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Overwintering dahlia tubers: How Dahlia Hill does it

August 10, 2011 •

For those readers interested in a little more detail about overwintering dahlias, here is a some more information that expands on the sidebar “Overwintering dahlia tubers: How Dahlia Hill does it” in the August 2011 issue of Michigan Gardener:

After the first hard frost in October, all the dahlia plants are carefully dug up by the Dahlia Hill Society members. Each plant can produce 5 to 20 new tubers, which are very carefully cut off the plant. They are individually labeled with a permanent marker and are rinsed in a light chlorine solution (5% chlorine to water; just enough to kill harmful bacteria). The dahlias are soaked in that solution for about 10 minutes, and then they drip dry on a screen for several minutes.

Next, they are placed into white plastic storage bags, as many as 40 or so in a bag (depending on the size of the tubers), and covered with fine, dry vermiculite. The bags are closed and folded over, but are not made airtight. The tubers are stored alphabetically in large, cardboard boxes, 3 to 6 bags per box. The basement storage room is humid and temperature-controlled to about 55 degrees.

Can I overwinter annual ornamental grasses?

August 6, 2011 •

In containers this season, I planted Pennisetum setaceum ‘Rubrum’ and ‘Burgundy Giant’ (fountain grass) as well as Phormium (New Zealand flax), which are treated as annuals. I don’t have a greenhouse, but can they be overwintered indoors? I successfully overwintered cannas last season.

Around late August, move the ornamental grasses and Phormium into a very shady spot outside and remove any other plant material from the container. Doing this will help your plants acclimate to indoor light conditions. Remember, full sun inside is about the same light as full shade outside. After a few weeks in the shade, remove any plumes from the grasses. Check both the plants and their soil for insects, and spray if needed. Find a location inside where the plants will receive as much sunlight as possible (a south or west exposure is best). Keep in mind that Phormium is a tropical plant and enjoys very warm temperatures, so be very careful to keep it away from drafts. Wait a couple of weeks and prune back the grasses to 6 inches above the soil line (not necessary with Phormium). Be sure to cut back on your watering through the low light, winter months. Next spring, after one more trim, set the plants outside in the shade again and gradually move them into the sunlight over a 2-week period.

Why is my Russian sage flopping to the ground?

August 4, 2011 •

I have 3 Russian sage plants (2 different varieties) planted in partial to full sun. They are 2 to 4 years old. They flop along the ground and will not grow upright. I remember having a Russian sage several years ago that did the same thing. What am I doing wrong?

Russian sage can flop in mid-season, once it has attained the bulk of its normal height. Partial sun conditions can cause the plant to “stretch” a bit, looking for the sun. Such excessive growth can cause the stems to become top-heavy, and then flop.

The plants like a full day of sun when they can get it. Usually 8 hours is best. They are also drought-tolerant once they become established. If they are kept warmer and drier, you’ll frequently find they tend to stay somewhat shorter and more compact, and are more able to hold themselves upright.

There are supports available that consist of a ring that has a grid in it. The plants will grow through this grid, and partially hide it while they grow. So, if you have given Russian sage all the sun that you can, and the plants still flop over, try using one of these supports, or even a regular peony ring.

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