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PLEASE NOTE: In the autumn of 1995, we hatched the idea for a free, local gardening publication. The following spring, we published the first issue of Michigan Gardener magazine. Advertisers, readers, and distribution sites embraced our vision. Thus began an exciting journey of helping our local gardening community grow and prosper.
After 27 years, nearly 200 issues published, and millions of copies printed, we have decided it is time to end the publication of our Print Magazine and E-Newsletter.

Archive for the Ask MG department

What is causing my columbine to brown and drop its foliage every spring?

November 11, 2011   •   

Over the past couple years, I have noticed the same two things happen to my columbine foliage each spring. After the plants reach peak bloom, the leaves start to get curvy, light brown lines though them. Shortly thereafter, all the foliage is gone, seemingly overnight—bare stems are all that remains. The plants bloom well each spring and the foliage is healthy before the problems occur. Should I be doing anything about this?

Columbine is one of the loveliest plants for the partial shade garden. Its susceptibility to columbine leaf miners is one of the few disappointing aspects of this perennial. This annoying little critter that likes to decorate columbine leaves with its winding, whimsical and white trails belongs to the family of leaf-mining flies. The pale brown adult fly lays its eggs on the underside of the leaves where the eggs hatch and the larvae that emerge penetrate the leaf and live between the upper and lower surfaces of the leaf. They feed on the inner leaf tissue, creating winding trails usually light green, light brown or white in color. The infested leaves may turn white and die.

Spraying the infested plant with a systemic insecticide is the best solution to the problem. Orthene or Cygon are two Ortho brand products that will work well for the elimination of these pests. You may also use these products as a preventative measure by applying the insecticides to the foliage before it is infested. As with all insecticides, follow the directions on the package carefully. It is also recommended to remove and destroy any infested leaves. Also, be sure to rake out and destroy any foliage remains in the fall.

The “here today – gone tomorrow” mystery surrounding columbine foliage is a problem entirely separate from the designing leaf miners. Foliage stripped off in one day leaving nothing but a columbine skeleton can be blamed on chewing caterpillars. These tiny, green, munching machines attack plants in late spring and early summer, just as your columbine is coming into full glory! Columbine’s beloved delicate and thin leaves are the perfect texture for their insatiable appetites. Usually flowers and stems are the only remnants left standing, bobbing in the wind.

All is not lost, however, as the foliage will grow back in the same season and the plant will certainly return year after year since the root system is not affected by the caterpillars. Protecting the new growth, before or after a caterpillar attack, is the key. As with the control of the leaf miners, Orthene or Cygon are your best bet to get rid of the caterpillars. Apply early in the season before these pests can do any damage, usually the end of May.

Filed Under: Ask MG Tagged With: browning foliage, columbine, insecticide, leaf miners

Can wood from a diseased tree be used for firewood?

November 10, 2011   •   

Can any logs be used for firewood? Is there a problem in using logs from a diseased tree?

First of all, it is best for the “health” of your fireplace to use wood from hardwood trees (maple, oak, ash, hickory, elm, apple, etc.) rather than from evergreen trees. Evergreens contain high amounts of resins, which can quickly accumulate in the chimney as creosote, thereby creating a fire hazard.

Burning wood from diseased trees is usually not a problem, since the disease will not spread by smoke. Occasionally, storing logs can be a concern if there are active insects present in the wood itself, especially when bark beetles or borers are involved. In most cases, simply removing the bark can expose the insects to the elements and make the wood safer to store.

Filed Under: Ask MG Tagged With: diseased, firewood, wood

Do blue spruce trees grow well in South Carolina?

November 9, 2011   •   

Do blue spruce trees grow in South Carolina? We have a small blue spruce in a pot in Michigan and would like to move it to the Hilton Head area (South Carolina).

The Colorado spruce (Picea pungens) is native to the southwestern United States from Wyoming south to New Mexico. Colorado spruce are listed as USDA hardiness zones 3 to 7 and possibly zone 8. The Hilton Head area of South Carolina is zone 8, the maximum southernmost range for the Colorado spruce. This tree generally does not perform well in the heat of the deep south and they tend to decline over time. If you supply irrigation to the tree during the summer, you have a much better chance of long-term survival. Without irrigation the tree will probably not do well. The variety ‘Iseli Foxtail’ has been reported to prosper in Raleigh, North Carolina (zone 7b), and may do well as far south as Hilton Head.

Filed Under: Ask MG Tagged With: blue, picea pungens, spruce

What is the green moss substance covering the ground in my yard?

November 8, 2011   •   

I have noticed that my ground is covered with green mold, or at least I’m assuming it’s mold. Could you tell me what the problem might be and how to correct it? This is an area that gets full sun for at least 8 to 10 hours a day.

What you are describing sounds like moss. Moss usually grows in moist, dark areas that have a low pH soil (acidic). Since the area you describe is sunny, it probably has acidic or moist soil. You can either apply a moss killer to the area or scrape the surface to remove the moss. After the moss is dead or removed, you will want to improve the soil compaction (compact soil stays moist longer) by adding topsoil and peat moss to the area. You will also want to apply lime to help raise the pH level of the soil. Improving soil compaction and raising the pH level should prevent moss from showing up in the future.

Filed Under: Ask MG

What is causing Sedum and spring poppies to flop over?

November 7, 2011   •   

My Sedum ‘Autumn Joy’ and my spring poppies just cannot hold themselves upright. They are laying all over the ground like someone sat in the middle of the stems. Any idea why? Is it time to divide the clumps?

We are assuming that you are referring to the large, Oriental poppies. After blooming, Oriental poppies tend to decline and go dormant for the hot summer months. They will flatten out as this process occurs. If it does look unsightly, you can stake them as they grow early in the season, and the growth will hide whatever you use to support them.

Sedum ‘Autumn Joy’ will get very heavy toward the tops of the stems as they go into bloom. Water collects there when it rains, and that is generally when most plants tend to “flop.” Growing the plants in a location that remains fairly dry (or very well-drained) and receives no less than about six hours of direct sun should help the plants remain somewhat shorter, and more able to support themselves. Staking them is also an option; doing so before they get too large to hold themselves up is best.

Also, most perennials benefit from being divided every three to five years, depending on the growth rates of the individual plants. So if your clumps are large, it may be time to divide them. This tends to work rather well in the case of the Sedum.

Filed Under: Ask MG

Tips on propagating Coleus and Plectranthus

September 24, 2011   •   

I successfully took cuttings of Coleus and Plectranthus last year. I took approximately a 6-inch cutting. If I took a 12- to 18-inch cutting this fall, would I be that much further ahead toward having larger and bushier plants next spring and summer?

The answer to this question is an easy one. You say, “I successfully took cuttings of Coleus and Plectranthus last year.” It is hard for any gardener to improve on success with our plants, as hard as we may try. Sometimes we just need to leave well enough alone and enjoy our success and the fruits of our labors. Softwood stem cuttings taken in the fall from these plants (prior to a killing frost) can be enjoyed indoors all winter long. Then in March or April, again take several more cuttings and cultivate them to be planted in the garden when the weather warms. Use a sharp, clean knife to cut the stem just below a leaf node. Remove the lowest leaves, dip the cut end into a rooting hormone and insert into fresh, sterile potting soil. These cuttings will be ready to use in the garden by early June. A 4- to 6-inch cutting is a good size and any longer would be too long to successfully plant upright and could become a leggy plant. Both Coleus and Plectranthus should be pinched often to maintain their bushy habit.

Filed Under: Ask MG Tagged With: coleus, cuttings, plectranthus

What perennials are good for using in flower bouquets?

August 14, 2011   •   

What varieties of perennials would be good for using in flower bouquets?

While this list is not all-inclusive, here are some perennials that are well-suited for arranging: Black-eyed Susan (Rudbeckia), Coneflower (Echinacea), Coreopsis (Tickseed), Delphinium, Dianthus (Pinks, carnations), Iris, Lilies, Lavender, Liatris (Gayfeather or blazing star), Peonies, Phlox (tall), Shasta daisy, Sunflower (Heliopsis), Yarrow (Achillea)

Filed Under: Ask MG Tagged With: Coneflower, Coreopsis, Echinacea, flower bouquets, perennials, Rudbeckia, Tickseed

What are good vegetables to grow in a small space?

August 13, 2011   •   

I want to start growing vegetables next year, but I have a limited amount of space. Are there any vegetables I should avoid growing because of the space they require?

Without knowing how limited your space actually is, it’s difficult to make any specific recommendations of what to avoid growing due to space constraints. However, items that typically require a lot of room include squashes, pumpkins, melons, corn, and tomatoes that state “indeterminate growth” under the height heading. You will find that many vegetables that are on this list will also occur in dwarf forms that are suitable for smaller gardens. Try types that can grow on fences or trellises, if you have the vertical space. Items such as peas, most beans, and cucumbers are ideally suited for such situations. A combination of smaller varieties as well as climbing varieties will help you to get the most out of your “little plot.”

Filed Under: Ask MG Tagged With: climbing, small spaces, vegetables, vertical

What aren’t my divided peonies blooming?

August 12, 2011   •   

I divided some peonies 2 years ago and they haven’t bloomed since – neither last year, nor this year. Did I do something wrong?

Peonies are notorious for going extended lengths of time without blooming, especially following division or transplanting. They can go up to four years until they bloom again. They are exceptionally hardy, but sometimes take a little while to get their bearings after the roots are disturbed.

One thing to check, however, is the depth at which they are planted. The fleshy part of the roots should be only 1 to 2 inches below the soil surface. If planted any deeper, the plant will not bloom at all. If they are at the proper depth, getting adequate water, and receiving at least 6 hours of sunshine a day, then the best advice is to just sit tight – they will come around.

Filed Under: Ask MG Tagged With: dividing, peonies, transplanting

Can I overwinter annual ornamental grasses?

August 6, 2011   •   

In containers this season, I planted Pennisetum setaceum ‘Rubrum’ and ‘Burgundy Giant’ (fountain grass) as well as Phormium (New Zealand flax), which are treated as annuals. I don’t have a greenhouse, but can they be overwintered indoors? I successfully overwintered cannas last season.

Around late August, move the ornamental grasses and Phormium into a very shady spot outside and remove any other plant material from the container. Doing this will help your plants acclimate to indoor light conditions. Remember, full sun inside is about the same light as full shade outside. After a few weeks in the shade, remove any plumes from the grasses. Check both the plants and their soil for insects, and spray if needed. Find a location inside where the plants will receive as much sunlight as possible (a south or west exposure is best). Keep in mind that Phormium is a tropical plant and enjoys very warm temperatures, so be very careful to keep it away from drafts. Wait a couple of weeks and prune back the grasses to 6 inches above the soil line (not necessary with Phormium). Be sure to cut back on your watering through the low light, winter months. Next spring, after one more trim, set the plants outside in the shade again and gradually move them into the sunlight over a 2-week period.

Filed Under: Ask MG Tagged With: Burgundy Giant, ornamental grasses, overwinter, Pennisetum setaceum, Phormium, Rubrum

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