Archive for the Website Extras department

Web Extra: Hop on board the garden railroad

March 28, 2014 • 4 Comments

To read the full article by Sandie Parrott on Sean Rosenkrans’ garden railroad, pick up a copy of the April, 2014 issue of Michigan Gardener in stores or find it in our digital edition.

Captions and photos by Sandie Parrott

Rosenkrans controls all the trains from his transformer platform. Moisture or anything else on the rails means he has to regularly clean them and adjust speeds to keep the trains moving.

A “steam” locomotive pulls flat cars with logs through a forested lumber camp (evergreens and seedlings), with the village in the background. The scene includes a sawmill with a handmade sawdust burner, campsite with tent, campers and hungry bears, and a covered bridge.

The hippodrome is the main circus building along with fortune teller and ticket booths, a merry-go-round, and gnome village. Animals, performers, and visitors complete the scene.

The bathroom garden began when a neighbor was throwing away an old sink. Rosenkrans hung it on an old door with a mirror and added a pump for washing hands. The tub came from another neighbor’s remodeling project. Now it has a pump and helps to water plants. The commode was found by the side of the road. Hostas are planted in the bowl and pansies in the tank.

Web Extra: Pruning to make great evergreens

October 31, 2013 • Leave a Comment

To read the full article by Janet Macunovich on pruning evergreens, pick up a copy of the Nov/Dec, 2013 issue of Michigan Gardener in stores or find it in our digital edition.

Captions by Janet Macunovich / Photos by Steven Nikkila

Even a tiny branch (circled) has great potential. Once clipping changes its position from shaded interior to sunny outer edge, this wimpy twig can become a husky, densely feathered leader.

Evergreen pruning can be done at any time. I can even thin at one time, and cut back overall at a different time. I take advantage of that in winter when we need long branches for decorations. Look at all the great cuttings I've gathered just from thinning this boxwood (left) and these hollies (right). — Evergreen pruning can be done at any time. I can even thin at one time, and cut back overall at a different time. I take advantage of that in winter when we need long branches for decorations. Look at all the great cuttings I’ve gathered just from thinning this boxwood (left) and these hollies (right).

Work with the natural shape of the plant and you can do all the cutting at once, using pruners. Most stems are clipped by one year's growth. The thickest are cut by two years'. These shrubs were a matched set five minutes ago. They will be again in five more minutes once I've clipped the one on the left. — Work with the natural shape of the plant and you can do all the cutting at once, using pruners. Most stems are clipped by one year’s growth. The thickest are cut by two years’. These shrubs were a matched set five minutes ago. They will be again in five more minutes once I’ve clipped the one on the left.

If a shrub has become too big (photo 1), I wait until early spring to cut and thin. For instance, I cut and thinned these boxwoods shortly after budbreak (photo 2). At other times all this previously sheltered wood and foliage would have been suddenly exposed to summer heat or wintry cold. Such quick changes can kill leaves and make wood die back even further than it was cut. Recovery was well underway in August of that same year (photo 3).

Website Extra: The artistic country garden

May 31, 2013 • 1 Comment

The garden of Judy and Larry Rowe reflects their love of art and creativity

To read the full profile on Judy and Larry Rowe, pick up a copy of the June, 2013 issue of Michigan Gardener in stores or find it in our digital edition.

Photos by Sandie Parrott

Purchased from a neighbor, this manure spreader is the center of attention in the front yard, along with a white dogwood (Cornus florida ‘Weaver’s White’) and a pink-purple rhododendron (‘Elsie Lee’).

Larry made the arbor for this corner garden that sits next to their sunroom where they relax and listen to singing birds playing in the water. There are two ‘Jackmanii’ clematis on the arbor, several hostas, and two Alberta spruces for seclusion.

Larry made the wishing well from an old barbeque grill. The arbor Larry also made is covered with clematis, while clay drain tiles serve as a border. Insulators line the paths to keep hoses out of the gardens and prickly pear cactus (Opuntia humifusa), hardy in Michigan, surrounds a planted cactus dish garden.

Judy collects cacti, even though most are not hardy in Michigan and must be taken inside. The pot of succulents is made of five drain tiles turned upside down and wired together to form a flower shape. The display is crowned by a hypertufa pot made by a fellow Master Gardener.

Website Extra: Janet’s Journal – Give your garden a raise

May 31, 2013 • Leave a Comment

Photos by Steven Nikkila

For the full article on raised garden beds by Janet Macunovich, pickup a copy of the June, 2013 issue of Michigan Gardener in stores or find it in our digital edition.

Most landscapes offer the possibility of building raised beds from recycled material. For example, we removed the raised beds constructed at this house as an accent edging 30 years ago. The pressure treated lumber was mostly intact. We couldn't pull out the spikes that held it together, so we sawed it into sections intending to haul it away. We reconsidered when we learned there would be an extra charge to dispose of it since it could not be accepted at the organic waste site. — Most landscapes offer the possibility of building raised beds from recycled material. For example, we removed the raised beds constructed at this house as an accent edging 30 years ago. The pressure treated lumber was mostly intact. We couldn’t pull out the spikes that held it together, so we sawed it into sections intending to haul it away. We reconsidered when we learned there would be an extra charge to dispose of it since it could not be accepted at the organic waste site.

In the back yard at the same house, a steeply sloping corner that ccalready begun filling the area with sod and soil cut out in other projects in the yard. The plan had been to retain this bed with straw bales now, replacing them with a fieldstone wall once funds were available. We revised that to reuse the lumber.

It was a puzzle to piece together the lumber we'd pulled out of the front beds in this new space, but simple math assured us there was enough to make the missing third edge of this triangular raised bed. So now, the earth holds two sides of the bed and we've retained the third with a wall that should last at least five years and probably much longer. No more mowing headaches—just a deep raised bed. — It was a puzzle to piece together the lumber we’d pulled out of the front beds in this new space, but simple math assured us there was enough to make the missing third edge of this triangular raised bed. So now, the earth holds two sides of the bed and we’ve retained the third with a wall that should last at least five years and probably much longer. No more mowing headaches—just a deep raised bed.

Mortared brick raised beds are worth considering if regular and varied pressure will affect the sides. That's often the case at botanical gardens where many people perch there regularly and wheeled vehicles frequently pass and occasionally bump the beds. — Mortared brick raised beds are worth considering if regular and varied pressure will affect the sides. That’s often the case at botanical gardens where many people perch there regularly and wheeled vehicles frequently pass and occasionally bump the beds.

As with wood, use some imagination and mixed stone can be recycled too. Karen and George Thompson made their steep slope into this large, safe garden by cleverly combining two sets of salvaged blocks plus a few bricks.

George works out a pattern... — George works out a pattern…

...and settles on this elegant solution. Note the brick and block combination on the lowest terrace. — …and settles on this elegant solution. Note the brick and block combination on the lowest terrace.

Profile Website Extra: More photos of Bob Grese’s garden

May 7, 2013 • 1 Comment

Continued from page 50 of the May 2013 issue.

Photos by Sandie Parrott

Bob Grese tends to a witch hazel tree (Hamamelis virginiana). Native Americans used the tree bark to treat sores, tumors, skin ulcers, sore muscles, coughs, and colds. Yellow blooms in early spring and yellow fall color make this a beautiful tree.

The striking plumes of bottlebrush grass (Elymus hystrix) in late summer are beautiful in any garden setting.

Grese grew Yukon Gold potatoes in what is typically called a grow bag. They are great reusable containers for vegetables and now come in many colors and sizes.

One of Grese’s favorites is prairie dock (Silphium terebinthinaceum). “I love the broad leaves and tall stalks. The leaves orient on a north-south axis and are wonderful backlit against the sun. The coarse texture is an effective contrast with fine-leaved plants,” he described.

Janet’s Journal Website Extra: More edging photos and advice

May 1, 2013 • Leave a Comment

Continued from page 54 of the May 2013 issue.

Photos by Steven Nikkila

Practical and pretty: This raised brick edge keeps loose material in the beds, nudges feet aside, and looks great in this traditional herb garden at Cranbrook House and Gardens in Bloomfield Hills, Michigan.

There are no plants surrounding these beds at the Detroit Zoo so there’s no reason to install a root barrier. Yet there is need for a foot barrier in a place so heavily trafficked. Weathered logs and dead branches are used because it's readily available material that's in keeping with the overall landscape, where wood from pruning or tree removal is used in exhibits as animal enrichment. — There are no plants surrounding these beds at the Detroit Zoo so there’s no reason to install a root barrier. Yet there is need for a foot barrier in a place so heavily trafficked. Weathered logs and dead branches are used because it’s readily available material that’s in keeping with the overall landscape, where wood from pruning or tree removal is used in exhibits as animal enrichment.

Metal can be longer lasting than plastic edging but it is just as likely to be forced up out of the ground if not set in well to begin.

Enjoy the look but don't rely on small fence or edge sections to block weeds. Even if they are deep enough to thwart the adjacent lawn or groundcover, they'll need help at the seams. — Enjoy the look but don’t rely on small fence or edge sections to block weeds. Even if they are deep enough to thwart the adjacent lawn or groundcover, they’ll need help at the seams.

Janet’s Journal Website Extra: Wattle wisdom and step-by-step to make Tollgate Twist

March 28, 2013 • Leave a Comment

Continued from page 42 of the April 2013 issue.

Photos by Steven Nikkila

This basic wattle weave in and out of sturdy cedar posts will last at least 4 years and then only the withes will need to be replaced.

Priscilla Needle, Paul Needle, Debi Slentz, and others from our Detroit Zoo volunteer group harvest redtwig dogwood for wattle. It’s best to use fresh clippings, which remain flexible. However, cold storage that
prevents dehydration can extend the wood’s useful life. On this January day we seized an opportunity to cut a quantity of redtwig dogwood although we would not weave until April. It was a gamble but paid off in withes still quite flexible and ready when we were on April 1.

Making the Tollgate Twist

Materials needed:

Cut stems such as dogwood, willow, kerria, spirea, etc. in 4- to 5-foot lengths. Must be fresh, cut recently enough or stored cool enough to retain their flexibility.
A hammer or mallet and sturdy stake or pipe to punch post holes.
Biodegradable twine.

1. Set three-part posts at 15-inch intervals along the desired fence line. Each three-part post consists of:

a. Two flexible weaving wands, 48 inches or greater. If the bottom 18 inches is rigid, not flexible, that’s okay but everything above that must bend easily. If the weaving wand has side branches you will treat the wand plus its twigs as one bundled unit.

b. One stout stake, its top at the desired finished height of the fence.

c. All with their butt ends securely seated in drilled or punched holes about 6 inches deep. Depth of the holes depends on soil type and finished fence height. Looser soil and taller fences need deeper holes.

2. Select a new 3- to 5-foot wand and weave it in and out around 3 or 4 posts. If this wand has side branches, treat it as one bundled unit. Pass alternately behind and in front of three-posts, and thread between each post and one of its weavers.

3. Grasp the left-side weaving wand of post group A. Bend it to meet B, the next post to the right. Wrap down and around the three branches that make up post B, beginning between post B’s stout stake and left-side weaving wand. Wrap around the horizontal wand. Leave this weaver wand’s tip trailing on the ground. If a wand should crack, don’t let it break through completely, or replace it if it does.

4. Now bend and weave post B’s right-hand weaving stem to the left. Thread it between post A and its free weaver, then wrap around that post group.

5. Weave to connect 4 or 5 posts. Then insert another 3- to 5-foot wand horizontally, as in #2, overlapping the first horizontal by half and alternating with it by weaving in and out between the posts.

6. Bend trailing tips of all weaving wands up to wrap around and run with horizontal wands. Tie with twine at intervals as necessary, or snug the wand tips into portions already woven.

7. Insert more 3-part posts and keep weaving.

Website Extra: Asian Inspired Garden

March 28, 2013 • Leave a Comment

Continued from page 36 of the April 2013 issue.

Photos by Sandie Parrott

Rita calls this her tiger lily walk. Many were donated by friends. As a girl, Rita loved to go and pick them in the fields and present them to her mother. She loves the mass effect and passes along extras to her friends.

Slag sand pathways allow the Cohens and visitors to stroll the garden. The red color of the bridge sets off the garden and adds the traditional feature of a Chinese garden, which some Japanese gardens have adopted. Japanese gardens typically have natural wood or stone bridges.

This view is full of texture: a little wire animal perches on a stone bench while the stark driftwood piece draws the eye upward to the massive old sugar maple tree. Tiny-leaved creeping thyme groundcover anchors the scene.

Website Extra: Planting on a hill

August 31, 2012 • Leave a Comment

To read the full Janet’s Journal, “Anti-gravity gardening: Planting on a hill,” pick up a copy of Michigan Gardener (in stores by Sept 5) or check out page 32 in our e-edition of the September/October Issue.

Stones meant to slow water’s fall, reinforce or retain a hill
should not sit on the surface where they can slip.

In the series above, a stone placed on a step cut to lean back into the hill. The next stone also leans back, and its face is set back away from vertical. Given stones stacked across the face of the hill, this setback would create a “battered” retaining wall. A batter of 1” back for each 12” rise stabilizes a retaining wall.

At the Royal Botanical Garden in Edinburgh, Scotland, this 1.75:1 slope (57 percent) features artistically placed boulders but the main retainers are plants.

Those of us who garden on relatively flat lands may gape at how slopes are handled in hillier regions. Once you know something about terracing, you may focus as much on the ways this feat is accomplished as on the unusual plants you see in faraway places. Residents’ attitudes toward hills and their skill in dealing with them can be worth note, too. That is, the residents of up-and-down neighborhoods in the foothills of California’s San Bernardino Mountains regularly stabilize long, steep hills solely with plants such as these rambler roses and honeysuckle vines.

Website Extra: The Garden is a Classroom

June 29, 2012 • 4 Comments

To read the full story on Atwood Elementary, pick up a copy of Michigan Gardener (in stores now) or check out page 28 in our e-edition of the July Issue.

atwood-elementary-school-abc-garden — Some examples in the ABC garden at Atwood Elementary: A (aster), B (black-eyed Susan), C (cardinal flower), D (daisy), E (eggplant), H (hollyhock), and J (Jacob’s ladder).

atwood-elementary-oregano-smell-my-leaves — ”We have several chalkboard notes near the ABC plants to invite children, parents, teachers and visitors to a new plant or a new fact about a plant,” said garden coordinator Sandy Paratore.

atwood-elementary-a-maze-garden-plants — The “A”maze garden has two entrances and lots of plants in the small maze.

All photos by Sandie Parrott

Digital Edition

Archive for the Website Extras department

The garden of Judy and Larry Rowe reflects their love of art and creativity

Making the Tollgate Twist

Stones meant to slow water’s fall, reinforce or retain a hill should not sit on the surface where they can slip.

Stones meant to slow water’s fall, reinforce or retain a hill
should not sit on the surface where they can slip.