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PLEASE NOTE: In the autumn of 1995, we hatched the idea for a free, local gardening publication. The following spring, we published the first issue of Michigan Gardener magazine. Advertisers, readers, and distribution sites embraced our vision. Thus began an exciting journey of helping our local gardening community grow and prosper.
After 27 years, nearly 200 issues published, and millions of copies printed, we have decided it is time to end the publication of our Print Magazine and E-Newsletter.

Choosing and growing herbal topiaries

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Jean and Roxanne Riggs
Herbal topiaries – rosemary, scented geranium and santolina.by Jean and Roxanne Riggs

As more and more people are discovering the joys of gardening in containers, both indoors and in the garden, the use of herbs in the containers has also grown in popularity. Many of the woody-stemmed herbs are especially well-suited to being grown and trimmed into artistic shapes, and the grower is doubly rewarded with a beautiful plant that can be fragrant and useful in the kitchen. Herbal topiaries require time and commitment but are among the most lovely of all potted plants. They let the herb gardener experience different plant habits and needs, along with developing creative ways to display a natural herb.

How to plant and maintain a topiary

Herb plants that are to be trained into topiaries will need the best care that you can give them. Adequate light is important, so plan on giving them at least 5 hours of sunlight a day. They must have sunlight or grow lights during the winter months when they are indoors. Pay attention to the soil in which you are growing them and make sure they have excellent drainage. Clay pots with holes in the bottom are very useful as they help with drainage; you can line the bottom inch of the pot with stones or broken pot pieces to make it even better. One of the high quality soilless mixes available at garden centers is the best choice for a growing medium. Once the plant is established and growing well, you will have to fertilize it regularly since plants grown in containers have no way of getting nutrients unless you add them. A slow-release fertilizer is recommended. Watering is very important; if the soil gets dry to the touch, you must water thoroughly. Relying on the rain will not work and you cannot sit the pot in water or it will rot the roots. Misting encourages molds and mildew on leaves. A good drenching with a watering can or watering wand attached to a hose will really do the job. In cold climates, herbal topiaries are not hardy and must be kept in good growing conditions year round. Topiaries should be moved inside before the first frost in the fall. The ideal temperatures would be 65 degrees or higher in the daytime, and 55 degrees or higher at night.

Herb plant choices

Herb plants that make good candidates to be grown artistically include most of the woody-stemmed varieties:

• Rosemary (Rosmarinus officinalis) for the upright topiaries and prostrate rosemary (R. officinalis ‘Prostratus’) for training into the more intricate shapes like hearts and circles, as well as bonsai.

• Lavender (Lavandula angustifolia, L. lanata, L. dentata and others) although the constant removal of the tips to shape the topiary may eliminate the flowers.

• Thyme (Thymus) has upright varieties that are very good for people with limited space because of their small size.

• Germander (Teucrium) with its tiny fragrant leaves that resemble oak leaves.

• Sage (Salvia officinalis) in its many colored varieties or pineapple sage (Salvia elegans) with its fruity aroma.

• Lemon verbena (Aloysia triphylla) with its strong, sweet lemon fragrance and flavor—just imagine the shocked look on the faces of your guests when you pick a leaf from your prized topiary to flavor your tea!

• Myrtle (Myrtus communis) in its compact or variegated forms.

• Bay (Laurus nobilis) which is a classic shape and the largest of the plants listed here.

• Savory (Satureja montana) has shiny leaves and good taste; reputed to have been named after “satyr” for its aphrodisiac qualities.

• Scented geranium (Pelargonium) with its many varieties, although we recommend that you stay with the smaller-leaved types. Don’t bother with annuals since their short life span makes it foolish to spend your time pruning and trimming.

 

Creating your topiary

Many of the above plants come in beautiful variegated leaf varieties. However, we stay away from the yellow-leaved types since they sometimes look sick or uncared for in this type of use. Select young plants, from a reliable herb farm or nursery, that are tall and have a straight center stem if you want them to grow upright into the lollypop or poodle shape, or lax and trailing stems if you want them to grow on a wire form. The new plant should be transferred into a 4- or 5-inch clay pot with the soilless mix after purchase.

To start the single ball topiary, which consists of foliage clipped into a tight ball on the top of a sturdy stem, you should begin trimming the lowest leaves and branches. At least 1/3 of the plant’s foliage must remain so it will continue to grow and thrive. Keep doing this until the plant has grown to the height you want it. When the proper height is achieved, pinch the tip off. Place a bamboo stake that is just shorter than the plant into the pot to keep the plant stem straight. Use a few twist ties to loosely attach it to the stake, but don’t strangle the plant as it grows. Now cut off the bottom branches and clip the other branches to start the shape of the ball. During this part of the training process, the plant looks less than lovely. However, it will quickly fill in with new leaves and small branches and look like the art work you had in mind when you started. The same things should be done for the other shapes too, like the double ball or the cone, keeping in mind the ultimate shape and form that you want the plant to achieve. If you make a mistake (and who doesn’t?) don’t worry, the plant will grow back and give you a second chance. It just might take a little longer.

Tools that help

Even the beginner needs some basic tools to use. A really good, sharp pair of garden scissors is a great asset. Be prepared to spend $20 to $45 for these. Stay away from the large pruners for now. A pair of garden tweezers is handy for removing dead leaves and other debris. Bamboo stakes or a preformed topiary wire shape are necessary right from the start since the selection of the plants to be used depends on what the ultimate size and shape of the topiary will be. Plant ties or twist ties, preferably green, that can be cut to the sizes necessary are essential. For some of the heavier stems it might be necessary to use a wire to keep the shape desired. Clay pots are good and are heavy enough to support the taller topiaries. If the wind blows one over, double pot the plant with a second pot at least two to three inches larger than the interior pot. Layer the bottom of the outer pot with pebbles, and fill the sides with the pebbles after the interior pot has been placed into the second pot. Another trick is to run a longer bamboo stake through one of the drainage holes and down into the ground to keep them from blowing about too much.

If you are going to give one of your beauties away as a gift, be sure to include a “care tag” for the lucky recipient. Include the name of the plant and a recipe if it is a culinary herb, and basic care instructions of light, water, temperature, and clipping so that they will enjoy their topiary for a long time. 

Jean and Roxanne Riggs operated Sunshine Farm and Garden in Commerce Township, MI.

Are your trees making the grade? A proper grade is crucial to tree health

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by Steve Turner

Let’s discuss a leading cause of premature death and decline of many of our landscape trees. It’s not an insect or a disease although it can make them more prone to both. It is easily prevented and in many cases can be corrected. It can kill some trees relatively quickly and others over decades. What is it? Improper grade around the tree.

I’m not talking about the root ball and if it is above ground or not. What I am concerned about is where the root flare is in relation to the soil grade. Can you see the roots as they enter the soil? Can you even see the taper of the trunk? Some trees look like sticks or telephone poles coming out of the soil with absolutely no visible flare at all. These are sure indicators that the plant is too deep, has girdling roots, or both. Think about trees growing in the forest, and how they appear to be “standing” on the soil as opposed to being buried in it. You can easily see the root flare and often the roots themselves as they enter the soil.

Now look at your trees – do you see any resemblance? Unfortunately many of you will not. That is because for years people were told to plant trees deep to create a deeper root system to “help keep the tree from blowing over” or to “keep the roots out of the lawn.” Both reasons seem logical and have their short-term benefits, but in the long run they will decrease the life of the tree.

Another factor is grade change around trees during development. Fill dirt is often spread to even out the grade of the land, and mature trees can be buried beyond their natural root collars. This can affect both naturally-grown trees and those we have planted, but it will not always affect both of them in the same way. Soil structure also plays a role in the time in which a problem will occur. Heavy clay soils will speed up the process while sandy soils can take years to have an impact.

The long-term effects

When a tree has soil placed on it above its root collar, usually one of three things will occur. First, the tree will send out new roots from its buried trunk. If the soil is sandy, they will normally grow away from the trunk, but if the soil is clay, odds are the roots will turn and circle the tree (this is what we call a girdling root). As the tree grows these roots will eventually end up pressed against the trunk, restricting the flow of water and nutrients up to the tree as well as the reverse flow of sugars down to the roots for storage and root growth.

This girdling root has been cut to relive pressure against the tree trunk and allow better movement of water and nutrients up the tree.This girdling root has been cut to relive pressure against the tree trunk and allow better movement of water and nutrients up the tree.

The second problem occurs when the soil around the tree is so compacted that it will not let the tree expand, and starts to restrict it. This can happen when new trees are planted too deep in compacted clay soils. Or it can happen to older, mature trees that were filled around long ago. After decades of the tree growing and pushing the soil back, it has caused the soil to compact around it so densely, it’s almost like cement pressed against the trunk. I recently worked on a large white oak that had 10 to 12 inches of sand filled around it in the 1920’s when the house was built. When I removed the soil around the trunk, the sand was so compressed it came out in chunks that looked like sandstone. It was amazing to see how compacted it had become after 80 years of pressure.

The third thing that can occur usually affects young trees and trees with thin bark like linden, beech, cherry, birch, and mountain ash. They develop cankers along their trunks that can lead to decay in the future or kill so much of the cambium that the tree declines. Trees release gasses through their bark and if it is covered by soil, it can disrupt this process and cause a build up of toxins under the bark, which can lead to cankers.

From the nursery to the landscape

I have seen trees of all types and ages that are too deep, but a large majority seem to be trees planted in the 1970’s and later. Even trees planted above grade can be affected if the soil is mounded too far up the trunk. I think a lot of this has to do with how many times the tree is handled before it is planted. Once a tree is dug from a field it gets balled in burlap and it is difficult to see the original grade at which it grew. Next, it will be buried in mulch until shipped to the nursery, and once it gets there it is reburied in mulch until someone buys it. Each time it is handled it has more mulch piled up against it until the original grade is lost on the top of the ball over time. When the homeowner or landscaper plants the tree they look at the new grade of the tree instead of pulling back all the mulch and built up soil that has accumulated and untying the ball to check the original grade. So the tree is sometimes 6 to 10 inches too deep right from the start. More soil is often added around it or the tree can also sink in the hole, making the problem even worse. Finally, if the tree has mulch piled against the trunk, it will only add to the problem as the mulch breaks down and adds more soil above the original grade. So no longer can we just measure the root ball and dig a hole, time should be taken to uncover the trunk and search for the first lateral roots before the hole is dug.

I know many of you are thinking “my trees look like they could be planted too deep but are doing just fine, so what’s the big deal?” Trees are very resilient and can take years to show the effects of past damage. Rarely is the original problem associated with the decline because so much time has passed until the symptoms become apparent years and years later. What you do to your tree today will not show up for years to come, but it will have an impact on its longevity. 

The soil grade has gradually been lowered around this tree, so that the tree’s root flares are now visible.Things that can be done

If you think your tree might be planted too deep and has been in the ground too long to replant, there are some things that can be done to restore the grade. An arborist’s tool called the Air-Spade uses a high pressure stream of air to remove soil around the base of the tree and inspect the roots and trunk below grade. Although powerful, it is still very gentle around trees. It will remove even the most compacted soil but will not disturb the roots; even the small feeder roots will remain intact. Once the soil is removed we can get a better idea of what is going on below grade. If the root system is a tangled mess or the tree has grown into the wire basket, or even has started to decay from old cankers, at least you will know for sure what the problem is instead of simply making guesses.

I recently uncovered the roots of a dogwood that had been declining for several years. Several companies had tried different treatments with no success. When I looked at the roots, it was clear why the tree was not responding – they looked like a tangled ball of knots and the tree was about a foot too deep. Unfortunately, there was little hope to correct this tree, but at least the homeowner now knew why and could avoid wasting any more money on it, while focusing their attention on what to replace it with.

Many trees will improve by just lowering the grade and installing a well around them if necessary to keep the soil away from their trunks. Some trees may have a couple of girdling roots crossing their trunks and they can usually be removed without causing too much stress on the tree.

Steve Turner is a Certified Arborist from Arboricultural Services in Oakland County, Michigan.

 

Controlling damage from Japanese Beetles

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Japanese beetles are 3/8 inch long and metallic green in color. (Photo: Steven Nikkila / Perennial Favorites)

by Nancy Lindley

Ah, summer! A time when gardeners can relax and enjoy the fruits of their labor. But wait, what’s that insidious cluster on the rose blossoms? Why do leaves of the linden tree have a tattered appearance? Oh no, it’s a Japanese beetle. Why, those creatures must have stomachs made of tempered steel—they’re devouring the poison ivy! And thus begins the beetle battle. Our goal: defeat the enemy. But to defeat the enemy, we must know the enemy. 

Adult Japanese beetles are easy to identify. They’re about 3/8 inch long, metallic-green in color, and emerge from the ground in late June. They feed in groups, starting at the tops of plants, then work their way downward. Individually, Japanese beetles don’t consume much. But collectively, their damage can be devastating—and heart-breaking. Japanese beetles feed on over 300 varieties of plants ranging from sweet corn to birch. They are especially fond of plants that grow rapidly in direct sunlight. Their larvae live in the soil and wreak havoc when they feed on the roots of irrigated turfgrass.

Where the little buggers came from

Japanese beetles appeared in the Northeast United States in 1916, probably arriving in the soil of imported nursery stock. They have been steadily moving outward at a rate of approximately 50 miles a year. They are now found in all areas east of the Mississippi River. Oregon and California are especially concerned with these pests and have rigorous controls on the acceptance of out-of-state nursery stock. Unfortunately, it’s probably only a matter of time until Japanese beetles infest all portions of the country.

The damage that Japanese beetles cause is especially bad at the outer reaches of their territory. That’s because few natural controls exist in newly colonized areas. These pests spend the first ten months of their lives in the soil as grubs, starting in August or September. The following June, adults emerge and congregate on plants where they begin their feeding and breeding frenzy. Adults tend to be highly active on warm, clear days, then return to the soil in the evening. Adults will also stay hunkered down in the soil if the weather turns cold and wet.

Every three or four days for several weeks, adult females will lay one to four eggs, and up to 40 to 60 during their lifetime. 45 days after their emergence, adult beetles say sayonara and begin to die off while, simultaneously, the next generation is beginning to hatch.

Moisture from a late-summer rainfall or irrigation is all that’s needed for eggs and newly hatched grubs to survive. The grubs grow quickly, feeding on grass roots. However, if conditions become too dry, they are capable within a few weeks of moving deeply into the soil for moisture and other roots on which to feed. In autumn, grub-infested turf will appear as large dead patches—the kind of thing that causes severe hair loss and blown capillaries in golf course managers.

When the soil temperature falls below 60 degrees, grubs burrow into the soil and remain there in an inactive state throughout winter (or perhaps read articles like this and plot counter-strategies). In spring, the grubs move toward the surface as soil temperature increases, and resume feeding on grass roots for a brief period. They pupate in an earthen cell and remain there until they emerge as adults.

Natural enemies

Many different birds eat Japanese beetles; however, they prefer to dine on the grubs. And in their effort to search for grubs, they tend to tear up small pieces of turf. Okay, a small problem. A larger problem is the lawn damage created by moles and skunks who also feed on the grubs.

Predaceous insects such as the praying mantis occasionally feed on adult beetles and grubs, as do a few native wasps and flies. However, the role they play in controlling Japanese beetles is relatively minor. Several parasitic wasps, flies and plant-friendly beetles have been imported in an attempt to control the beetles, but have seen only limited success.

Natural controls

Japanese beetles are not a major pest in, of all places, their native Japan and Korea. This is because several natural controls are present. These include (1) an intestinal parasite called a gregarine, which attacks the grubs, (2) a nematode, or microscopic worm, which eats the grubs, and (3) a bacterial disease called milky spore, which infects and kills the grubs.

These controls were introduced in the Northeast United States several years ago and have kept the beetles in check. As a result, researchers at Michigan State University are assessing the success of these controls and are working to establish them in Michigan’s eco-system on a large-scale basis. Unfortunately for homeowners, these controls are not very effective on a small-scale since adult beetles can easily fly into and out of treated areas. Also, these natural controls are effective only on grubs, not adult beetles.

Chemical controls

It’s difficult to control adult beetles with chemical sprays. Plus, these products also kill beneficial insects such as honeybees. Rose fertilizers with systemic insecticides have no effect since individual beetles don’t actually eat much.

Products that contain neem oil are safer and are believed to repel Japanese beetles. However, they, like other chemical sprays, must be applied every few days.

Turf damage from grubs can be prevented with a late July application of Merit (imadichloprid). However, most homeowners can prevent turf damage simply by keeping their lawns adequately irrigated and fertilized. Keep in mind that treatment of your grass for grubs will not appreciably reduce feeding damage from adult beetles, unless your neighbors are treating their lawns too.

Practical control

To prevent grubs from damaging the turf grass at our rose nursery and large display garden, my husband and I simply irrigate and fertilize the grass.

As for adult Japanese beetles, homeowners can benefit from the same technique we use to minimize damage: remove them by hand. That’s not as tedious and time-consuming as it might sound. We have thousands of rose bushes, yet spend less than an hour a day on beetle removal. My husband, the main beetle-control officer (and shall hereafter be known as “Beetle Bailey”), walks through the nursery on sunny afternoons and shakes beetles from each bush into a bucket of soapy water, or plucks them one by one and tosses them in. The beetles don’t die immediately, but the soap coats their wings so they can’t fly. Eventually they drown, and we dispose of them the next day in our trash.

We tried to control Japanese beetles with Sevin, but found we had to spray every few days. Plus, we weren’t comfortable using an insecticide that harms beneficial insects. Beetle Bailey reports that daily hand removal actually takes less time because there is no suiting up, mixing chemicals, application, equipment clean-up or showering afterward.

We found that Japanese beetles are especially fond of fragrant, light-colored roses. If pressed for time, Beetle Bailey only scouts the area of the nursery where our most fragrant roses, the rugosas, reside. He has even cut blossoms off white and yellow rugosas to avoid attracting beetles. Daily removal is better than waiting to do it every few days, since individual beetles are attracted to large groups feeding on blossoms. If you prevent groups from forming, you minimize damage.

We also use professional-grade traps from Tanglefoot on the outer perimeter of our property. Since these traps work by attracting beetles, they may be impractical for small gardens (the beetles may bypass the trap and head for your garden). However, in larger areas consisting of several acres, multiple traps placed in sunny areas can be used to keep beetles away from desirable plants. With professional-grade traps, beetles are collected in a screw-on canister. This canister must be emptied daily, otherwise the beetles die and create an odor that wards off other beetles and prevents the traps from doing their job.

So, when it comes to controlling Japanese beetles, you actually have several options, each offering varying degrees of effectiveness. You can wait for natural enemies to establish themselves, or you can take a more aggressive approach with chemical control or natural control. We prefer practical control at our nursery because it’s probably the safest, simplest and most effective method of all. And no, I’m sorry to report that Beetle Bailey is not for hire.

Nancy Lindley, now retired, owned and operated Great Lakes Roses in Belleville, MI.

Also on MG: Janet’s Journal: Plant damage awareness will help prepare the garden for next year

Related: Japanese beetles – Tips for your lawn

The herb gardens of Greenfield Village

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Dr. Howard’s Garden features a wide variety of medicinal herbs.Text and photos by Jean and Roxanne Riggs

There are three areas in Greenfield Village where there are herbal gardens: The Garden of the Leavened Heart, Dr. Howard’s Garden, and the Burbank Garden. There are herb plants in many other garden areas in the Village, but these three are mainly herbs.

The Garden of the Leavened Heart follows the original 1938 design of Mrs. Clara B. Ford who had the garden designed and selected the herbs to be planted. Dr. Howard’s Garden contains a variety of medicinal herbs that might have been used by doctors in the 1880’s and is located at his house. The Burbank Garden has herbs and herb-related plants, along with everlastings that are harvested and used for herb and craft demonstrations.

These three gardens have been planted and maintained by volunteers from the Village Herb Associates since the early 1980’s. The group was loosely organized by Mary Gerathy in the early 1970’s while she was teaching classes with herbs and dried flowers at Lovett Hall in the Village. When Mary left to pursue other interests, the group continued under the guidance of Shirley Swancutt in the 1980’s. In 1980 there were 25 volunteers who put in a total of 400 hours. In 2005 there were 69 dedicated volunteers from this now well-organized group who logged over 2900 hours ordering and planting seeds, transplanting plants, as well as watering, weeding, and clipping the gardens.

 

Comprised of 4 areas in the shape of hearts, the Garden of the Leavened Heart contains mainly perennial herbs, many of which still follow Clara Ford’s choices.The Garden of the Leavened Heart

Found in front of the Martha Mary Chapel at the edge of the Village Green, The Garden of the Leavened Heart is a beautiful garden whose parts, if pushed together, would form a circle. The parts are separated by pathways, and the planted areas are four hearts. Their connecting parts include a cross through the center, and an inner circle with an exquisite sundial. There is a bench in a stone wall next to the garden where you can sit and admire the garden and the Village Green. The plants are mainly perennial herbs and flowers which still closely follow Mrs. Ford’s choices.

Dr. Howard’s Garden

Dr. Howard’s Garden is a series of eight rectangles filled with plants that might have been used to treat patients in the late nineteenth century. There is an area for women’s health that includes raspberry (Rubus idaeus), red clover (Trifolium pratense), black cohosh (Actaea racemosa), parsley (Petroselinum crispum), and more. The first aid area contains comfrey (Symphytum), pot marigold (Calendula), broad-leaf plantain (Plantago major) which was sometimes called “white man’s foot” since it was spread so widely during colonial times, and flax (Linum). The other areas have plants for respiratory problems, digestive ills, circulatory aids, and even plants to help the nervous system with nice examples of St. John‘s wort (Hypericum perforatum), lavender, valerian (Valeriana), German chamomile (Matricaria recutita), and basil (Ocimum basilicum). The good doctor’s pharmacy was as close as his garden. This is another well-tended garden that is good for its historical information as well as showing how the medicinal plants look while growing.

The Burbank House

The Burbank House has a large garden surrounded by a white picket fence. The garden is divided into planting areas that are accessible by well-maintained pathways. This is a “working garden” that has plants for use and enjoyment. The garden provides a lot of flowers for drying that are later used for craft demonstrations and potpourri. There are benches where you can sit down to rest, and a compost bin to show how to take care of the garden discards.

The Burbank House features a working garden (above) that has plants for use and enjoyment. There are also benches (below) where visitors can take some rest.A large corner garden contains many silver-leaved plants including one of the dusty millers (Artemisia), Russian sage (Perovskia atriplicifolia), sage (Salvia), and the rarely seen cardoon (Cynara) to celebrate the volunteer’s 25th anniversary this year. The center circle garden is made up of circles of boxwood, Santolina, lavender, curry plant (Helichrysum angustifolium), and a central pot with a large bay tree (Laurus nobilis). There are long garden areas of blue salvia, lavender, lots of celosia in different colors and types, many varieties and colors of statice, globe amaranth (Gomphrena), strawflowers (Helichrysum), love-in-a-mist (Nigella), and grasses, including sea oats and millet. These are valuable educational displays for gardeners to evaluate growth habits to see if the plants would be appropriate in their gardens.

The back and side of the Burbank House are also planted with herbs which would have been used in the kitchen. These gardens have a mix of herbs with some flowers, and some herbs used as simple remedies that would have been the responsibility of the lady of the house. This is really a delightful set of gardens that certainly enhances the buildings and their historical accuracy.

Greenfield Village: A Michigan treasure 

Greenfield Village as a part of The Henry Ford historical complex is familiar to nearly everyone in Michigan. It continues to get bigger and better as it ages. Mr. Ford did himself and his chosen city of Dearborn proud when he created this historical masterpiece for the public. The efforts of the Village Herb Associates volunteer organization to make the herbal gardens both beautiful and accurate are appreciated every day by thousands of visitors from all over the world. The Henry Ford provides educational experiences based on authentic objects, stories and lives from America’s traditions of ingenuity, resourcefulness and innovation. Their purpose is to inspire people to learn from these traditions to help shape a better future.

To those of you, especially the gardeners, who haven’t yet made the time to visit Greenfield Village, we encourage you to make the arrangements. You simply won’t believe what you’ve been missing until you have seen the beautiful plantings and pleasant surroundings for yourself. Allow enough time to savor the herb gardens and rest on a bench with a view. If you are so inclined, ask for a list of the plants and let it lead you to more knowledge.

Jean and Roxanne Riggs operated Sunshine Farm and Garden in Commerce Twp, MI.

Plant Focus: Tall verbena (Verbena bonariensis)

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Jonathon Hofley / Michigan Gardener
Clusters of blooms on long stalks add a delicate touch of color.

by George Papadelis

Tall verbena or Verbena bonariensis is one of those plants that no garden should be without. In a sunny location, its lavender purple flowers will sway in the wind atop 3 to 4 foot tall, wiry stems. It will bloom from spring until late fall since its excellent heat tolerance is followed by equally superb frost tolerance. It doesn’t require staking or deadheading and once established, it will rarely (if ever) require watering. And we’ve really only just begun to describe the merits of this terrific plant, which is treated as an annual in areas zone 6 or colder.

The flowers of tall verbena even drop seeds that will germinate the following spring and could be transplanted to create a repeat performance. It reseeds so prolifically that many gardeners treat this species as a “perennial.” I have had an infinite supply of Verbena bonariensis seedlings in between the pavers of my patio for seven years.

In our quest to create perennial gardens that bloom from spring to fall, we are typically burdened with examining the bloom times of countless perennial varieties. One convenient solution is to incorporate annuals with a “perennial look” that will bloom all season. Tall verbena is the perfect choice. And since it is grown from seed, it is usually available in economical flats as opposed to more expensive individual pots. Planting them in clumps of 6 or more gives the best effect. Space plants about 12 inches apart.

In summer annual beds, tall verbena is equally valuable. Annuals growing over three feet tall in shades of bluish purple are rare; only the tall annual aster (‘Matsumoto Blue’) and blue glory bush (Tibouchina) come to mind, and both of these can be hard to find. The small airy flowers of tall verbena are especially effective when contrasted with composite (daisy-type) flowers. Annual black-eyed Susan varieties (Rudbeckia hirta) offer several great choices in shades of yellow, gold, and orange. The electric orange flowers of the dwarf Mexican sunflower (Tithonia ‘Fiesta del Sol’) would also make a perfect companion. Even the red flowers of the common annual geranium (Pelargonium) look fantastic with tall verbena planted behind them.

Eric Hofley / Michigan Gardener
Verbena bonariensis is most dramatic when planted in drifts.

It wouldn’t be fair to not tell you about a Verbena bonariensis relative that I am sure you will also love. Many of you are probably familiar with the creeping or trailing verbenas that are usually hybrids of Verbena canadensis. These are usually grown from cuttings and perform beautifully in pots and beds. But there is another garden worthy species called Verbena rigida or rigid verbena. These also produce purplish-blue flowers, but the plants are only about a foot tall. Cultivars from cuttings have been available, but now there is a seed-grown variety called ‘Santos Purple.’ It has vibrant purple flowers on 10- to 12-inch tall plants. Its vibrant flowers can be seen from low-flying aircraft and my favorite part is that almost nobody can identify it. Even the most plant-savvy gardeners will ask, “What is it?”, “Is it a perennial?”, “Is it an annual?”. If you appreciate plants that are outstanding performers and that may potentially stump onlookers, then you must have Verbena rigida ‘Santos Purple.’

Both of these verbenas may be tricky to locate but they certainly offer traits that make them well worth the hunt. Try them in your garden and you too will soon be saying, “This is one of those plants no garden should be without.”

George Papadelis is the owner of Telly’s Greenhouse in Troy, MI.

 

At a glance: Tall verbena

Botanical name: Verbena bonariensis (ver-BEE-nuh bo-nar-ee-EN-sis)

Plant type: Treated as an annual (tender perennial; hardy to zone 7)

Plant size: 3-4 feet tall, 3 feet wide

 

Habit: Wiry and open

Flower color: Lavender purple

Flower size: Clusters 1 to 1–1/2 inches across

Bloom period: Summer to fall

Light: Sun

Soil: Well-drained

Uses: Annual bed, perennial border

Companion plants: Annual black-eyed Susans, tall cosmos, Mexican sunflower, tall dahlias, daylilies, and many more annuals and perennials.

Remarks:  Will reseed readily. Unwanted seedlings are easy to pull out. Although it is tall, can be used in the middle or even front of beds due to its open growth habit. Blooms appear to float in the breeze. Tolerates some frost.

Plant Focus: Heliotrope

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Jonathon Hofley / Michigan Gardener
‘Alba’by George Papadelis

Heliotrope continues to be one of the most sought after annual plants every spring. Some varieties have intoxicating, vanilla-scented flowers that are irresistible, while others have beautiful blue, white, or lavender flowers. Its potent fragrance earned it the common name “cherry pie,” however, I have never heard anyone suggest that the scent even remotely conjures hints of any kind of pie. Heliotrope “flowers” are actually clusters of 1/4-inch blooms that develop in masses to form 4- to 8-inch heads. Among gardeners, the purple-blue varieties are the most desirable for their flowers, which combine so well with shades of pink, silver, or gold.

The rich, velvety flowers have become more and more popular in container gardens. Even the gardeners of the Victorian period recognized its value in potted combinations. Now that the huge, trailing leaves of golden sweet potato vine have made it into the container plant spotlight, heliotrope has been revealed as one of its perfect partners. Deep green heliotrope leaves and rich blue flowers above the golden leaves of sweet potato vine—wow! Add a trailing pink verbena or ivy geranium and you have a truly vibrant display.

Heliotrope is also a wonderful plant for bedding. One of my fondest heliotrope memories is a stunning combination I saw at the beautiful Butchart gardens in British Columbia about 10 years ago. Heliotrope was alternated in a mass planting with the variegated leaf geranium ‘Mrs. Parker.’ The cream and green leaves of the geranium shined beautifully below the bright pink geranium blooms and deep blue heliotrope flowers; it was breathtaking! In this example, even heliotrope’s dark green leaves were used to contrast with other foliage.

Johnny’s Selected Seeds
‘Marine’The most popular heliotrope is a readily available, seed-grown variety called ‘Marine.’ It is only slightly fragrant but has the navy blue flowers for which heliotrope is so commonly praised. It grows 15 to 18 inches tall. Because it is seed grown, it is usually the easiest for growers to produce and therefore the most inexpensive heliotrope to buy.

A cutting-grown variety called ‘Atlantis’ is rapidly becoming more popular. The flowers are about the same as ‘Marine’ but the plant seems to be more resistant to stretching. This makes it more desirable in situations where crowding (and thus stretching) might occur.

EuroAmerican Propagators
‘Azure Skies’The variety ‘Nagano’ is arguably the most fragrant blue heliotrope. The flowers emit a baby-powder scent that is strongest in the evening. It has the more compact growth habit of ‘Atlantis’ but sports deep violet-blue flowers.

In my opinion, the most fragrant variety is the white cultivar called ‘Alba.’ I know very little about aromatherapy, but I can’t imagine life without experiencing nature’s most pleasant scents. To remove a flower and enjoy its fragrance for even a few minutes is well worth the space required to grow this plant. White heliotrope’s vanilla scent is rivaled by few flowers; jasmine and English roses come to mind. This is an attractive plant but it is rarely grown for its beauty alone.

One of the newest varieties is a unique trailing version called ‘Azure Skies.’ Oddly, this one has no fragrance and grows more horizontally rather than upright. Its lavender flowers can be used to trail over the edge of a pot or it may be used for bedding as a low spreading mound about 8 inches tall.

Jonathon Hofley / Michigan Gardener
‘Azure Skies’All heliotrope prefer full or partial sun and all thrive in well-drained soils. Plants grown too cold or too wet can develop root rots. That being said, don’t allow plants to dry out. They are occasionally attacked by aphids but insecticidal soap can solve that problem.

Heliotrope can offer beautiful flowers as well as incredible fragrance. Once you have decided how you are going to use it, all you have to do is choose the appropriate variety. If you have never planted heliotrope and you don’t intend to have it in your garden, hopefully you will encounter it some day and experience its remarkable fragrance.

George Papadelis is the owner of Telly’s Greenhouse in Troy, MI.


At a glance: Heliotrope

Botanical name: Heliotropium (hee-lee-oh-TRO-pee-um)
Plant type: Annual
Plant size: 14-18 inches tall and wide
Habit: Upright; ‘Azure Skies’ is a trailing variety, 8 inches tall
Flower color: Deep blue, violet, deep purple, white, lavender
Flower size: 1/4 inch on 4- to 8-inch clusters
Bloom period: Summer
Leaf color: Dark green
Leaf size: 3 inches long and 1-1/2 inches wide
Light: Full to partial sun
Soil: Well-drained soil
Uses: Containers, bedding plant, fragrance
Companion plants: Violet flowers easily compliment many other plants; yellow and chartreuse foliage (golden sweet potato vine, etc.); pink flowers (geraniums, etc.)
Remarks: Wonderful fragrance; ‘Alba’ has outstanding vanilla scent; valuable for its crisp, dark green leaves as well

Plant Focus: Coreopsis

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Sunny Border Nurseries
Coreopsis ‘Heaven’s Gate’ by George Papadelis

Many gardeners covet long-blooming perennials. Perennials that bloom for more than six weeks are particularly valuable in gardens with limited space. Fewer varieties can be used to provide the garden with color from early spring until late fall. Within a given genus of perennials such as Salvia, Veronica, or Geranium, there may be various varieties with a broad range of flowering periods. Similarly, tickseed or Coreopsis is a genus that contains some of the most popular long-blooming perennial varieties. All Coreopsis attract butterflies and are easy-to-grow plants derived from American native species.

The most popular species is Coreopsis verticillata or thread-leaf coreopsis. This species contains several varieties, all of which have fine, “thread-like” foliage. The variety “Moonbeam” was chosen by the Perennial Plant Association as the Perennial Plant of the Year in 1992. It grows 12 to 18 inches tall, 24 inches wide, and produces a myriad of pale yellow, daisy-like flowers. It begins blooming in early June and will continue to flower for about 10 to 12 weeks. Removing the spent flowers can further prolong flowering. This practice, however, is seldom considered worthwhile due to the profuse flowering of the typical ‘Moonbeam.’

Eric Hofley / Michigan Gardener
The pale yellow flowers of Coreopsis ‘Moonbeam’ echo the leaves of this variegated iris.The variety ‘Crème Brulee’ has much larger and brighter pale yellow flowers than ‘Moonbeam.’ It grows slightly taller at about 18 to 24 inches tall. It has a thread-leaf that is more coarse than ‘Moonbeam,’ so it can be more prone to floppiness. Plant ‘Moonbeam’ and ‘Crème Brulee’ with summer-blooming blue perennials such as veronica and salvia.

Two other thread-leaf coreopsis are relatively easy to find. ‘Golden Showers’ produces golden yellow flowers shaped like those of ‘Moonbeam,’ but is a much more upright grower. It grows about 24 inches tall and 18 inches wide. Flowering begins in June and persists well into fall. The variety ‘Zagreb’ is bushy and shorter, with bright yellow flowers on 12- to 18-inch plants.

Jonathon Hofley / Michigan Gardener
Coreopsis grandiflora ‘Sunray’ The shortest species is Coreopsis auriculata, growing only 6 to 10 inches tall. The variety ‘Nana’ is long-lived and begins to bloom earlier than other coreopsis. Flowering begins in May and continues until July. The single orange-yellow flowers develop over a low carpet of rounded leaves. This one is especially well-suited for use as edging or a rock garden plant.

The tallest species is Coreopsis grandiflora. These produce the largest flowers within the genus. They grow from 1 to 3 feet tall and are some of the longest-blooming perennials available. Flowering usually begins in June and continues until September, especially if spent flowers are removed. The drawback is that they are likely to bloom themselves to death; the Coreopsis grandiflora varieties (except for ‘Flying Saucers’) can put so much energy into fall flower and seed production that the weakened plant may not overwinter. The removal of flower stems and seed pods beginning in early September will encourage the development of a strong crown that is more capable of winter survival.

Jonathon Hofley / Michigan Gardener
Coreopsis ‘Limerock Ruby’ Several varieties of Coreopsis grandiflora exist but these are some of the most noteworthy. ‘Goldfink’ is the shortest Coreopsis grandiflora at only 8 to 10 inches tall. It produces several 1-1/2-inch, single gold flowers. ‘Baby Sun’ (aka ‘Sonnenkind’) is another short variety at 12 to 20 inches tall. It forms a mound of single golden-yellow flowers about 2 inches across. ‘Early Sunrise’ is a former All-America Selections winner and one of the few perennials to receive this distinction. It produces semi-double golden flowers on plants that are 18 to 24 inches tall. ‘Sunburst’ is the tallest Coreopsis grandiflora available at 30 to 36 inches tall. It has larger gold flowers on longer stems and is the best cultivar for cutting.

‘Sterntaler’ offers a unique 2-inch gold flower with a mahogany-brown circle around the center. It grows 16 to 18 inches tall. The variety ‘Tequila Sunrise’ is the only Coreopsis available with interesting green and cream variegated foliage. It produces single gold flowers over plants growing 16 to 18 inches tall. This relatively new cultivar has proven to be somewhat less hardy than others so take precautions such as improving drainage and providing additional winter protection.

Perhaps the most effortless and dependable Coreopsis grandiflora is “Flying Saucers.” This one has sterile flowers that cannot waste energy on seed production. That means it can spend more energy on flower production and gathering strength for overwintering. Golden yellow flowers are produced well into fall and deadheading is far less necessary. Its profuse flowering makes it suitable for use in containers too.

Pink varieties of coreopsis come from the species Coreopsis rosea. The best variety with all pink petals is Coreopsis rosea ‘American Dream.’ Ironically, this plant was the Perennial Plant of the Year in Europe several years ago. It yields several 1-inch, rose-pink daisies with a tiny yellow eye. It grows 8 to 16 inches tall and will bloom until fall if deadheaded. ‘Sweet Dreams’ has large, distinctly bi-colored flowers that combine soft pink petals with a large raspberry pink center. It can grow floppy in more fertile soil, but pruning away the top half will make plants more compact and bushy.

Heritage Perennials
Coreopsis grandiflora ‘Flying Saucers’ A while ago, an exciting new ruby-red coreopsis called ‘Limerock Ruby’ was introduced. Millions were sold all over the world and unfortunately, it became evident that ‘Limerock Ruby’ was not hardy in the colder zones (it is only hardy to about zone 7). Since then, ‘Limerock Ruby’ has tragically become almost impossible to find in most garden centers. It blooms all summer and produces hundreds of flowers. This color is very rare in the flower color palette; only a few plants such as chocolate cosmos and Scabiosa ‘Ace of Spades’ offer blossoms of a similar hue. This plant is certainly worth the effort to track down and perhaps an increase in consumer demand will keep this great annual from disappearing.

Since the demise of ‘Limerock Ruby,’ another selection at least partially fills the void: ‘Heaven’s Gate’ is the deepest pink coreopsis available. It is truly hardy to zone 5 and flowers all summer long.

Coreopsis offers a huge range of different flowers and foliage on plants that display exceptionally long bloom times. In large, English style borders that abound with daisies, lilies, gayfeather, bee balm, and daylilies, coreopsis is a wonderful addition. In smaller gardens, where only a few plants can get squeezed in, high performance perennials like coreopsis are a must.

George Papadelis is the owner of Telly’s Greenhouse in Troy, MI.

 

At a glance: Coreopsis

Botanical name: Coreopsis (kor-ee-OP-sis)

Common name: Tickseed

Plant type: Perennial

Plant size: 8-36 inches tall, 8-24 inches wide

Habit: Clumping

Hardiness: Zone 4 or 5

Flower color: Pale yellow, golden yellow, pink, deep pink

Flower size: 3/4 to 2-1/2 inches across

Bloom period: Summer to early fall

Light: Sun

Soil: Well-drained

Uses: Perennial border

Companion plants: Blue-flowering perennials like salvia and veronica; daisies, lilies, gayfeather, coneflowers and daylilies.

Remarks: Can be short-lived (a few years). Deadhead spent blooms to prevent seed production, which prolongs the life of the plant.

Plant Focus: Plectranthus

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Jonathon Hofley / Michigan Gardener
Plectranthus argentatusby George Papadelis

Gardeners continue to covet beautiful foliage in every aspect of their landscapes. More than ever, we are likely to look beyond the flowers and learn to appreciate the foliage; flowers come and go, but foliage endures. In perennial gardens, for example, fancy-leaved versions of old favorites are very popular. Trendy perennials like the Jacob’s ladder (Polemonium) ‘Stairway to Heaven,’ phlox ‘Becky Towe,’ and bugbane (Cimicifuga or Actaea) ‘Hillside Black Beauty’ are adorned with much more decorative foliage than their green-leaved relatives. Some popular annuals like coleus and sweet potato vine are used purely for their gorgeous leaves. Plectranthus is also grown primarily for its gorgeous leaves, like its relative coleus. This enormous genus is also blessed with fragrant leaves and a huge range of uses.

Most of the ornamental plectranthus have the unique ability to tolerate either sun or shade. The durable leaves rarely shed and will withstand strong winds. Plectranthus is also very drought tolerant and even quite tolerant of rough handling.

Jonathon Hofley / Michigan Gardener
Plectranthus fosteri ‘Marginatus’The genus is most easily divided into three distinct groups: 1) upright foliage, 2) trailing foliage, and 3) attractive flowers. Among the upright forms, we have the silver-leaved Plectranthus argentatus. Silver foliage is almost always desirable amongst other foliage and flowers. These prefer sun and produce large silver leaves with a felt-like texture and slightly serrated edges. They may grow up to two or three feet tall, making them ideal for larger plantings or containers. Pinching may be necessary to control height and encourage branching. I have seen Plectranthus argentatus used in the center of a large container in combination with the upright blue angelonia, pink trailing petunias, and white trailing Nierembergia—a beautiful and durable combination.

It should be noted that almost every plectranthus is grown from cuttings. That means you will typically pay a bit more for a single plant (compared to seed-produced plants). In 2005, however, there was a breakthrough in plectranthus. Some seed companies began offering a new Plectranthus argentatus grown from seed called ‘Silver Shield.’ It branches better than the one grown from cuttings and the height and spread are about 24 inches. Seed-grown plants are typically a bit more affordable since they are often available in flats.

Jonathon Hofley / Michigan Gardener
Plectranthus fosteri ‘Green on Green’The other upright forms are Plectranthus fosteri ‘Marginatus’ and Plectranthus fosteri ‘Green on Green.’ The former has green and white variegated foliage and the latter has green and gold variegated foliage. The leaves are similar to Plectranthus argentatus, but are sometimes much larger. The thick, scented leaves on upright stems weave beautifully amongst the flowers and leaves of other annuals or perennials. Both of these can be very quickly grown into standards: stake the stalk to the desired height, then repeatedly pinch to create a terminal poodle or globe shape. These prefer sun or part sun.

The trailing varieties will thrive in sun or shade. They can be used for bedding or simply used as a more interesting vinca vine replacement. For trailing silver leaves, try Plectranthus x ‘Silver Foil.’ Plectranthus madagascariensis ‘Variegatus’ has bright green and white variegated leaves that will trail down and continue to maintain a nice mounded habit. It is striking next to bright colors like petunias or with the white flowers of Bacopa.

Jonathon Hofley / Michigan Gardener
Plectranthus oertendahlii ‘Uvongo’One of the most interesting trailing forms is Plectranthus oertendahlii ‘Uvongo.’ It hugs the ground and produces beautiful silver and green patterned leaves. The best part is the showy purple-pink undersides that reveal themselves just enough to give ‘Uvongo’ delicate rose accents. In more sun, the stems turn purple and so does the new growth. Try this one in a container interplanted with euphorbia ‘Diamond Frost’ (tiny upright flowers) and the blue trailing flowers of lobelia ‘Big Blue.’

Another beautiful trailing plectranthus is ‘Troy’s Gold.’ This one is also quite short, only growing to about five inches tall. Leaves are brightly variegated green and gold with some deep purple veins. The stems and leaf undersides on ‘Troy’s Gold’ are also purple. Plant this one with any purple or gold flowers for optimum impact.

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Plectranthus ‘Zulu Wonder’The common Swedish ivy (Plectranthus australis) is another trailing plectranthus. Its glossy, dark green leaves can cascade as far down as 3 to 4 feet. Plants persist effortlessly in hanging baskets and can thrive in either sun or shade. Interiorscapers test this plant’s durability again and again in thousands of restaurants, offices, and mall plantings.

Among the flowering varieties, there are a few that are somewhat available. ‘Zulu Wonder’ has lavender-blue flowers, while ‘Lois Woodhull’ bears beautiful flower spikes of bluish-rose and white from summer until fall. It only grows about 10 to 12 inches tall and has thick, green leaves. For a unique, late-blooming annual, look for ‘Mona Lavender.’ Its stunning late summer display consists of large, lavender-flecked blossoms on contrasting dark stems. The leaves are a glossy dark green on top and burgundy underneath. It can exceed 18 inches in height when provided with ample space.

Consider trying the beautiful foliage or flowers of a plectranthus—they offer a delightful alternative to mainstream annual bedding plants.

George Papadelis is the owner of Telly’s Greenhouse in Troy, MI.


At a glance: Plectranthus

Common name: Swedish ivy

Plant type: Annual (tender perennial)

Habit: Upright and trailing varieties

Plant size: Upright varieties: up to 3 feet tall and wide; Trailing varieties: up to 12 inches tall

Leaf color: Silver, gray-green, green and white variegated, green and gold variegated, green

Leaf size: Rounded, 1 to 4 inches long and wide, depending on variety

Light: Sun to shade

Soil: Well-drained

 Uses: Upright varieties: large containers, annual and perennial borders; Trailing varieties: front of containers, hanging baskets, wall plantings

Companion plants: The many foliage colors compliment a wide array of annuals and perennials.

Remarks: Grown for its foliage, like coleus. Foliage weaves nicely amongst other plants. Upright forms can be easily trained into standards. Size of upright varieties can be controlled with pinching. Silver-leaved varieties prefer more sun.

Plant Focus: Fan Flower

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www.provenwinners.com
‘New Wonder’

by George Papadelis

I can remember a time when commercial growers of annuals had a relatively small list of plants from which to choose. We would order our seeds and then receive rooted cuttings of geraniums, vinca vines, fuchsias, and Rieger begonias. Then came New Guinea impatiens. These quickly became popular and gave us another major crop to produce. But several new annuals have come along that have completely changed the way we garden. Bacopa, verbena, calibrachoa, double flowering impatiens, wishbone flower (Torenia), dahlias, and petunias—all grown from cuttings—have exploded into the marketplace and continue to grow in popularity. Fan flower, or Scaevola, is another wonderful trailing or spreading plant with many uses for the modern landscape.

Scaevola is an enormous genus that contains plants native to Florida, Hawaii, Australia, and many other tropical environments. Some of these are invasive weeds, but the Australian species aemula is the ornamental blue-flowering plant from which most garden-worthy cultivars are derived. Scaevola gets its common name, fan flower, from the arrangement of its petals in a fan-shaped cluster. These form flowers that are arranged in bigger clusters 2 to 3 inches across. The flowers develop on trailing plants and last for several weeks.

www.provenwinners.com
‘Pink Fanfare’www.parkseed.com
‘Purple Fan’www.provenwinners.com
‘Whirlwind White’This long-lasting bloom time keeps deadheading to a minimum and makes fan flower a low maintenance plant. It is typically used in hanging baskets or as a trailing component in combination planters where it may grow 3 to 4 feet long. In addition, fan flower is also a wonderful spreading plant for beds. A single plant can spread to form a mound two or more feet across and about 8 to 12 inches tall.

One of the first fan flowers developed was ‘Blue Wonder.’ It is still very popular and has been joined by several similar blue cultivars like ‘New Wonder,’ ‘Whirlwind Blue,’ and ‘Blue Shamrock.’ These make excellent hanging basket plants by themselves or when combined with complimentary plants. Since each of these has blue petals with a yellow base, try combining them with yellow plants like bidens, Cape daisy (Osteospermum ‘Symphony Yellow’), marguerite daisy (Argyranthemum ‘Butterfly’), or Dahlberg daisy.

‘Zig Zag’ has big, beautiful flowers that are prominently bicolored violet and white. This cultivar blooms several weeks later than others. There are two popular white varieties, ‘White Charm’ and ‘Whirlwind White’ that are also great performers. ‘White Charm’ forms a more compact 12- by 12-inch mound while the latter can grow up to 24 inches wide. These also have yellow-based petals that look great with other yellow plants.

www.parkseed.com
‘Blue Wonder’‘Pink Fanfare’ is one of the few pink cultivars. Its flowers are actually more of a muted lavender color. Plant breeders are working on some new colors and a good yellow variety will likely be introduced.

New plants like fan flower are great additions to the annual palette. Take a bold approach and try some of the new plants that breeders have been working hard to produce. If you have yet to try a fan flower, you and your garden will be very pleased with its performance. Try one in a combination planter, or better yet, drop one into a flowerbed. Maybe you’ll show a fellow gardener how to use a new plant.

George Papadelis is the owner of Telly’s Greenhouse in Troy, MI.

 

At a glance: Fan Flower

Botanical name: Scaevola aemula (skay-VO-lah EYE-mew-lah)

Plant type: Annual

Plant size: 8 to 24 inches tall and wide, depending on the variety

Habit: Spreading, trailing

Flower color: Violet, purple, white, light pink

Flower size: 2- to 3-inch clusters

Bloom period: Summer

Light: Sun

Soil: Well-drained

Uses: Containers, hanging baskets

Companion plants: Yellow-flowered annuals such as Bidens, Cape daisy (Osteospermum ‘Symphony Yellow’), marguerite daisy (Argyranthemum ‘Butterfly’), or Dahlberg daisy.

Remarks: Also can be planted in the ground to form spreading mound. Fan flower is a tender perennial that is treated as an annual.

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