarpa dichotoma)
A wide mound of nearly horizontal stems, 3 to 4 feet tall. Tiny flowers in July become clusters of purple fruit lining the branches. A showstopper in October when the leaves go golden and the fruit is the most purple. Full sun or part shade. Blooms on new wood and can be treated as a perennial, cut to the ground each year.

Blue mist spirea (Caryopteris x clandonensis)
5-foot round mound of gray stems with gray-green foliage and lacy blue flowers in August. All parts of the plant are sweetly fragrant. Blooms on new wood so can be cut to the ground each spring (and branches may die back in zone 5 anyway). Cutback and dieback shrubs usually reach only 3 to 4 feet. Gold-leaf variety ‘Worcester Gold’ and related C. divaricata ‘Snow Fairy’ with white-edged leaves show off their flowers to even greater advantage. Full sun. Don’t believe claims of shade tolerance—only in sun does it develop good bloom and scent.

Creeping cotoneaster (Cotoneaster adpressus)
12- to 18-inch horizontally branching shrub with pink or white flowers in June, then red berries that can be very showy in fall and persist into winter before being eaten by birds. Great for covering ground since it spreads by rooting where branches make good contact with soil. Full sun.

Choice shrub: Dwarf spirea (Spiraea x bumalda) — **Dwarf spirea (*Spiraea* x bumalda)**

Dwarf spirea (Spiraea x bumalda)
2 to 3 feet tall and wide. Branches honey brown and so dense that the plant is a significant presence even when leafless in winter. Pink, rose, or white flowers in June and July will repeat in August if the shrub is sheared to deadhead it. Blooms on new wood and can be grown as a perennial, by cutting it to the ground each spring (the first bloom will be delayed into July). Some varieties have colorful foliage in summer (‘Gold Mound,’ ‘Lime Mound,’ etc.) and some have seasonally changing color (‘Gold Flame’ begins orange in spring, is gold in summer and orange once again in fall). Best in full sun but tolerant of part shade.

Kalm’s St. John’s wort (Hypericum kalmianum)
2- to 3-foot round, dense, with blue-green leaves. Makes a good foil for spring-blooming perennials and then picks up the garden with bright yellow, furry-centered flowers over many weeks beginning in July. Full sun.

Slender deutzia (Deutzia gracilis)
Dense, twiggy plant that manages to bloom almost as well in shade as sun. 4 to 6 feet tall and almost as wide, dwarf ‘Nikko’ is half that height and broader than tall. Gray twigs can be a pretty structure in winter in combination with evergreen perennials. White dangling flowers all along the branches in May.

Virginia sweetspire (Itea virginica)
Arching stems, 4 to 5 feet tall (half height in dwarf forms such as ‘Little Henry’). Part sun. Native along moist streambanks in sun and shade where it suckers to form groundcovering colonies. Blooms white in June but grow it where you will see its most valuable asset: the very late, glowing red-purple fall color.

Evergreens

Bird’s nest spruce (Picea abies ‘Nidiformis’)
Irregularly mounded, dense, and eventually 4 feet tall and twice as wide. It may develop a depression in top center. If it must be kept smaller than its potential, prune every year or two beginning as soon as it reaches maximum allowable size. Full sun to part shade.

Choice shrub: Bird’s nest spruce (Picea abies 'Nidiformis' — **Bird’s nest spruce (*Picea abies* ‘Nidiformis’)**

Blue star juniper (Juniperus squamata ‘Blue Star’)
Its blue foliage is bright in summer, steely in winter. Slow to grow and compact, might eventually be 2 feet tall and half again as wide. Has rather brittle branches so don’t plant it where feet may stray or snow might be stacked in winter. Full sun.

Dwarf white pine (Pinus strobus ‘Nana’)
Mounded or wide, irregularly spreading, light green plant with long, soft needles. Luminous in winter. May reach 6 feet tall and 10 feet wide but can be kept smaller if pruned every year or two beginning as soon as it reaches the desired height and width. Full sun to part shade, and amazingly tolerant of shade although much more open and slow growing there.

Goldthread falsecypress (Chamaecyparis pisifera ‘Filifera Aurea’)
Mound of feathery, gold-tipped foliage forms a broad pyramid 10 to 15 feet tall. Dwarf varieties include ‘Golden Mop,’ ‘Vintage Gold,’ and ‘Lemon Thread.’

Hinoki falsecypress (Chamaecyparis obtusa ‘Nana’)
Very dense, slow-growing dwarf with irregular fans and ridges, very dark green foliage and brighter green new growth. It has the look of a dark green, coral outcrop. 2 feet tall and half again as wide. Full sun to part shade.

Choice shrub: Sargent hemlock (Tsuga canadensis 'Sargentii') — **Sargent hemlock (*Tsuga canadensis* ‘Sargentii’)**

Sargent hemlock (Tsuga canadensis ‘Sargentii’)
The king of feathery evergreens, it makes a graceful mound 8 feet tall and 2 or 3 times as wide, or a small weeping tree. Part shade or sun.

Ward’s yew (Taxus x media ‘Wardii’)
Dark green, dense, wide-spreading beauty in sun or shade. Red “berries” in winter add interest. 4 to 8 feet tall and 10 feet wide or wider. Can be kept smaller, even sheared into geometric forms, but is best used if grown for or pruned for its graceful natural form with feathered edges. For hedges and sheared shapes, use the more regularly-shaped, upright ‘Hicks’ or rounded ‘Densiformis’ yews.

Article by Janet Macunovich and photos by Steven Nikkila, www.gardenatoz.com.

RELATED: See “Website Extra: Janet’s Guide to Shrubs” for additional useful lists for shrubs in this article, such as:

Shade
April/May/early June bloom
Bloom in late June or later
Fragrance
Fall color
Birds and butterflies
Winter interest
Screen or hedge
Colorful fruit
Colorful foliage in summer
Long lived without pruning
Hardiest

ELSEWHERE: A homeowner’s guide to nutrition and fertilization of landscape trees and shrubs

Autumn is a time for harvesting, planting and preparing your vegetable garden

September 5, 2023 • Leave a Comment

by Mary Gerstenberger

Autumn in the vegetable patch is a busy time. Cold-sensitive veggies such as tomatoes and peppers need to be harvested before first frost, or to extend their season, cover them with a sheet or tarp on nights when a frost is predicted. Cold tolerant plants such as radishes and lettuce can still be planted. Late in September is the time to plant garlic cloves for next year’s harvest. More importantly, autumn is the time when garden cleanup as well as garden preparation begins.

Good garden cleanup is fundamental to having a healthy garden next year. Many types of fungal spores as well as insects can overwinter in the leaf litter and soil. Plants that showed signs of disease should be removed from the garden along with any plant debris around them. Healthy plant remains can be composted or turned back into the soil to return their nutrients to the garden.

The cleanup we do in the fall is the first step in preparing the spring garden. Not only can the remains of our vegetable plants be dug into the garden, but autumn leaves and grass clippings as well. These help provide organic matter, which is important to good soil structure and healthy plants. Another way to provide organic matter and nutrients is to plant a cover crop such as oats or annual rye that can be turned into the soil in the spring. A layer of compost can be spread over or tilled into the garden as another option to enrich and improve the soil.

After cleanup, the second step in preparing the garden is to plan ahead. Take note of where you planted your different vegetables this year so you can plan to rotate them to a new spot next year. Planting closely related crops in the same part of the garden each year can lead to recurring problems with plant diseases as well as insect issues.

Autumn can be a hectic time in the garden as we harvest our vegetables and work at extending the growing season. However, with a little extra effort now, we can look forward to a quicker, better start to our garden in the spring.

Mary Gerstenberger was the Consumer Horticulture Coordinator at the Michigan State University Extension in Macomb County, MI. For vegetable and gardening information from MSU, visit www.migarden.msu.edu.

Call the toll-free Michigan State University Lawn and Garden Hotline at 888-678-3464 for answers to your gardening questions.

ELSEWHERE: Why test soil in the fall?

Website Extra: Janet’s Guide to Shrubs

September 5, 2023 • Leave a Comment

Shine even in shade

Although these perform best in sun or part shade, in the shade they still manage to please:

Chinese spicebush
Dwarf white pine
Fragrant honeysuckle
Laceleaf red elder
Leatherleaf viburnum
Panicle hydrangea
Spring witch hazel
Ural false spirea
Ward’s yew

Notable spring flowers: Showy before summer solstice

Chinese spicebush
Chokeberry
Fragrant honeysuckle
Koreanspice viburnum
Laceleaf red elder
Quince
Sargent viburnum
Slender deutzia
Snowmound spirea
Spring witch hazel

Summer pick-me-ups: Blooms in late June and later

Blue mist spirea
Bottlebrush buckeye
Dwarf spirea
Kalm St. John’s wort
Leatherleaf viburnum
Panicle hydrangea
Seven-son flower
Summersweet
Ural false spirea

Fragrant

Blue mist spirea
Fragrant honeysuckle
Koreanspice viburnum
Laceleaf red elder
Seven-son flower
Spring witch hazel
Summersweet

Great fall color

Chinese spicebush
Chokeberry
Sargent viburnum
Spring witch hazel
Virginia sweetspire

Bait for birds and butterflies

Bottlebrush buckeye
Chokeberry
Laceleaf red elder
Quince
Snowmound spirea
Summersweet
Ural false spirea

Winter interest

Bird’s nest spruce
Blue star juniper
Chinese spicebush
Chokeberry
Dwarf white pine
Goldthread falsecypress
Hinoki falsecypress
Leatherleaf viburnum
Panicle hydrangea
Seven-son flower
Variegated redtwig dogwood
Ward’s yew
Weeping hemlock

Effective screen or hedge

Barberry (larger varieties)
Chinese spicebush
Chokeberry
Dwarf spirea
Dwarf white pine
Leatherleaf viburnum
Quince
Snowmound spirea
Ward’s yew

Color from fruit

Beautyberry
Chokeberry
Laceleaf red elder
Leatherleaf viburnum
Sargent viburnum
Seven-son flower
Ward’s yew

Colorful foliage in summer

Barberry
Blue mist spirea
Blue star juniper
Dwarf spirea
Goldthread falsecypress
Variegated redtwig dogwood

Long-lived without pruning

Barberry
Bird’s nest spruce
Blue star juniper
Chinese spicebush
Chokeberry
Creeping cotoneaster
Dwarf white pine
Goldthread falsecypress
Hinoki falsecypress
Leatherleaf viburnum
Sargent viburnum
Seven-son flower
Spring witchhazel
Summersweet
Ward’s yew
Weeping hemlock

Hardiest

All the shrubs grow well in USDA hardiness zone 5. These can go north into zone 4:

Barberry
Bird’s nest spruce
Blue star juniper
Bottlebrush buckeye
Chokeberry
Dwarf spirea (to zone 3)
Dwarf white pine
Fragrant honeysuckle
Kalm St. John’s wort
Laceleaf red elder
Onondaga viburnum (to zone 3)
Panicle hydrangea (to zone 3)
Slender deutzia
Snowmound spirea (to zone 3)
Spring witch hazel
Summersweet
Ural false spirea (to zone 3)
Variegated redtwig dogwood
Ward’s yew
Weeping hemlock

Concolor fir is a majestic grower with exceptional color

August 21, 2023 • Leave a Comment

**Concolor fir offers superior form, color, and texture when compared to many other common large conifers.**

One of the finest firs, and perhaps larger conifers, for use in the Midwest and eastern areas of North America, this unusually showy specimen boasts 2- to 3-inch long, silvery blue foliage that is soft and aromatic. Although this majestic grower can reach 100 feet, it can be used in almost any full sun location that will accept its 20-foot spread. Known for its exceptional color and elegance, the white or concolor fir will be a winner when used as an alternative to the more commonly used forms of large evergreens. Although its silver blue color has earned concolor fir undeniable bragging rights, its large 3- to 6-inch cones often add to the show with their purplish bloom each summer.

The concolor fir is disease resistant under ordinary conditions. Due to its dense and full habit, no pruning should be necessary. Concolor fir is tolerant of almost any well-drained location, but would prefer a sandy or topsoil-filled area. These firs have done well in locations that are very arid with little or no topsoil to be found. When choosing a location, avoid heavy clay and low or wet spots. Consider a group of 3 or 5 concolor firs in the corner of a back or side yard to create a natural screen for privacy. This placement uses fewer plants than a traditional hedge or screen, while adding natural beauty and the element of depth to what could have been a rather boring spot in the yard. Since the white fir is extremely hardy, there is no need to shelter these beautiful specimens from the wind.

Concolor or white fir

Botanical name: Abies concolor (AY-beez KON-kull-er)
Plant type: Evergreen tree
Size: 40-60 feet tall, 20 feet wide (30 years); some may grow taller
Growth rate: Slow to medium
Leaf color: Silvery blue-green
Leaf size: 2- to 3-inch long needles
Light: Full sun for best results; will tolerate light shade
Soil: Prefers a well-drained site; will tolerate dry conditions once established
Hardiness: Zones 3-7
Landscape use: Best for open areas that drain well. Good alternative to spruces.
Special qualities: Develops 3- to 6-inch cones that mature to purple. Excellent disease and pest resistance. Superior form, color, and texture when compared to many other common large conifers.

Text and photo courtesy of the Michigan Nursery & Landscape Association.

Charming cottage vegetable garden

July 18, 2023 • Leave a Comment

Chip and Betsy Erwin thoughtfully designed their wonderful front yard potager, which many passersby stop to enjoy.

Chip and Betsy Erwin generously share the abundant harvest of vegetables and flowers from their superb vegetable garden.

Text and Photographs by Lisa Steinkopf

It isn’t often one sees a potager or kitchen garden in a front yard. Yet, Chip and Betsy Erwin have created a stunning one in the city limits of Ann Arbor.

I visited with Chip and asked him how this garden came to be in front of their home instead of in the backyard like most. He told me he and Betsy didn’t want to take up too much of their backyard with gardens, as it is quite shady. So, the sunny front yard became their food garden, and it is a showstopper.

The iron window box was custom made for the house by a friend.

Their home is circa 1926, while the garage is a newer addition. If you didn’t know, you couldn’t tell. Stone walls outline the potager and help moderate the temperature of the garden area. They had John Cullen of Celtic Gardens install the unique dry stack, mortarless stone walls. This type of wall construction has a history that dates to roughly 3800 BC. The walls are often seen in Scotland and England, as well as our New England states. They are befitting of the Erwin home. The metal window box above the front door was made by artist/ironsmith friend Andrew Kyte, of Kyte Metalwerks. It adds to the English cottage-like charm.

Dry-stacked stone walls outline the potager boundary. (photo credit: Chip Erwin)

The front yard potager

The entrance from the sidewalk is my favorite aspect and I’m sure passersby would agree. It’s framed by an espaliered pear that curves over the front walk and forms a tunnel-like entrance. It highlights the garden and house beyond. A row of hardy Winter Gem boxwoods lines each side of the walk to the front door. The front walk has intersecting paths that lead to the side yard and driveway. These paths indicate the shade cast by the house—thus the foundation plantings are shade-tolerant.

Chip and Betsy Erwin

The Erwin potager garden is quite a focal point in the neighborhood. Chip and Betsy say the garden’s greatest joy is the community aspect of the front garden. Many people stop to admire the garden while on their daily walks. So, Chip installed a garden bench around the street tree so people can have a place to rest as they admire the garden.

The Erwins share the bounty of the garden with everyone, leaving bouquets on the bench. They make pairs so neighbors not only get a bouquet for themselves but one to share with a friend. In the fall, children love to stop to see the pumpkins hanging from the pear trellis. It’s unusual to see a pumpkin hanging from a trellis. Chip and Betsy have received many thank-you notes in return for their generous gifts. The neighborhood sharing has brought other surprises: new recipes. A neighbor used the Honeycrisp and Gala apples to make an apple curry chutney from a family recipe in India. A neighbor from Kenya, missing the collard greens of her youth, shared her recipe and was able to partake in their abundant harvest.

Late summer in the Erwin’s backyard.

The garden is filled with many different vegetables, herbs, perennials, and annuals. The Erwins start over half of what they grow from seed. The list includes tomatoes, collards, cucumbers, Swiss chard, and more. Lettuce, radishes, and carrots are planted in succession, so they are always available.

Chip likes to try new plants each year. He has grown cardoons, tomatillos, and walking onions. The bounty from their garden is not only shared, but also canned and frozen for later. They make salsa from the tomatoes and dry their herbs for winter recipes. They are dried in the oven on low until the leaves fall from the stems. Rosemary, thyme, and parsley are ground in the coffee grinder and stored. He finds overplanting teaches what plants do the best. If they do well, they stay. If not, they go to the compost pile. There are perennials planted around the edges and some plants are grown on obelisks to allow room for more plants. Sweet autumn clematis, sweet peas, and clematis are some of the vines in the garden. Pies and jam are the results of the rhubarb harvest as well as a simple syrup for cocktails.

The Erwins harvest honey twice a year from their bee hives.

The Erwins have also included a pollinator garden for the butterflies and bees. Not only do they grow plants for the bees, but they also “grow” bees. They have two beehives in the backyard and together the neighborhood boasts six hives. They harvest honey twice a year, both in the early summer and late summer. This leaves enough for the bees for the winter. I was lucky enough to receive a jar of that honey. Yum!

Many of their plants have a story. They received indigo from their brother-in-law, a maidenhair fern from Betsy’s mom, and lupines from an aunt in Maine. Shared family plants are the best.

They have many dahlias, and over the winter they are stored in the garage in light wood chips. A tender fig tree also enjoys the garage all winter. Because there is a living space over the garage, it stays warm enough to keep the plants through the winter without freezing.

I’m sure you are wondering, as I did, how Chip and Betsy keep the deer from decimating the garden. They have motion sensor sprayers that are on at night. Of course, they are off during the day to prevent unscheduled showers while gardening. The most damaging pests are the resident groundhogs. The challenge is preventing them from not only eating their garden but also ruining the stone walls.

In the backyard, three troughs contain additional herb and vegetable plants.

The backyard garden

As we move to the backyard, the light becomes shady but there is one area that isn’t. Here, Chip and Betsy incorporated raised beds for more vegetables and herbs. The beds are three large water troughs usually used for farm animals. One is dedicated to herbs, including mint, rue, chives, sage, and rosemary. The rosemary moves to the garage in the fall and grows under lights to extend the harvest. Kale fills another trough, which they cover to keep the cabbage moths away. The third has radishes, snow peas, and nasturtiums. These are right off the patio, and easily accessible to the kitchen. Chip says these troughs are a great idea for people that don’t have a lot of room for gardening. Each one supplies a lot of food. The raised aspect is also great for people who cannot garden the usual way. After back surgery, I can understand! Raised beds are ideal for many.

Kale fills one of the backyard troughs in the fall.

There is a small fenced-in area filled with plants. Originally, it was home to chickens for several years. Unfortunately, neighbors complained of chicken “leftovers” on their patios and porches. Thus, the free-range chickens found new homes. The Erwins let the ground sit for a year. Now the nitrogen-rich area is home to asparagus, Turkish rocket, and other plants.

These fun, faux sheep turn the heads of visitors to the backyard. (photo credit: Chip Erwin)

Young wisterias are getting established on the backyard pergola, which offers shade on a hot day.

The backyard pergola supports many vines, including wisteria, hops, trumpet vine, and a rose. It is a wonderful place to rest in the summer and enjoy the bees, butterflies, and (faux) sheep.

I had a wonderful time talking to Chip and Betsy about their amazing garden. I love how it has drawn in the community. Their generosity in sharing flowers and the edible bounty of their garden is heartwarming. What a great example to follow in our own gardens!

Lisa Steinkopf is The Houseplant Guru. Check out her website and blog at www.thehouseplantguru.com. Contact Lisa to speak at your next club meeting or event (houseplantgurulisa@gmail.com or 734-748-1241). Follow her on Facebook (Facebook.com/HouseplantGuru), Twitter (@houseplantguru), and Instagram (houseplantguru).

Globe thistle

July 18, 2023 • Leave a Comment

by George Papadelis

When it comes to durable, non-demanding perennials for sun, several great plants come to mind. Yarrow (Achillea), silver mound (Artemisia), tickseed (Coreopsis), purple coneflower (Echinacea), daylilies, black-eyed Susan (Rudbeckia), and ornamental grasses are just a few of these tough, long-lived gladiators of the perennial border. This list would not be complete without globe thistle (Echinops ritro). Even the worst winters, the hottest summers, and the poorest soil leave this perennial smiling year after year.

Don’t let the word “thistle” in the common name scare you. This one rarely gets out of control and the leaves are also much more gentle than their weedy relatives. This thistle produces clusters of 1- to 2-inch round, steel blue flowers in July that usually last into September. They can grow as short as two feet tall, but more fertile soils can help them grow over four feet tall. The flowers are held well above the showy, large, silvery leaves. As the season progresses, however, the foliage tends to become unattractive, so I recommend planting more pleasing, slightly shorter plants in front. This fact alone makes globe thistle best suited for the back of the perennial border.

Globe thistle has several other uses that should be mentioned. It is often grown for its outstanding cut and dried flowers. Globe thistle can be dried the old-fashioned way by stripping off the leaves, tying the stems together, and hanging them upside down out of the sunlight in a dry and warm attic or garage for 2 to 4 weeks. The dried flowers are then stored in paper bags. Ideally, the best and fastest method of drying the flowers is by packing the blooms carefully in silica gel. This product evaporates the moisture so rapidly that the plant’s form and color are retained extremely well, often months after summer has passed.

Both the flowers and foliage of globe thistle make a strong impact in the perennial border. (photo credit: White Flower Farm) — **‘Taplow Blue’ has slightly larger flowers and grows slightly taller. (photo credit: Wayside Gardens)**

The unique spherical, blue blooms of globe thistle work well when contrasted with other colors and forms. Daisy-like flowers combine nicely with these, so try placing a purple coneflower in front. Russian sage has tiny lavender flowers and wonderful silver foliage that is a must with blue flowers. For another durable trio, try globe thistle with a pink, mildew-resistant bee balm like ‘Marshall’s Delight’ and the vibrant gold flowers of black-eyed Susan. For a maize and blue look, try positioning the flat, yellow-colored flowers of yarrow (Achillea) in front of your globe thistle. All of these plants are great summer performers that will tolerate poor soil and full sun.

The species globe thistle (Echinops ritro) can be grown easily from seed, but these plants are readily available and relatively inexpensive. Where soil is more fertile, plants may grow tall enough to require staking. Clumps of mature globe thistle should be divided to maintain their vigor and size. This can be done in spring after the plants are at least three years old. Globe thistle can also be used in meadow or prairie plantings where little or no maintenance would be required. Even deer rarely snack on the coarse leaves and tough flowers. However, bees, hummingbirds, and especially butterflies find globe thistle irresistible.

A few varieties are available that have slight variations from the species. ‘Taplow Blue’ has a similar silvery-blue color, but has larger flowers that measure up to three inches across. It usually grows somewhat taller at 4 to 5 feet. For a deeper blue color, try ‘Veitch’s Blue.’ This one is more popular in Europe and boasts larger clusters of flowers on each stem. This one grows about three feet tall. Both of these varieties may be difficult to find locally in garden centers.

The flowers on 'Veitch's Blue' are a deeper blue color. (photo credit: Eric Hofley / Michigan Gardener) — **The flowers on ‘Veitch’s Blue’ are a deeper blue color. (photo credit: Eric Hofley / Michigan Gardener)**

As you can see, globe thistle is hardy, undemanding, versatile, and useful in the garden. As Ann Lovejoy says in her book The American Mixed Border: “Globe thistles…with their needle-studded flower balls poised on long stalks like so many vegetable maces, have strong garden presence. Even when out of bloom, their great, toothed leaves, rich green backed with gray, rise powerfully amid shrubby-looking peony foliage and grassy daylilies.”

Globe thistle fits nicely into any sunny border or a garden dedicated to cut flowers, hummingbirds, or butterflies. So try it out and don’t be intimidated by its common name—it could be worse: even wormwood, sandwort, and pig squeak are all good plants!

Globe thistle

Botanical name: Echinops ritro (ECK-ih-nops RYE-tro)
Plant type: Perennial
Plant size: Height: 2-5 feet, width: 2-3 feet
Habit: Upright, erect
Hardiness: Zone 3
Flower color: Shades of rich blue
Flower size: 1- to 3-inch diameter
Bloom period: July-September
Leaf color: Silvery, dark green; underside is gray
Leaf size: Length: 6-8 inches, width: 2-4 inches
Light: Full sun
Soil: Best in poor, well-drained soil
Uses: Back of perennial border, cut and dried flowers
Companion plants: Purple coneflower, Russian sage, bee balm, black-eyed Susan
Remarks: Easy to grow. Place smaller plants around base, since foliage becomes unattractive as the season progresses.

George Papadelis is the owner of Telly’s Greenhouse in Troy and Shelby Township, MI.

Elsewhere: Gardening for pollinators: Smart plants to support pollinators

2023 Perennial Plant of the Year: ‘American Gold Rush’ black-eyed Susan

June 27, 2023 • Leave a Comment

‘American Gold Rush’ black-eyed Susan boasts a long season of bright color, from the height of summer up to fall frosts. Golden-yellow flowers feature arching rays and a reddish halo surrounding dark chocolate cones. Three-inch flowers blanket the compact plant, only 22 to 27 inches tall with a broader width to 40 inches if given room to grow. The green leaves and stems are covered in hairs, which gives them a silvery cast. On sunny days, peeking through the blooms to the leaves is a shimmering silver-and-gold sight.

**‘American Gold Rush’ is an excellent focal point in perennial borders and combines well with ornamental grasses. (photo credit: Intrinsic Perennial Gardens)**

More than just boosting the ornamental show, the hairy foliage is resistant to septoria leaf spot—a debilitating fungal disease that causes unsightly black spotting and premature seasonal decline on some black-eyed Susans. In fact, ‘American Gold Rush’ is a great substitute for the popular ‘Goldsturm’ rudbeckia, which is highly susceptible to leaf spotting.

**‘American Gold Rush’ displays a long blooming season on a compact plant. (photo credit: www.PerennialResource.com)**

A reliable, hardy perennial, ‘American Gold Rush’ is a superb focal point in perennial borders and meadows, and is also brilliant when massed. Butterflies flutter around the blooms and songbirds feast on the plentiful seed long after the flowers have passed. The seed heads provide winter interest too. Garden companions are many, including alliums, asters, salvias, and native grasses such as little bluestem (Schizachyrium scoparium) and prairie dropseed (Sporobolus heterolepis).

**Golden-yellow flowers feature arching rays. (photo credit: Intrinsic Perennial Gardens)**

‘American Gold Rush’ black-eyed Susan

Botanical name: Rudbeckia hybrid
Size: 22-27 inches tall and up to 40 inches wide.
Light: Full sun to partial shade.
Soil: Average, well-drained soils. Adaptable to clay, alkaline or acid pH, and gravelly soils. May flop in rich, fertile soils.
Hardiness: Zone 4.
Maintenance: A low-maintenance perennial. Cut back in late winter to early spring. Good heat- and drought-resistance once established. Reseeding does occur. Divide as needed to maintain a robust habit.
Origin: Originated from open-pollinated seed sown from the seed parent Rudbeckia fulgida var. deamii.

Elsewhere: More photos of Rudbeckia ‘American Gold Rush’

How-to deadhead, cut back, and pinch flowers

June 27, 2023 • Leave a Comment

These maintenance techniques will keep your flowers neat and profuse

by Steven Nikkila

To deadhead is to remove spent flowers. To cut back is to remove spent flowering stalks and foliage after a plant’s effective bloom season has finished (see photos 1 and 2).

Sea pinks (Armeria maritima) before deadheading. — **Photo 1: Sea pinks (*Armeria maritima*) before deadheading.**

**Photo 2: Sea pinks after deadheading.**

Deadhead and/or cut back to keep the garden neater and more colorful. It prevents seed formation, which in turn may prolong a plant’s flower production cycle. It reduces the amount of ripening, brown seed pods and stems, making the scene more green and lush. Finally, it limits the number of seeds that fall in the garden. Fewer seeds means fewer problems with prolific seed producers that can become weeds through self-sowing (see photo 3).

This variegated heartleaf forget-me-not (Brunnera macrophylla 'Variegata') has far more seed pods than flowers at this point in its flowering cycle. Now is a good time to cut back this flowering stem. — Photo 3: This variegated heartleaf forget-me-not (*Brunnera macrophylla* ‘Variegata’) has far more seed pods than flowers at this point in its flowering cycle. Now is a good time to cut back this flowering stem.

The simplest deadheading is to remove each flower as the petals fade, leaving developing flower buds behind. Flowers and buds may be in clusters, with buds tight against the faded flowers. To remove each flower in a cluster as it finishes may be more detail work than you care to do. In that case, remove each cluster when the number of spent flowers exceeds the number of buds remaining in the group or on the stem (see photos 4 and 5).

Pointing out spent flowers on Jacob's ladder (Polemonium caeruleum). — **Photo 4: Pointing out spent flowers on Jacob’s ladder (*Polemonium caeruleum*).**

Jacob's ladder flower buds that remain after deadheading the spent blossoms. — **Photo 5: Jacob’s ladder flower buds that remain after deadheading the spent blossoms.**

To cut back, note where new sprouts tend to develop on the type of plant you are dealing with. Remove the entire flowering stem, cutting just above a husky stem or node. The thicker the remaining stem, the thicker any new flowering shoot will be. Sometimes new foliage and sprouts are produced only at the very base of the plant, so cutting back will severely reduce the plant’s overall height. This is fine if more foliage is left at the base than is removed in cutting back (see photos 6 and 7).

Where to cut back old flowering stalks on meadow rue (Thalictrum aquilegiifolium). — **Photo 6: Where to cut back old flowering stalks on meadow rue (*Thalictrum aquilegiifolium*).**

**Photo 7: Meadow rue flowering stalk with buds left for later bloom.**

Pinching is a pre-bloom season technique to stall off flowering and make a plant bushier. It is often done to fall-blooming mums, but many other late summer and fall-blooming perennials can be pinched as well, including asters (Aster novae-angliae, Aster novi-belgii and others), hardy hibiscus (Hibiscus moscheutos), balloon flower (Platycodon grandiflorus), turtlehead (Chelone obliqua), and sneezeweed (Helenium autumnale). To pinch, cut off stem tips, removing up to 1/3 of the plant’s foliage (see photos 8 and 9). New branches will sprout from nodes lower on the stem, making several new tips where there was one before pinching. A pinched stem will tend to set a larger number of flowers than a stem left alone, though individual flowers will be smaller (see photo 10).

New England aster (Aster novae-angliae), roughly gauging it in thirds. — **New England aster (*Aster novae-angliae*), roughly gauging it in thirds.**

**Photo 9: New England aster after pinching the top third off.**

Plants can be pinched several times during the growing season. It is said that mums should be pinched “3 times by the 4th” (of July). New stems (with new flower buds) tend to take 3 to 6 weeks to appear after the pinch, and flowers open after 2 to 4 more weeks of development, so it’s best to make your last pinches no later than early August.

**Photo 10: This aster tip has had its leaves removed, to let you see the side shoots that will develop into new flowering shoots.**

Article and photos by Steven Nikkila, www.gardenatoz.com.

Elsewhere: Summer flower care keeps your plants blooming strong

Petunia: An annual classic

June 27, 2023 • Leave a Comment

The petunia is one of the most popular annual flowers to ever grace our gardens, porches and patios.

History

The petunias we know today are a far cry from those that first appeared in 19th century gardens, although they are all based mainly on two species that were discovered in South America in the mid-1700s and early 1800s: white-flowered Petunia axillaris and purple-flowered Petunia violacea. Introduced into Europe in the early 1800s, these species weren’t spectacular garden flowers—they were lanky and rather small-flowered—but breeders began crossing them in search of larger flowers and more colors, especially in Germany and England. The result was the garden petunia, referred to as Petunia x hybrida.

Petunias remain one of the most popular garden plants because of their constant blooms and the great variety of colors, shapes and sizes available. (photo credit: National Garden Bureau) — **Petunias remain one of the most popular garden plants because of their constant blooms and the great variety of colors, shapes and sizes available. (photo credit: Eric Hofley / Michigan Gardener)**

Types of petunias

Petunias are members of the nightshade family (Solanaceae), which includes relatives like tomatoes, peppers and tobacco plant (Nicotiana). Many of the different classes of petunias can be used interchangeably in the garden, but some are especially suited for containers and groundcovers. Many petunias have a light, sweet fragrance, particularly noticeable in blue petunias.

When buying plants, look for clean, green foliage—no dried out or spotted leaves, no powdery mold evident. The soil shouldn’t be water-logged. The plant should have buds as well as flowers.

Multiflora: This class performs better than most others in adverse weather conditions, especially hot, wet spells, during which they continue to flower freely. The flowers, which may be single or double, are produced in abundance all season. Single multifloras are ideal for mass and border plantings; double multifloras make spectacular container and window box plantings. Flowers range from 1-1/2 to 3 inches in diameter and come in a rainbow of colors, often with contrasting centers or stripes.

Grandiflora: The single-flowered grandiflora has long been a most popular petunia type. A sometimes sprawling plant, it is excellent for mass plantings and containers. The double-flowered grandiflora is the class that helped bring on “petunia mania.” Its 3- to 4-inch blooms look wonderful in porch or window boxes and large tubs. Both single- and double-flowered grandifloras come in numerous color variations, with cultivars that are solid or bicolor, deeply veined, striped or edged in a contrasting shade called picotee types. These petunias do best in cool temperatures; in high heat, the stems tend to stretch. Newer cultivars, though, are more compact and more rain- and disease-tolerant than many of the older ones.

Spreading: Low-growing plants that reach only 4 to 6 inches in height, spreading petunias can be used as a flowering groundcover, as well as a trailer in hanging baskets. Flowers, 2 to 3 inches wide, form along the entire length of each stem and are produced prolifically all season without the stems being trimmed back. Spreading petunias stand up particularly well to heat and humidity.

Floribunda: Available in single- and double-flowered hybrids, the floribunda petunia is basically an improved multiflora. Flowers are somewhat larger than those of a multiflora, but they’re produced with the same abundance. The plants flower earlier, like a grandiflora, but are more weather-tolerant—they perk up quickly after a rain shower. Floribundas are excellent for mass plantings in the landscape and for container plantings in pots and hanging baskets.

When buying petunia bedding plants, look for plants with clean, green foliage and those that have buds as well as flowers. (photo credit: National Garden Bureau) — **When buying petunia bedding plants, look for plants with clean, green foliage and those that have buds as well as flowers. (photo credit: Eric Hofley / Michigan Gardener)**

How to grow petunias

Petunias flourish in full sun (six or more hours of direct sun daily), but they will grow adequately in part shade. In part shade, the stems will stretch more, and the plants will flower less, but they will still add color to your landscape. If you are planting window boxes, remember that overhanging eaves will produce some shade and will also shelter the plants from rain—beneficial to blooms, but detrimental to the plants if you forget to water before they wilt.

Even though petunias are adaptable and will grow in almost any kind of soil (rocky, sandy or clay), they do best in a light but rich soil that has good drainage. When you have selected a site, amend the soil by digging in 1 to 2 inches of compost before planting. For planting in window boxes and containers, fill with a professional soilless potting mix, because it is lighter in weight.

Place the plants in the ground or in a container at the same level they were growing in the plastic pack. Follow the tag guidelines on spacing plants. In the ground, that can be anywhere from 6 to 20 inches apart, depending on the petunia type. Plants in containers are usually spaced closer together, so that the pots overflow with color. Consider the plant heights when placing them. Most petunias grow 12 to 14 inches high, but some can be slightly taller, while spreaders are typically only 6 inches high.

You may want to place a layer of mulch around plants in the ground to prevent mud from splattering up on the blooms. The mulch helps retain soil moisture and discourages weeds.

**Edge a garden border with a burst of petunia color. (photo credit: Eric Hofley / Michigan Gardener)**

Maintenance

Petunias don’t require a lot of care, but they do benefit from some attention. Fertilize the plants monthly with a balanced fertilizer. The stems of most petunias have a tendency to stretch out by midsummer and bear fewer flowers, since blooms are formed at the ends of the stems. Prune them back quite severely so they will produce new shoots and more flowers. Trailing petunias don’t need to be pruned at all, which makes them really easy-care.

Because they are quite drought tolerant, in-ground petunias seldom need daily watering other than what they receive with rain. In prolonged drought periods, watch that the soil doesn’t get too dry. On the other hand, if you are growing the plants in window boxes or other containers, where soil can dry out quickly, check the soil daily in hot weather and water as needed.

Petunia cultivars are relatively disease resistant, but they occasionally can have a few problems. Plants in the garden can be bothered by white fly and flea beetles; the latter may eat holes in the leaves, the former is more of a nuisance than a dire threat. Avoid them, to some extent, by not growing petunias near other members of the Solanaceae family, especially tomatoes and potatoes.

Plants may droop after a hard rain. They will perk up within hours. Also note that petunias have naturally sticky leaves and stems, so don’t panic and think the condition is disease or pest related.

**Petunias can be a key component of a glorious hanging basket. (photo credit: Eric Hofley / Michigan Gardener)**

Gardening with petunias

Petunias have many uses in the landscape. Edge a perennial border with the more compact multifloras or floribundas. Plant them on the ends of vegetable beds, especially those that contain trellises of beans or cucumbers—they will fill the ground-level space with color that looks particularly attractive against the vegetables’ green foliage. Put petunias in mixed plantings in window boxes or in containers. The cascading or spreading types combine well with salvias and geraniums; grandifloras mix well with sweet alyssum, ivy-leaved geraniums and portulaca.

Petunias make excellent cut flowers; like pansies and zinnias, the more you cut, the more the plants seem to produce. Because their stems are somewhat lax and their leaves are sticky, the flowers are best cut with short stems. Place them in small vases or flower rings, where they will last for 4 to 6 days. As a cut flower, they may add fragrance to a room. Don’t use the blooms as an edible decoration, because the plants are toxic, as are many members of the nightshade family.

Whether you use petunias to edge a flower bed, cover a bare area as a groundcover, spill out of a container or trail from a hanging basket, this annual classic helps keep the garden colorful from late spring through fall.

By the National Garden Bureau.

Identify and eradicate stinging nettle weeds

June 27, 2023 • Leave a Comment

Stinging nettle (Urtica dioica) foliage & flowers (photo credit: MSU Extension) — **Stinging nettle (*Urtica dioica*) foliage & flowers (photo credit: MSU Extension)**

by Bev Moss

We are fighting an ongoing battle with nasty stinging nettle weeds. I pulled them a couple times last year, but they kept coming back. How do we prevent them from returning? K.L., Farmington Hills

Stinging nettles (Urtica dioica) get their nasty rap from the sharp hairs on their leaves. These hairs inject irritants into the skin which then cause swelling and itching. You can neutralize the effects by applying soap, milk, or a diluted solution of baking soda on the affected area.

Looking similar to a stinging nettle, “white dead-nettle” is a hairy perennial with heart-shaped, deeply toothed leaves. Dense whorls of white, hooded flowers appear up the stem, among the leaves. So check www.canr.msu.edu/resources/stinging-nettle-urtica-dioica to make sure you have the right plant.

Pulling nettles only causes root growth as they form a rhizomatic network underground. Your best attack is to cut them off low to the ground before they flower and hand spray a solution of two percent glyphosate to the raw cut. This takes the herbicide to that plant root and prevents regrowth. You may have to do this several times over the course of a season to thoroughly stunt their repeat performance. Any seedlings that pop up can be dug out immediately before they create a mature root system and plant stems.

Check the border areas of your property to insure you do not have a hidden breeding crop. Seeds are plentiful from just one plant and can easily be moved by animal traffic.

Beverly Moss is the owner of Garden Rhythms.

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These handy lists will help you select excellent shrubs and place them in the right spots

Big, multi-season beauties

Big, with one main show

Satisfactorily small and multi-talented

Evergreens

Shine even in shade

Notable spring flowers: Showy before summer solstice

Summer pick-me-ups: Blooms in late June and later

Fragrant

Great fall color

Bait for birds and butterflies

Winter interest

Effective screen or hedge

Color from fruit

Colorful foliage in summer

Long-lived without pruning

Hardiest

Concolor or white fir

Chip and Betsy Erwin generously share the abundant harvest of vegetables and flowers from their superb vegetable garden.

The front yard potager

The backyard garden

Globe thistle

‘American Gold Rush’ black-eyed Susan

These maintenance techniques will keep your flowers neat and profuse

History

Types of petunias

How to grow petunias

Maintenance

Gardening with petunias