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PLEASE NOTE: In the autumn of 1995, we hatched the idea for a free, local gardening publication. The following spring, we published the first issue of Michigan Gardener magazine. Advertisers, readers, and distribution sites embraced our vision. Thus began an exciting journey of helping our local gardening community grow and prosper.
After 27 years, nearly 200 issues published, and millions of copies printed, we have decided it is time to end the publication of our Print Magazine and E-Newsletter.

What’s causing the dying branches in my silver maple?

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I have been noticing a problem with my silver maple for several years now. It is a mature tree with whole branches dying off. Each year another 5 to 10 percent of the tree fails to support new growth. The remaining branches look quite healthy and the tree continues to grow. Recently I’ve begun noticing the same occurrence with other maples in the Clawson area. What’s happening?

Silver maples are fast growers, 10 to 12 feet in 4 to 5 years. Unfortunately, with fast growth comes a weak-wooded tree. This makes it susceptible to wind, ice and snow damage in Michigan. Since your maple is mature and demonstrating slow dieback over a period of 4 to 5 years, it is probably succumbing to maple decline. Your observance of other maples in the Clawson area exhibiting the same symptoms demonstrates the pitfalls of planting a single tree species in an urban environment. Silver maples are often used because they grow fast and give that “mature community” look in a very short time span.

Maple decline is caused predominantly by environmental stress. Trees avoid stress through proper pruning, opening the canopy for air circulation and reducing limb breakage. Silver maples benefit from spring fertilization with a high-nitrogen formulation. Watering well during dry spells, at least 1 inch per week, also decreases stress. Mulch also helps to reduce evaporation but do not let it touch the trunk. Avoid soil compaction under trees by limiting mowing and walking on the surface when it is wet. Two of our worst culprits are riding lawnmowers and weed whips. They can increase compaction and cause trunk and root injury, especially for silver maples, whose roots are exceptionally close to the soil surface.

Plant Focus: Catmint

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Walters Gardens
‘Six Hills Giant’ One of the finest blue-flowering perennials available is a type of Nepeta called catmint. Not catnip. Not mint. Catnip is the version that’s popular amongst cats. Mint, as we commonly know it, is in a completely different genus (Mentha) and, although some are attractive, most are used for herbal applications. Mint can also spread uncontrollably through the garden. Catmint, on the other hand, forms manageable clumps, has scented foliage, and is excellent in the perennial or rose garden. There are short and tall varieties available, but almost all of them form clouds of blue spikes above gray-green leaves from mid June to late July or August. No sunny garden in need of blue-flowering plants should be without at least one type of catmint.

Walters Gardens
‘Dawn to Dusk’ Native to parts of Asia, catmint has been used for centuries in Europe. The English have used various Nepetas as long-blooming, scented perennials along the front of the border or pathway. A minty fragrance is released when one brushes along the leaves or steps upon a stray stem. Nepeta is very easy to grow and is even tolerant of poor soil. Some plants in fertile, rich soil will require division every 2 to 4 years to keep the growth habit tidy and manageable. Plants will tolerate full or partial sun but the taller varieties may require staking in less than full sun. Bees and butterflies are especially fond of catmint flowers, while deer and rabbits shy away. Catmint is a fine cut flower as well.

The blue flowers and airy growth habit of catmint make it the perfect companion plant for a rose planting. The small blue flowers of Nepeta look exquisite with the large and bold flowers of almost any color rose. Many summer-blooming perennials are also excellent compliments to catmint. The light and delicate flowers of catmint are perfect against larger flowers. Try the pink bee balm ‘Marshal’s Delight,’ white Shasta daisies, daylilies, tall garden phlox, or coneflower to name a few.

The species of catmint that is most readily available is Nepeta x faassenii. Varieties of this species have a horizontal growth habit and can grow quite wide if not divided every few years. ‘Blue Wonder’ has dark blue flowers and is one of the best low growers. It only grows 12 to 15 inches tall and can spread as wide as 3 feet. The flowers begin in mid-June and will persist until the beginning of August. Deadheading is not necessary but shearing the top third of the plant can prolong the bloom time by a few weeks.

Walters Gardens
‘Walker’s Low’ One of the best-known catmints is the taller ‘Six Hills Giant.’ It is used extensively in England to produce the classic blue border so often portrayed in gardening books. It has violet flowers above plants up to 30 inches tall. ‘Walker’s Low’ is very similar to ‘Six Hills Giant,’ but has slightly darker violet flowers. Its name implies a more compact growth habit, but in reality, this is one of the largest catmints available. It has extra long, 30-inch stems that relax to form a mound 18 to 24 inches tall. Like ‘Six Hills Giant,’ it will start blooming in June and continue through August. Both of these varieties are perfect choices for the front of a bed where a wide, dramatic border of blue is desired. For a pink catmint, try the newer variety ‘Dawn to Dusk’ which features pink flowers on plants that grow three feet tall.

If your garden requires a more erect grower, try a Siberian catmint or Nepeta sibirica. The variety ‘Souvenir d’Andre Chaudron’ has large lavender-blue flower spikes. This one stands up nicely and can be used further back in the border. It begins blooming in July and will last until the end of August or September. It is exceptionally hardy (zone 3) and should not require dividing as frequently as the shorter varieties.

Catmint has something to offer nearly every garden and gardener. The novice will appreciate its undemanding growth requirements, while the new garden will benefit from its rapid rate of growth. Everyone can enjoy its fragrance and the abundance of blue flowers that it provides for the garden or your freshly picked summer bouquet. Catmint may be just what you need for the dog days of summer.

W. Atlee Burpee & Co.
N. mussini Nepeta (NEP-uh-tuh)

Common name: Catmint

Plant type: Perennial

Plant size: Height and width: 12-36 inches, depending on variety

Habit: Clump-forming, airy mound

Hardiness: Zone 5 or colder

Flower color: Various shades of blue and violet; pink

Flower size: 1/2 to 1-1/2 inches long

Bloom period: Summer

Leaf color: Gray-green

Leaf size: 1-1/4 to 3 inches long

Light: Full to partial sun

Soil: Any well-drained soil 

Uses: Blue-flowering plant, perennial border, rose bed, cut flower

Companion plants: Roses, bee balm, daisies, daylilies, tall garden phlox, coneflowers, and many more summer-blooming perennials

Remarks: Easy to grow, fragrant foliage


George Papadelis is the owner of Telly’s Greenhouse in Troy, MI.

Latest USDA pesticide reports helps consumers choose organic fruits and vegetables

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Many consumers these days are fixated on buying organic food. But, many of them don’t have much information on what is motivating their organic purchases other than, “it’s better for me.” With the recent release of the annual USDA report on pesticides, there is no better time than now to learn more about pesticides and organics as they relate to your fruit and vegetable choices.

There’s a “Dirty Dozen,” headlined by apples, celery and strawberries. And there’s also a catchy “Clean 15” of fruits and vegetables lowest in pesticides. The top three on that list: onions, sweet corn and pineapples.

The Environmental Working Group (EWG) suggests that people buy organically grown fruits and vegetables for the varieties on its list of the most likely to carry pesticide residues. But the group also says the health benefits from produce mean that “eating conventionally-grown produce is far better than not eating fruits and vegetables at all.”

This story is well-timed as there is still time to plant several of the dirty dozen items in your own garden. In a couple months you could enjoy your own pesticide-free harvest!

Read the full story here at NPR

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