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PLEASE NOTE: In the autumn of 1995, we hatched the idea for a free, local gardening publication. The following spring, we published the first issue of Michigan Gardener magazine. Advertisers, readers, and distribution sites embraced our vision. Thus began an exciting journey of helping our local gardening community grow and prosper.
After 27 years, nearly 200 issues published, and millions of copies printed, we have decided it is time to end the publication of our Print Magazine and E-Newsletter.

Tree bark damage

September 15, 2009   •   

On a couple young trees in my yard, I noticed damage to their trunks, which are about 1 to 1-1/2 inches in diameter. In just a couple places on the trunks, it looks as if a knife started to slice into the bark and peel it back, like you would peel an apple. It’s not a string trimmer since these trees are in the middle of a perennial bed. My guess is that it is an animal that is sharpening its teeth. If it enjoyed the taste, wouldn’t it keep chewing? One tree is a Japanese maple (1 year old) and the other is a witch hazel (3 years old). How can I protect the young tree bark without harming the trees? Tree wrap seems futile since the animal would chew right through it?
Damage to trees often can heal over. Vertical tears are more likely to heal over than horizontal ones, such as string trimmer damage at the base of the tree. With a sharp knife, remove loose bark and create a smooth edge. Rough edges do not heal as quickly. Asphalt-based pruning tars should not be used as they make it more difficult for the tree to heal. Leaving the wound open is actually best. If you feel compelled to cover the wound, use a natural orange shellac. Plastic tree wraps can be used to protect trunks from animal damage. Deer and rabbit repellent, pepper sprays, and an array of other chemicals can be used as to discourage animal damage and feeding as well. As a last resort, fencing may be needed to discourage some animals.

Filed Under: Ask MG

Plant Focus: Turtlehead (Chelone)

September 11, 2009   •   

W. Atlee Burpee & Co. / 800-888-1447
Chelone lyonii ‘Hot Lips’
by George Papadelis

Garden centers fill their benches in the fall with thousands of mums. But what else is blooming? With a little effort, dozens of great perennials that bloom during early fall can be found. Chelone, or turtlehead, is a North American native perennial whose peak flowering period lasts about four weeks from August to September.

Chelone has the common name turtlehead because its individual florets resemble the head of a turtle. The individual flowers are about 1 inch long and are borne on short, pointed spikes that rest above glossy green foliage. Plants grow 2 to 3 feet tall and about 1-1/2 to 2 feet wide. Turtlehead prefers moist, rich soil and partial sun but can tolerate full sun if provided adequate moisture. It grows in and close to woodlands all over the eastern half of the U.S. and Canada. Like many native plants, it is well adapted to our climate and soils and is also more insect- and disease-resistant. Turtlehead will last for many years with little or no care at all. When plants grow beyond their allocated space, they can be easily divided in spring.

K. Van Bourgondien & Sons / 800-622-9997
Chelone obliqua
Three species of Chelone are readily available and each offers some traits that may be beneficial in your garden. Chelone glabra is often called white turtlehead (or swamp turtlehead) because its flowers are usually white tinged with a hint of pink. It blooms a bit earlier than the other two species, starting in late July and continuing through August. Of the three species, this one is the most sun-tolerant.

Chelone lyonii is the most popular turtlehead. It is usually pink, prefers partial sun and blooms about the same time as Chelone glabra. The variety ‘Hot Lips’ has rich pink flowers and reddish stems.

Chelone obliqua has flowers of the deepest pink that are sometimes even described as purple. It also comes in an all white form called Chelone obliqua ‘Alba.’ Chelone obliqua does offer one unique advantage over the other turtleheads: it is the latest blooming species. This one won’t start flowering until late August and continues for about four weeks into September. This later bloom time is especially valuable since the more popular summer bloomers like black-eyed Susan (Rudbeckia) and phlox are probably done.

So you might be thinking turtlehead would look great with some mums, right? Sure it would, but also consider some of the other late bloomers that would look beautiful next to the leaves and flowers of pink turtlehead. The blue or purple flowers of fall asters would make an excellent partner that grows from 1 to 3 feet tall. For a shorter blue bloomer, try the spreading plumbago (Ceratostigma plumbaginoides) whose electric-blue flowers are complimented by beautiful reddish-bronze fall foliage. The later-blooming monkshood (Aconitum napellus) has dark blue flowers on 4-foot spikes that resemble delphiniums from a distance. Check out other late bloomers like Joe pye weed (Eupatorium), hardy hibiscus, anemones, ornamental grasses, and fall-blooming crocus, to name a few. Keep in mind that turtlehead does produce a column of green leaves that is very visible when the plant is in bloom so you may want to soften it with a shorter flower or some complimentary beautiful leaves.

The cooler fall temperatures give us the perfect opportunity to spruce up our flower beds and begin planning for next year’s garden. Plants are less prone to transplant shock and will require less watering if cultivated in the fall. Plant some spring-blooming bulbs, think about trying some pansies, and don’t forget those mums. With these and the myriad of fall bloomers like turtlehead, all of us should have a spectacular September garden.

George Papadelis is the owner of Telly’s Greenhouse in Troy, MI.


At a glance: Turtlehead

Botanical name: Chelone (keh-LOW-nee)

Plant type: Perennial

Plant size: 2-3 feet tall; 1-1/2-2 feet wide

Habit: Upright

Hardiness: Zone 3 (zone 5 for Chelone obliqua)

Flower color: Pink, white

Flower size: 1-inch long

Bloom period: August-September

Leaf color: Green, dark green

Leaf size: 2-8 inches long

Light: Partial shade to full sun

Soil: Rich, moist soil

Uses: Areas in the garden that are continually moist or wet; bog garden; stream or pond bank

Companion plants: Asters, Joe pye weed, hardy hibiscus, anemones, ornamental grasses, plumbago

Remarks: Native plant. Provide adequate moisture if positioned in full sun.

Filed Under: Plant Focus

Plant Focus: Switch Grass

September 10, 2009   •   

Jonathon Hofley / Michigan Gardener
‘Rostrahlbusch’ switch grass in the summer.
by George Papadelis

Ornamental grasses are an enormous group of plants whose popularity has altered our perception of perennial gardening. Before ornamental grasses, perennial purists struggled to find plants that provided winter interest and yet died down to the ground like the rest of the garden. Some gardeners rebelled and began using smaller evergreen shrubs. Others found solace with upright sedums like Sedum ‘Autumn Joy.’ Now, we have ornamental grasses.

Besides providing winter interest, grasses have fall color, move beautifully in the wind, and most have flowers that last long into the winter. They are extremely diverse too. Some grow in sun, others in shade. They may be as little as 1 inch tall or towering to 20 feet. It is more and more difficult to find an American garden without an ornamental grass.

Jonathon Hofley / Michigan Gardener
‘Heavy Metal’
One of the most valuable ornamental grasses is switch grass (Panicum virgatum). This North American native has many of the attributes that make ornamental grasses popular. All
switch grasses are clumpers. In other words, none of them are runners, which can quickly outgrow their allotted space and become a nuisance. Clumps of switch grass expand so slowly that they may not require dividing for 10 years or longer. When your clump eventually does grow too wide for your garden, you’ll need to dig up the entire crown to divide it. I have often equated dividing ornamental grasses to dividing the trunk of a tree. It’s easier with a chain saw, but an axe or hacksaw will do the trick. Basketball-size clumps will make great specimens within a year. The only maintenance your switch grass will require is a trim to about 6 inches in late March or early April. This allows the new growth to begin unencumbered by last year’s old growth.

All switch grasses have gray-green to blue-green leaves that turn gold to orange-red in fall and then fade to a wintertime shade of tan. The fall flowers emerge pinkish, reddish, or silvery and mature to a grayish white or brown. They will tolerate almost any kind of soil from wet to dry and from sand to clay. They prefer full sun but will tolerate light shade. Height can range from 3 feet to as tall as 7 feet. Needless to say, switch grasses are very versatile plants.

My favorite switch grass is ‘Heavy Metal.’ I first saw this plant from a tour bus at Longwood Gardens in 1992. I could not believe how stiff and upright this tight clump grew. It has metallic gray-blue leaves on a 3- to 4-foot tall plant. The purple flower sprays that emerge in late summer are followed by its bright yellow fall color. It’s spectacular. This one looks great in rows to form a short hedge or alone among perennials in any border.

Jonathon Hofley / Michigan Gardener
‘Dallas Blues’
The largest switch grass you will find is ‘Cloud Nine.’ It can grow from 5 to 7 feet tall and has a more vase-shaped habit. Its light blue leaves hold up great in strong winds. It produces yellowish flowers in late fall that blush to tan for a winter show. The larger size of this switch grass makes it ideal as a visual barrier or background plant.

Panicum ‘Prairie Skies’ is a more upright grower like ‘Heavy Metal,’ only larger, to 5 or 6 feet tall. This exceptional, strong grower will usually produce substantial plants faster than other varieties. The powdery-blue foliage yields soft blue-gray flowers in fall.

‘Shenandoah’ is a shorter variety, only growing to 3 feet tall. Its other distinction is its deep red leaf color that starts in June and intensifies as the season progresses. In late summer, red flowers emerge that mimic the red leaf color. 

‘Dallas Blues’ bears very wide leaf blades of powdery blue. These unusual leaves grow on a 6-foot tall plant that develops 2-foot long, football-shaped flower heads of purple-blue that turn to a rich orange-tan by fall. The huge flowers are the most wind responsive of any of the switch grasses; the slightest breeze will send your garden into a long mesmerizing dance.

If you are using your switch grass in a perennial border, there are many late-blooming perennials that make fine companions. The showy stonecrop sedums (Sedum spectabile) include several varieties like ‘Autumn Fire,’ ‘Neon,’ and ‘Pink Chablis.’ These offer some interesting flowers as well as foliage for the autumn garden. Russian sage (Perovskia) offers lavender flowers above silvery foliage that grows 3 to 4 feet tall. Fall-blooming asters and boltonia are available in several colors and provide masses of late season flowers. 

Hines Horticulture
‘Shenandoah’
Fall is a wonderful season to garden. Plants can be transplanted or divided with less stress and with less water. This is a perfect time to reevaluate your gardens and determine what changes should be made. Also, imagine your garden at wintertime to see if your landscape lacks winter interest.

Switch grass is a versatile plant that provides year-round interest with minimal care. With the companions mentioned above, ornamental grasses can be used to ensure a stunning display that lasts well into winter. Get to know this valuable group of plants; every American garden should have some.

George Papadelis is the owner of Telly’s Greenhouse in Troy, MI.


At a glance: Switch grass

Botanical name: Panicum virgatum (PA-ni-kum vir-GAH-tum)

Plant type: Perennial ornamental grass

Plant size: 3-7 feet tall

Habit: Upright or vase-shaped

Hardiness: Zone 5

Flower color: Soft purple, yellowish, gray-blue, pinkish red

Flowers: Airy clusters

Bloom period: Fall

Leaf color: Various shades of blue-green or gray-green

Light: Full sun to light shade; flowering and fall color are best in full sun

Soil: Tolerant of most types; from dry to wet, sandy to clay

Uses: Perennial bed, mixed border, hedge, specimen plant

Companion plants: Tall sedums, Russian sage, boltonia,  asters, mums

Remarks: Great year-round interest; fantastic fall color, from yellows to orange-reds, changing to tan in winter; easy to grow

Filed Under: Plant Focus

Amending clay soil

September 3, 2009   •   

I have some heavy clay soil where I would like to plant perennials. How should I amend it?

Clay soil can be the downfall of even the most persistent gardener. Chipping away at the ground for a half an hour per plant is enough to convince even the most headstrong gardeners to lay a brick patio where they really wanted a beautiful bed of flowers! There are two approaches to this soil amendment chore. First, for the new garden bed: Rototill the area to a depth of 12 inches. Mix in an appropriate amount of sphagnum peat moss and top soil (the quantity depends on the size of the bed). Doing this will provide excellent drainage for your new perennials and it will make the appearance of the ground much more attractive. Best of all, you won’t need to use a jackhammer every time you want to plant a Shasta daisy!

Second, for the existing bed: Dig a hole as deep as the pot your plant is in and twice as wide. Break up the soil that has been removed from the hole so that it is as loose and crumbly as possible. Prepare a backfill mix of one part sphagnum peat moss to three parts of the existing soil. Thoroughly mix the peat and soil together and begin filling the hole around the root ball, packing lightly as you go. This method will increase your success rate when planting perennials, trees, or shrubs. Of course, you still need to initially chisel away to remove the clay soil for the planting hole, but once the soil is amended, your plant should thrive.

 

Filed Under: Ask MG

Selecting groundcover for poor soil

September 1, 2009   •   

I have an eyesore that needs some help. There is a weedy, lumpy, ugly slope behind my property that is difficult to mow. I want to rototill it smooth and plant some kind of attractive groundcover. It should be able to take full sun, clay soil, a certain amount of foot-traffic, not be invasive, and not need any mowing. Can you help me find this miracle plant?

Fortunately, there are several plant choices for your situation that will stay under 2 feet tall and provide a good, ground-covering effect. The only criteria that will be difficult to satisfy is that of foot traffic, which can be solved by leaving a bit of extra space between plants along the primary paths. Once the area has been planted and covered with a 3 inch layer of shredded bark mulch, which holds the best on slopes, these foot paths will become nicely edged with the trailing tips of the plants. Even if an occasional foot lands on this growth, little, if any, damage will occur to the plant.

Here are lists of some plants that will work the best. For quicker coverage, plant on 4 foot centers, or you may choose slower, more economical coverage at 6 foot centers. In both cases, regular watering and proper fertilization will produce faster coverage. Evergreen: Siberian Cypress; Blue Chip Juniper; Blue Carpet Juniper; Calgary Carpet Juniper; Grey Owl Juniper; Sargent Green Juniper; Creeping Norway Spruce; Wardii Yew. Deciduous: Green Mound Currant; Gold Tide Forsythia; Longacre Potentilla; Magic Carpet Spirea; Gro-Low Sumac; Cutleaf Stephanandra.

 

 

Filed Under: Ask MG

Propagating grapes

August 30, 2009   •   

I grew up in Brooklyn, NY where my parents had prolific white and black concord grape vines. Over the years, I have tried to propagate these grapes without success. I have taken the seed, cuttings, soil, etc. and yet all of my efforts have failed. It appears now that after more than 55 years, at the age of 89, my mother will finally have to sell the Brooklyn house. Before she does, I would dearly like to be able to grow these grapes here. Could you please tell me what I have done wrong in the past, what I need to do now, and where I can find more information on growing these grapes.  

Without knowing the propagation techniques used in the past, it is difficult to determine why the processes failed. Fortunately, grapes can be propagated from winter-dormant, hardwood cuttings as well as summer leafy cuttings kept under mist. These and other detailed propagation techniques can be learned from many garden and horticultural books, which are often found at garden centers, bookstores and libraries. Also keep in mind that Brooklyn has a much milder climate than we have here locally, so take great care in locating the plants in a well-protected area once you have been successful.

 

Filed Under: Ask MG

Overwintering Agapanthus

August 28, 2009   •   

I have an Agapanthus in a pot in my garden. How can I winter it over in the house? What can I expect of it when it is in the house? Since my garage is free standing and unheated, it is cold in the winter, so it is not a good option. Help!

There is no difficulty in growing this plant as long as you can move it to a frost-free room in winter, keeping the temperature no colder than 40 degrees and no warmer than 60 degrees. There, it will need very little water until spring, when it should then be brought back to a well-lit spot and started into growth by watering and feeding. Do not repot frequently as this plant blooms best when it is pot-bound.

 

Filed Under: Ask MG

Weak looking heliotrope

August 21, 2009   •   

I planted Heliotrope in mid-June in an area that is dappled shade in the morning and full sun in the afternoon (approximately 4 hours). Even though they are only about 12 inches tall, many of the plants are flopping over and the stems seem really weak. Overall, the plants look relatively healthy, although a few have browned edges. What is causing this floppiness?

Generally, heliotrope enjoys at least 5 to 6 hours of sunlight per day. Try cutting your heliotrope back about 6 inches to promote lower, sturdier growth. You will delay flowering for 2 weeks, but the plants will benefit greatly.

Filed Under: Ask MG

Culinary herbs: How to preserve the harvest

August 20, 2009   •   

Fresh herb bunches are wrapped with rubber bands and dried on a homemade hanger.

by Jean and Roxanne Riggs

While many gardens are grown just for their beauty, the herb garden’s primary purpose is to be harvested for use during the winter months when the garden is not available. For the herb gardener, preserving the harvest is an important part of the gardening season. And it really is something that we need to learn to do correctly so that all of the work that comes before the harvest is not wasted. If you plan to use fresh herbs from the garden during the growing season, you can clip them whenever you need them. However, if you cut the plant down to its roots, it will likely not continue to grow and you will have to nurture a new plant.

Herbs are just like other garden plants in that there are annuals, biennials, hardy perennials, and tender perennials. Each of these is harvested differently.

It is easy to harvest herbs: You need sharp scissors, rubber bands, herbs and a sunny, dry afternoon.

Annual culinary herbs

Annuals, like basil, dill weed, and savory, are plants that grow for just one season and are used for their leaves. They should be harvested before they go into flower. Once they flower and set seed, the leaves start to deteriorate and much of their flavor is lost. Most of the annual plants can be harvested more than once if only a third of the plant is cut at one time. If the first harvesting is done in July, a second harvest is still possible before the frosts kill the plants.

Annuals that are grown for their seeds, like coriander, dill, and anise, must be harvested as soon as the seeds are ripe and no longer green, or they will seed themselves everywhere for next year.

Annuals have a limited life span, so if you want to have fresh herbs on your windowsill for the winter months, you should start with new baby plants in September instead of trying to bring the old plants indoors.

Biennial and perennial culinary herbs

Biennials (plants that last two years) such as parsley and chervil, have sweeter and more tender leaves the first year. In the second year, the plant’s energy goes into producing flowers and seeds instead of new leaves, and the older weathered leaves have a more intense flavor that is rather bitter.

Hardy perennials are more tender, sweeter, and less bothered by bugs if they are harvested early in the summer, like late June or early July. They should not be cut very much at all after Labor Day, just leaves and tips, so that they have a chance to harden up for the winter weather ahead. Cutting promotes new growth that will not winter well. Shrubby herbs such as sage, winter savory, lavender and thyme, do not do well when pruned severely, and need energy in the stems to come back in the spring.

If you plan to bring tender perennials indoors for the winter, such as bay trees, pineapple sage, lemon verbena, and scented geraniums, you will probably cut some of the branches back to make the plant a more manageable size in the house. These clippings can be dried for use. Otherwise, clip as you need them for your favorite recipes and you will have fresh herbs all year round.

Hang your herbs upside-down (for straight stems) and out of the sun in a dry location for 2 to 3 weeks until crispy dry. Label them when you harvest.

Drying and storing herbs

In order to dry the herbs for storage, fasten the not-too-large bunches with rubber bands that will contract as the stems dry and shrink in size, and hang them in a dark, airy place until they are crisp and completely dry. Then the leaves can be removed from the stem and stored in jars. Be sure to label the bunches.

If you are drying a small amount of leafy material, you can place it on a paper towel on a cookie sheet on top of the refrigerator, where warm air flows over the top when the motor runs. Turn them regularly, and when they are fully crisp and dry, you can put them in jars for the winter. If you put them in the jars before they are completely dry, they will mold. Washing the herbs before drying is not usually necessary, but if you must rinse them, do it gently so that the flavorful oils don’t get left in the water. You must wait until the water has dried before you can bunch them or they will get moldy before they get dry enough to keep for the winter.

Some herbs, like chives, are better kept in the freezer. Just lay the fresh leaves on a piece of foil, fold and label the foil and put it in the freezer. When you need chives you can simply snip off the amount you need, refold the foil, and put it back into the freezer.

We do not recommend drying herbs with heat; that is, in the oven at a low temperature, in the microwave for a couple of minutes, or in a dehydrator. Your house smells wonderful when you use these methods, but heating the herbs means many of the essential oils are evaporating and therefore will not be available when you want to cook with them.

The flowers of herbs can also be dried

A few recipe ideas

Basil turns black if you freeze it, but you can turn it into pesto that freezes just fine. This is an easy-to-do pesto for your freezer and a favorite at our farm:

Put into your blender or food processor:

  • 1 generous cup olive oil
  • 1 handful basil leaves & tender tops
  • 1 clove of garlic
  • 1/4 cup grated parmesan cheese
  • 3 or 4 tbsp. lemon juice

Process until fully blended. Pour into a freezer container, label, and place in the freezer for use this winter. If you want to add pine nuts to the recipe, do it when you thaw the pesto.

When your harvest is fully dry and ready to store, here is one of our favorite recipes for Herbs de Provence:

  • 2 tbsp. savory
  • 2 tbsp. thyme
  • 2 tbsp. lavender flowers
  • 1 tbsp. rosemary
  • 1 tbsp. sage
  • 1 tsp. fennel leaf

Keep the herbs as whole as possible until you are ready to use them. This will help to preserve the flavors. Mix them up and put them into a jar or plastic tub with a tight-fitting lid. We like the newer, small plastic tubs because it is so easy to get at the contents when you want to use them.

A good salt substitute can be made with 2 tbsp. basil, 1 tbsp. thyme, 1 tbsp. marjoram, 2 tsp. lovage, 2 tsp. sage, and 2 tsp. savory.

When it comes to culinary herbs, you should enjoy, enjoy, enjoy. That’s why drying and preserving them correctly is so important!

Jean and Roxanne Riggs operated Sunshine Farm and Garden in Oakland County, MI.

Filed Under: Thyme for Herbs

Ask MG: Trimming perennial foliage

August 18, 2009   •   

As bulbs finish blooming, I know that you are supposed to leave the dying foliage and not cut it off. What about perennials? Some spring and early summer-blooming perennials start to look tired by mid-summer; can you shear off their scraggly foliage?

Yes, you can trim back perennials, but don’t trim those that can give you winter interest in your landscape. Many perennials can be trimmed or deadheaded and will rebloom, while others die back naturally, like poppies and bleeding hearts. Leave the pruners in your pocket and enjoy Sedum, Rudbeckia, coneflowers, Astilbe, and ornamental grasses all winter long. In the winter months, the grasses will add texture and sound to the landscape and the others mentioned have lovely flower heads. If you must prune them, bring them indoors and make lovely arrangements for your home.

Filed Under: Ask MG

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