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PLEASE NOTE: In the autumn of 1995, we hatched the idea for a free, local gardening publication. The following spring, we published the first issue of Michigan Gardener magazine. Advertisers, readers, and distribution sites embraced our vision. Thus began an exciting journey of helping our local gardening community grow and prosper.
After 27 years, nearly 200 issues published, and millions of copies printed, we have decided it is time to end the publication of our Print Magazine and E-Newsletter.

White pine problems

November 20, 2010   •   

Late this summer, the top vertical stem of our white pine turned brown and died. The balance of the tree remained healthy. In the fall, the brown began moving down the tree. This tree is about 7 years old and sits at the edge of our woods. It has eastern exposure with acidic soil. I am not sure if the sprinkler system hits it. When we first saw the top stem turning brown, we watered the tree several times with a Miracid. Earlier in the summer, we lost a white pine that started with these same symptoms. Is there anything we can do to save this tree?

Seeking the services of a certified arborist will be your best defense against losing your tree because it is exhibiting symptoms that can be caused by more than one problem. An insect, the white pine weevil, bores into the terminal shoot causing death of that branch. The weevil rarely kills the whole tree, but places it in a weakened state where the attack of other insects, diseases, or environmental problems can cause gradual death.

Eastern white pine (Pinus strobus) is a fast-growing tree. Unfortunately, as they mature, many develop problems. The symptoms reported are a general off-color, yellowing or browning of the needles, stunted growth, stunted needles, or total browning of the tree followed by death. The cause for the decline is most often due to environmental stresses rather than a particular pest. The stress opens the door to secondary attacks by diseases and insects, which then accelerate the decline of the tree. Stress is the primary problem because it weakens the tree’s natural resistance.

Location of a white pine tree is very important for proper health and vigor. White pines require well-drained, deep, fertile, acidic soil with a moderate amount of moisture. They do not tolerate poorly-drained soil, high pH, compacted soil, a thin topsoil layer, buried debris or drought. Any other conditions that restrict root growth are also detrimental to white pine trees. Root diseases and cankers are the most common fungal pathogens that attack the Eastern white pine. Root disease symptoms are characterized by overall poor growth, the tree becomes off-color, wilts and dies.

Insects often act as vectors (transporters of the pathogen) for diseases. They breed in the dead trees and stumps. Then the new generations move to the surrounding stressed trees, bringing the disease with them. Other attackers of stressed white pine include the pinewood nematode, which feeds on vascular tissue in the branches and trunks of all pines and some other conifers. An insect called the pine sawyer beetle acts as a vector for the nematode, introducing it to healthy trees. Damage from the pinewood nematode is seen as sudden wilting and death.

When Eastern white pine trees decline they should be removed quickly so they do not act as breeding places for insects that spread diseases to surrounding trees. Replace dead trees with other evergreens that can better tolerate the existing site conditions.

Filed Under: Ask MG

Tips for Overwintering and Growing Raspberries in Michigan

November 20, 2010   •   

I am growing raspberries a small patch of raspberry bushes. I have cut them back for the fall. I would like to know what I need to do to care for these plants. What should I amend the soil with and in what season? I have a lot of clay in my soil, but have amended it with my compost over the years.

Since you have already cut your raspberry canes back, I presume you have autumn-fruiting varieties. Their annual cycle is maintained by pruning all of the canes to ground level each winter. If not cut back, they fruit again. A bigger crop is gained from strong new canes. Generally it is best to do any pruning in late winter, when the plant is dormant. A sheltered site is advisable, but one that also has good air circulation. Walls and fences do not provide that. Raspberries are very prone to viral diseases, although there are new varieties more resistant to these inherent problems. There is no cure for viral diseases. The plants must be dug up and discarded. Any suckers from overlooked root fragments must be removed and the bed not replanted with raspberries for at least five years.

If your canes survive the winter, apply a general fertilizer along the rows in March. Water it in and apply a mulch layer of well-rotted compost, which will keep the soil cool and moist in the summer and hold down weeds. Peat and bark are less effective than good compost. Raspberries are a thirsty crop and must be watered regularly, especially when fruit is swelling. Although your soil has considerable clay, your amendment with compost is right on track. Amended clay is a far more preferable soil base for raspberries than a sandy loam. A sand-based soil drains too quickly for this fruit crop’s needs. Opt for a drip hose to avoid excessive water on the leaves. When cultivating out weeds, avoid hoeing too deeply and damaging roots growing near the surface. This will stimulate the plant to sucker, a survival technique, since it thinks it’s under attack.

Elsewhere: Recommended storage and use tips for your fresh raspberries

Related: Why didn’t my blueberry plants produce blossoms or fruit?

Filed Under: Ask MG Tagged With: growing, Michigan, raspberries

Maintaining a tulip tree

November 12, 2010   •   

I have a large tulip tree; the roots of this tree were damaged during a fence installation. Subsequently the tree developed slime flux and many branches died. I have kept the tree well-watered and fertilized, and it appears to be recovering and making much new growth. When would be the proper time to remove the dead branches from the tree? They are unsightly and some are quite large and could damage structures if they fell.

The tulip tree (Liriodendron tulipifera) is not a tree for residential property. Many times we as gardeners just cannot help ourselves and purchase or inherit a tree that struggles where it is planted. The tulip tree needs a large, open area to grow and develop its branches and root system to display its real beauty and remain healthy.

You are taking the correct steps to insure the health and longevity of your tree after its injury. Since there are no curative or preventive measures for slime flux, you are correct in practicing IPM (Integrated Pest Management) to maintain the tree in a state of vigor by using a consistent watering and fertilization program and minimizing future wounds or injuries.

The best time to prune off the dead limbs would be in the tree’s dormant season, leaving less chance to spread the disease. When pruning, use a 20 percent bleach solution in water to dip and wipe your tools when changing cutting areas. This procedure will stop the spread of the disease from infected tools to healthy tree tissue.

Lastly, please investigate all the symptoms of slime flux to confirm your diagnosis, as this bacterial disease does not usually affect tulip trees in our area. Other diseases and insects are more likely to cause a problem showing some of the same symptoms, like aphids, which secrete large quantities of “honeydew” (a clear sticky substance). Unlike slime flux, however, there is a treatment program for aphids.

Filed Under: Ask MG

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