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PLEASE NOTE: In the autumn of 1995, we hatched the idea for a free, local gardening publication. The following spring, we published the first issue of Michigan Gardener magazine. Advertisers, readers, and distribution sites embraced our vision. Thus began an exciting journey of helping our local gardening community grow and prosper.
After 27 years, nearly 200 issues published, and millions of copies printed, we have decided it is time to end the publication of our Print Magazine and E-Newsletter.

Stunted tomatoes

March 29, 2009   •   

My tomatoes were stunted last year. How can I prevent it this year and ensure a good crop?

Tomatoes can be stunted for a number of reasons: 1) Planting when it is still too cold can stunt growth. 2) Root bound pots should have their roots cut or torn apart before they are planted so they can root out properly. 3) Nutrient deficiency–add compost and/or Canadian peat with a general purpose vegetable fertilizer. 4) Poor light–plants need six hours of sunshine and a good amount of water. Any of the above factors or a combination of them can cause stunting in new tomato plants.

Filed Under: Ask MG

Making tulips and lillies re-bloom

March 29, 2009   •   

I have Lilies and Tulips left over from Easter – what can I do to make sure they bloom again next year?

Leave the lillies and tulips in the house until the weather warms. Plant them outside, remove the flower heads and allow leaves and stem to yellow, then remove. Fertilize with bonemeal or Holland Bulb Booster. Most tulip varieties are not considered dependable perennials in Michigan. The chances of your tulips returning successfully for several years depends on whether or not sufficient food reserves can be returned to the bulb. This can be accomplished by cutting off the flowers as the petals drop (do not allow them to go to seed), fertilizng as soon as they finish flowering, and most importantly, leaving the foliage intact as long as possible. That will allow the bulbs to develop to their full potential, next year.

Filed Under: Ask MG

Determining soil drainage conditions

March 16, 2009   •   

Most plant tags say that the plant requires “well-drained soil” or  “excellent drainage.”  What exactly does that mean?  How do I know if my soil is well-drained?

Plants that require well-drained soil are sensitive to prolonged periods of saturation since oxygen has been displaced from the soil pores. Only a few plants like willows and red-twig dogwood can tolerate this condition, while most others require much better drainage. To determine whether a soil is well-drained, first ask the question, “Do I ever see standing water in that spot?” If the answer is yes, then you’ll not want to consider this area well-drained. If no standing water occurs, dig a test hole about 12 inches deep and 16 inches across. Fill the hole with water and watch how long it takes to drain out. If the hole completely drains within a few hours then consider yours a well-drained soil. Keep in mind that these conditions can vary greatly from place to place within your yard, especially near low areas or where soil compaction may once have taken place. If you wish to plant in areas that do not drain as well, keep in mind that a very wide or elevated planting hole may be the key to establishing a plant in that situation.

Filed Under: Ask MG

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