ehofley, Author at Michigan Gardener

PLEASE NOTE: In the autumn of 1995, we hatched the idea for a free, local gardening publication. The following spring, we published the first issue of Michigan Gardener magazine. Advertisers, readers, and distribution sites embraced our vision. Thus began an exciting journey of helping our local gardening community grow and prosper.
After 27 years, nearly 200 issues published, and millions of copies printed, we have decided it is time to end the publication of our Print Magazine and E-Newsletter.

Capture your harvest in a jar: Learn to can food safely

August 18, 2011 •

NPR:

Call it a reaction to high food prices, food recalls, and a bad economy. Or just call it retro chic. But there’s no doubt canning is newly trendy among people who a couple of years ago probably didn’t give much thought to what goes into a jar.

According to a recent survey by Opinion Research, 43 percent of consumers interested in canning are ages 18-34. And since 2009, searches for “canning recipes” on allrecipes.com has increased 61 percent during the summer months, says Judith Dern of the popular website.

Read the full story here…

What perennials are good for using in flower bouquets?

August 14, 2011 •

What varieties of perennials would be good for using in flower bouquets?

While this list is not all-inclusive, here are some perennials that are well-suited for arranging: Black-eyed Susan (Rudbeckia), Coneflower (Echinacea), Coreopsis (Tickseed), Delphinium, Dianthus (Pinks, carnations), Iris, Lilies, Lavender, Liatris (Gayfeather or blazing star), Peonies, Phlox (tall), Shasta daisy, Sunflower (Heliopsis), Yarrow (Achillea)

What are good vegetables to grow in a small space?

August 13, 2011 •

I want to start growing vegetables next year, but I have a limited amount of space. Are there any vegetables I should avoid growing because of the space they require?

Without knowing how limited your space actually is, it’s difficult to make any specific recommendations of what to avoid growing due to space constraints. However, items that typically require a lot of room include squashes, pumpkins, melons, corn, and tomatoes that state “indeterminate growth” under the height heading. You will find that many vegetables that are on this list will also occur in dwarf forms that are suitable for smaller gardens. Try types that can grow on fences or trellises, if you have the vertical space. Items such as peas, most beans, and cucumbers are ideally suited for such situations. A combination of smaller varieties as well as climbing varieties will help you to get the most out of your “little plot.”

What aren’t my divided peonies blooming?

August 12, 2011 •

I divided some peonies 2 years ago and they haven’t bloomed since – neither last year, nor this year. Did I do something wrong?

Peonies are notorious for going extended lengths of time without blooming, especially following division or transplanting. They can go up to four years until they bloom again. They are exceptionally hardy, but sometimes take a little while to get their bearings after the roots are disturbed.

One thing to check, however, is the depth at which they are planted. The fleshy part of the roots should be only 1 to 2 inches below the soil surface. If planted any deeper, the plant will not bloom at all. If they are at the proper depth, getting adequate water, and receiving at least 6 hours of sunshine a day, then the best advice is to just sit tight – they will come around.

Overwintering dahlia tubers: How Dahlia Hill does it

August 10, 2011 •

For those readers interested in a little more detail about overwintering dahlias, here is a some more information that expands on the sidebar “Overwintering dahlia tubers: How Dahlia Hill does it” in the August 2011 issue of Michigan Gardener:

After the first hard frost in October, all the dahlia plants are carefully dug up by the Dahlia Hill Society members. Each plant can produce 5 to 20 new tubers, which are very carefully cut off the plant. They are individually labeled with a permanent marker and are rinsed in a light chlorine solution (5% chlorine to water; just enough to kill harmful bacteria). The dahlias are soaked in that solution for about 10 minutes, and then they drip dry on a screen for several minutes.

Next, they are placed into white plastic storage bags, as many as 40 or so in a bag (depending on the size of the tubers), and covered with fine, dry vermiculite. The bags are closed and folded over, but are not made airtight. The tubers are stored alphabetically in large, cardboard boxes, 3 to 6 bags per box. The basement storage room is humid and temperature-controlled to about 55 degrees.

Can I overwinter annual ornamental grasses?

August 6, 2011 •

In containers this season, I planted Pennisetum setaceum ‘Rubrum’ and ‘Burgundy Giant’ (fountain grass) as well as Phormium (New Zealand flax), which are treated as annuals. I don’t have a greenhouse, but can they be overwintered indoors? I successfully overwintered cannas last season.

Around late August, move the ornamental grasses and Phormium into a very shady spot outside and remove any other plant material from the container. Doing this will help your plants acclimate to indoor light conditions. Remember, full sun inside is about the same light as full shade outside. After a few weeks in the shade, remove any plumes from the grasses. Check both the plants and their soil for insects, and spray if needed. Find a location inside where the plants will receive as much sunlight as possible (a south or west exposure is best). Keep in mind that Phormium is a tropical plant and enjoys very warm temperatures, so be very careful to keep it away from drafts. Wait a couple of weeks and prune back the grasses to 6 inches above the soil line (not necessary with Phormium). Be sure to cut back on your watering through the low light, winter months. Next spring, after one more trim, set the plants outside in the shade again and gradually move them into the sunlight over a 2-week period.

Why is my Russian sage flopping to the ground?

August 4, 2011 •

I have 3 Russian sage plants (2 different varieties) planted in partial to full sun. They are 2 to 4 years old. They flop along the ground and will not grow upright. I remember having a Russian sage several years ago that did the same thing. What am I doing wrong?

Russian sage can flop in mid-season, once it has attained the bulk of its normal height. Partial sun conditions can cause the plant to “stretch” a bit, looking for the sun. Such excessive growth can cause the stems to become top-heavy, and then flop.

The plants like a full day of sun when they can get it. Usually 8 hours is best. They are also drought-tolerant once they become established. If they are kept warmer and drier, you’ll frequently find they tend to stay somewhat shorter and more compact, and are more able to hold themselves upright.

There are supports available that consist of a ring that has a grid in it. The plants will grow through this grid, and partially hide it while they grow. So, if you have given Russian sage all the sun that you can, and the plants still flop over, try using one of these supports, or even a regular peony ring.

What is the difference between a “cool season” grass and a “warm season” grass?

August 1, 2011 •

Warm season grasses typically grow actively in the spring and summer, will generally have attractive coloring in the fall, and will go dormant in the winter. Cool season grass experiences it’s period of active growth in the late winter or early spring. They will bloom in the early part of the summer, and then enter a period of dormancy or slow growth later in the summer into the fall. A number of grasses of this type are evergreen.

What are the best conditions for transplanting blueberry bushes?

July 30, 2011 •

We purchased a home that has a yard with two blueberry bushes. The blueberry bushes are in a sun location, isolated from each other and surrounded by our lawn. They are approximately three feet high. Can we transplant these bushes? If so, would they prefer sun or shade, dry soil or compost-rich soil? Also, when is a good time to perform the transplant?

Blueberry plants prefer a moist, rich, acidic soil. The ideal soil should be evenly moist, but not constantly wet or subject to flooding. The soil should be amended with sphagnum peat, compost or other organic matter. The ideal soil pH for blueberries is 4.5 to 6.0. Most of our native soils are much higher than this and will require the addition of sulfur, iron sulfate or aluminum sulfate to lower the pH. A soil test would be helpful to determine the amount of sulfur needed. Transplanting blueberry bushes is best done in early spring before growth begins. The best fruit production is achieved when 2 different varieties are planted close enough for cross-pollination. The plants should be no more than 10 feet apart. Blueberries prefer full sun.

When is the proper time to cut back a butterfly bush and hibiscus?

July 28, 2011 •

I have several butterfly bushes. Are they to be cut back in the winter or the spring? What about hibiscus – should they be cut back?

Butterfly bush and other “woody perennials” such as St. John’s wort (Hypericum) and blue mist spirea (Caryopteris) often require pruning in early spring. In severe winters, the tops are often killed back. Remove any stems that are not leafing out by mid-April. The established root system will quickly return the plant to its normal size. There are several types of hibiscus. The perennial hibiscus noted for its large, dinner plate-size flowers should be cut back in early spring to 4 to 6 inches. The shrub hibiscus, also known as althea or rose of Sharon, does not need to be cut back. It is one of the last shrubs to leaf out, often not doing so until late May.

Related:

Creating habitat for butterflies

Transplanting butterfly bushes

Plant Focus: Blue Mist Spirea (caryopteris)

Pruning caryopteris

Digital Editions