jhofley, Author at Michigan Gardener

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After 27 years, nearly 200 issues published, and millions of copies printed, we have decided it is time to end the publication of our Print Magazine and E-Newsletter.

Planting ideas for ditches and swampy areas

April 15, 2019 • Leave a Comment

After a moderate rain, water collects in a shallow ditch at the back of my lawn. It looks swampy every year. Any design/planting ideas to improve the look of this area?

This unfortunate nuisance that often occurs in both old and new landscapes is actually a garden opportunity. Evaluate the square footage involved and consider putting in a rain garden. Very simply, a rain garden is a planted depression that allows rainwater runoff from impervious urban areas like roofs, driveways, walkways, and compacted lawn areas the opportunity to be absorbed. It reduces rain runoff by allowing storm water to soak into the ground (as opposed to flowing into drains and surface waters, which causes erosion, water pollution and flooding).

Usually, it is a small garden that is designed to withstand the extremes of moisture and concentrations of nutrients, particularly nitrogen and phosphorus often found in storm water runoff. A rain garden retards the water flow and absorption, allowing more time to infiltrate and less opportunity to gain momentum and erosive power. Because this area is in your lawn, you have the opportunity to prepare an area with select trees and shrubs as well as perennials that will enjoy absorbing and utilizing that rainwater, processing it, and creating an entire ecosystem beneficial to the greater good of the landscape.

The Wisconsin Department of Natural Resources has a 32-page online manual for the how-tos of constructing a rain garden, from measuring to digging to planting. They even include several design diagrams. The basic information is excellent, but it does focus on downspout and house foundation locations for the most part.

The key for an area like yours (away from a downspout) is to use tree and shrub species that love wet conditions. There are a number of Michigan native plants that suit the criteria well. Because you are not necessarily restricted by the proximity of a building, you can consider using trees like river birch (Betula nigra ‘Heritage’), which has the grace of a willow but none of the mess. It also has excellent winter interest in its buff pink, exfoliating bark.

Consider planting a cluster of red and yellow twig dogwood shrubs (Cornus sericea ‘Alba’ and Cornus sericea ‘Flaviramea’). These shrubs are especially suited to swampy areas and, with their colorful twigs exposed in Michigan winters, become a highlight of the snow-filled landscape. Depending on how large your ditch is, you could possibly add a smaller ornamental tree such as a native witch hazel (Hamamelis virginiana), which blooms in October and November, or a native shrub such as the common elderberry (Sambucus canadensis) whose fall fruit provides a great food source for both birds and animals.

Planting a rain garden is a very eco-friendly way to deal with standing water and provide assistance to the natural filtration process for our groundwater. You not only solve the drainage problem but also turn an eyesore into a work of beauty.

Janet’s Journal: Springboard into the garden season

April 2, 2019 • Leave a Comment

Gardening has never been easier. Power equipment, ergonomically efficient hand tools, landscapes featuring groundcovers and mulch rather than labor-intensive hoed flower beds, inexpensive materials for no-bend raised beds, and lightweight prepackaged potting mixes all ease the strain of the garden season on muscles, bone, timetable and checkbook. It’s great.

But there is a consequence of all this efficiency and mechanization that causes me concern. Those long-reach tools, no-fuss plantings and time-saving schemes put distance and time between the gardener and his garden. Yet spring is a time to embrace the garden!

Early April is the time to get the jump on garden work. Smart moves now put me ahead of trouble for the whole season…

Lift perennials whose crowns have been pierced by running root weeds, remove the weed roots and replace the desirable plant. Sometimes the weed is quack grass or Canada thistle, but in this case it’s Carolina lupine (Thermopsis caroliniana), a desirable but rambunctious species, that’s spread underground to undercut this cardinal flower (Lobelia cardinalis). — Lift perennials whose crowns have been pierced by running root weeds, remove the weed roots and replace the desirable plant. Sometimes the weed is quack grass or Canada thistle, but in this case it’s Carolina lupine (*Thermopsis caroliniana*), a desirable but rambunctious species, that’s spread underground to undercut this cardinal flower (*Lobelia cardinalis*).

Don’t we get enough separation from our gardens from November to April? Shouldn’t we be kissing the ground, hugging our shrubs and stroking the silky new bulb foliage once the snow melts? That’s what I do.

Not only does it make me feel better to reconnect, but it keeps me ahead of trouble and on the easy side of the street for the whole year.

Here’s my spring start-up routine.

When the bulb foliage is up several inches and perennials’ basal rosettes have begun to show new green, I know the soil in that area has drained and warmed enough to accept my ministrations. In my own beds and most others I’m involved with, I expect to be out there on April 1, although I do work in a few beds that are too low, poorly drained or so shaded and sloped away from the sun that plant growth is retarded and I wait until later in April.

It helps at this time of year to summon one of my alter egos to coax, prod, push or fire me up and send me out the door, because an April morning can seem cold and unappealing. Even though I’ve learned that every hour I spend in early April saves me triple time later in the year, and I know that it will be less than an hour before I’ve warmed up enough to peel off my first layer of insulation, the first step out of the house can take work.

Here I cut back woody Artemisia absinthium to budded stubs…and it presents a bushy new face three weeks later. — Here I cut back woody wormwood (*Artemisia absinthium*) to budded stubs…and it presents a bushy new face three weeks later.

My first and most important job is to visit the plants and see how they’re doing. So I crouch, pruners in hand to clip away last year’s stems from perennials and damaged bits from shrubs, and give each member of my garden the once-over.

I’m not doing anything other than clipping yet, but I’m noting things like the presence of weeds in or near the crown, animal damage, weak or rotted portions, overcrowded clumps or over-eager colonies, and puzzling unknowns. After 30-some years watching my plants wake up, I pretty much know my team. Each species has its own character and unique weaknesses. Some always jump up ready to rock, some winter restlessly and need untangling from the sheets, and a few need to be hustled quickly to the vanity for a makeover before polite company arrives. Occasionally one needs doctoring or inoculation because I see early signs of that plant’s unique recurring problems.

There are always a few new guys every year who give me pause. Getting to know each one is like learning the ways of a new friend, one day and one encounter at a time. In spring, I scribble my observations on a mental clipboard.

I cut to just above a bud on woody perennials such as culinary sage, lavender, Russian sage and shrubs that I cut back hard, including butterfly bush (Buddleia davidii) and bluebeard (Caryopteris x clandonensis). — I cut to just above a bud on woody perennials such as culinary sage, lavender, Russian sage and shrubs that I cut back hard, including butterfly bush (*Buddleia davidii*) and bluebeard (*Caryopteris x clandonensis*).

I clip herbaceous perennials back to the ground, leaving only the brand new leaves or flower buds.

As I cut, I toss plant debris over my shoulder onto the lawn or a tarp. Every 10 or 15 minutes I stand up, pocket the pruners and stretch out with a rake to clean up my clippings. It’s unwise in early spring to spend too long in any one position or motion.

If the bed needs fertilizer, I broadcast a slow-release, organic product. I do this now so that the granules of fertilizer will be mixed into the top few inches of soil as I do my next steps—weeding and dividing.

I weed the bed beginning where most weeds begin—on the edge. Most of the plants we call weeds get into a bed as creeping roots or from seed dropped from the plants just outside. If I keep the edge free of weeds, the middle of the bed can almost fend for itself. After one good weeding in April I generally have very little weeding to do in May and often none in June, July and August.

I cut along the edge with a spade, separating runners from their source and loosening the soil. Then I lift out seedlings and creeping infiltrators, chasing every bit of running root. If there is a root barrier such as edging surrounding the bed, I loosen and lift seedling weeds all along the perimeter and check to be sure that defensive barrier is working. Sometimes I find that running root plants are coming in over the top of the edging or ducking beneath. If that’s the case I plan a change in tactics—a wider no man’s land to thwart above-ground creepers or a deeper edging against the subterranean invaders.

When I have secured the borders, I look to any weeds in the center. Weeds there consist mostly of desirable plants that have run amok. Running root perennials like bee balm, obedient plant, herbaceous artemisias and Japanese anemones have that tendency to spread beyond their appointed places. I sort out such messes by chasing the aggressive plants’ roots outward from their crowns. Sometimes it’s necessary to lift neighboring perennials all around these aggressive species, remove the foreign roots from their crowns and then replace them. Do this now and the oppressed plants will have time to reestablish roots before they stretch upward for the year. No sign of the disruption will remain.

…and leaning back on the handle of the spade, which forces the blade up and loosens that soil along the bed edge. Removing weeds from the edge is simple in that loose soil.

Left: I prefer mulch that is dark and fine in texture, such as cocoa hulls on the left edge of this bed. Right: But I will use anything that is free of weeds and can cover the ground, from shredded bark…to the fall leaves shown. — Left: I prefer mulch that is dark and fine in texture, such as cocoa hulls on the left edge of this bed.
Right: But I will use anything that is free of weeds and can cover the ground, from shredded bark…to the fall leaves shown.

Now or at my next visit in April I divide declining perennials and tend to those who seemed to need help with pests. Dividing is a matter of lifting all of an existing plant, removing the oldest parts—usually the center—and replanting only about one-quarter of the whole. I put back only pieces that are vigorous, outer-edge divisions, as those probably carry the least spores and eggs of pest diseases and insects that may have contributed to the original plant’s decline.

Every plant I lift for dividing represents a loss of organic matter for the bed. So for every bushel of peony, daylily, daisy or anything else I remove, I spread a bushel full of compost on that space and work it into the soil. If I don’t, the area will settle after replanting. Plants in such depressions may suffer from poor air circulation or puddling water.

I replace every bit of organic matter in a perennial bed when I divide. I lifted a wheelbarrow full of daylilies (in the background) in a fall dividing session and so added a wheelbarrow of compost to that area before replanting divisions.

My final chore in spring is to top up the mulch in the bed. Where the existing blanket of mulch is less than two inches thick, I add new, being careful to leave a clear collar around the crowns of plants so moisture isn’t trapped against stems.

I’ve been told that the thorough weeding I prescribe for early April is impractical, that it’s far too laborious to cut, loosen and clean the entire edge. Yet that’s the way it’s done in botanical gardens, because that’s what works best. It’s not such a chore as it sounds. This 500 square foot bed has 100 linear feet of edge. It took me just about an hour to cut and weed the outer 18 inches, all the way around.

Pre-emergent weed killers are unnecessary if you mulch. Pre-emergent products are often counter-productive in a perennial bed, getting mixed too deep into the soil in the normal course of weeding and dividing so that they do not prevent weeds at the surface, but build up to begin affecting the deeper roots of desirable plants.

There! Now I can sit back and enjoy the season because there will be very little hard work to do until fall!

Article by Janet Macunovich and photos by Steven Nikkila, www.gardenatoz.com.

Cranbrook Japanese garden receives grant support to begin rejuvenation

April 2, 2019 • Leave a Comment

Created in 1915 by Cranbrook founder George Booth and his father, Henry Wood Booth, Cranbrook’s Japanese garden is among the oldest in North America. Although the garden today remains a place of inspiration and renewal for visitors, the space itself needs rejuvenation. With the support of the Consulate General of Japan in Detroit, the Cranbrook Center for Collections and Research has received a grant from the Japanese Ministry of Land, Infrastructure, Transport and Tourism (MLIT) that will start the necessary work.

“There are six gardens worldwide that received one of these grants in 2018,” said Gregory Wittkopp, Director of the Cranbrook Center for Collections and Research. “We are very fortunate to be one of these six gardens.”

The MLIT grant provided funding to bring six gardeners to Cranbrook from the Japan Federation of Landscape Contractors. Over the course of six days, the gardeners helped transform one corner—the lily pond cascade—into what will once again be a place of beauty and contemplation. This work is the first of a six-phase master plan for the entire garden that is being designed by Sadafumi Uchiyama, garden curator of the famed Portland Japanese garden in Oregon.

Wittkopp said that Cranbrook “wants to respect the history and legacy of the garden, while also taking the opportunity to enhance it. Our goal is to make sure that this becomes a garden that is actively used for a variety of reasons, and that people find meaning here.”

Can Easter lilies be planted outside in southern Michigan?

April 1, 2019 • Leave a Comment

The heady fragrance of traditional Easter lilies (Lilium longiflorum) or Madonna lily (Lilium candidum) is never forgotten once experienced. Both are true members of the lily family. They grow about 1-1/2 to 3-1/2 feet tall in full sun in rich, evenly moist but well-drained soil. Because you are asking about planting outside in zones 5 and 6, you’ve probably heard numerous stories of how people have a whole garden full of “Easter lilies” that they’ve planted every year and successfully had them grow and bloom repeatedly.

That being said, a few words of caution and qualification go with those success stories. The lily hybrids of Lilium longiflorum are not usually considered a garden plant, being normally hardy to only zones 7 to 9. Consequently they are grown primarily in pots here, and nurseries force them in bloom so their buds burst forth in time for the Easter celebration. Remember this observance moves on the calendar annually, from as early as mid-March to as late as mid-April. The bulb is not mysteriously intelligent; it has just been manipulated by greenhouses to bloom at the desired time.

That being said, there is a cultivar called ‘Mount Everest’ that bears fragrant white trumpets and can be grown in the ground in zones 5 to 8. If you were fortunate enough to receive or purchase a lily with an identification tag, you may know if you have that plant or another named cultivar. Or, if you in fact have a Madonna lily, it will tolerate temperatures down to 25 degrees. Unfortunately most Easter lilies rarely get tagged because they are either forced in a greenhouse or shipped in from warmer regions and are not hardy to our zones that deal with frozen soil in winter.

However, if you would like to attempt to save it in the ground, choose a sheltered, sunny spot that is well-drained. Many times we have microclimates around our homes, especially near the house foundation, that mimic a zone or two warmer than our overall region. If that warm, dry place is close to an often-used walkway, all the better to enjoy the fragrance.

Plant the bulb about 6 to 8 inches down, as you would any of the hardy summer-blooming Asiatic or Oriental lilies. Add about a tablespoon of granular bulb fertilizer to the planting hole. Evenly moist but well-drained soil at the site, especially in winter, cannot be stressed enough. You can leave the foliage intact to help feed the bulb naturally until the leaves completely brown out. Apply a heavy blanket of shredded leaf mulch to the planting area to minimize winter temperature fluctuations.

If there isn’t a place in your yard that suits these special conditions, try letting the foliage die back with the bulb in the pot. Let the soil dry out, and then lift the bulb, checking for soft spots. Make sure it is dry and soil-free. Store the bulb wrapped in a paper bag in a cool dry place until the following February. You are mimicking the winter dormancy of its native habitat. Then you can pot it up with a well-draining soil mixture, keeping the soil moist but not soggy. Put it in a warm, sunny window away from drying heat vents and watch the bulb come to life.

Steady rains bring burst of color to California

March 11, 2019 • Leave a Comment

USA Today:

It started with the desert lilies in December. Since then a wave of wildflower blooms has been crescendoing across Southern California’s Anza-Borrego desert in a burst of color so vivid it can be seen from mountain tops thousands of feet above.

Two years after steady rains followed by warm temperatures caused seeds dormant for decades under the desert floor to burst open and produce a spectacular display dubbed the “super bloom,” another winter soaking this year is expected to create possibly an even better show by Mother Nature.

Having two super blooms in two years is highly unusual. In California, super blooms happen about once in a decade in a given area, and they have been occurring less frequently with the drought.

Red the rest of the story…

Plant Focus: Glory of the snow

March 5, 2019 • Leave a Comment

Chionodoxa ‘Pink Giant’ (Photo: Wayside Gardens) — *Chionodoxa* ‘Pink Giant’ (Photo: Wayside Gardens)

By George Papadelis

As spring approaches, gardeners seek the familiar signs of yet another growing season. Even before trees produce their leaves and the spring equinox arrives, the garden can be alive with color from early blooming bulbs. In February, some warming can bring up an occasional flower or two, but by March, color is almost guaranteed through the planting of crocus, snowdrops, or this month’s featured plant, glory of the snow (Chionodoxa).

Chionodoxa luciliae (Photo: Netherlands Flower Bulb Info. Center) — *Chionodoxa luciliae* (Photo: Netherlands Flower Bulb Info. Center)

By late March (sometimes early April), glory of the snow produces 6 to 10 one-inch wide single flowers that last 3 to 4 weeks. Besides their vibrant color, these starry flowers are unique in that each blossom has a distinct white center. The species Chionodoxa forbesii (formerly C. luciliae) has glowing blue flowers, while the variety ‘Pink Giant’ has rosy-pink blooms. Both grow 6 to 10 inches tall. Since the flowers are small, a planting of 20 to 50 bulbs would provide the best show. This is also economically practical since the bulbs are usually inexpensive.

*Chionodoxa gigantea* (Photo: Netherlands Flower Bulb Info. Center)

Glory of the snow is very easy to grow and amongst the hardiest of all bulbs. Only well-drained soil and some sun are required for good performance. Bulbs should be planted with bulb fertilizer in the fall about 3 inches deep and 3 to 4 inches apart. Glory of the snow self-sows and divides itself very freely to form self-sustaining clumps that may last effortlessly for years. However, best results occur if the younger bulbs or “offsets” are dug up in May and replanted with fresh soil, fertilizer, and adequate space.

The only pest problem may be a hungry squirrel looking for a freshly planted snack. If this is a threat in your garden, some chicken wire buried above the bulbs usually does the trick.

Plant glory of the snow in clumps around trees, in the rock garden, or even in your lawn. It works wonderfully alone or in combination with other spring-blooming bulbs. Later-blooming bulbs such as tulips can also be placed in the same planting hole since they require deeper planting depths of 6 to 10 inches. Glory of the snow thrives in woodland situations if tree leaves are shredded, mulched, or raked off to assist them in spring emergence.

This tiny spring treasure is a must for any garden because of its versatility, performance, and durability. Try it almost anywhere! Just a few minutes of digging in the fall will allow glory of the snow to grace you with its presence for many years to come.

Glory of the snow (Chionodoxa)

Pronunciation: ky-on-oh-DOK-suh

Plant Type: Bulb

Plant Size: 5-10 inches tall

Flower Color: Rich blue with white centers (most common); also pink, white

Flower Size: 1 inch wide

Bloom Period: Late March – Early April

Leaves: Narrow, upright sprays

Light: Sun-light shade

Soil: Well-drained

Hardiness: Zone 3

Uses: Border, woodland areas, rock garden, nauralizer, lawn

Remarks: Plant in the fall, 3-4 inches deep

Selecting plants for the evening garden

February 21, 2019 • Leave a Comment

I work all day and I am home only in the evenings. What flowers can I plant that will bloom at night and maybe even have fragrance?

An evening garden relies heavily on flowers that are white or light-colored so they will be visible even on a moonless night. Moonlight really illuminates the flowers and foliage, making the garden at night a different, magical experience. Nighttime flowers are exactly that—they bloom in the evening and remain closed during the daytime. These flowers often give off beautiful, fragrant scents, and the evening dew helps intensify those scents. Even if some of the flowers do bloom during the day, it is in the evening when they give off their headiest fragrance. Scent in the evening somehow carries farther than in the daytime, and it is this scent that attracts the nighttime moth pollinators.

There are quite a few plants that are suitable for evening gardens. Dusty miller’s leaves range from gray-green to silvery white. Trumpet and oriental lilies give off a heady smell. Heliotrope, which also comes in a creamy white that will shine at night, gives off a sweet vanilla scent. Alyssum has tiny white flowers and a honey-like scent, making it good for pots and the front of borders. Impatiens also comes in white, and when planted in a pot or on a deck, it can reflect light from the moon to create a beautiful effect. Peonies, roses and hydrangeas also come in bright whites and yellows and will add much beauty to the evening garden.

A favorite flower for an evening garden would be moonflower. These are annual vines that thrive in hot weather. It is similar to the morning glory except it blooms at night. Plant it close to your seating area so you can watch its large, white blossoms unfold in minutes in the early evening—spectacular! The almost pure white blossoms are fragrant all evening and just illuminate the garden.

Pink evening primrose is another good choice. It has four satiny, heart-shaped petals that form open cups with long stamens. When they open, the blossoms are a soft, clear white that fade into pink as the flowers mature. Their scent is reminiscent of a blend of honeysuckle and lemon custard. Nicotiana is another sweet-scented flower whose blossoms close in the daytime but open in the late afternoon and fill the air with jasmine-like aroma. Make sure to include fragrant hostas like H. plantaginea, ‘Royal Standard,’ ‘Honey Bells,’ ‘Tokudama Aureonebulosa,’ ‘Sweet Standard,’ and ‘Fragrant Bouquet.’

Bright foliage is another way to create evening beauty in the garden. Lamium is a beautiful groundcover with two-toned, white-centered leaves. Lamb’s ears are another good plant for evening foliage. Other plants worth considering are white-flowering shrubs, and annuals like dame’s rocket, tuberose, petunia and dianthus.

To give your evening garden an extra dimension, add some solar or candle lights here and there, plus try a water feature. Even if it is a small fountain, the sound of water really makes the evening even more magical. The visual impact of bright whites, the scents of flowers and the sound of the evening all combine to make the evening garden a place that will calm and sooth the spirit.

Groundcover that handles foot traffic

January 28, 2019 • Leave a Comment

I would like to grow a fast-growing groundcover that is very short and can withstand being walked upon often and still look good. Are there any out there that survive in zone 4 and thrive in part sun to full shade?

First, you need to determine what “walked upon often” means in terms of frequency. Is it “light” (once or twice per day), “moderate” (about 6 times a day), or “heavy” (dozens of times per day)? The frequency of the daily traffic narrows the choices to those that can survive that impact. Second, you are limited in the number of hours of sun, and you want a fast grower. You may have to combine two or three species to satisfy all your criteria. Also remember that even though they are groundcovers, they will have tiny flowers that will call out to various insects and pollinators. An unwary bare foot could come away with an unpleasant sting.

Light traffic. Tiny creeping sedums make great groundcovers. They need little water and attention. They do grow moderately quickly if given the sunny section of your path. Sedum requieni will take the heaviest foot traffic in this group. Bugleweed (Ajuga) varieties do well in sun or shade. Ajuga “Chocolate Chip” is a small, tight groundcover whose leaves are a bronzy chocolate color.

Moderate traffic. Try creeping Jenny (Lysimachia) varieties. They prefer moist areas with partial shade. Their leaves are the size of dimes and they spread by runners. Wherever a leaf node lands, it will root. So it can rapidly fill in any given area. It can be considered invasive if not judiciously checked. L. nummularia ‘Aurea’ has chartreuse gold foliage and is often sold as a trailing plant for containers. L. japonica ‘Minutissima’ has super tight evergreen foliage. However, it is a slow grower. So combining two varieties of Lysimachia would give visual interest as well as quick coverage. Also take a look at Kew wintercreeper (Euonymus fortunei ‘Kewensis’). It is evergreen all year, tolerates shade, harsh soil conditions, and averages 2 inches in height. This is a very durable groundcover, but coarser in texture than the lysimachias.

Heavy traffic. Thymes and Irish moss are the most durable choices. Thyme is a great survivor, tolerating being walked on many times a day. Look for creeping thyme (Thymus serpyllum) or woolly thyme (Thymus pseudolanuginosus). Both will tolerate dry soil, are present spring through summer, and can handle zone 4 conditions. They tend to do better with more sun, but will tolerate partial shade. Irish moss (Sagina subulata) will form a very dense mat and is especially effective when combined with stepping stones. It likes moisture, prefers soil low in fertility, and enjoys dense shade. Homeowners often find it in their lawns when turf becomes thin and compacted.

Boxwood blight is detected in Michigan

January 12, 2019 • Leave a Comment

Boxwood blight, a serious fungal disease that attacks boxwoods, has been detected for the first time in Michigan. The disease was found in Oakland County in three separate locations: a landscape firm, a homeowner’s yard, and holiday wreaths for sale at a retail store. The Michigan Department of Agriculture and Rural Development (MDARD) was also notified by the Wisconsin Department of Agriculture, Trade and Consumer Protection that infected boxwood may have been sold at other retail locations in Michigan.

“Boxwood blight is a devastating disease that has caused significant losses to homeowners and the nursery industry in states that already have the disease,” said Gina Alessandri, director of MDARD’s Pesticide and Plant Pest Management Division.

Boxwood blight produces dark brown leaf spots and causes rapid defoliation that sometimes kills young boxwoods. Boxwood blight first appeared in the 1990s in the United Kingdom and is now widely distributed in Europe. In the United States, the disease was first found in 2011 in Connecticut, North Carolina and Virginia, and has since spread to more than 24 states. Boxwood blight affects all species of boxwood. However, some species and cultivars are more susceptible than others. American boxwood and English boxwood are highly susceptible. This disease also affects the related shrub sweetbox, as well as pachysandra, a well-known groundcover. Boxwood and pachysandra are commonly used in commercial and residential plantings throughout Michigan.

Wreaths displayed outdoors are a potential concern if they are exposed to the elements. The biggest risk comes when people dispose of the infected wreaths after the holidays. MDARD recommends that anyone who has a wreath containing boxwood plant parts should consider it infected and dispose of it by burning or, even better, double-bagging and including it with their trash for deposit in a landfill.

Alessandri advised that anyone who suspects that they have plants infected with boxwood blight should contact their local MSU Extension office.

Famed rose breeder David Austin dies at age 92

January 3, 2019 • Leave a Comment

David Austin, the rosarian and founder of David Austin Roses Ltd., died in December, 2018 at age 92. Over the past 20 years, U.S. and Canadian gardeners came to know Austin as the creator of beautiful, fragrant English roses.

He bred more than 200 English roses during his extraordinary career. From a farming background, Austin developed a keen interest in old roses in his early twenties. He felt that although the old roses were charming and often had magnificent fragrances, they were lacking in the color diversity and repeat blooming common to the more modern hybrid teas. This belief was the basis for the collection of English roses that gardeners enjoy today. He set about creating an entirely new rose, which combined the beauty and fragrance of old roses with the benefits of modern roses. His first English rose was ‘Constance Spry,’ launched in 1961. Notable varieties include ‘Gertrude Jekyll’—twice voted England’s favorite rose—and more recently, ‘Olivia Rose Austin.’

David Austin Jr., son and Managing Director of the company for the last 25 years said, “My father was a remarkable man. His love for the art of rose breeding was truly inspiring; he loved nothing more than seeing the pleasure that his roses gave to others.
His presence will be sorely missed within the global family company that he created. But the passion he instilled will continue and we will hold true to my father’s vision when he founded the company almost 50 years ago.”

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Glory of the snow (Chionodoxa)