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PLEASE NOTE: In the autumn of 1995, we hatched the idea for a free, local gardening publication. The following spring, we published the first issue of Michigan Gardener magazine. Advertisers, readers, and distribution sites embraced our vision. Thus began an exciting journey of helping our local gardening community grow and prosper.
After 27 years, nearly 200 issues published, and millions of copies printed, we have decided it is time to end the publication of our Print Magazine and E-Newsletter.

Globe thistle

July 18, 2023   •   Leave a Comment

Both the flowers and foliage of globe thistle make a strong impact in the perennial border. (photo credit: Eric Hofley / Michigan Gardener)
Both the flowers and foliage of globe thistle make a strong impact in the perennial border. (photo credit: Eric Hofley / Michigan Gardener)

by George Papadelis

When it comes to durable, non-demanding perennials for sun, several great plants come to mind. Yarrow (Achillea), silver mound (Artemisia), tickseed (Coreopsis), purple coneflower (Echinacea), daylilies, black-eyed Susan (Rudbeckia), and ornamental grasses are just a few of these tough, long-lived gladiators of the perennial border. This list would not be complete without globe thistle (Echinops ritro). Even the worst winters, the hottest summers, and the poorest soil leave this perennial smiling year after year.

Don’t let the word “thistle” in the common name scare you. This one rarely gets out of control and the leaves are also much more gentle than their weedy relatives. This thistle produces clusters of 1- to 2-inch round, steel blue flowers in July that usually last into September. They can grow as short as two feet tall, but more fertile soils can help them grow over four feet tall. The flowers are held well above the showy, large, silvery leaves. As the season progresses, however, the foliage tends to become unattractive, so I recommend planting more pleasing, slightly shorter plants in front. This fact alone makes globe thistle best suited for the back of the perennial border.

Globe thistle has several other uses that should be mentioned. It is often grown for its outstanding cut and dried flowers. Globe thistle can be dried the old-fashioned way by stripping off the leaves, tying the stems together, and hanging them upside down out of the sunlight in a dry and warm attic or garage for 2 to 4 weeks. The dried flowers are then stored in paper bags. Ideally, the best and fastest method of drying the flowers is by packing the blooms carefully in silica gel. This product evaporates the moisture so rapidly that the plant’s form and color are retained extremely well, often months after summer has passed.

Both the flowers and foliage of globe thistle make a strong impact in the perennial border. (photo credit: White Flower Farm)
‘Taplow Blue’ has slightly larger flowers and grows slightly taller. (photo credit: Wayside Gardens)

The unique spherical, blue blooms of globe thistle work well when contrasted with other colors and forms. Daisy-like flowers combine nicely with these, so try placing a purple coneflower in front. Russian sage has tiny lavender flowers and wonderful silver foliage that is a must with blue flowers. For another durable trio, try globe thistle with a pink, mildew-resistant bee balm like ‘Marshall’s Delight’ and the vibrant gold flowers of black-eyed Susan. For a maize and blue look, try positioning the flat, yellow-colored flowers of yarrow (Achillea) in front of your globe thistle. All of these plants are great summer performers that will tolerate poor soil and full sun.

The species globe thistle (Echinops ritro) can be grown easily from seed, but these plants are readily available and relatively inexpensive. Where soil is more fertile, plants may grow tall enough to require staking. Clumps of mature globe thistle should be divided to maintain their vigor and size. This can be done in spring after the plants are at least three years old. Globe thistle can also be used in meadow or prairie plantings where little or no maintenance would be required. Even deer rarely snack on the coarse leaves and tough flowers. However, bees, hummingbirds, and especially butterflies find globe thistle irresistible.

A few varieties are available that have slight variations from the species. ‘Taplow Blue’ has a similar silvery-blue color, but has larger flowers that measure up to three inches across. It usually grows somewhat taller at 4 to 5 feet. For a deeper blue color, try ‘Veitch’s Blue.’ This one is more popular in Europe and boasts larger clusters of flowers on each stem. This one grows about three feet tall. Both of these varieties may be difficult to find locally in garden centers.

The flowers on 'Veitch's Blue' are a deeper blue color. (photo credit: Eric Hofley / Michigan Gardener)
The flowers on ‘Veitch’s Blue’ are a deeper blue color. (photo credit: Eric Hofley / Michigan Gardener)

As you can see, globe thistle is hardy, undemanding, versatile, and useful in the garden. As Ann Lovejoy says in her book The American Mixed Border: “Globe thistles…with their needle-studded flower balls poised on long stalks like so many vegetable maces, have strong garden presence. Even when out of bloom, their great, toothed leaves, rich green backed with gray, rise powerfully amid shrubby-looking peony foliage and grassy daylilies.”

Globe thistle fits nicely into any sunny border or a garden dedicated to cut flowers, hummingbirds, or butterflies. So try it out and don’t be intimidated by its common name—it could be worse: even wormwood, sandwort, and pig squeak are all good plants!


Globe thistle

Botanical name: Echinops ritro (ECK-ih-nops RYE-tro)
Plant type: Perennial
Plant size: Height: 2-5 feet, width: 2-3 feet
Habit: Upright, erect
Hardiness: Zone 3
Flower color: Shades of rich blue
Flower size: 1- to 3-inch diameter
Bloom period: July-September
Leaf color: Silvery, dark green; underside is gray
Leaf size: Length: 6-8 inches, width: 2-4 inches
Light: Full sun
Soil: Best in poor, well-drained soil
Uses: Back of perennial border, cut and dried flowers
Companion plants: Purple coneflower, Russian sage, bee balm, black-eyed Susan
Remarks: Easy to grow. Place smaller plants around base, since foliage becomes unattractive as the season progresses.


George Papadelis is the owner of Telly’s Greenhouse in Troy and Shelby Township, MI.

Related: After the Fall: Late-Season Plant Staking

Elsewhere: Gardening for pollinators: Smart plants to support pollinators

Filed Under: Plant Focus Tagged With: Echinops ritro, globe thistle

2023 Perennial Plant of the Year: ‘American Gold Rush’ black-eyed Susan

June 27, 2023   •   Leave a Comment

‘American Gold Rush’ black-eyed Susan boasts a long season of bright color, from the height of summer up to fall frosts. Golden-yellow flowers feature arching rays and a reddish halo surrounding dark chocolate cones. Three-inch flowers blanket the compact plant, only 22 to 27 inches tall with a broader width to 40 inches if given room to grow. The green leaves and stems are covered in hairs, which gives them a silvery cast. On sunny days, peeking through the blooms to the leaves is a shimmering silver-and-gold sight.

‘American Gold Rush’ is an excellent focal point in perennial borders and combines well with ornamental grasses.
‘American Gold Rush’ is an excellent focal point in perennial borders and combines well with ornamental grasses. (photo credit: Intrinsic Perennial Gardens)

More than just boosting the ornamental show, the hairy foliage is resistant to septoria leaf spot—a debilitating fungal disease that causes unsightly black spotting and premature seasonal decline on some black-eyed Susans. In fact, ‘American Gold Rush’ is a great substitute for the popular ‘Goldsturm’ rudbeckia, which is highly susceptible to leaf spotting.

‘American Gold Rush’ displays a long blooming season on a compact plant.
‘American Gold Rush’ displays a long blooming season on a compact plant. (photo credit: www.PerennialResource.com)

A reliable, hardy perennial, ‘American Gold Rush’ is a superb focal point in perennial borders and meadows, and is also brilliant when massed. Butterflies flutter around the blooms and songbirds feast on the plentiful seed long after the flowers have passed. The seed heads provide winter interest too. Garden companions are many, including alliums, asters, salvias, and native grasses such as little bluestem (Schizachyrium scoparium) and prairie dropseed (Sporobolus heterolepis).

Golden-yellow flowers feature arching rays.
Golden-yellow flowers feature arching rays. (photo credit: Intrinsic Perennial Gardens)

‘American Gold Rush’ black-eyed Susan

Botanical name: Rudbeckia hybrid
Size:  22-27 inches tall and up to 40 inches wide. 
Light: Full sun to partial shade.
Soil: Average, well-drained soils. Adaptable to clay, alkaline or acid pH, and gravelly soils. May flop in rich, fertile soils.
Hardiness: Zone 4.
Maintenance: A low-maintenance perennial. Cut back in late winter to early spring. Good heat- and drought-resistance once established. Reseeding does occur. Divide as needed to maintain a robust habit.
Origin: Originated from open-pollinated seed sown from the seed parent Rudbeckia fulgida var. deamii.

Related: What are some suggestions for deer-resistant plants?

Elsewhere: More photos of Rudbeckia ‘American Gold Rush’

Filed Under: Plant Focus Tagged With: american gold rush, black eyed susan, Rudbeckia

How-to deadhead, cut back, and pinch flowers

June 27, 2023   •   Leave a Comment

These maintenance techniques will keep your flowers neat and profuse

by Steven Nikkila

To deadhead is to remove spent flowers. To cut back is to remove spent flowering stalks and foliage after a plant’s effective bloom season has finished (see photos 1 and 2).

Sea pinks (Armeria maritima) before deadheading.
Photo 1: Sea pinks (Armeria maritima) before deadheading.
Sea pinks after deadheading.
Photo 2: Sea pinks after deadheading.

Deadhead and/or cut back to keep the garden neater and more colorful. It prevents seed formation, which in turn may prolong a plant’s flower production cycle. It reduces the amount of ripening, brown seed pods and stems, making the scene more green and lush. Finally, it limits the number of seeds that fall in the garden. Fewer seeds means fewer problems with prolific seed producers that can become weeds through self-sowing (see photo 3).

This variegated heartleaf forget-me-not (Brunnera macrophylla 'Variegata') has far more seed pods than flowers at this point in its flowering cycle. Now is a good time to cut back this flowering stem.
Photo 3: This variegated heartleaf forget-me-not (Brunnera macrophylla ‘Variegata’) has far more seed pods than flowers at this point in its flowering cycle. Now is a good time to cut back this flowering stem.

The simplest deadheading is to remove each flower as the petals fade, leaving developing flower buds behind. Flowers and buds may be in clusters, with buds tight against the faded flowers. To remove each flower in a cluster as it finishes may be more detail work than you care to do. In that case, remove each cluster when the number of spent flowers exceeds the number of buds remaining in the group or on the stem (see photos 4 and 5).

Pointing out spent flowers on Jacob's ladder (Polemonium caeruleum).
Photo 4: Pointing out spent flowers on Jacob’s ladder (Polemonium caeruleum).
Jacob's ladder flower buds that remain after deadheading the spent blossoms.
Photo 5: Jacob’s ladder flower buds that remain after deadheading the spent blossoms.

To cut back, note where new sprouts tend to develop on the type of plant you are dealing with. Remove the entire flowering stem, cutting just above a husky stem or node. The thicker the remaining stem, the thicker any new flowering shoot will be. Sometimes new foliage and sprouts are produced only at the very base of the plant, so cutting back will severely reduce the plant’s overall height. This is fine if more foliage is left at the base than is removed in cutting back (see photos 6 and 7).

Where to cut back old flowering stalks on meadow rue (Thalictrum aquilegiifolium).
Photo 6: Where to cut back old flowering stalks on meadow rue (Thalictrum aquilegiifolium).
Meadow rue flowering stalk with buds left for later bloom.
Photo 7: Meadow rue flowering stalk with buds left for later bloom.

Pinching is a pre-bloom season technique to stall off flowering and make a plant bushier. It is often done to fall-blooming mums, but many other late summer and fall-blooming perennials can be pinched as well, including asters (Aster novae-angliae, Aster novi-belgii and others), hardy hibiscus (Hibiscus moscheutos), balloon flower (Platycodon grandiflorus), turtlehead (Chelone obliqua), and sneezeweed (Helenium autumnale). To pinch, cut off stem tips, removing up to 1/3 of the plant’s foliage (see photos 8 and 9). New branches will sprout from nodes lower on the stem, making several new tips where there was one before pinching. A pinched stem will tend to set a larger number of flowers than a stem left alone, though individual flowers will be smaller (see photo 10).

New England aster (Aster novae-angliae), roughly gauging it in thirds.
New England aster (Aster novae-angliae), roughly gauging it in thirds.
New England aster after pinching the top third off.
Photo 9: New England aster after pinching the top third off.

Plants can be pinched several times during the growing season. It is said that mums should be pinched “3 times by the 4th” (of July). New stems (with new flower buds) tend to take 3 to 6 weeks to appear after the pinch, and flowers open after 2 to 4 more weeks of development, so it’s best to make your last pinches no later than early August.

This aster tip has had its leaves removed, to let you see the side shoots that will develop into new flowering shoots.
Photo 10: This aster tip has had its leaves removed, to let you see the side shoots that will develop into new flowering shoots.

Article and photos by Steven Nikkila, www.gardenatoz.com.

Related: Growing low-maintenance vegetables

Elsewhere: Summer flower care keeps your plants blooming strong

Filed Under: How-To Tagged With: cut back, deadhead, flowers, maintenance, pinch

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