Michigan Gardener

SIGN UP to stay in touch!
We will send you occasional e-mails with gardening tips and information!


Digital Editions

Click on the cover to read now!

  • Home
  • Departments
    • Ask MG
    • Books
    • Clippings
    • Garden Snapshots
    • MG in the News
    • Janet’s Journal
    • Plant Focus
    • Profile
    • Raising Roses
    • Thyme for Herbs
    • Tools and Techniques
    • Tree Tips
  • Garden Event Calendar
  • Resources
    • Alternatives to Impatiens
    • Garden Help
    • Soil and Mulch Calculator
    • Public Gardens
  • Web Extras
  • About
    • About Us
    • Editorial Content
    • Privacy Policy
    • Contact Us
Home Uncategorized Getting rid of aggressive lily of the valley

PLEASE NOTE: In the autumn of 1995, we hatched the idea for a free, local gardening publication. The following spring, we published the first issue of Michigan Gardener magazine. Advertisers, readers, and distribution sites embraced our vision. Thus began an exciting journey of helping our local gardening community grow and prosper.
After 27 years, nearly 200 issues published, and millions of copies printed, we have decided it is time to end the publication of our Print Magazine and E-Newsletter.

Getting rid of aggressive lily of the valley

December 1, 2017   •   2 Comments

One side of my backyard is overgrown with lily of the valley that came from my neighbor’s yard under the fence. I try digging them out in the spring when the ground is somewhat workable but I always seem to lose the battle. The soil is mostly clay and very hard to work with. I would like to get rid of them; any advice? B.P., Taylor

The creeping rhizomes of lily of the valley (Convallaria majalis) allow for rapid spread even in mediocre conditions. The clay may be hard for you to work in, but it hardly deters their persistent rootstock. Even a small piece of lingering rhizome can erupt in basal leaves. Lily of the valley spawns a love-hate relationship from gardeners in spring. They are one of the earliest fragrant white flowers, but once bloomed, the foliage browns out and dies back. In the meantime, the rhizomes grow and further invade areas of established lawns and gardens.

As they are in your neighbor’s yard, you will have to put a seamless metal (sheet roll aluminum) or stiff plastic barrier at least 18 inches down into the soil along the fence on your side where the plants grow. Stake it against the fence to prevent the rhizomes from pushing and bending the barrier. Diligently spade fork the rhizomes out and reduce the amount of shade and moisture in that area, which they prefer. Be aggressive in your approach by target spraying with an herbicide, such as glyphosate, any leaves that break the soil’s surface. Do not plant other plants in this area for a season while you do battle. Any compost or granular fertilizers you would use for your plants will only feed leftover rootlets. Perhaps you can negotiate with your neighbor to move the lily of the valley to another part of their yard where it won’t invade your yard. If not, practice patience and persistence to get rid of this invasive perennial.

Filed Under: Uncategorized Tagged With: eradicating, lily of the valley, removing

Previous Post: DNR hosting public open houses to obtain feedback on proposed Belle Isle garden
Next Post: This Week: Documentary about renowned Dutch garden designer Piet Oudolf plays at DIA

Comments

  1. JEAN says

    May 13, 2020 at 8:15 pm

    How to get rid of wild lily of the valley?

    Reply
    • jhofley says

      May 17, 2020 at 2:45 pm

      Hi Jean- Lily of the valley is a difficult one to get rid of as it spreads with underground rhizomes. As long as any part of that rhizome remains underground, it will sprout a new seedling. Although a challenging task, we prefer manual removal over application of an herbicide. If you can loosen the area with a garden fork it will allow you to pull and sort through the rhizomes. Once you think you have removed all the rhizomes you can see, cover the area with cardboard or 3+ layers of newspaper for at least 6 months to deter any seedlings from sprouting. Good luck and thanks for reading Michigan Gardener. -Jonathon

      Reply

Leave a Reply Cancel reply

Your email address will not be published. Required fields are marked *

This site uses Akismet to reduce spam. Learn how your comment data is processed.

Copyright 1996-2025 Michigan Gardener. All rights reserved.