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Archive for the growing tag

Ask MG: Growing apples in Michigan

March 7, 2018   •   Leave a Comment

What are the causes of apples dropping from trees prematurely while still very small? Is malathion a safe, readily available treatment for apple trees after the petals fall? Can you recommend a book for growing apples in Michigan? D.E.

Premature fruit drop can be natural, environmental, or pest-related and it takes some careful observation to determine which category yours falls into. An early apple drop before the fruit has matured may be the result of an overproduction of fruit by the tree. The plant simply cannot support the continued nourishment for such a vast number. Profuse flowering and extensive pollination can cause this overproduction beyond what the tree can sustain. Subsequently, it “sheds” a few pounds of excess fruit to conserve energy in a natural thinning process. Some fruit tree growers will even manually thin a tree to increase the quality and size of the final product, beating the tree to the punch.

Premature fruit drop can be environmentally stimulated by unfavorable conditions like frost, excessive heat or cold, or drastic changes in humidity. Living in Michigan, any of those conditions are quite possible in the flower to fruit cycle. Since symptoms can also be soil-related, it is important to check your regularity of watering and that the proper nutrition is offered the tree at the root zone. A soil test geared toward fruit tree production would zero in on those nutrients and their correct proportions. You can obtain a soil test kit from your county’s MSU Extension.

Another environmental occurrence is herbicide drift. Never apply herbicides in windy or dead calm conditions. Dead calm is often associated with a phenomenon known as temperature inversion. Contrary to popular belief, spraying under such conditions can actually increase drift distance. The culprit spray may be several yards away, making it difficult to pinpoint the source.

Pest-related fruit drop occurs much later in the season, when the fruit is very near maturity. So insect pests are probably not the reason for your premature drop.

As for the application of malathion, a readily available insecticide for homeowner use, proceed with caution. Make certain you correctly identify the pest, that the insect pest exists on your apple trees and that it is doing damage before arbitrarily applying any insecticide. Malathion is particularly effective against leafrollers and codling moths, which can damage apples, and must be applied at specific intervals. All label instructions and cautions should be followed to the letter if applying it yourself. A better choice would be to contact a certified arborist for an accurate diagnosis and treatment. Oftentimes beneficial insects can be eliminated from nature’s cycle in the homeowner’s fury to protect their plants.

For Michigan apple growing information, contact the your county’s MSU Extension and obtain how-to bulletins on tree fruit. For a nominal cost, you will get targeted, science-based information on Michigan climate, the best apple varieties, and proper techniques to successfully grow apples in Michigan.

Filed Under: Ask MG Tagged With: apple, growing, malathion, Michigan

A guide to growing and harvesting vegetables in the fast lane

April 25, 2015   •   Leave a Comment

Cherry Belle radishes. (Flickr / Ripplestone Garden)
Cherry Belle radishes. (Flickr / Ripplestone Garden)

The Salt at NPR.org:

Yes, it is true that gardening requires patience.

But face it, we live in an impatient world. And gardeners everywhere were depressed by the brutal and endless winter.

So we are understandably eager to get sowing. And to see results by … well, if not next Thursday, then maybe mid-May?

There are two ways to make this happen. Some garden varieties naturally have a short germinate-to-harvest cycle. Then there are the hybrids developed at universities and seed companies. They take two plants with great traits (like early arrival or cold tolerance) and forge an even hardier offspring.

For guidance on the world of speedy plot-to-table vegetables, we turned to Ryan Schmitt, a horticulturist and garden blogger in Longmont, Colo., and Weston Miller, a community and urban horticulturist for the Oregon State University Extension Service.

Read the rest of the story…

Filed Under: Clippings Tagged With: fast, germination, growing, Harvest, speedy, vegetables

Tips for Overwintering and Growing Raspberries in Michigan

November 20, 2010   •   

I am growing raspberries a small patch of raspberry bushes. I have cut them back for the fall. I would like to know what I need to do to care for these plants. What should I amend the soil with and in what season? I have a lot of clay in my soil, but have amended it with my compost over the years.

Since you have already cut your raspberry canes back, I presume you have autumn-fruiting varieties. Their annual cycle is maintained by pruning all of the canes to ground level each winter. If not cut back, they fruit again. A bigger crop is gained from strong new canes. Generally it is best to do any pruning in late winter, when the plant is dormant. A sheltered site is advisable, but one that also has good air circulation. Walls and fences do not provide that. Raspberries are very prone to viral diseases, although there are new varieties more resistant to these inherent problems. There is no cure for viral diseases. The plants must be dug up and discarded. Any suckers from overlooked root fragments must be removed and the bed not replanted with raspberries for at least five years.

If your canes survive the winter, apply a general fertilizer along the rows in March. Water it in and apply a mulch layer of well-rotted compost, which will keep the soil cool and moist in the summer and hold down weeds. Peat and bark are less effective than good compost. Raspberries are a thirsty crop and must be watered regularly, especially when fruit is swelling. Although your soil has considerable clay, your amendment with compost is right on track. Amended clay is a far more preferable soil base for raspberries than a sandy loam. A sand-based soil drains too quickly for this fruit crop’s needs. Opt for a drip hose to avoid excessive water on the leaves. When cultivating out weeds, avoid hoeing too deeply and damaging roots growing near the surface. This will stimulate the plant to sucker, a survival technique, since it thinks it’s under attack.

Elsewhere: Recommended storage and use tips for your fresh raspberries

Related: Why didn’t my blueberry plants produce blossoms or fruit?

Filed Under: Ask MG Tagged With: growing, Michigan, raspberries

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