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PLEASE NOTE: In the autumn of 1995, we hatched the idea for a free, local gardening publication. The following spring, we published the first issue of Michigan Gardener magazine. Advertisers, readers, and distribution sites embraced our vision. Thus began an exciting journey of helping our local gardening community grow and prosper.
After 27 years, nearly 200 issues published, and millions of copies printed, we have decided it is time to end the publication of our Print Magazine and E-Newsletter.

Janet’s Journal: Age Before Beauty?

May 1, 2013   •   3 Comments

Lovers of old gardens can grow the species that can’t be rushed. False indigo (Baptisia australis) is one long-lived perennial that has to be planted, given room, and nearly forgotten before it “takes,” surprising us one May with a spectacular show.
Lovers of old gardens can grow the species that can’t be rushed. False indigo (Baptisia australis) is one long-lived perennial that has to be planted, given room, and nearly forgotten before it “takes,” surprising us one May with a spectacular show.

By Janet Macunovich / photos by Steven Nikkila

As a garden grows, so grows the gardener.

I spent a summer in England, ostensibly as nanny to a four year old niece. There, the brothers Cameron changed my life. These men—I never knew their first names, addressing both as “Mr. Cameron”—were caretakers of a church in Shenley Church End, Buckinghamshire. A Cameron had been the church caretaker, lived in that home, and tended the walled cottage garden since the late 1600’s.

My first visit was in early June when the elder Cameron found me studying headstones in the church graveyard. He asked me into the garden for tea. I invited myself back to talk flowers, and returned throughout the summer to run wheelbarrow and dig for the two, then 70 and 80 years old.

Back home in Michigan that fall, I dug over the garden I’d left behind and planned to change it from rows of vegetables and annuals to perennials. It went fallow into the winter, insulated under a thick layer of leaves, ready for a grand metamorphosis. I spent that winter buried in catalogues, searching out the seeds of plants I’d coveted through the summer, unaware of how much I myself was changing.

Sweet alyssum and thyme sow themselves in this path and are selectively weeded.
Sweet alyssum and thyme sow themselves in this path and are selectively weeded.

Now, more than a quarter century has passed and with it the Camerons’ garden and even Shenley Church End—swallowed in a conglomerate community called Milton Keynes. The church is closed, lost in a hard-to-find siding off the new traffic flow. Looking into the walled yard attached to the deserted caretaker’s house, you see only the field grass and weeds that come to abandoned ground everywhere.

Yet the inspiration I took from that delightful garden still grows.

Initially, I mistook its nature.

I worked happily in my garden for years, thinking to reproduce the plants, the sitting areas, the gracefully trained vines of the Camerons’ retreat. I felt some regret as my palate expanded to include species that were probably never available to the Camerons—it seemed I would leave their garden behind. After several seasons more, I was surprised to see that the similarities between what had developed here in Waterford and what had been there in Buckinghamshire were still greater than the differences. I understood then that my real goal had been and still was to recreate the feeling of that English garden, not a replica of its beds.

Only time and the environment can weave such intricate, engaging patterns where one spreading plant meets another. Golden star (Chrysogonum virginianum) and ‘Emerald Gaiety’ Euonymus).
Only time and the environment can weave such intricate, engaging patterns where one spreading plant meets another. Golden star (Chrysogonum virginianum) and ‘Emerald Gaiety’ euonymus.

More recently, I doubted the value of pursuing that feeling. When I began gardening on others’ properties as much or more as I gardened on my own, the thrill of the new garden claimed me. Working in my own beds was not as much fun as creating a garden from non-garden. Stripping sod, outlining beds on a clean slate, watching a design move from paper to reality produced a creative high that was tough to find except in a new garden. To make anything truly new in an established garden, so much energy had to be expended in preparation, just to clear away existing plants and memories!

Established gardens began to seem more trouble than they were worth in other ways. Plants overgrew their bounds, sometimes in ugly or destructive ways only partially remedied with tedious pruning and awkward restraints. Weeds that sneaked in and became entrenched could sometimes be eradicated only through wholesale slaughter of, or painstaking lifting and cleaning of desirable plants. Pests sometimes claimed the upper hand, particularly as conditions changed around older plants. Looking at sections of garden left thin and raw for these and other reasons, I began to think it would be better to tear everything out and start new every five or six years, or move to a new gardening site entirely.

We see so many images of mature, full gardens. It’s no wonder instant landscapes are on many wish lists.
We see so many images of mature, full gardens. It’s no wonder instant landscapes are on many wish lists.

Golden stonecrop (Sedum kamtschaticum) and Ajuga repens.
Golden stonecrop (Sedum kamtschaticum) and Ajuga repens.

Creeping red thyme (Thymus coccineum)
Creeping red thyme (Thymus coccineum)

Today, I’m back on the Camerons’ track. I have identified the seed which germinated in me back then as love of Hortus venerablus—the old garden. Even with its limitations, its advantages are overwhelming. It’s now inextricably rooted in my heart.

To name just a few advantages, beyond the obvious ones of mature hedges and trees that cast shade…

In a garden tended over many years to discourage weeds, the seed bank in the soil shifts. Where it may once have had a high proportion of crabgrass seed—a species which can survive 20 years in the soil, waiting its chance to rise to the surface and sprout—it may eventually contain more daisy and coreopsis than dandelion, more globe thistle and coneflower than chickweed. Bare the soil in a new garden and stand ready to hoe lamb’s quarters, dock, pigweed and spurge. Pull the mulch back from a bit of old bed and prepare to thin volunteer candytuft, pimpernel, campion and cranesbill. Weeding the cracks between new paving stones is a chore. Weeding the same spaces in an older garden, the tedium is broken by discovery and decisions to leave that patch of sweet alyssum, step over that seedling sedum, and allow that pesky Perilla to stay and shade out any other comers.

No amount of skill in planting can duplicate the beautiful way that nature weaves roots and stems among stones (Irish moss, Arenaria caespitosa verna).
No amount of skill in planting can duplicate the beautiful way that nature weaves roots and stems among stones (Irish moss, Arenaria caespitosa verna).

Only over time do natural organisms of all sizes take hold and reach a balance with each other. Fungal and bacterial diseases seem to move in first, but if the gardener keeps a level head and avoids trying to make the environment antagonistic to all such, a far greater number of benign and helpful microorganisms soon take hold. Some of these decompose organic matter, replacing store-bought fertilizer. Others infect and kill pests. Some are known to muscle into spaces each spring before their disease-causing relatives can reach them, creating a no-room-in-the-inn squeeze play that suppresses the proliferation of the baddies.

Worms, insect-eating insects, amphibians, birds and small mammals move in as the organic matter and smaller organisms they feed on become plentiful enough to support families. No wonder my long-ago trial with a hummingbird feeder failed! We should try again, now that there is so much better habitat, more water, more insects, an absence of bad-tasting pesticides and a wealth of alternative food sources. But then, why bother? The hummingbirds are here!

Above and below: Making a new garden appear where there was no garden before is so thrilling, it can almost convince us to just start fresh every five or six years.
Above and below: Making a new garden appear where there was no garden before is so thrilling, it can almost convince us to just start fresh every five or six years.

green-garden-jul13A client, relatively new to gardening, once wanted me to transplant a particular plant from my garden to hers, and took offense when I declined the work. She didn’t understand my explanation that the plant’s above ground appearance was a direct reflection of an extensive, old root system and an equally extensive network of life in the soil. Simple refusal would have been my best route because the to-your-bones understanding of that situation usually comes only with experience and years. She would have to learn for herself that no amount of skill with a spade can succeed in a lasting transfer of the essence of old.

The thrill of the new still exhilarates me—I count myself fortunate to be able to feel it in large doses in clients’ and friends’ yards. Yet as an admirer of age, I’m also happier in my older beds, as delighted watching things grow as I am at their maturity. The “routines” of maintenance are more enjoyable and the unrealistic expectation that things will ever be and stay “done” crops up less. I may even be learning to coach others in cultivating an appreciation of both aspects of gardening.

Oh, to sip tea with the Camerons today, and talk to them of these things. How we might laugh over what I said and did then as I plotted to transplant Hortus venerablus!

Janet Macunovich is a professional gardener and author of the books “Designing Your Gardens and Landscape” and “Caring for Perennials.” Read more from Janet on her website www.gardenatoz.com.

Filed Under: Janet’s Journal Tagged With: creeping red thyme, euonymus, false indigo, garden, golden stonecrop, Janet Macunovich, mature, sweet alyssum

Janet’s Journal: Use these tips to help prepare your garden for visitors

April 30, 2013   •   Leave a Comment

bare-space-better-than-clutter-may13
Bare space is better than clutter, or fading, failing plants.

 

By Janet Macunovich / Photographs by Steven Nikkila

Are you having guests over to see the garden? Great! Let’s talk tactics.

Without losing sight of the glory of the moment, fast forward in your mind’s eye to the visit. Where are high points and holes going to be? Aim to spotlight the stars and mask fading players.

Difficulty seeing past whatever’s in bloom right now? Great stage managers use reference books on perennials to determine what will be in peak bloom for your visitors. A viewer’s eye will be drawn to full bloom, i.e. concentrations of color. That’s where garden statuary should be placed, companion annuals most carefully chosen, and where advance work with stakes and pest control will yield the highest pay-off.

Pick garden art to work well with the star. For a star that blooms white with hints of pink, recall that retired flamingo. A columnar plant playing the lead? Echo it with smaller columnar accents or contrast it behind a low, wide sculpture. Splashes of gold on the foliage? A golden gazing globe may be just the ticket.

Of supporting annuals, ask for more than color. Select them to complement the star’s color, form and texture. If that lead player has daisy shape flowers, use an annual with spiky blooms. Pair upright plants with low, spreading types and large foliage with ferny.

Think about supporting shaky stars now. Don’t be one who cries on visit day over storm-flattened delphiniums, and deludes herself that salvation can be found in bundling them up onto last minute stakes, crucifixion style.

As pretty as purple coneflower (Echinacea purpurea) is, black-eyed Susan (Rudbeckia) is not it’s best companion, for the flower form is too similar. Spike-form blazing star (Liatris Spicata) are better matches for coneflowers, or tall wands of snakeroot (Cimicifuga racemosa).
As pretty as purple coneflower (Echinacea purpurea) is, black-eyed Susan (Rudbeckia) is not it’s best companion, for the flower form is too similar. Spike-form blazing star (Liatris Spicata) are better matches for coneflowers, or tall wands of snakeroot (Cimicifuga racemosa).

Review your garden journals or look up starring plants in a pest control book. To what problems are they prone? Keep a preventive eye peeled.

Back to the bit players who will not be at their best. Aim only to make them presentable. Edit the script carefully so they don’t have important lines.

If the plants in question will pass their peak bloom before show time, and if that’s before the end of June, they are fair game for hard cut-back, even before they finish bloom. They can be cut back to clean foliage, even to the base. Given three weeks and plenty of water, most will flush out with new foliage—presentable if not stellar. If they don’t come back in time for the tour, send in stand-ins. If they never come back at all…that’s rare, but it’s the price of show biz!

About those stand-ins. Remember that they shouldn’t upstage the stars. Better to place pots of neat foliage—houseplants, or perennials not yet in bloom—than call attention to the spot with bright flower color. Never spotlight such an area by underlining it or ringing it with annuals. Few things worse in theater than when all eyes turn to a player whose costume is awry or who can’t recall her lines.

Now for last-minute sleight of hand, à la Vita Sackville-West and her stick-on blooms.

Assess the scenery a week before the visit. If a star is failing, grab a wallet and go recruiting. Garden centers have large pots of annuals for such emergencies. Perennials can be cast last-minute, too.

Weeds drawing your eye and raising your blood pressure before the show? Seek a second opinion before you blow that artistic gasket. Some weeds are well known, but some may pass for planned acts. Ask your reviewer—weeds of the unusual type which are also happy and lush may actually pass muster as can’t-put-my-finger-on-it perennials. For weeds too type-cast to play the part of a good guy, or too spotty to appear planned, nip them off the day before the big event if you can’t dig them out properly. Or cover them with newspaper and mulch. Bare space is better than weedy space.

About mulch. Use just one type throughout the garden and make it dark and fine in texture. Cocoa hulls are great, but using them for a large garden can be costly. As an alternative I use composted woody fines or double shredded hardwood bark.

Turn the water on the night before the visit. A chorus line of dark mulch and clean, moist leaves can carry most any show.

For that worst emergency, where an area must be cleared and replanted shortly before a visit, plant simply. Go for elegance rather than splash. Don’t plant regimented rows but clusters of 3. For example, given room for 15 salvias on 6-inch centers, I plant 5 tight clusters of three instead, and give each cluster more space around it than I would give a single plant of its type. The individual plants will maintain glowing good health since they have space to root outward from their cluster, yet have more immediate visual appeal as triplets. Between different types of plants, leave bare space. So if you’re planting a bed with salvia, snapdragon and lantana, and cluster-planted salvia at eight inches between clumps, leave 20 inches of open space between the snapdragon area and the lantana area. Dark, mulched soil will outline each mass, accentuating its difference from the other.

Finally, enjoy the visit. Play your part. Allow yourself to be taken in by your own tricks. Don’t apologize for flaws—your guests probably won’t even notice them if you don’t point them out. Do gush over your successes!

Janet Macunovich is a professional gardener and author of the books “Designing Your Gardens and Landscape” and “Caring for Perennials.” Read more from Janet on her website www.gardenatoz.com.

Filed Under: Janet’s Journal Tagged With: garden tours, garden visitors, Janet Macunovich, preparing

DNR advises caution to prevent spread of oak wilt disease

April 24, 2013   •   Leave a Comment

Oak wilt spreads from tree to tree through connected root systems. Untreated, the fungus spreads to adjacent red oak trees, often killing large groups of trees within a few years, eventually killing all nearby root-grafted oaks. These leaves are from an infected oak.
Oak wilt spreads from tree to tree through connected root systems. Untreated, the fungus spreads to adjacent red oak trees, often killing large groups of trees within a few years, eventually killing all nearby root-grafted oaks. These leaves are from an infected oak.

April 15 is the beginning of the yearly window when oak wilt can be transmitted from diseased to healthy red oak trees, the Department of Natural Resources announced.

According to Dr. Robert Heyd, forest pest management program manager for the DNR’s Forest Resources Division, oak wilt is a serious disease of oak trees—mainly red oaks, including northern red oak, black oak and pin oak. Red oaks often die within a few weeks after becoming infected. White oaks are more resistant, therefore the disease progresses more slowly.

“The normal time-tested advice is to prevent oak wilt by not pruning or otherwise “injuring” oaks from April 15 to July 15,” Heyd said. Heyd added that the spread of oak wilt occurs during this time of year as beetles move spores from fungal fruiting structures on the trees killed last year by oak wilt to wounds on healthy oaks. As warmer weather melts away snow and ice, the beetles that move oak wilt become active.

He said although oak wilt hasn’t been detected in every Michigan county, the need for vigilance is present statewide. “With the transport of firewood and other tree-related activities, you have to assume the risk is present, whether you live in metro Detroit or in the Upper Peninsula.”

Spring is a popular time for people to move firewood to vacation properties and other locations. During this April-to-July period, Heyd said it’s vital not to move wood from oak wilt-killed trees. These trees are often cut into firewood and moved, sometimes many miles from their original locations. Any wounding of oaks in this new area can result in new oak wilt infections as beetles move spores from the diseased firewood to fresh wounds on otherwise healthy trees.

The DNR recommends that anyone who suspects they have oak wilt-tainted firewood should cover it with a plastic tarp all the way to the ground, leaving no openings. This keeps the beetles away and generates heat inside the tarp, helping to destroy the fungus. Once the bark loosens on the firewood, the disease can no longer be spread.

New oak wilt sites have been traced to spring and early summer wounding from tree-climbing spikes, rights-of-way pruning, nailing signs on trees and accidental tree-barking. If an oak is wounded during this critical time, the DNR advises residents to cover the wound immediately with either a tree-wound paint or a latex paint to help keep the beetles away.

Once an oak is infected, the fungus moves to neighboring red oaks through root grafts. Oaks within approximately 100 feet of each other—depending on the size of the trees—have connected or grafted root systems. Left untreated, oak wilt will continue to move from tree to tree, progressively killing more red oaks over an increasingly larger area. These untreated pockets also serve as a source of inoculum for the overland spread of the disease.

To get more information on the background, symptoms and prevention of oak wilt, as well as other forest health issues, visit www.michigan.gov/foresthealth and take a look at the DNR’s 2012 Forest Health Highlights Report.

Filed Under: Clippings, Tree Tips Tagged With: disease, oak wilt, trees

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