Michigan Gardener

SIGN UP to stay in touch!
We will send you occasional e-mails with gardening tips and information!


Digital Editions

Click on the cover to read now!

  • Home
  • Departments
    • Ask MG
    • Books
    • Clippings
    • Garden Snapshots
    • MG in the News
    • Janet’s Journal
    • Plant Focus
    • Profile
    • Raising Roses
    • Thyme for Herbs
    • Tools and Techniques
    • Tree Tips
  • Garden Event Calendar
  • Resources
    • Alternatives to Impatiens
    • Garden Help
    • Soil and Mulch Calculator
    • Public Gardens
  • Web Extras
  • About
    • About Us
    • Editorial Content
    • Privacy Policy
    • Contact Us

PLEASE NOTE: In the autumn of 1995, we hatched the idea for a free, local gardening publication. The following spring, we published the first issue of Michigan Gardener magazine. Advertisers, readers, and distribution sites embraced our vision. Thus began an exciting journey of helping our local gardening community grow and prosper.
After 27 years, nearly 200 issues published, and millions of copies printed, we have decided it is time to end the publication of our Print Magazine and E-Newsletter.

Janet’s Journal: Age Before Beauty?

May 1, 2013   •   3 Comments

Lovers of old gardens can grow the species that can’t be rushed. False indigo (Baptisia australis) is one long-lived perennial that has to be planted, given room, and nearly forgotten before it “takes,” surprising us one May with a spectacular show.
Lovers of old gardens can grow the species that can’t be rushed. False indigo (Baptisia australis) is one long-lived perennial that has to be planted, given room, and nearly forgotten before it “takes,” surprising us one May with a spectacular show.

By Janet Macunovich / photos by Steven Nikkila

As a garden grows, so grows the gardener.

I spent a summer in England, ostensibly as nanny to a four year old niece. There, the brothers Cameron changed my life. These men—I never knew their first names, addressing both as “Mr. Cameron”—were caretakers of a church in Shenley Church End, Buckinghamshire. A Cameron had been the church caretaker, lived in that home, and tended the walled cottage garden since the late 1600’s.

My first visit was in early June when the elder Cameron found me studying headstones in the church graveyard. He asked me into the garden for tea. I invited myself back to talk flowers, and returned throughout the summer to run wheelbarrow and dig for the two, then 70 and 80 years old.

Back home in Michigan that fall, I dug over the garden I’d left behind and planned to change it from rows of vegetables and annuals to perennials. It went fallow into the winter, insulated under a thick layer of leaves, ready for a grand metamorphosis. I spent that winter buried in catalogues, searching out the seeds of plants I’d coveted through the summer, unaware of how much I myself was changing.

Sweet alyssum and thyme sow themselves in this path and are selectively weeded.
Sweet alyssum and thyme sow themselves in this path and are selectively weeded.

Now, more than a quarter century has passed and with it the Camerons’ garden and even Shenley Church End—swallowed in a conglomerate community called Milton Keynes. The church is closed, lost in a hard-to-find siding off the new traffic flow. Looking into the walled yard attached to the deserted caretaker’s house, you see only the field grass and weeds that come to abandoned ground everywhere.

Yet the inspiration I took from that delightful garden still grows.

Initially, I mistook its nature.

I worked happily in my garden for years, thinking to reproduce the plants, the sitting areas, the gracefully trained vines of the Camerons’ retreat. I felt some regret as my palate expanded to include species that were probably never available to the Camerons—it seemed I would leave their garden behind. After several seasons more, I was surprised to see that the similarities between what had developed here in Waterford and what had been there in Buckinghamshire were still greater than the differences. I understood then that my real goal had been and still was to recreate the feeling of that English garden, not a replica of its beds.

Only time and the environment can weave such intricate, engaging patterns where one spreading plant meets another. Golden star (Chrysogonum virginianum) and ‘Emerald Gaiety’ Euonymus).
Only time and the environment can weave such intricate, engaging patterns where one spreading plant meets another. Golden star (Chrysogonum virginianum) and ‘Emerald Gaiety’ euonymus.

More recently, I doubted the value of pursuing that feeling. When I began gardening on others’ properties as much or more as I gardened on my own, the thrill of the new garden claimed me. Working in my own beds was not as much fun as creating a garden from non-garden. Stripping sod, outlining beds on a clean slate, watching a design move from paper to reality produced a creative high that was tough to find except in a new garden. To make anything truly new in an established garden, so much energy had to be expended in preparation, just to clear away existing plants and memories!

Established gardens began to seem more trouble than they were worth in other ways. Plants overgrew their bounds, sometimes in ugly or destructive ways only partially remedied with tedious pruning and awkward restraints. Weeds that sneaked in and became entrenched could sometimes be eradicated only through wholesale slaughter of, or painstaking lifting and cleaning of desirable plants. Pests sometimes claimed the upper hand, particularly as conditions changed around older plants. Looking at sections of garden left thin and raw for these and other reasons, I began to think it would be better to tear everything out and start new every five or six years, or move to a new gardening site entirely.

We see so many images of mature, full gardens. It’s no wonder instant landscapes are on many wish lists.
We see so many images of mature, full gardens. It’s no wonder instant landscapes are on many wish lists.

Golden stonecrop (Sedum kamtschaticum) and Ajuga repens.
Golden stonecrop (Sedum kamtschaticum) and Ajuga repens.

Creeping red thyme (Thymus coccineum)
Creeping red thyme (Thymus coccineum)

Today, I’m back on the Camerons’ track. I have identified the seed which germinated in me back then as love of Hortus venerablus—the old garden. Even with its limitations, its advantages are overwhelming. It’s now inextricably rooted in my heart.

To name just a few advantages, beyond the obvious ones of mature hedges and trees that cast shade…

In a garden tended over many years to discourage weeds, the seed bank in the soil shifts. Where it may once have had a high proportion of crabgrass seed—a species which can survive 20 years in the soil, waiting its chance to rise to the surface and sprout—it may eventually contain more daisy and coreopsis than dandelion, more globe thistle and coneflower than chickweed. Bare the soil in a new garden and stand ready to hoe lamb’s quarters, dock, pigweed and spurge. Pull the mulch back from a bit of old bed and prepare to thin volunteer candytuft, pimpernel, campion and cranesbill. Weeding the cracks between new paving stones is a chore. Weeding the same spaces in an older garden, the tedium is broken by discovery and decisions to leave that patch of sweet alyssum, step over that seedling sedum, and allow that pesky Perilla to stay and shade out any other comers.

No amount of skill in planting can duplicate the beautiful way that nature weaves roots and stems among stones (Irish moss, Arenaria caespitosa verna).
No amount of skill in planting can duplicate the beautiful way that nature weaves roots and stems among stones (Irish moss, Arenaria caespitosa verna).

Only over time do natural organisms of all sizes take hold and reach a balance with each other. Fungal and bacterial diseases seem to move in first, but if the gardener keeps a level head and avoids trying to make the environment antagonistic to all such, a far greater number of benign and helpful microorganisms soon take hold. Some of these decompose organic matter, replacing store-bought fertilizer. Others infect and kill pests. Some are known to muscle into spaces each spring before their disease-causing relatives can reach them, creating a no-room-in-the-inn squeeze play that suppresses the proliferation of the baddies.

Worms, insect-eating insects, amphibians, birds and small mammals move in as the organic matter and smaller organisms they feed on become plentiful enough to support families. No wonder my long-ago trial with a hummingbird feeder failed! We should try again, now that there is so much better habitat, more water, more insects, an absence of bad-tasting pesticides and a wealth of alternative food sources. But then, why bother? The hummingbirds are here!

Above and below: Making a new garden appear where there was no garden before is so thrilling, it can almost convince us to just start fresh every five or six years.
Above and below: Making a new garden appear where there was no garden before is so thrilling, it can almost convince us to just start fresh every five or six years.

green-garden-jul13A client, relatively new to gardening, once wanted me to transplant a particular plant from my garden to hers, and took offense when I declined the work. She didn’t understand my explanation that the plant’s above ground appearance was a direct reflection of an extensive, old root system and an equally extensive network of life in the soil. Simple refusal would have been my best route because the to-your-bones understanding of that situation usually comes only with experience and years. She would have to learn for herself that no amount of skill with a spade can succeed in a lasting transfer of the essence of old.

The thrill of the new still exhilarates me—I count myself fortunate to be able to feel it in large doses in clients’ and friends’ yards. Yet as an admirer of age, I’m also happier in my older beds, as delighted watching things grow as I am at their maturity. The “routines” of maintenance are more enjoyable and the unrealistic expectation that things will ever be and stay “done” crops up less. I may even be learning to coach others in cultivating an appreciation of both aspects of gardening.

Oh, to sip tea with the Camerons today, and talk to them of these things. How we might laugh over what I said and did then as I plotted to transplant Hortus venerablus!

Janet Macunovich is a professional gardener and author of the books “Designing Your Gardens and Landscape” and “Caring for Perennials.” Read more from Janet on her website www.gardenatoz.com.

Filed Under: Janet’s Journal Tagged With: creeping red thyme, euonymus, false indigo, garden, golden stonecrop, Janet Macunovich, mature, sweet alyssum

Janet’s Journal: Use these tips to help prepare your garden for visitors

April 30, 2013   •   Leave a Comment

bare-space-better-than-clutter-may13
Bare space is better than clutter, or fading, failing plants.

 

By Janet Macunovich / Photographs by Steven Nikkila

Are you having guests over to see the garden? Great! Let’s talk tactics.

Without losing sight of the glory of the moment, fast forward in your mind’s eye to the visit. Where are high points and holes going to be? Aim to spotlight the stars and mask fading players.

Difficulty seeing past whatever’s in bloom right now? Great stage managers use reference books on perennials to determine what will be in peak bloom for your visitors. A viewer’s eye will be drawn to full bloom, i.e. concentrations of color. That’s where garden statuary should be placed, companion annuals most carefully chosen, and where advance work with stakes and pest control will yield the highest pay-off.

Pick garden art to work well with the star. For a star that blooms white with hints of pink, recall that retired flamingo. A columnar plant playing the lead? Echo it with smaller columnar accents or contrast it behind a low, wide sculpture. Splashes of gold on the foliage? A golden gazing globe may be just the ticket.

Of supporting annuals, ask for more than color. Select them to complement the star’s color, form and texture. If that lead player has daisy shape flowers, use an annual with spiky blooms. Pair upright plants with low, spreading types and large foliage with ferny.

Think about supporting shaky stars now. Don’t be one who cries on visit day over storm-flattened delphiniums, and deludes herself that salvation can be found in bundling them up onto last minute stakes, crucifixion style.

As pretty as purple coneflower (Echinacea purpurea) is, black-eyed Susan (Rudbeckia) is not it’s best companion, for the flower form is too similar. Spike-form blazing star (Liatris Spicata) are better matches for coneflowers, or tall wands of snakeroot (Cimicifuga racemosa).
As pretty as purple coneflower (Echinacea purpurea) is, black-eyed Susan (Rudbeckia) is not it’s best companion, for the flower form is too similar. Spike-form blazing star (Liatris Spicata) are better matches for coneflowers, or tall wands of snakeroot (Cimicifuga racemosa).

Review your garden journals or look up starring plants in a pest control book. To what problems are they prone? Keep a preventive eye peeled.

Back to the bit players who will not be at their best. Aim only to make them presentable. Edit the script carefully so they don’t have important lines.

If the plants in question will pass their peak bloom before show time, and if that’s before the end of June, they are fair game for hard cut-back, even before they finish bloom. They can be cut back to clean foliage, even to the base. Given three weeks and plenty of water, most will flush out with new foliage—presentable if not stellar. If they don’t come back in time for the tour, send in stand-ins. If they never come back at all…that’s rare, but it’s the price of show biz!

About those stand-ins. Remember that they shouldn’t upstage the stars. Better to place pots of neat foliage—houseplants, or perennials not yet in bloom—than call attention to the spot with bright flower color. Never spotlight such an area by underlining it or ringing it with annuals. Few things worse in theater than when all eyes turn to a player whose costume is awry or who can’t recall her lines.

Now for last-minute sleight of hand, à la Vita Sackville-West and her stick-on blooms.

Assess the scenery a week before the visit. If a star is failing, grab a wallet and go recruiting. Garden centers have large pots of annuals for such emergencies. Perennials can be cast last-minute, too.

Weeds drawing your eye and raising your blood pressure before the show? Seek a second opinion before you blow that artistic gasket. Some weeds are well known, but some may pass for planned acts. Ask your reviewer—weeds of the unusual type which are also happy and lush may actually pass muster as can’t-put-my-finger-on-it perennials. For weeds too type-cast to play the part of a good guy, or too spotty to appear planned, nip them off the day before the big event if you can’t dig them out properly. Or cover them with newspaper and mulch. Bare space is better than weedy space.

About mulch. Use just one type throughout the garden and make it dark and fine in texture. Cocoa hulls are great, but using them for a large garden can be costly. As an alternative I use composted woody fines or double shredded hardwood bark.

Turn the water on the night before the visit. A chorus line of dark mulch and clean, moist leaves can carry most any show.

For that worst emergency, where an area must be cleared and replanted shortly before a visit, plant simply. Go for elegance rather than splash. Don’t plant regimented rows but clusters of 3. For example, given room for 15 salvias on 6-inch centers, I plant 5 tight clusters of three instead, and give each cluster more space around it than I would give a single plant of its type. The individual plants will maintain glowing good health since they have space to root outward from their cluster, yet have more immediate visual appeal as triplets. Between different types of plants, leave bare space. So if you’re planting a bed with salvia, snapdragon and lantana, and cluster-planted salvia at eight inches between clumps, leave 20 inches of open space between the snapdragon area and the lantana area. Dark, mulched soil will outline each mass, accentuating its difference from the other.

Finally, enjoy the visit. Play your part. Allow yourself to be taken in by your own tricks. Don’t apologize for flaws—your guests probably won’t even notice them if you don’t point them out. Do gush over your successes!

Janet Macunovich is a professional gardener and author of the books “Designing Your Gardens and Landscape” and “Caring for Perennials.” Read more from Janet on her website www.gardenatoz.com.

Filed Under: Janet’s Journal Tagged With: garden tours, garden visitors, Janet Macunovich, preparing

DNR advises caution to prevent spread of oak wilt disease

April 24, 2013   •   Leave a Comment

Oak wilt spreads from tree to tree through connected root systems. Untreated, the fungus spreads to adjacent red oak trees, often killing large groups of trees within a few years, eventually killing all nearby root-grafted oaks. These leaves are from an infected oak.
Oak wilt spreads from tree to tree through connected root systems. Untreated, the fungus spreads to adjacent red oak trees, often killing large groups of trees within a few years, eventually killing all nearby root-grafted oaks. These leaves are from an infected oak.

April 15 is the beginning of the yearly window when oak wilt can be transmitted from diseased to healthy red oak trees, the Department of Natural Resources announced.

According to Dr. Robert Heyd, forest pest management program manager for the DNR’s Forest Resources Division, oak wilt is a serious disease of oak trees—mainly red oaks, including northern red oak, black oak and pin oak. Red oaks often die within a few weeks after becoming infected. White oaks are more resistant, therefore the disease progresses more slowly.

“The normal time-tested advice is to prevent oak wilt by not pruning or otherwise “injuring” oaks from April 15 to July 15,” Heyd said. Heyd added that the spread of oak wilt occurs during this time of year as beetles move spores from fungal fruiting structures on the trees killed last year by oak wilt to wounds on healthy oaks. As warmer weather melts away snow and ice, the beetles that move oak wilt become active.

He said although oak wilt hasn’t been detected in every Michigan county, the need for vigilance is present statewide. “With the transport of firewood and other tree-related activities, you have to assume the risk is present, whether you live in metro Detroit or in the Upper Peninsula.”

Spring is a popular time for people to move firewood to vacation properties and other locations. During this April-to-July period, Heyd said it’s vital not to move wood from oak wilt-killed trees. These trees are often cut into firewood and moved, sometimes many miles from their original locations. Any wounding of oaks in this new area can result in new oak wilt infections as beetles move spores from the diseased firewood to fresh wounds on otherwise healthy trees.

The DNR recommends that anyone who suspects they have oak wilt-tainted firewood should cover it with a plastic tarp all the way to the ground, leaving no openings. This keeps the beetles away and generates heat inside the tarp, helping to destroy the fungus. Once the bark loosens on the firewood, the disease can no longer be spread.

New oak wilt sites have been traced to spring and early summer wounding from tree-climbing spikes, rights-of-way pruning, nailing signs on trees and accidental tree-barking. If an oak is wounded during this critical time, the DNR advises residents to cover the wound immediately with either a tree-wound paint or a latex paint to help keep the beetles away.

Once an oak is infected, the fungus moves to neighboring red oaks through root grafts. Oaks within approximately 100 feet of each other—depending on the size of the trees—have connected or grafted root systems. Left untreated, oak wilt will continue to move from tree to tree, progressively killing more red oaks over an increasingly larger area. These untreated pockets also serve as a source of inoculum for the overland spread of the disease.

To get more information on the background, symptoms and prevention of oak wilt, as well as other forest health issues, visit www.michigan.gov/foresthealth and take a look at the DNR’s 2012 Forest Health Highlights Report.

Filed Under: Clippings, Tree Tips Tagged With: disease, oak wilt, trees

Michigan DNR marks Arbor Day with events throughout state

April 11, 2013   •   Leave a Comment

The Michigan Department of Natural Resources has planned a full schedule of Arbor Day programs throughout the state on April 26-27. Guests are invited to join state park and visitor center staff for family-friendly outdoor programs that celebrate the many benefits of trees. Visitors can:

  • Discover some of Michigan’s biggest trees growing in some of the state’s grandest parks
  • Cut out a tree cookie
  • Take home a seedling to plant in the backyard.

Anyone who’s ever wondered what kinds of bugs are bad for Michigan’s trees (and how they got here) or how to identify one kind of tree from another will get the chance to learn all of this and much more at various DNR programs around the state. Details are available on the DNR website.

Filed Under: Clippings Tagged With: arbor day, DNR, Michigan, seeding, tree cookie

Plant buds are a sign that spring has arrived

April 10, 2013   •   Leave a Comment

MSU Extension:

Everyone in Michigan is anxiously awaiting spring and warmer temperatures to arrive. Few of us are as patient as the woody plants around us. They have been patiently waiting since mid-January for warm weather. Last fall, as the days got shorter and temperatures fell, perennial plants got ready for winter. Sugars were stored as starch in the shoots and roots. Proteins in the leaves were broken down and reassembled as storage proteins in the shoots and roots. These materials were stored for the explosive growth we often see in spring as trees and shrubs leaf out rapidly under warm conditions.

Read the rest of the article…

Filed Under: Uncategorized

Janet’s Journal: Shady Goings-on

April 5, 2013   •   2 Comments

Cool Shade: In high summer a shady spot seems even cooler and more refreshing when it's lush with greenery.
Cool Shade: In high summer a shady spot seems even cooler and more refreshing when it’s lush with greenery.

How to prepare shady beds under trees and select choice shade plants

By Janet Macunovich / Photographs by Steven Nikkila

Dark thoughts haunt me at high summer. As I tend sun-soaked beds, sweat-soaked myself, I find it hard to concentrate on what I’m doing. My mind wanders to shady corners and wooded lots, dappled clearings and deep, quiet, ferny retreats. It’s all I can do to keep my feet from following suit.

From the sunny side, all shade is mysterious. The details of the spot become clear only when you step within the dark. Drawn to a dark corner by the prospect of a cool retreat, I am sometimes disappointed to find shade but little refreshment. Barren ground can do that—hard-packed, lifeless soil can’t provide visual and mental refreshment to accompany the cooler air.

If you have a shaded spot that doesn’t measure up as a garden retreat, chances are that you can change the situation in three steps.

Few plants perform so well and add so much color to the shade as hosta. The key is to focus on foliage color and contrast.
Few plants perform so well and add so much color to the shade as hosta. The key is to focus on foliage color and contrast.

All painted ferns are not equal. Some are whiter, greener, or more maroon than others.
All painted ferns are not equal. Some are whiter, greener, or more maroon than others.

The colorfully splashed leaves of Tovara ‘Painter’s Palette’ light up the shade.
The colorfully splashed leaves of Tovara ‘Painter’s Palette’ light up the shade.

 Lungwort varieties with white splashes and splotches are hot items at garden centers.
Lungwort varieties with white splashes and splotches are hot items at garden centers.

Golden bleeding heart is a delightful edger for shade.
Golden bleeding heart is a delightful edger for shade.

First, beef up the soil. Plants that grow under and around trees in nature do so in decades or centuries of fallen leaf litter. High in humus, it’s moisture retentive and returns to the soil almost all of what was removed to produce those leaves. Soil animals—worms, insects, and microscopic creatures—teem in the rich leaf mold, adding nitrogen and changing leaves into easily-absorbed nutrients.

Our overly-tidy ways lead us to remove fallen leaves and twigs. As a consequence, we create wastelands under trees. The first thing every really successful shade gardener does is add lots of compost—not soil, but compost with its higher organic matter content—and keep adding it every year. This means letting fallen leaves lie, or shredding them and putting them back down. At an older home with older trees, the soil may have been starved for decades, so I often start a new shade garden with a 6- to 8-inch depth of compost. Every year as the plants die back in the fall, I add 1 to 2 inches more. Just don’t stack this topdressing against the tree trunks and the trees will love it too.

Next, throw out your old concept of watering. To grow great plants in the shade you must water the trees first and then the garden. Since a large tree can consume a thousand gallons of water on a hot, breezy summer day, watering a shade garden can mean providing 3, 4, or 5 times as much water as you might in a sunny garden. Soaker hoses woven through the beds might have to run for 4 or 5 hours every second or third day to keep the gardens growing.

Finally, pick plants that love the shade. Stay away from “shade tolerant” plants, which are often lackluster, few-flowered and floppy in the shade. Here are some of my favorite perennials for shade. I group them by the design characteristics that are most important to shade—note that “flower” is not one of these. Blooms are more of a bonus in the shade than anything else. All of the plants on my list do bloom, but none of them has the stunning display of a daisy or a delphinium. Instead, they offer height, texture or foliage color.

For height:

Bugbanes (Cimicifuga species), or under the less-common name I prefer to use, fairy candles. Ferny foliage much like an astilbe, with tall wands of white flowers in June (C. racemosa), July or August (C. ramosa), or September (C. simplex). C. racemosa is tallest, at six feet. C. ramosa is 3 to 4 feet tall, and C. simplex usually between 2 and 3 feet. Varieties of C. ramosa with bronze or purple foliage are available. One of the glories of bugbanes is how sturdy and straight they stand in the shade, but be forewarned, if the light is very strong from one side and the shade very deep on the other, they will lean and may require staking.

Meadow rue, woodsy members of the genus Thalictrum. With their columbine-like foliage, they can be mistaken for this lesser plant in early spring, but not once they begin to tower. T. flavum subsp. glaucum is a personal favorite, 5 to 6 feet tall with ghostly blue green foliage and yellow green flowers in June. T. rochebruneanum puts on a show like a 5- to 6-foot mauve baby’s breath in July. Thalictrums often need staking in the shade. Be sure to stake them before they begin to fall, to make the work easier on you, easier on the plant, and more visually pleasing. Although this can be a tedious process, since each main stem will need its own stake, it’s worth it.

Goatsbeard (Aruncus dioicus). A true aristocrat. Straight, sturdy and reliably showy in June even in the deepest shade—it’s often mistaken for a five-foot shrub with white astilbe flowers. When grown in deep shade, it takes many years of growth for a plant to accumulate the energy to match the stature of its one-year-old sun-grown brethren. To get around this reality, I often grow the goatsbeard in sun for a year to give it some size, then move it into the shade.

Turtlehead (Chelone obliqua, C. lyonii). Three to four feet, straight stems topped with spikes of pink or white flowers in August. An individual floret on the spike of this snapdragon relative resembles a turtle’s head.

Japanese anemone (Anemone x hybrida). Not for everyone, this 3- to 4-foot plant is usually quite the spreader where it’s happy, and quick to disappear where it’s not. September-blooming (it blooms a month earlier in sunnier locations) flowers are white, pink or mauve, resemble single peonies, and varieties with double flowers are available.

For coarse texture to offset the fine foliage of astilbes, ferns, etc.

Hosta. Of course. Enough said!

Rodgers flower (Rodgersia species). Huge compound leaves may be as big around as a child’s saucer sled. Creamy white flowers cluster in spikes or one-sided clusters on stalks that rise to 3 or 4 feet in June. Grows best where it’s moist, maybe even too moist for other plants.

Variegated brunnera (Brunnera macrophylla varieties). Heart-shaped leaves 9 inches across. Blue forget-me-not flowers on 18 inch stems in May.

Variegated lungwort or Bethlehem sage (Pulmonaria varieties). Leaves streaked, edged or spotted with silver or white form 12-inch mounds. Blue, pink or white flowers on 18-inch stems in April-May.

Edging and filler

Golden bleeding heart (Corydalis lutea). Twelve-inch mounds of lacy, blue green leaves with butter yellow flowers from Memorial Day into July. Spreads readily by seed where it’s happy.

Dwarf goatsbeard (Aruncus aethusifolius). Like a tiny astilbe, with creamy white spikelets in May and June.

Tellima (Tellima grandiflora). A mound of slightly furry foliage reminiscent of coral bells. Much more reliable, longer-lived and fuller blooming in shade than a coral bell, though. Flowers are green-white to barely pink on 18-inch stems, in May-June.

Chinese astilbe (Astilbe chinensis). August blooming, and spreading by runners where conditions are good. 18 inches.

For foliage color

Tovara (may be listed as T. virginiana, Persicaria virginiana, or Polygonum virginiana ‘Painter’s Palette’). Long, pointed-oval leaves splashed with white and pink really add spark to shady corners. 18 inches. Flower is white, but not significant.

Golden satin grass (Hakonechloa macra ‘Aureola’). A 15-inch fountain of gold-edged leaves; not really a grass, but who cares!

Hosta. Again, enough said!

Variegated Solomon’s seal (Polygonatum odoratum ‘Variegatum’). Arching stems 18 inches tall, each leaf outlined in white. White bells dangle from the stems in April-May.

Japanese painted fern (Athyrium niponicum var. ‘Pictum’). Silver and maroon marked foliage. Buy it for the color you see, because the variety is quite variable—the plant you buy that is more green than silver won’t become silver later. Loves the drier areas of a garden, once established.

Janet Macunovich is a professional gardener and author of the books “Designing Your Gardens and Landscape” and “Caring for Perennials.” Read more from Janet on her website www.gardenatoz.com.

Filed Under: Janet’s Journal Tagged With: beds, plants, shady

Janet’s Journal Website Extra: Wattle wisdom and step-by-step to make Tollgate Twist

March 28, 2013   •   Leave a Comment

Continued from page 42 of the April 2013 issue.

Photos by Steven Nikkila

This basic wattle weave in and out of sturdy cedar posts will last at least 4 years and then only the withes will need to be replaced.
This basic wattle weave in and out of sturdy cedar posts will last at least 4 years and then only the withes will need to be replaced.

Priscilla Needle, Paul Needle, Debi Slentz, and others from our Detroit Zoo volunteer group harvest redtwig dogwood for wattle. It’s best to use fresh clippings, which remain flexible. However, cold storage that
prevents dehydration can extend the wood’s useful life. On this January day we seized an opportunity to cut a quantity of redtwig dogwood although we would not weave until April. It was a gamble but paid off in withes still quite flexible and ready when we were on April 1.

Making the Tollgate Twist

Materials needed:

  • Cut stems such as dogwood, willow, kerria, spirea, etc. in 4- to 5-foot lengths. Must be fresh, cut recently enough or stored cool enough to retain their flexibility.
  • A hammer or mallet and sturdy stake or pipe to punch post holes.
  • Biodegradable twine.

tollgate-twist-wattle1

1. Set three-part posts at 15-inch intervals along the desired fence line. Each three-part post consists of:

a. Two flexible weaving wands, 48 inches or greater. If the bottom 18 inches is rigid, not flexible, that’s okay but everything above that must bend easily. If the weaving wand has side branches you will treat the wand plus its twigs as one bundled unit.

b. One stout stake, its top at the desired finished height of the fence.

c.  All with their butt ends securely seated in drilled or punched holes about 6 inches deep. Depth of the holes depends on soil type and finished fence height. Looser soil and taller fences need deeper holes.

tollgate-twist-wattle2

2. Select a new 3- to 5-foot wand and weave it in and out around 3 or 4 posts. If this wand has side branches, treat it as one bundled unit. Pass alternately behind and in front of three-posts, and thread between each post and one of its weavers.

tollgate-twist-wattle3

3. Grasp the left-side weaving wand of post group A. Bend it to meet B, the next post to the right. Wrap down and around the three branches that make up post B, beginning between post B’s stout stake and left-side weaving wand. Wrap around the horizontal wand. Leave this weaver wand’s tip trailing on the ground. If a wand should crack, don’t let it break through completely, or replace it if it does.

4. Now bend and weave post B’s right-hand weaving stem to the left. Thread it between post A and its free weaver, then wrap around that post group.

tollgate-twist-wattle4

5. Weave to connect 4 or 5 posts. Then insert another 3- to 5-foot wand horizontally, as in #2, overlapping the first horizontal by half and alternating with it by weaving in and out between the posts.

6. Bend trailing tips of all weaving wands up to wrap around and run with horizontal wands. Tie with twine at intervals as necessary, or snug the wand tips into portions already woven.

7. Insert more 3-part posts and keep weaving.

Filed Under: Janet’s Journal, Website Extras Tagged With: how-to, tollgate, twist, wattle

Website Extra: Asian Inspired Garden

March 28, 2013   •   Leave a Comment

Continued from page 36 of the April 2013 issue.

Photos by Sandie Parrott

Rita calls this her tiger lily walk. Many were donated by friends. As a girl, Rita loved to go and pick them in the fields and present them to her mother. She loves the mass effect and passes along extras to her friends.
Rita calls this her tiger lily walk. Many were donated by friends. As a girl, Rita loved to go and pick them in the fields and present them to her mother. She loves the mass effect and passes along extras to her friends.

Slag sand pathways allow the Cohens and visitors to stroll the garden. The red color of the bridge sets off the garden and adds the traditional feature of a Chinese garden, which some Japanese gardens have adopted. Japanese gardens typically have natural wood or stone bridges.
Slag sand pathways allow the Cohens and visitors to stroll the garden. The red color of the bridge sets off the garden and adds the traditional feature of a Chinese garden, which some Japanese gardens have adopted. Japanese gardens typically have natural wood or stone bridges.

This view is full of texture: a little wire animal perches on a stone bench while the stark driftwood piece draws the eye upward to the massive old sugar maple tree. Tiny-leaved creeping thyme groundcover anchors the scene.
This view is full of texture: a little wire animal perches on a stone bench while the stark driftwood piece draws the eye upward to the massive old sugar maple tree. Tiny-leaved creeping thyme groundcover anchors the scene.

Filed Under: Profile, Website Extras Tagged With: asian, garden

What is the frost-free date for my area?

March 22, 2013   •   Leave a Comment

kale-frost
Photo credit: Big Dubya, Flickr.com

A common gardening question each spring is, “When will the last frost occur in my area?” As anyone in Michigan knows, the weather here is difficult to predict and our state has diverse climates with wide variation from the upper peninsula down to the Ohio border. But, we do have historical averages which is where you want to start. The MSU Extension has created a helpful table based on last frost data from 78 weather reporting stations throughout Michigan.

Check it out here…

Filed Under: Uncategorized

Monarch butterfly numbers fall to record low

March 16, 2013   •   Leave a Comment

NPR:

Monarch butterflies that once covered 50 square acres of forest during their summer layover in central Mexico now occupy fewer than 3 acres, according to the latest census.

The numbers of the orange-and-black butterflies have crashed in the two decades since scientists began making a rough count of them, according to Mexico’s National Commission of Natural Protected Areas.

Read the rest of the story…

Filed Under: Clippings Tagged With: Butterfly, Low, Monarch, Record

  • « Previous Page
  • 1
  • …
  • 35
  • 36
  • 37
  • 38
  • 39
  • …
  • 43
  • Next Page »

Copyright 1996-2025 Michigan Gardener. All rights reserved.