Once again this year, my impatiens grew to about 24″ tall (they are in dappled shade). I fertilized occasionally with Bloom Builder, which has a higher proportion of phosphorous. The quality and quantity of the blooms were very good, but not quite as prolific as the low-growing types I have seen. Are there specific varieties of impatiens that are low-growing, and if so, what are some of the names? If not, what can I do to encourage lower, bushier growth?

Understand that the amount of shade will directly effect the height and bud count on all varieties of impatiens.

Since the sun is a natural growth retardant, plants tend to stay shorter and will have considerably more flower power. If you are dealing with heavier shade and desire shorter plants, try spacing impatiens further apart when planting next spring. Impatiens are natural spreaders, forming a low ground cover…but once they grow together the growth goes up instead of out. If you are used to a 6 inch spacing, try an 8 inch spacing to prolong the bushiness and control height for a longer period.

There are several shorter varieties of impatiens. Both the Super Elfin and Accent series are heavy bloomers, come in a wide assortment of colors, and stay shorter than other varieties.

Where do slugs inhabit during the day? I never see them when turning and working the soil in my garden, yet my hostas have the typical holes that slugs chew. Since they move so slowly, I wondered how far and from where they travel to feast on my plants.

Slugs have become a common pest in Michigan gardens. They are not insects, but rather members of the mollusk family, which is related to clams, oysters and octopuses. Slugs are similar to snails, but they have no visible shell. Their bodies require moisture and dry out quickly in the sun. For that reason, they hide during the day and come out to feed at night or during cloudy, rainy weather. Slugs move slowly, relying on a large foot for locomotion. They secrete a slimy mucus that eventually hardens behind them, leaving a visible trail.

Their hiding places include rocks, boards, leaves and other damp areas. They will use crevices and holes made by other creatures such as earthworms. As long as their resting place remains moist, they may travel the same route to their food source each night.

Slugs also need moist, shady areas to lay their eggs. Egg masses can hatch in 2-4 weeks or remain dormant for a very long time if dry conditions persist. They reach maturity in 5 months to 2 years. They feed on a wide variety of vegetation, but do have their preferences. As many gardeners know, hostas, with their dense canopy of foliage, are one of their favorites.

This spring, I planted climbing roses that are now weaving through a supporting trellis. I have read where the canes should be removed from the trellis, laid down, and mulched for winter protection. Is this necessary? (Besides the hassle, I am worried that I might break the canes when I untwine them from the trellis).  If it is necessary, what do people do with their climbing roses when they are a few years old and there are numerous, thick canes?

Climbing roses should be given some amount of winter protection in order to assure survival during Michigan winters. Climbing roses planted in open, exposed areas, especially those receiving northwest winter winds, should be treated as described in the question.

Removing the canes from the trellis, laying them down, and covering them with soil is a little extra work, but it is the best way to protect the rose and your investment. Climbing roses in less exposed areas can be protected by wrapping the canes with burlap and mounding soil over the crown of the plant.

Wait until the leaves have browned and the plant has gone dormant before initiating any winter protection measures. This is usually late November for our climate. Remove the winter protection prior to growth in the spring. Covering too early or leaving the rose covered too late in the spring can both harm the plant and reduce its chance of overwintering successfully.

Are there any Japanese maples that do well in dappled shade? If not, could you suggest a few that might at least tolerate dappled shade – I would like to experiment with one or two.

Most Japanese maples (Acer palmatum) will tolerate a partial shade exposure; however, color and growth rate may be reduced. Japanese maples planted in a shade environment will not exhibit the same color intensity as those planted in the sun. Further, fall color intensity is often reduced. For best results, plant a green-leafed cultivar such as ‘Viridis.’

I planted Stella D’Oro lilies so that I would have constant bloom all summer long, since this is what they are supposed to do. However, mine bloom for about a month and then stop entirely. They then form large, green pods.  Should I be removing these pods?  Also, any tips on how to extend the blooming period?

First of all, you need to be aware that Stella D’Oro is not a continued bloomer, but rather a repeat bloomer. This means that it should bloom again for you later in the season, but not continuously all season long.

As far as general culture and routine care are concerned, removing the young seed pods should allow the plant more energy to develop new flowers rather than seeds. Also, for the greatest number of flowers, daylilies need to be fed in early spring and again in summer with a balanced fertilizer at the recommended rate. Although daylilies thrive in sun or shade, they bloom the best if they are in sunlight at least half the day.

Finally, to maintain vigor and flower size, daylilies should be divided every three to five years. You can do this anytime, but you would probably want to wait until plants go dormant in the fall.

After poppies are done blooming, what should I do with the dark brown heads – should they be cut off immediately, this fall, or not until next spring?

Once poppy flower petals have fallen, it is best to remove the seed head as soon as possible. Cut the flower stem as close to the base of the foliage as you can. Since the plant does not have to form seed, it can now spend its energy developing a larger, more vigorous plant for next spring.

I’ve seen those water absorbing crystals that you can add to containers to help them retain moisture. Can I also use these crystals in regular beds of annuals? (I travel a lot and it’s tough to keep them watered on a regular basis).

Many gardeners have discovered that adding moisture-absorbing polymers to their planting mixes reduces watering frequently during the hot summer months…a big help with hanging baskets and outdoor pots.

These crystals look a lot like grains of salt when dry. They absorb many times their weight in water and swell into something that looks like a bite size piece of jello. In the soil, these crystals capture and store water, releasing it as needed to thirsty plants.

Their use need not be restricted only to containers. These polymers can make your summer watering chores much easier…especially if you have a fast-drying, sandy soil type. In general, about six pounds of polymer crystals should be added per 1000 square feet. One application lasts several months.

I have a large pot in which I planted petunias last summer. Can I reuse the soil in the pot to plant again this summer?

It is not recommended to reuse soil for more than one season if you use a heavy topsoil type mix. However, many “soiless” types of potting mixes, which are made up of Canadian peat, perlite and vermiculite can be partially reused if you follow these easy steps. Empty the soil from the containers into a large wheelbarrow. Break up any clumps of soil and gently turn mix with your hands. Let the soil air out in a dry place for 12 hours. Add the equivalent amount of fresh potting soil to your old mix to replenish nutrients that were lost over the season.

When planting annuals, I have seen and read that you should pinch off the flowers when you plant them. This supposedly prevents the flowers from going to seed so that the annual can spend its energy creating more and fuller blooms. Is this true? If so, are there any annuals that shouldn’t be pinched back?

Removing the flowers at the time of planting lets annuals concentrate their efforts on establishing healthy roots and vegetative growth. This procedure also helps pave the way for an abundance of flowers. Basically, all annuals will benefit from removing the blooms, including flower types such as snapdragons, salvia and zinnias.