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PLEASE NOTE: In the autumn of 1995, we hatched the idea for a free, local gardening publication. The following spring, we published the first issue of Michigan Gardener magazine. Advertisers, readers, and distribution sites embraced our vision. Thus began an exciting journey of helping our local gardening community grow and prosper.
After 27 years, nearly 200 issues published, and millions of copies printed, we have decided it is time to end the publication of our Print Magazine and E-Newsletter.

Website Extra: Janet’s Journal

November 1, 2010   •   Leave a Comment

Neat points for good health

One gardener discovers that a favorite low-mess tree in his yard is a type that has a reputation as a slob. Another plants a tree touted for neatness and finds it to be an unqualified mess. What gives?

In both cases, the “right plant, right place” axiom is probably involved. Put a plant into a site where it can grow with gusto and it may be healthy enough to rise above its bad rep. Condemn even the neatest species or variety to a site where it does not receive the amount of light it needs, gets too much or too little water, has insufficient root space, or is saddled with other handicaps, and you may indeed find yourself with a mess on your hands.

Steven Nikkila
Poplars and cottonwoods (species and hybrids in the genus Populus) grow fast, rustle cheerily in a breeze and tolerate tough conditions such as alternately wet and dry soil. Alas, they make the messy tree list on account of their seeds—which can coat the landscape with “snow” in a fruitful year—plus their tendency to shed twigs and branches that snap where weakened by fungal cankers (arrow) and boring insects. Hybrid poplars are slowly changing that reputation. Varieties are available that are seedless and resistant to the tree’s worst pests. Look for varieties that are described as sterile and pest resistant, such as ‘Noreaster,’ ‘Manitou,’ ‘Siouxland,’ and ‘Prairie Sky.’

Is seedlessness worth it? The nose may know!

Some trees that do not produce fruit or seeds are naturally sterile clones. The barrier to fruit formation may be genetic. Alternately, it may be the result of flowerlessness (golden thornless honeylocust is an example) or the inability of pollinators to work the flowers (double-flowered ornamental cherries such as ‘Kwanzan’). It’s a good idea to check the facts before you decide a sterile clone is right for you. You wouldn’t want to count on a plant for its flower color only to realize years after planting that it’s sterile by virtue of flowerlessness.

Other seedless plants are varieties from “dioecious” species—those that have separate male and female plants. In the species Ginkgo biloba, for instance, some individuals bear only flowers with fruit-producing parts. We call these females. Other individuals produce only pollen-bearing flowers. Ginkgo ‘Windover Gold’ is one of these “male” ginkgos. Ash (Fraxinus), cottonwood (Populus), box elder (Acer negundo), cork tree (Phellodendron), and mulberry (Morus) are other dioecious species found in the landscape.

If a tree you plant is sterile because it is a male plant, it is certain to up the pollen count in your area. All of the trees listed above are also wind-pollinated, meaning the pollen they produce is lightweight and airborne, rather than heavy and sticky for transport by insects. Wind-borne pollen is a potential allergen. The planting of large numbers of male trees has been cited as a factor in the increased pollen count in some cities.

Steven Nikkila
A ginkgo tree has lots of neat tendencies, including tiny, blow-away flower parts, strong wood resistant to breakage, pest resistance that makes it unlikely to lose twigs or foliage mid-season, and leaves that fall all together over a few days in autumn so it’s practical to rake up after such a tree in just one outing. Yet we can’t put the tree into the “neat” category unless we qualify it as male ginkgo. Female ginkgo trees begin to bear at 15 to 20 years and then every fall may produce prolific crops of apricot-sized fruits (pictured) that smell like dog excrement.

Evergreens aren’t

Steven Nikkila
Evergreens do lose old foliage. Some species lose old needles dramatically, all at once over a few weeks each fall. When a person suddenly notices their pine shedding, it can be alarming—but it’s natural and the once-a-year clean-up may be better for some gardeners than continual sweeping under a spruce, juniper, or yew.
Evergreen species do shed leaves and needles. We consider pine, spruce, yew, juniper, rhododendron, boxwood, and others to be evergreen because they rarely shed all their foliage at once.

Some evergreens shed their oldest foliage once a year—arborvitae and pine are notable examples. Those who suddenly take notice of the fall needle drop may even be alarmed. Others such as spruce, yew, and boxwood shed continually. If you are looking for an evergreen that will overhang a walkway you wish to be clear of debris, it may be better to select a species that sheds once a year, for limited clean up.


Filed Under: Website Extras

Sunny sunflowers bring happiness

October 14, 2010   •   17 Comments

Bob Koenders shares pointers on how to best grow this popular flower

 

Photos by Sandie Parrott
Bob Koenders demonstrates how to cut sunflowers: strip the lower leaves and cut diagonally with a sharp, clean boxcutter, and place immediately in water with preservative.
by Sandie Parrott

When picturing sunflowers, what do you see? Bob Koenders, owner of the Backyard Bouquet Farm, sees a field of amazing sunflowers, maybe not all yellow, with their heads held high following the path of the sun. “There is nothing better than a field of sunflowers at sunrise,” claims Koenders. He calls them the flower of the future. Statistics support this claim. According to the Michigan Department of Agriculture, in 1997 there were 32 farms growing sunflowers on 1,522 acres, and by 2002 there were 91 farms with 2,275 acres. Most of the fields of open sunflowers are oil seed type, grown for oil or seed (for birds or humans). Their heads were bred to hang down, making it more difficult for birds to eat the seeds and rain to ruin the harvest. On the other hand, Koenders grows his for cutting, so he wants them upright. Looking at Koenders’ field, you won’t see acres of blooming sunflowers, because he has to cut them before they open.

Why sunflowers

Koenders started experimenting with sunflowers (Helianthus annuus) about 20 years ago. He chose sunflowers as his number one summer crop (the spring is alliums and fall is pumpkins) for several reasons. “Sunflowers make people happy—they epitomize happiness and have a universal appeal to all ages,” states Koenders. He also started seeing more sunflower patterns in linens and clothing, and believed this was more than just a trend. Finally, when pollenless sunflowers came along, “I knew sunflowers were here to stay,” says Koenders. “Traditional sunflowers with pollen make a mess and ruin your clothes. Some people have problems with allergies to the pollen. The new pollenless sunflowers are clean—no allergies and they last much longer.”

When Koenders married the love of his life, Judy, they used lots of happy sunflowers for their wedding. In fact, sunflowers and even sunflower bouquets for the bride are becoming more popular for weddings according to Koenders. Florists in the area didn’t even know they wanted sunflowers when Koenders started experimenting with varieties. “I grew about 50 different varieties until I found about 5 that I grow every year.” They are all the pollenless varieties. “Now the demand is so high, the florists are calling me!” he exclaims.

At dusk, a field of sunflowers begin to turn their heads toward the setting sun. Notice the hilled rows of soil that help support the heavy plants.A little bit of history

According to the National Sunflower Association, the wild sunflower is native to North America, but commercialization of the plant was done by Russia. It was only somewhat recently that the sunflower plant “returned” to America. Native Americans first developed the wild sunflower into a single-headed plant with a variety of seed colors including black, red, white, and striped black and white. Some archeologists suggest that sunflowers may have been domesticated before corn. The Native Americans used the sunflower seed for grinding into flour, trail snacks, purple dyes, body painting, ceremonial, and medicinal uses. Sunflower oil was used for making bread, as well as on skin and hair. The dried stalks were even used for building materials. 

The large Russian varieties are still available today. Names like ‘Mammoth Russian,’ ‘Russian Giant,’ ‘Tall Russian,’ and ‘Mammoth’ are all typical varieties sold as giant sunflowers, along with all the new American, European and Asian hybrids. Koenders says identifying sunflowers can be a problem—there are always several names for essentially the same plant. He advises purchasing seed from reputable sources if you want a plant that grows true to the variety.

This unopened bud of ‘Sunrich Gold’ is still too early to cut but still beautiful and pollenless like most of Koenders’ sunflowers.Cutting sunflowers

Giant sunflowers wouldn’t work well as cut flowers, according to Koenders. They would be difficult to sell, handle (you practically need a chain saw to cut them) and use in a vase (the stalks are too thick and long). Koenders’ goals for the ideal cut sunflower: no pollen, 1/2-inch thick stem of about 3 feet in length, straight with a perfect flower head (held high) about 3 to 5 inches across. A “perfect” flower means no disfiguration, consistent color, and no diseases or pests.

During cutting, most of the leaves are stripped in one quick motion, leaving only the large ones by the head, and then a sharp box cutter is used to swiftly and cleanly cut the stem at an angle by the plant’s base. Cut flowers go directly into a solution of preservative and bleach until he delivers them, usually within 24 hours. Koenders and his hardy workers cut 7 days a week, 1,000 to 1,500 stems a day, which is just under 100,000 flowers annually.

This ‘Sunrich Gold’ sunflower is open too far to be cut for the floral industry. It will be sold directly at a farmers’ market or roadside stand.Growing sunflowers for cutting

The process begins with purchasing F1 (first generation) pollenless seed of proven varieties from quality sources. “It is more costly, but the plants are far superior. Saving seed means genetic variance, which can be good or bad,” Koenders comments. “Reusing seed means colors and sizes vary from plant to plant and stems can be weak, since it is open-pollinated (uncontrolled pollination by wind, insects, or birds). For homeowners, give it a try—it is fun to see what you get, but I can’t afford the risk.”

The other big component is good soil, and his farm has wonderful lake bed loam. Koenders monitors his soil, testing it every one to three years, depending on diseases or pests during that time, not just because he is an agronomist, but to check the levels of nitrogen and other nutrients. “Nitrogen is important for sunflowers. Nitrogen leaches out, but too much makes them leggy with large leaves.”

Seeds are started April 1 in the greenhouse. Sunflowers germinate in cool temperatures (45 to 50 degrees), and starting in early May seedlings are planted in the field. Seeds are started and plants are moved to the field every 7 to 10 days for about 10 successive plantings. “We can’t have them all in bloom at once, since we can’t harvest and sell all at once,” says Koenders. A tip he shares is to mound up the soil around the base of the plant to help support the stem. He continues to mound the soil while they are growing to help support the plant and to bury weeds. The mounded earth can get as high as a foot by the time the flowers are cut. He cautions, however, to not cover any leaves. 

Plants are set close together (6 to 12 inches) for support and to keep the plant size manageable, but he recommends up to two feet in a backyard situation for larger flowers. Rows are about 3 feet apart for cultivation. Pruning is important for florist quality blooms. Koenders prunes excessively to produce the type of perfect flower you expect to see at the florist.

“Sunflowers have a bad reputation with some people. Although they are pretty, many people think they don’t last, heads droop, and the stems are too thick,” Koenders laments. “This is because some sunflowers are dry-shipped from long distances like South America with their foliage stripped off.” According to Koenders, local pollenless sunflowers should have thinner stems and heads held high, and last 7 to 10 days in a vase (out of direct sunlight).

So the next time you want to brighten one of your late summer or fall days, pick up some cut sunflowers. You now know what qualities to be looking for.

Sandie Parrott is a garden writer and photographer who lives and gardens in Oakland County, MI.

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Fun facts about sunflowers

  • Sunflower’s scientific name is Helianthus; Helios meaning “sun” and anthos meaning “flower.”
  • Sunflower heads track the sun’s movement; this phenomenon is called heliotropism.
  • Sunflowers can grow up to 12 inches a day during the peak of the growing season. They are more photosynthetic than many other plants and better utilize the sun for growth.
  • Sunflowers (certain varieties) yield up to 40 percent of their weight in oil.
  • Sunflower stems were used as filling for life jackets.
  • Sunflowers are considered a popular art form because of their “human-like” characteristics, such as the “head” and the similar height to humans. 
  • Sunflower leaves are cupped to channel the water down the stem.
  • Sunflowers were worshipped by the Aztecs.
  • Sunflower heads consist of 1,000 to 2,000 individual flowers joined by a receptacle base. The large petals around the edge of the sunflower head are individual ray flowers which do not develop into seed.
  • The world record tallest sunflower (25 feet, 5-1/2 inches) was grown in the Netherlands in 1986.
  • The world record sunflower with the largest head (32-1/4 inches in diameter) was grown in Canada in 1983.
  • The world record sunflower with the most heads (837) was grown in Michigan in 2001.

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How to grow sunflowers – Tips from Bob Koenders


Light – All day sun.

Soil type – Not particular about type, but must have good drainage. Ideal pH range is 6.5 to 7.5.

Moisture – Water to start seeds and seedlings; water older plants during dry spells; they are drought tolerant, but will wilt when they need water.

Seed depth – Approximately 1/4 to 1 inch deep; very easy to germinate and grow.

Soil temperature for germination – 45 to 50 degrees.

Sowing – Sow seeds in successive plantings for cut flowers throughout the summer and fall.

Spacing – 6-12 inches for smaller varieties and up to 24 inches for larger varieties; allow at least 3 feet between rows for cultivation and air circulation.

Staking – May be required, unless grown closer together or up against a fence. Mound soil around base to support plant.

Fertilizing – Watch the salts. Sunflowers are very salt sensitive.

Pinching – Useful for forcing side shoots or pushing all the energy into one head.

Cutting – Plants should be cut when the bud is just beginning to open and is showing a little of the petal color. Strip off most of the lower leaves but leave larger ones by the head. Cut at an angle with a sharp and clean tool. Put in water with preservative immediately.

Height – Ranges from dwarf plants of 1-2 feet to giants of 15 feet or more.

Colors – Available colors range from white and cream, to all shades of yellow through to orange, red and burgundy. Centers can be yellow, green, brown, black, and black and white.

Recommended varieties – Gold-orange: ‘Soraya,’ ‘Sunrich,’ ‘Pro-Cut’ and ‘Sonja.’ Burgundy: ‘Moulin Rouge’ and ‘Prado Red.’

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Filed Under: Profile

Selecting trees & shrubs for a cottage garden

October 10, 2010   •   

We are looking for a slightly unkempt or cottage garden look at our home, yet need it to be low maintenance. There is sufficient room to tier large plants; we would like evergreens stepped down to flowering deciduous shrubs with trees interspersed. We would love a white birch, but don’t want to use all the chemicals we’ve had to with past birches. Any ideas for a substitute, or are there hardier, less insect-prone white birches?

We already plan on sunburst locust, beech and tri-color beech trees, dogwoods & Japanese maples. Any suggestions for flowering shrubs other than potentilla, wiegela, forsythia and lilac? We are trying for continual color.

An effective way to have continual color in your garden would be to not make your selections solely on a plant’s flower, but more on its ability to have multi-seasonal appeal. Since you’ve stated that you have sufficient room, adding both multi-seasonal shrub choices as well as keeping a few single-season plants like the lilac and forsythia may suit your needs. I would suggest adding some of the smaller spireas (‘Neon Flash,’ ‘Goldflame‚’ etc.), Fothergilla, viburnums, Clethra and witch hazels to name a few.

As for the white birch, unfortunately there isn’t a good white-barked substitution. However, the river birch ‘Heritage’ (Betula nigra ‘Heritage’) is an excellent alternative. Red maple (Acer rubrum, clump form) is also a good substitution for the unique, 3-pronged birch silhouette.

Filed Under: Ask MG

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