Michigan Gardener

SIGN UP to stay in touch!
We will send you occasional e-mails with gardening tips and information!


Digital Editions

Click on the cover to read now!

  • Home
  • Departments
    • Ask MG
    • Books
    • Clippings
    • Garden Snapshots
    • MG in the News
    • Janet’s Journal
    • Plant Focus
    • Profile
    • Raising Roses
    • Thyme for Herbs
    • Tools and Techniques
    • Tree Tips
  • Garden Event Calendar
  • Resources
    • Alternatives to Impatiens
    • Garden Help
    • Soil and Mulch Calculator
    • Public Gardens
  • Web Extras
  • About
    • About Us
    • Editorial Content
    • Privacy Policy
    • Contact Us

PLEASE NOTE: In the autumn of 1995, we hatched the idea for a free, local gardening publication. The following spring, we published the first issue of Michigan Gardener magazine. Advertisers, readers, and distribution sites embraced our vision. Thus began an exciting journey of helping our local gardening community grow and prosper.
After 27 years, nearly 200 issues published, and millions of copies printed, we have decided it is time to end the publication of our Print Magazine and E-Newsletter.

How to save money in the vegetable garden

December 1, 2010   •   Leave a Comment

Any seasoned vegetable gardener knows the pros and cons of growing one’s own vegetables. Cost isn’t usually one of the cons we list, but most would admit that the costs can add up – and quickly. With that in mind, this Reuters story has some good tips on what is most economical to grow in your garden.

Vegetable gardening may not be as frugal a strategy as you think it is. Just ask William Alexander, a man who wrote The $64 Tomato (Algonquin Books, 2007) after going overboard on his own garden. He did the math, and calculated that it cost that much per tomato by the time he was done “investing” in soil additives, plants, water, tomato cages, raised beds and more.

But that doesn’t stop most of us. The slow economy has prompted more people to garden than have in many years. So what if they pay for the privilege? You could argue that it is a fun and healthy hobby and “saving” money is only an afterthought. Maybe so, but it’s nice to save money in the garden, too. Here’s how.

Read the full story here…

Filed Under: Clippings

Treating scale on Euonymus

November 30, 2010   •   

I have Euonymus ‘Sarcoxie’ growing on a chain link fence. Every year, the plant is covered with small bumps and many of the leaves yellow. I think it is scale. I trim out the infested stems, but it seems to come back worse every year. Is there a way to get rid of it without using insecticides or am I fighting an uphill battle? I have a healthy Euonymus ‘Emerald ‘n’ Gold’ nearby. I wonder if I should remove the ‘Sarcoxie’ before it might infect the healthy plant?

The symptoms you describe are the calling card of Unaspis euonymi or euonymus scale. As they feed, these tiny insects cover themselves with nearly microscopic shells that range in shape and color. These well-armored pests are feeding on the undersides of the leaves, causing the yellowish blotches. You are correct to prune out badly infested growth. The gnarly growth habit of euonymus does not easily lend itself to being scrubbed with a soft brush and soapy water, a treatment that works for some scale infestations. Application of dormant oil before plant growth starts in spring may turn the tide, followed up by a summer oil treatment in late June or July when the crawlers emerge (baby scale insects). These oils are not what you really think of as insecticides, the oils merely smother the offending critters. To know when to apply the summer oil use the black electric tape trick. Wrap some black electric tape, sticky side facing outward, around a branch of the plant where you can see scales. When the crawlers hatch they will climb around and stick to the tape looking like whitish dust. Treat with summer oil immediately. Dormant oil and summer oils are different formulations, and used at the wrong time can damage the plants, so read the labels and make an educated choice of products. However, scale in euonymus can be lethal. Because popular varieties of euonymus are readily available at nurseries, you might save yourself a great deal of trouble by removing the ‘Sarcoxie’ before the scale can infect your ‘Emerald ‘n’ Gold.’ Scale, once established, is difficult to eradicate by even the most vigilant gardener. You may prefer to avoid the uphill battle and start fresh!

Filed Under: Ask MG

Aging crowns on coral bells

November 29, 2010   •   

Several coral bells (Heuchera) in my garden are 1 to 3 years old. On a few of them, the crown of the plant seems to be moving up, out of the ground. Since our last couple of winters have been mild, I wouldn’t think that it is due to frost heave (also, none of my other perennials have heaved). Since the plants now seem to be rather flimsy, should I replant them, lowering the crown to soil level? Did I do something wrong when I initially planted them or is this a characteristic of the plant?

You probably did nothing wrong when you initially planted your coral bells. They are a perennial that ages quickly. It is the characteristic of their crowns to move to the soil surface and to die out in the center of the clump. As a result you see their spindly growth and flimsy appearance. The ones that appear to be heaving are probably the older plants. Heuchera benefits from timely division and replanting every 3 years. In the spring, carefully remove the individual plants, checking the crowns for rot. Also look for small white grubs in the soil under the plants, as well as in the crown. Those are root weevil grubs and they enjoy feasting on the crowns. Cut away any portion that appears unhealthy, leaving a leaf bud or leaves, stem and some root for each division. If root weevil grubs are present, manually clean them from the soil, and rinse the plant roots in water. Rinsing the crown may also dislodge slug eggs, which look like translucent orbs the size of small peppercorns. Slugs have an uncanny ability to leave their eggs in places tightly clustered and evergreen, like the coral bell crowns. Unfortunately, rinsing and squishing the offenders won’t get all the ones who have eluded you in the soil. If at all possible, try to relocate the divisions to a new area. If this is not possible, remove 2 to 3 inches of soil and replace with clean, well-drained soil in the planting area.

Filed Under: Ask MG

Holiday gifts you can eat

November 29, 2010   •   

In the season of gift giving, here is an interesting take from CNN on home-grown gift ideas.

Some Americans are giving homegrown food and specialty items as presents this holiday season and spending a fraction of what they’d pay in a store.

Who doesn’t like a tasty bargain?

According to the National Gardening Association, about 41 million households participate in food gardening; 58 percent do it to grow better tasting food and 54 percent do it to save money on food bills.

Read to full story here…

Filed Under: Clippings

Is a castor bean plant unsafe for pets?

November 29, 2010   •   

Near the side of my home, I would like to plant castor bean from seed next year, but I found out that the plant is poisonous. I don’t have kids, but would it be dangerous for a pet, whether it be mine or a stray?

Although the castor bean plant is quite poisonous, most four-legged animals have more sense than we do, and they instinctively leave it alone. The large colorful seedpods are the most deadly part of the plant. Castor bean loves hot and humid summers, which Michigan often endures. It would probably be best to cut off all seed capsules before they mature, since those pods can shoot their seeds as far as 20 feet away and an animal foraging for something else could mistakenly eat them. Furthermore, some people are allergic to the plant’s sap. It is best to wear protective gloves if you tend to suffer from skin irritations. While castor beans love full sun and are very drought resistant, regular watering insures the healthiest growth and leafing out. You might consider planting bean seeds in a large movable container, but nothing smaller than a half whiskey barrel size. That way you can sow your seeds indoors 6 to 8 weeks before the last frost date, providing warmth and full sun (or bright light) so the seedlings have plenty of room to grow. Next, thin seedlings to only a few, especially if you intend to keep them in the container. If castor bean roots become confined, they stop growing and start blooming. You might search out one of the deep purple leaf varieties for added interest and color.

Filed Under: Ask MG

Seeking a red-leaved shrub

November 28, 2010   •   

I am looking for a shrub, other than green, for the front of my house. Preferably, I would like a purple or red color during the spring, summer and fall. I don’t want barberry. Can you recommend anything? What about purpleleaf sand cherry? I need something that doesn’t get too big because it will be at the corner of my house (2 to 3 feet away from the house).

There is a short list of shrubs and small trees that suit your needs. However the first concern before making your selection would be assuring that the plant is properly sited. You mentioned that you would like to plant it 2 to 3 feet from your house. This is generally way too close. The absolute minimum distance from your home should be 3 feet, and if there’s an overhang, even further. Planting too close is not only a hindrance for both home and garden maintenance, but also your home will, because of grading and height, not allow rain to reach the plants roots. That said here is the list. Note that these all will color their best in full sun.

Smokebush (Cotinus coggygria) – 15 by 15 feet. ‘Royal Purple’ and ‘Velvet Cloak’ are two good purple varieties. Smoky, cloud-like panicles of pinkish flowers in June. Smokebush can be kept to a smaller size by hard pruning in early spring, thus sacrificing that season’s bloom. Well-drained soil, full sun.

Purpleleaf sand cherry (Prunus x cistena) – Can grow to 10 feet, but is usually pruned or hedged. A respectable landscape plant when a dark purple, almost black leaf is desired. However, many chewing insects find the leaves just as appealing. Average to well-drained soil, full sun.

Ninebark (Physocarpus opulifolius ‘Diablo’) – ‘Diablo’ has deep burgundy leaves and attractive pinkish-white, button-like blooms in summer. It’s a quick grower to roughly 8 by 8 feet, however it may also be hard pruned in early spring to maintain a desired size. Well-drained site, full sun. It will take some shade but will color best in full sun.

Weigela (Weigela florida ‘Wine and Roses’) – Compact shrub, 4 to 5 feet high and wide. The leaves are a dark burgundy to a brownish purple with bright rose-pink flowers in June, then sporadically through summer. Can be lightly pruned after the June flush to maintain its rounded shape. Average to well-drained soils in full sun.

Redleaf rose (Rosa glauca) – This species rose has bluish to red-mauve foliage (resistant to blackspot), single, bright pink flowers in early summer and clusters of scarlet hips in autumn. This is a vase-shaped rose growing to about 6 feet by 6 feet. Average moisture needs, full sun.

Cutleaf Japanese maple (Acer palmatum var. dissectum) – Very slow-growing, small mounded trees ranging from 2 by 2 feet to 12 by 12 feet (depending on the variety). ’Crimson Queen,’ ‘Garnet,’ ‘Red Dragon’ and many more red-leaved varieties available. Moist, highly organic, well-drained soils in light shade to full sun.

European beech (Fagus sylvatica ‘Purpurea Pendula’) – If there is no overhang. A very slow-growing, weeping, purple, irregularly-shaped tree. Grows to about 10 feet, however can be kept smaller with thoughtful pruning. Moist, well drained soils in full to part sun.

Filed Under: Ask MG

Techniques for making soil more acidic

November 27, 2010   •   

I would like advice on how to lower my soil pH level. I used a home test kit and found my soil pH to be around 7. I have planted lots of evergreen seedlings and would like to lower my soil pH to around 5.5 to 6. Do you have any recommendations?

A home pH test is a good start. It has given an indication that alteration to the soil for optimal health of your plants may be needed. An appropriate next step would be to contact your County MSU Extension office and obtain a soil test kit. Collect the samples and send in the soil for a complete test.

The soil test done by Michigan State University will include much more than just pH. The test results will show the type of soil (clay, loam, or sand) and analysis of the micro and macro nutrients. If, as a part of testing, you tell them what you want to grow, they will make specific recommendations as to the proper type and quantity of material that should be used to amend the soil.

Be sure to evaluate where and how these plants will be situated in the garden. If these evergreen seedlings are to be used as foundation plantings near a house, the soil amendments may need to continue over a more extended period of time than if they are to be planted away from any structure. Also look into how many plants will be contained within how large an area. If this is a small foundation planting, you can simply use a readily available acidifier formulated for evergreens according to package directions.

Filed Under: Ask MG

Are lilacs and rose of Sharon compatible plants?

November 25, 2010   •   

We would like to interplant lilacs and rose of Sharon as a sight barrier along a property line (extended blooming is the goal of the combination). What are your recommendations? Are the plants compatible?

Lilacs (Syringa) and rose of Sharon (Hibiscus syriacus) have the same site requirements: full sun and fertile, moist and well-drained soil. Both will tolerate light shade. This is an interesting combination as a shrub hedge in the landscape as they are both shrubs that were used in Midwestern “yards” at the turn of the century and have continued to be part of the Midwestern landscape since the earliest communities were built. Both can be formidable shrubs and should be planted away from the house. You may have noticed how they were often planted in the outer corners of rural, then city and later in suburban yards, or as borders, often in front of hurricane fences. They have also been used as foundation plantings but that is not where they show their beauty best.

The height of the lilac ranges from 6 to 18 feet with a spread of 4 to 15 feet, depending upon the cultivars chosen. The rose of Sharon has a height of 8 to 12 feet and a spread of 6 to 10 feet. We welcome spring with the lilac’s profuse and fragrant lavender, pink, or white blossoms in May and June. When they are finished blooming, the foliage is medium to deep green on arching or upright mounded branches.

The rose of Sharon is the other bookend of the spring-summer season, showing off its big, colorful blossoms in the heat of the summer and still blooming when the children go back to school. The big, bold flowers of the rose of Sharon come in white, pink, lavender, violet or blue and can be flat, single blooms to carnation-like doubles to the newer anemone type that has a single flower with a lacy center. During the summer, when not in bloom, the foliage is dark and dense with three distinct lobes.

Both plants have proven that they are hardy, rugged and versatile in the Midwestern landscape. The common lilac is known to have problems with mildew and can become leggy and open at the base, but there are some cultivars such as Syringa meyeri ‘Palibin’ that are less troublesome. Think about throwing an early-blooming forsythia and mid-season bloomer like a spirea into the combination and you will have continuous color.

Filed Under: Ask MG

Older gardeners reap healthy benefits

November 24, 2010   •   

We are approaching the new year and the resolutions that come along with it. Maybe that exercise you have been promising for years can be found in the garden? Consider this story today from UPI:

A Dutch researcher says gardeners of all ages reap healthy rewards’ besides produce, it improves health and well-being in the elderly.

Read the full story here.

Filed Under: Clippings

Irregular leaves on redbud

November 21, 2010   •   

When the leaves came out on my redbud tree this spring, half the tree had normal-sized leaves that sprouted at the normal time. The other half had smaller-sized leaves that came out at a slower pace. The 2 halves remained this way throughout the summer, although the half with the normal leaves is now heavy with seed pods. The tree shows no signs of disease. It is treated by a tree service 4 times from spring to fall for various things. The tree is several years old, has western exposure and is watered by the yard sprinkler system. I put a slow drip water hose at the base a few times in September. Some of the roots are at soil level but are covered with mulch. I haven’t had the soil tested to know its condition. How can I keep this tree healthy so that it comes back all normal next year?

The symptoms you have described lead me to believe that the problem lies in your redbud’s (Cercis canadensis) reduced ability to take up needed water and nutrients that sustain good growth. Trees or portions of trees can become deficient in moisture and nutrients for a variety of reasons. These include a lack of soil moisture, compacted soils, injured or diseased roots that reduce water uptake, and injured or diseased trunk and branches that restrict water movement. Your tree service has physical contact with your tree several times a year and should be aware and monitoring its unhealthy symptoms. Check with them to ensure they are taking steps to promote a healthy outcome. Ask them about their spray schedule for your tree and what their treatment objectives are. Being an active participant will enable you to maintain a healthy environment for your plants.

Filed Under: Ask MG

  • « Previous Page
  • 1
  • …
  • 15
  • 16
  • 17
  • 18
  • 19
  • …
  • 43
  • Next Page »

Copyright 1996-2025 Michigan Gardener. All rights reserved.