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PLEASE NOTE: In the autumn of 1995, we hatched the idea for a free, local gardening publication. The following spring, we published the first issue of Michigan Gardener magazine. Advertisers, readers, and distribution sites embraced our vision. Thus began an exciting journey of helping our local gardening community grow and prosper.
After 27 years, nearly 200 issues published, and millions of copies printed, we have decided it is time to end the publication of our Print Magazine and E-Newsletter.
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Detroit Free Press:
In neighborhoods nationwide, millions of dollars worth of Norway spruce and white pine trees are mysteriously turning brown and dying this summer, and the chief suspect is a new lawn chemical.
State officials and lawn care professionals say they think Imprelis, an herbicide introduced last year for commercial use by DuPont, may be attacking pines and spruces as if they were weeds.
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Why doesn’t my shadblow shrub (Amelanchier canadensis) ever produce berries? It blooms beautifully every year. I read that it needs to be pollinated by a different variety, so I planted the serviceberry Amelanchier alnifolia, but still no berries. What am I doing wrong?
The serviceberry (Amelanchier) is a small to medium ornamental tree or shrub with an upright oval to upright clump habit. It is a native plant that has four-season value in the landscape. It has showy white flowers in the spring, medium green leaves that cast dappled shade in summer, and fall color that ranges from yellow to orange to red. Typically, it boasts edible, round fruits that exhibit color transitions from green to yellow to red to blue to purple to black. The fruit ripens in June and attracts birds and squirrels that sometimes devour the fruit before they are completely ripe.
These plants can handle full sun to full shade, but prefer partial shade and moist, well drained, rich, organic, and acidic soil. Although these are the preferred soil conditions, they will tolerate just about any soil and pH except very dry or poorly drained, wet sites.
There are several Amelanchier species and hybrids, and it is often difficult to distinguish among them. These plants are propagated primarily by seeds or rooted stem cuttings. The flowers are hermaphroditic (having both male and female organs) and are pollinated by bees. They are self-fertile and don’t require a partner plant, although the addition of a second species should improve the berry production.
Now, why isn’t there any fruit on your plants? It could be that your shrubs are not mature enough. Some fruit-bearing trees and shrubs have to be a certain age before bearing fruit. Some also have alternating light-bearing and heavy-bearing years. Heavy fruiting takes away from the flower production the following year.
All that being said, it is most likely that the birds are enjoying the berries before you even get a chance to see them. A visit to your local garden center to purchase a fruit tree net may prove to be the answer. Throw the net over the shrub at bloom time and then harvest berries for your own enjoyment. However, if serviceberry jams, jellies, and pies are not your goal, don’t worry, just be happy for the birds.
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What is the best time of year to reseed bare patches in the lawn? Can it be done in the spring? If so, please provide tips.
In Michigan, late August to mid-September is the ideal time to seed all grass types. The soil is warm yet the air has cooled down from summer temperatures.
However, most homeowners don’t want to go through the summer with a spotty lawn. Mid to late spring can be a suitable time to reseed bare patches in the lawn, after frost warnings are lifted. The soil temperature needs to be at least 50 degrees for grass to germinate at a normal rate. Waiting longer gives the soil more time to warm up to about 60 degrees and improves your success rate. Given sufficient moisture, the seed will germinate quicker with the added warmth, depending on the seed type.
Do not apply any spring lawn weed killers or crabgrass preventers. If you do, grass seed will not sprout or the seedlings will be killed along with the weeds and crabgrass.
Prepare the patches by removing any weeds. Scratch up the soil with a heavy dirt rake or cultivator. Mix up 1/3 sphagnum peat moss with 2/3 good garden soil to get a light, spongy texture. Add 1-1/2 cups of balanced organic fertilizer per bushel of soil making sure the fertilizer has a high phosphorous (P) content to stimulate root growth. Most “starter fertilizers” are high in phosphorous. Spread this mixture over the bare spot until it is slightly higher than the surrounding soil level. Gently work it into the scratched-up soil originally there.
Use a seed type similar to the existing grass unless it was the wrong kind to start with. Buy new seed. The percentage of seed that will germinate from old seed drops drastically with each year. Also avoid bargain seed. They generally contain the largest amount of annual or rough-bladed grasses.
Hand cast your seed and don’t be stingy. About 15 to 20 seeds per square inch is good. Bury the seed 1/8 to 1/4 inch into the soil by dragging a spring rake over the area with the tines inverted. Do not tamp so hard that you compact the soil. You want water to soak in easily. It is also helpful to cast some of the new seed to the outside of the repaired spot. This helps the new grass blend into the neighborhood!
Grass seed needs both moisture and warmth in order to sprout. Cooler temps will make it germinate slowly. But if there is a lack of moisture it won’t do a thing. Once the seed has germinated, avoid walking on the repaired spots to give the new plant roots time to dig in and acclimate. If you seed with a blended mix, the different types will germinate at different rates. So when you see green sprouts, continue to provide water for the later varieties to germinate.
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