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PLEASE NOTE: In the autumn of 1995, we hatched the idea for a free, local gardening publication. The following spring, we published the first issue of Michigan Gardener magazine. Advertisers, readers, and distribution sites embraced our vision. Thus began an exciting journey of helping our local gardening community grow and prosper.
After 27 years, nearly 200 issues published, and millions of copies printed, we have decided it is time to end the publication of our Print Magazine and E-Newsletter.

Using the heat index to monitor insect and plant activity in the landscape

March 31, 2020   •   Leave a Comment

by Steve Turner

Heat index is an important tool in determining insect and plant activity in the landscape. This is an effective way to determine when to begin looking for signs of problems or to take preventative measures.

The whole heat index system is based upon average degree days of 50 or above (called DD50), since most insect activity is triggered by temperatures of 50 degrees. 50 is used as a base, so for each degree above 50 the temperature rises, so does the DD50. For example, a 70 degree day would have a DD50 of 20. Entomologists have charted insects according to how many DD50s it takes for them to become active and develop into different life stages (egg, nymph, larva, and adult). For instance, it takes the birch leaf miner adult an average DD50 of 180 to emerge and start laying eggs in the tissue of birch leaves, while the larva needs 262 DD50s to become active.

You are now probably wondering how you are supposed to keep track of every degree above 50, add them all up, and use this information. The good news is you don’t have to—Mother Nature does it automatically. Just look at the plants around you and they will tell you when it’s time. Just like insects, plants are triggered by temperature to start and continue development as the season progresses. We use what are called phenological indicators to put the two together and read the signs that nature gives us. A good example would be lilacs: when the lilacs are blooming, we know that the birch leaf miner will be laying its eggs, so that’s when we need to start treating our birches to get the best control.

When we have erratic weather, you might as well throw your reference books out the window if they only specify dates. The plants in your landscape, however, are never wrong. They provide many excellent phenological indicators and also some that are just approximate. Many books and magazines will publish these indicators, so keep your eyes open for them. You can also discover and use your own. If you pay close attention to 1) when a problem is first noticed, and 2) what plant in your yard is coming into bloom or going through some other change at the same time as the problem, then often you can count on the two occurring at the same time next year. Make a note of it and when you see that same plant flowering next year, you will know to also check the other plant to see if the problem is indeed reoccurring. 

Here are some common indicators that can help you keep your pest problems under control:

  1. Eastern tent caterpillars egg hatch – red maple first bloom.
  2. Gypsy moth egg hatch – PJM rhododendron bloom.
  3. Elm, birch and box elder leaf miner – lilac bloom.
  4. Cooley spruce gall aphid egg hatch – viburnum lantana bloom.

Steve Turner, Certified Arborist, is from Arboricultural Services in Fenton, MI.

You might also like: When is the best time to prune trees and shrubs?

Learn more about: Using Degree Days to Time Treatments for Insect Pests

Filed Under: Tree Tips Tagged With: dd50, heat index, insect activity, plant activity

Challenge: Help frontline healthcare workers fighting COVID-19

March 27, 2020   •   Leave a Comment

Daryl Toby, owner of AguaFina Gardens International, contacted us about his COVID-19 challenge for businesses and individuals to check their inventory and storage for personal protection equipment (PPE). These items are needed immediately by our front line health care workers. Examples of these supplies are:

• New or unused disposable face masks
• N-95 mask (sometimes called respirators)
• Eye protection including face shields and safety goggles
• Disposable gowns
• Disposable gloves (especially non-latex)
• Disposable surgical caps
• Disposable foot covers
• Home-sewn reusable masks
• PAPRs (powered air purifying respirators) and PAPR hoods
• Wipes: bleach or anti-microbial
• Hand-sanitizer

We encourage you take the challenge:
1. Find any supplies you may have – even small quantities!
2. Post photo/video on social media with tags below.
3. Find out where to drop off donations.
4. Challenge others to get the word out!

Thank you!

#supportcv19frontline
#protecthealthcareworkers
#aguafinagardens

Filed Under: Clippings Tagged With: Coronavirus, COVID-19, PPE

Why won’t my hydrangeas bloom?

March 26, 2020   •   Leave a Comment

I planted 2 Endless Summer hydrangeas and they bloomed beautifully. Over the next 2 years, I planted 4 more in a row next to the 2 originals, and they bloomed well. Last summer, however, the first two (which are 3 times the size of the last two) had beautiful, healthy foliage but absolutely no blooms. There were a couple of buds just forming in late August. Any suggestions to get the originals to bloom again this summer?

Endless Summer hydrangea (H. macrophylla) is a remontant (everblooming) variety. There is the initial late spring flush followed by sporadic blooming through the growing season. It blooms on both old and new wood growth. Wonderful attributes, if managed properly. In the North, these hydrangeas like full morning sun and afternoon shade from heat. Make sure the plants are getting about 5 to 6 hours of sun. Check that a tree or outbuilding isn’t shading them more than necessary.

Lack of bloom and robust foliage can indicate too much water and too much nitrogen-rich fertilizer. Check your watering practices. Water thoroughly but less frequently. They like rich, moist soil, but not saturated soil. A quality, slow-release granular fertilizer applied once in spring or early summer should suffice for these acid-lovers.

Be careful when and how much you prune. Don’t cut them back to the ground like the old-fashioned ‘Annabelle.’ Endless Summer does bloom on new wood, but if you severely prune them, you lose the benefit of old wood flower buds. The few buds you saw forming in August is how long it took the new wood to catch up. Review and adjust your maintenance practices, and you should have a better bloom season on the originals as well as the newer plantings.

Other posts about hydrangeas:

Why have my Hydrangeas changed bloom colors?

Filed Under: Ask MG Tagged With: bloom, Endless Summer, hydrangea, macrophylla

Choosing drought-tolerant annuals

March 8, 2020   •   Leave a Comment

Last summer we planted portulacas on a cemetery plot. Unfortunately, critters ate and pulled out the blooms. The cemetery requires annuals only. Could you suggest some other flowers we could use that are critter proof and will do well in full sun and with limited watering.

Moss roses (Portulaca) are drought tolerant since they have a taproot as well as surface roots, and their leaves and stems are able to store water. This drought tolerance makes them desirable to animals that are looking for a drink during a dry spell. Your moss roses were probably a tasty treat for the critters that helped themselves to them. A cemetery is a safe environment for animals that are nocturnal eaters, such as rabbits. The moss roses were a good choice for a cemetery if not for those pesky critters. There are some traits that may make plants less desirable to rabbits and deer, and those include strong odors and fuzzy leaves.

An annual is a plant that completes its life cycle in one season and, unlike perennials that can become drought tolerant after they are established, annuals do not have enough time for that process to occur. It is important to choose healthy plants from a reputable garden center so that you know they have been consistently watered and have a strong start. Plants that have been allowed to dry out while in pots or flats have been stressed and do not have the best chance of survival. Choose a disease-resistant variety and plant after all danger of frost has passed. Add some organic matter such as compost or manure to the soil when you are planting. Space your plants properly according to directions to allow air circulation around the plants to help prevent disease. Consistent watering is important for the first month. If Mother Nature doesn’t provide it, you may want to. Deadheading spent blooms, if necessary, and fertilizing according to plant needs will keep them producing blooms throughout the season.

Some choices to consider that are drought-tolerant, like full sun, and may be less desirable to critters include: marigolds, pot marigolds (Calendula), celosia, cleome (there are some dwarf varieties that would be well suited to your site), cosmos, dusty miller, zinnia ‘Profusion,’ ageratum, wax begonia, and globe amaranth.

Filed Under: Ask MG Tagged With: celosia, cleome, drought-tolerant annuals, Moss roses

Janet’s Journal: The Five Plants You Meet in Heaven

March 4, 2020   •   5 Comments

With apologies to Mitch Albom and thanks to Mike Bosnich…

On the day she died, Diane was working on her rain garden. She had become known in the neighborhood as ‘the woman digging the ditch.’ The small children of the neighborhood had told her this. Little kids liked her. To them, she wasn’t the woman digging the ditch but “the lady with the flowers.”

This oak may be 400 years old. It has seen much in four centuries, but nothing quite so devastating as building construction. It may seem quite far from the house that was constructed, but its roots were affected. Note the dead limbs and the flat top that developed when central limbs slowed in growth or declined.

She dug, week by week for over a year, not a ditch, but depressed channels beginning at downspouts then joining, sloping and widening toward the wet area. She disconnected the downspouts from plastic drain tiles that had emptied into the storm drain. Now, rainwater from the roof coursed along the route she’d chosen and settled into that low space.

She’d planted tiny divisions of wetland plants there, and retained the edge of the sunken area with rough cedar logs and fieldstone. She was almost done, the day she died.

It came quickly. An aneurysm, they’d tell her husband.

What she knew was being very tired suddenly, and sitting down at the edge of the rain garden, thinking of salamanders. Light flashed. She closed her eyes.

She opened them to see the oak.

Selma’s massive white oak. Someone who knew trees had guessed it was 400 years old when Selma and her husband built their house nearby.

Shaking her head as if to clear a mirage, Diane stood. Under her feet she found not her rain garden but Selma’s patio. As she looked out across the big yard to the huge tree, a soft rumble filled her head, then sorted itself into words.

Rain garden. Modern building practice has been to grade properties toward streets, packing the surface soil so rainwater runs off, along paved surfaces and into storm drains. A great deal of pollutants run with it. City planners are trying now to correct this problem by advocating the use of rain gardens—wide, shallow depressions that are natural water filters where water can slow and sink in.

“You’ve come. I’ve waited for you.”

“Who…? What…?” she wondered.

“Me. You call me oak. We were acquainted. After I died I was given the job of waiting here until you died.”

“You died? Oh, what a shame… Wait. I died?”

“We died. Don’t be alarmed. You just need time to see it. My death took much longer than yours. I was given more time to prepare. Now, we’re both here and I can tell you about how you killed me.”

“I killed you? No! I helped Selma save you!”

“You had good intentions. I knew that. Now, I must tell you how it came out, and introduce you to others you affected. Sit. Listen.”

She sat.

“I grew in this good place a long time, and was still growing,” rumbled the oak. “People camped. Collected my nuts to grind into meal. Happy people, singers. With many children. They came and went, carrying their homes with them.”

“Indians?” Diane wondered.

“I suppose. Hunters. Fishers. They stopped coming when the farmers came. The farmers rested horses beneath my branches, and plowed above my roots.”

“Then, machines came. They tore down into my roots, there where you are sitting. They crushed the ground between us, heaped soil over my roots, and packed it down. You told Selma to help me.”

“Yes!”

“She did, with water and by loosening that soil. But it took many seasons to grow those roots that were taken from me, and other ones died when they could not breathe. I would have needed many, many seasons to heal.”

“I told Selma to put mulch under you, to get rid of the grass. You were looking better!”

“Yes, at first. You told her also that she could plant bulbs. Spring bulbs, you said, that could bloom each year before my new leaves came. They were very pretty flowers. They didn’t mean to kill me, any more than you did.”

“But how…”

“Selma got older, slower. She wanted more bulbs but thought she couldn’t plant them herself. She hired people. They planted bigger, fancier flowers, more every year. They used drills to make holes. They cut more roots each time. I couldn’t keep up.”

“I’m so sorry.”

“It happens. But look—I’m here, but also still there.”

“There? That other house?”

“Selma’s children. They sent me to a mill, and built a house, a table, a stairway of me.”

“Why tell me this? 

“Because that’s how it works. We leave there, we come here, we look at how we are all connected.”

“I never meant…”

“I know. But now you see how things add up. I learned too. About smaller trees I shaded out, squirrels I nourished, small children who fell from my branches.”

“Now,” said the oak, “you must meet the others.”

“Others? Wait…”

But the light dimmed, and she was back where she’d died, in her rain garden.

She was standing and looking toward the neighbor’s.

“Come here!” sang a merry chorus. She saw a cluster of cheery white strawberry flowers, each canted toward her.

“So glad to see you, so glad to say thank you,” they trilled.

“For what?” she asked, stepping toward them.

“For water! Yes! For chicken manure! Oh, yes!” They appeared to be calling and answering, a song in two parts.

“But you’re not in my garden,” Diane said, crouching to watch them more closely.

“No, but we’re downhill, aren’t we?!” they said. “You left the water on. It rolled down the lawn, where it’s packed so hard. It came to us cool, and loaded with the fertilizer you spread there!”

“Well, I’ll be…” she said, looking toward her own home and noticing for the first time the slight uphill grade from the strawberry bed to her house.

“The kids came to see us, we gave them fruit. Then chipmunks, rabbits, and groundhogs. It was a party!”

“It was?” she wondered. “It isn’t any more?”

“Nothing lasts forever,” the sweet voices answered. “That channel intercepts the water now. We’ve moved on!”

“Am I supposed to learn from that? That you grew because of my sprinkler, and then I stopped it by making the rain garden?”

“Yes, learn that it happened. That things flow downhill,” they called in close harmony.

A gardener should be thorough in assessing a site, picking plants to match it, and deciding why particular plants fare well (above photo) or poorly there (bottom photo, far left plant). For instance, we think of astilbe as a shade plant, but moisture and cool temperatures may be more crucial to its health. It can grow even in full sun if the soil there does not dry out.

“Well, thank you for telling me,” she said.

“Are you done, then?” came another chorus, thinner and more raspy.

Diane looked toward the sound, to see a throng of astilbe. Droopy, singed, thin astilbe. “Oh, she said. What happened to you?”

“We dried up,” was the crackling reply. “Because Ralph did well!”

The plants’ leaves suddenly formed pointing arms. Diane looked that way to see a lush, glossy, deep green astilbe on the far edge of the strawberry bed.

“I didn’t want any trouble,” Ralph cried. “I never asked for your water and fertilizer!”

“Oh,” she said. “You too?”

“Yes, me too. I kept getting it even when the strawberries were cut off, since I’m ahead of your ditch. But my brother, Shelby, on the other side of this crabapple, didn’t.”

Diane stopped, looking at that group of scorched astilbe. Their rustling movement became a blur. The sound changed.

She looked up, into blue green leaves riffled by wind, and around at striped gray bark. At a thicket of some kind.

The riffle changed tone. It became applause.

Voices joined in. “Thank you! Brava!”

“You’re welcome,” she replied, of lifelong habit. “But, I’m sorry. I don’t know who you are. Where we are. What you are happy about.”

“Serrrrrrrr-viceberry,” the leaves said, sliding against each other. And some giggled. “You gave us this place, all this room to grow, and the ticklish feeling of these birds in our branches every summer.”

“Are you sure?” she asked, looking through the foliage to a field, a rise and a dip, and a far horizon of dark water. “I don’t think I’ve ever been here.”

“Maybe not, but the man with one leg was. You knew him. You talked, and he let us grow.”

The voices waited then, murmuring just a little among themselves. Diane looked down, thinking.

“There was a man, I saw him at the doctor’s a few times. That man?”

Applause again. “That man! You told him he could manage. Not to sell his family’s farm and move in with his daughter. He could. He did. He stopped mowing out here, though. And we grew.”

Serviceberry (Amelanchier species) are pioneer trees, often the first to populate a field once farming or mowing stops. Seeds may be dropped by passing birds. They’re native throughout Michigan, an important food source for birds and small mammals, and attractive additions to a landscape.

“So this thanks is for saying encouraging things, polite conversation?”

Laughter, light, louder, then light again, brushed back and forth through the branches. “You see! Everything we do, matters. Thank you!”

“You’re welcome,” she said, looking toward the distant water. “Hey, maybe I have been here! Is that Lake Superior? Are we in the U.P.?”

She looked back to the serviceberries, and started. They were gone. Her nose was just inches from a fence.

She began to step back. A whisper came through the spaces between the wood slats. “Wait. I need to say thanks.”

She paused, looking through the opening. Twigs scratched across the gap. “Are you on the other side of the fence?” she wondered.

“Yes. Thank you for the air,” was the scratchy response. “You told them to give us a fence that lets air through.”

“I can’t think who you mean, or which fence this is,” she apologized.

“You talked in line, at a store. They were putting up a privacy fence. You told them plants do better if there’s air. They hadn’t thought of that.”

“Well, you’re welcome,” she said, bewildered. “Can I ask a question?”

“Oh, please do!” tapped the twigs.

“First, can I see you better?”

“Certainly!” came the scritchy answer. “There’s a gate there.”

In the gateway, she froze. She saw her childhood home, its property line planted with lilac. “I told people about a fence, and those people were living in the house where I grew up?”

“Small world, isn’t it?” tapped the lilacs.

Article by Janet Macunovich and photos by Steven Nikkila, www.gardenatoz.com.

Filed Under: Janet’s Journal Tagged With: Janet Macunovich, Janet’s Journal

Plant Focus: Viola

March 3, 2020   •   Leave a Comment

Viola cornuta (Photo: Jonathon Hofley / Michigan Gardener)

by George Papadelis

In the spring, the earliest bedding plants to appear at your local garden center are violas and pansies. These are usually available in flats and look similar except violas have smaller flowers than pansies. So, what is the real difference between violas and pansies and is this the same “violet” that has spread all over my friend’s yard? As a matter of fact, the plants referred to as “violas,” “pansies,” and “sweet violets” are all in the same group of plants, namely the genus Viola.

Viola cornuta ‘Jersey Gem’ (Photo: White Flower Farm)

Pansies are the result of crossing different species of violas. These “hybrids” (called Viola x wittrockiana) have flowers 2 to 4 inches across and include an incredible range of colors including white, black and practically every color in the rainbow. These plants will tolerate freezes and frosts, so gardeners can plant them as early as April 1 here in Michigan. They will flower profusely all spring and if old flowers are removed, they will most likely continue through the summer. The cool fall will encourage more flowering, which often lasts until the winter holidays. In our climate, pansies planted in a protected area usually return one more season for another performance, although somewhat less spectacular. Protected areas include the south side of the house and the cooler east side.

The smaller-flowering viola (Viola cornuta), sold in flats every spring, has evolved greatly. Several series such as the “Princess” series and the “Sorbets” have introduced new colors and color combinations that rival the closely related Johnny jump-up (Viola tricolor). Violas planted in our climate last one or two seasons. Just like pansies, spent flowers must be removed to encourage flowering through the hot summer.

Viola

Botanical Name: Viola cornuta (vy-OH-lah kor-NEW-tah)
Common Name: Violet, horned violet
Plant Type: Hardy annual/tender perennial
Plant Size: 5-10 inches tall
Flower Color: White, purple, violet, yellow, maroon
Flower Size: 1-1/2 inches wide
Bloom Period: Spring to fall
Light: Partial sun to sun
Soil: Well-drained, moist
Hardiness: Zone 5
Uses: Areas that are partially sunny, yet moist
Remarks: Remove spent flowers to encourage blooms through the summer

Viola cornuta (Photo: Jonathon Hofley / Michigan Gardener)

The dangerous member of this group is Viola odorata or “sweet violets” which are often just referred to as “violets.” These are very perennial, produce fragrant, small flowers in the spring, and may spread everywhere if you let them. Like violas and pansies, sweet violets produce seeds which may germinate and produce more plants. However, sweet violets also send underground stems called stolons in all directions, which may be difficult to find and remove. This invasive nature makes it an excellent groundcover or a wildflower in a naturalized site. Sweet violets have also been planted for as long as gardens have existed. The flower market in Athens, Greece sold sweet violets as early as 400 B.C. Its fragrance has been used by the perfume industry for centuries and is still being used by some today.

All members of the genus Viola produce edible flowers. Chefs all over the world use these showy blossoms as an attractive garnish, especially on salads. The blossoms also make great cut flowers and are among the most popular flowers for pressing. Members of the Viola family grow best in partial sun but full sun can be tolerated. High temperatures and drying out will cause stress, so keep the soil moist and cool if possible.

Viola cornuta ‘Cuty’ (Photo: White Flower Farm/Michael Dodge)

Gardeners looking for something different may want to try the purple-leafed viola (Viola labridorica) for its attractive foliage and fluorescent purple flowers. Other violas such as Viola koreana even have attractive silver patterned leaves. The bird’s foot violet (Viola pedata) is easy to identify because the leaves look just like a bird’s foot.

From a naturalizing habit to being self-contained, the genus Viola is so diverse that every gardener is sure to have a spot for at least one variety!

George Papadelis is the owner of Telly’s Greenhouse in Troy and Shelby Township, MI.

Filed Under: Plant Focus Tagged With: annual, pansy, spring, viola, Viola cornuta

Tar spot on maple leaves

February 28, 2020   •   Leave a Comment

Do the enclosed leaves come from diseased trees? There have been spots on the autumn leaves from these 2 trees for the last couple years, but not as many as last fall. They are the neighbor’s backyard trees, but the leaves fall into our yard. Are they dangerous to other growth or to the soil in our garden? The neighbor said if we wanted to have them cut down, he would not object.

The maple trees are infected with a fungus known as “tar spot” (Rhytisma acerinum). Many maple species are host to the fungus which is readily visible and, therefore, one of the easiest maple diseases to diagnose. Fortunately, it is one of the least damaging ailments on its host. It can cause early leaf drop but does not cause serious harm to established trees.

The tar-like spot is a fruiting structure of the fungus that survives the winter on fallen leaves. The following spring, just as new leaves are unfolding, the fungal tissue in the leaves on the ground ripens. The surfaces of the spots split and minute, needle-like spores escape. The spores are carried by the wind and, if they land on new leaves of a susceptible host, they may germinate, penetrate the leaf tissue, and start a new disease cycle.

Tar spot will not affect your soil health. Fungi are host specific and this fungus will only affect maple and sycamore trees. The most effective management practice is to rake and destroy the infected leaves in the fall. This will reduce the number of overwintering “spots” (fungal reproductive structures) that can produce spores the following spring. An almost as effective alternative is to mulch the leaves. But the mulch pile should be covered or turned before new leaves begin to emerge in the spring in order to destroy many of the spores before they mature.

What is quite interesting is that the apparent absence of the fungus in urban areas and abundance in rural areas has led to its use as a biological indicator of air pollution. Researchers think the absence in urban areas is caused by the amount of sulfur dioxide (exhausted by combustion engines) in the air.

Filed Under: Ask MG Tagged With: fungus, maple, Rhytisma acerinum, tar spot

Preferred growing conditions for redbuds

February 24, 2020   •   Leave a Comment

I bought a 4-foot tall redbud and it has not grown at all. It leafs out, blooms for spring, then it looks dead by mid-August. Maybe it has verticillium wilt? Does this come back every year? If so, how do I prevent it?

Eastern redbud (Cercis canadensis) is highly valued in the urban landscape for its pink spring flowers and its smaller, manageable size. As an understory tree, it prefers moist, well-drained, deep soils. It tolerates various soil types, except those that are permanently wet, and adapts to full sun or light shade. Regular watering and fertilizing are keys to keeping it vigorous. Unfortunately, it suffers dramatically from lack of water, too much water, or mechanical injury.

Since your redbud does bloom and leaf out in spring, but looks dead by mid-August, your tree may be responding to inconsistent water patterns. There is plenty of moisture available in spring, from snowmelt and rain. By the apex of summer heat, the redbud may be packing all its energy into saving moisture for survival by dropping leaves and going dormant. This is not the typical pattern of a tree suffering from the soil-borne fungus verticillium wilt, which is incurable and progresses over time until the tree is dead.

Before assuming your redbud has this disease, consider the soil conditions where you planted it and your maintenance practices. Is the tree in the middle of lawn, competing with turf up to its trunk for moisture and nutrients? Is it subject to potential mowing damage? Has it ever received a slow-release granular fertilizer beyond its nursery container? Does it get regular deep watering during periods of no rain? With conscientious adjustments to maintenance and amendments, you strengthen your redbud’s ability to withstand such diseases as verticillium wilt, canker, and even insect pests.

With the new growing season upon us, re-examine your plant maintenance routine and strategize a consistent watering program as well as a spring and fall granular fertilizer application. If your tree is sited in lawn, remove the turf away from the trunk out to the tree’s drip line so the root zone has an equal chance for water. The redbud likes moist (not soggy) soil that is well-drained and rich, medium sunlight, and fertilizer to replenish what was used from its original container. Be observant about the tree’s progress through the season, and you may get to enjoy your redbud’s lovely yellow fall display.

Filed Under: Ask MG

Diagnosing and preventing brown spots in lawn

January 25, 2020   •   Leave a Comment

In my lawn, there are random brown spots about the size of a tennis ball or slightly larger. This condition only seems to happen during mid to late summer, nothing earlier. I fertilize about every six weeks and mow weekly, never cutting more than 1/3 of the grass blade. I don’t have pets, though there are plenty of squirrels and birds. I have a lawn irrigation system that I operate on designated days with about 20 minutes in each zone. What is causing the brown spots and how do I eliminate them?

What a great analysis of your lawn problem; it shows you pay attention to details in the management of your turf. It appears you have a fungal disease called “dollar spot,” so named because the sunken dead spots are about the size of a silver dollar. The spots are about 2 to 3 inches wide, and several spots may grow together, killing a larger area. The fungus can survive in an unseen dormant state in infected turf. When the daytime temperatures reach 60 to 80 degrees, it resumes growth and infects healthy grass blades. Dollar spot occurs when a combination of warm days and cool nights produce dew on the lawn in the morning, which was our mid to late summer pattern this year.

You are mowing exactly the right way. The fact you need to mow once a week says your lawn is actively growing and is probably receiving sufficient fertilizer to maintain nitrogen levels. Kentucky bluegrass, a cool-season grass, grows most vigorously in the cooler months of fall and spring. So, the most important time to feed it is in spring and fall. Feeding every six weeks as you are doing may be unnecessary.

For the best lawn appearance, Ron Calhoun at Michigan State University’s Turf Management Center recommends the “holiday program.” Make one full application about Memorial Day, a half-strength application around the 4th of July, a half-strength application around Labor Day, and one full application around Thanksgiving. Include the pre-emergents for crabgrass with the last one.

The key adjustment for you may be in the amount of water. Your irrigation system may be set to compensate for drought conditions. Try reducing the irrigation frequency and duration, and avoid watering in late afternoon and evening. The rate should be 1/10 inch per ten minutes. Water in mid-morning so that the grass has time to dry out before nightfall. Check the amount of thatch in your lawn. It could benefit from core aeration, a mechanical process that methodically punches holes in the turf and pulls tiny plugs of soil to the surface. Aerating does exactly what it sounds like: it increases air spaces for healthy root growth. If you want to reseed areas, look for resistant bluegrass varieties such as Adelphi, Eclipse, or Vantage. With minor changes and adjustments, you should see those dollar spots disappear from your lawn. 

Filed Under: Clippings Tagged With: brown spots, brown spots in lawn, diagnosing, grass

Deterring sparrows from the birdfeeder

January 20, 2020   •   Leave a Comment

The sparrows seem to be overtaking our birdfeeder for the finches even though it’s one of those that requires the birds to eat “upside down.” How can I deter the sparrows from throwing thistle all around, wasting it, and interfering with the finches? Would it help to wrap the feeder with a kind of chicken wire that might only allow the smaller finches inside to eat?

The sparrows overtaking your finch feeder are most likely English sparrows, commonly referred to as the house sparrow. They are hard to control around many backyard birdfeeders. They have a tendency to overpower feeders that have a variety of feeds intended for our more desirable native birds. Goldfinches and other small native birds will steer clear of feeders that are occupied by the English sparrows.

Here are two homemade control measures that have been deemed worth a try. The first is an inexpensive method developed by Weir Nelson of Cedar Rapids, Iowa, and used on open port tube feeders with perches. Bend a 10-inch piece of flexible wire in half. Feed the wire through the port and loop it over one perch, then pull it tight and tie off around the other perch. When completed, you’ll have two parallel strands of wire stretched through the center of the port between the opposite perches. The two strands of wire discourage the sparrow from easily extracting seeds from the feed port. It has no effect on finches, chickadees, nuthatches, or other songbirds.

The second method is to shorten the length of perches on thistle tube feeders so they only extend 5/8 of an inch. The shortened perches will not disrupt the ability of goldfinch, house finch, and other members of the finch family from feeding, but should deter the sparrows.

Commercially there is a product available called “The Magic Halo” that seems to be effective. When used in conjunction with either a post-mounted or hanging feeder, it is said to deter up to 86 percent of the English sparrows. With monofilament lines added to the “Halo” at four corners extending below the perches, the elimination of English sparrows from the feeder is said to exceed 99 percent.

There are also several feeders available that have a screen or cage around the actual feeder. It will let the small birds feed while keeping bigger species from getting to the seeds. In general, to discourage unwanted visitors from your feeders, don’t use cracked corn or millet, and don’t use feed mixes, unless they are free of the aforementioned ingredients. Try seeds that are species specific. Many songbirds love black oil sunflower seeds, for example, and will not miss the mixes.

Filed Under: Clippings Tagged With: birdfeeder, Deterring sparrows, sparrows

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