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PLEASE NOTE: In the autumn of 1995, we hatched the idea for a free, local gardening publication. The following spring, we published the first issue of Michigan Gardener magazine. Advertisers, readers, and distribution sites embraced our vision. Thus began an exciting journey of helping our local gardening community grow and prosper.
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Archive for the mulch tag

Mulch volcanoes are harmful to trees—here’s why.

April 18, 2023   •   Leave a Comment

by Steve Turner

Mulching is one of the best things you can do for your plants if it is done right, but too much or improperly installed mulch can be a real problem.

The problem

The common practice of mounding mulch against the trunk has proven to be a fatal one for many trees. These often seen “mulch volcanoes” are perfect circles 8 to 12 inches thick (or more) piled against the trunk. They are actually creating more problems than they are solving.

What compounds the problem is that many of these trees are on commercial properties under professional care, and this has helped create the false impression that this is the proper way to mulch trees. Homeowners see this and imitate the practice on their own trees. The neat, clean appearance it gives a landscape is appealing to many. Actually, I have had several customers over the years ask me if there is a mold they can buy to make these volcanoes on their own trees! So in our quest for a beautiful landscape, we are unknowingly sacrificing the long-term health of the trees.

LEFT: Mounding mulch against the trunk of a tree can create problems, including wounds, decay, and girdling roots. RIGHT: Mulch should be placed in a ring around the tree, with the center around the trunk empty, like a wide doughnut.
LEFT: Mounding mulch against the trunk of a tree can create problems, including wounds, decay, and girdling roots. RIGHT: Mulch should be placed in a ring around the tree, with the center around the trunk empty, like a wide doughnut.

How does it harm trees?

The bark on the roots of a tree is much different than the bark on its trunk or branches. It is able to tolerate moisture as well as the lower oxygen levels in the soil. The aboveground portion of the tree, which starts at the root flares, has bark that contains tiny openings which are used to release gases and toxins from its system. On plants such as cherry trees or forsythias, these sites (called lenticels) are easily seen as tiny white dots or dashes on the bark. Because of this important function, trees can’t tolerate soil or mulch placed above its root flares. The lack of air and the presence of excess moisture prevents natural respiration from the bark and causes a build up of gases and toxins in the bark tissue.

The damage

If soil or mulch disrupts the respiration of the bark, the tree will usually respond in one of two ways. On thin-barked, young trees or species with naturally thin bark, like beech or linden, this disruption causes cankers (wounds) on the trunk. These appear as areas of dead tissue and provide an opportunity for decay to enter the tree. Other species will react by sending out additional roots from the trunk. These roots often end up circling around the trunk and become girdling roots in the future. Researchers are finding out that trees with girdling roots and excess soil and mulch build-up are much more prone to snapping off at the base in wind and ice storms. The longer the problem exists, the more damage occurs, and the chances of correcting it decrease.

Note that not all trees will respond in the same way—species, age, and health all need to be considered when trying to evaluate the effects of past damage. Most willow trees, for example, are very adaptable to a change of grade and often will show no problems at all.

Can the problem be fixed?

If caught soon enough, it can be corrected and tree will recover. However, upon root crown inspection, if it is found that large cankers have formed and decay is present, or if the tree has developed extensive girdling roots, it might be wiser to remove and replace the tree than attempt to save it. During the root crown inspection, arborists use a high pressure air device called an “air spade” to safely remove the excess soil and mulch without damaging the root system. Once the soil is removed, there is a clear view of the buried trunk and roots. Then the damage can be evaluated, and a decision made as to which roots to leave and which can be safely removed. It is very important not to remove too much too soon or the tree will be shocked. Sometimes the work will have to be done in stages over a couple years.

Proper mulching

While it is common to see 4 to 6 inches of mulch around a tree, this is usually too much. I would suggest 2 to 3 inches placed in a ring around the tree with the center around the trunk empty, like a doughnut. How wide to make the ring is up to you, but the bigger the better. Trees don’t like to compete with lawns for nutrients and water, and the more mulched area you can give them, the better off they will be. Mulched trees have fewer problems than trees growing in lawns. Even a small, 2- to 3-foot ring can make a big difference. The mulch creates a more natural growing environment with its organic material breaking down and supporting vital soil microbes. Other benefits include increased moisture retention and cooler soil temperatures, both of which favor optimal root growth.

If done properly, mulch is a great asset to your landscape and aids your trees during summer drought periods by maintaining soil moisture. It also helps insulate the roots during the winter months, which allows them to remain active longer through the seasons.

Steve Turner, Certified Arborist, is from Arboricultural Services (248-259-8420).

RELATED: Janet’s Journal – How to improve your clay soil

ELSEWHERE: Mulch overload!

Filed Under: Tree Tips Tagged With: mulch, mulch volcanoes, mulching, trees

Will adding mulch increase the soil depth of a bed?

January 25, 2022   •   Leave a Comment

If I keep adding mulch to my garden beds, will it not eventually increase the soil depth in that bed? And if it does, what happens to all the surface roots if I remove the mulch (soil)?

Adding about 2 inches of mulch to our garden beds prevents moisture loss, improves the soil condition, and prevents weeds from germinating. Natural wood mulch, composed of fine wood chips, ground up leaves and twigs, encourages worms and microorganisms to break down the material into nutrients which plants can absorb through their roots. This relationship between the soil organisms, decomposing organic material and plants creates a self-sufficient ecosystem if we, as the caregivers, don’t ruin it.

When you clean your garden beds in spring, lightly cultivate the surface material into the soil bed. How much light and water a particular bed gets can speed up or slow down the composting of the mulch. Some beds may need an inch of new mulch each year around mid-June or when temperatures heat up. Other beds may be slower and may only need additional material every other year. Application is not an auto-pilot garden chore.

Do not apply more than what is recommended. More is not better for preventing moisture loss or weeds. Thriving plants have deep roots in the soil rather than roots close to the surface. Overloading on mulch gives the plant a false sense of where the real soil is and can keep the hair-like roots away from microorganism activity. 

Related: How to improve your clay soil

Filed Under: Ask MG Tagged With: adding mulch, decomposition, mulch, wood mulch

Can rabbit manure be used as mulch around plants?

March 11, 2021   •   Leave a Comment

We have a pet house rabbit that is litter trained. Can the manure and litter (made from recycled newsprint) be used as mulch in a perennial bed or around trees and shrubs?

This sounds like a gold mine since rabbits are vegetarians. But it comes with significant cautions. Rabbit manure is higher in nitrogen than even chicken manure. It also contains phosphorus. Nitrogen is great for leaf production. The phosphorus is good for fruit and flower production. So consider exactly what you will be enhancing with its application. Average N-P-K (nitrogen-phosphorus-potassium) analysis of composted rabbit manure is 2-1-0.8, which is relatively low compared to other commercial products. In order for the manure to be useful, it must be hot composted, preferably for a year, to reduce the probability of transmitting any pathogens lurking in the litter. A hot compost pile should measure at least 150 degrees in temperature.

Composting the litter changes the material into a form plants can better use. It also allows odors to dissipate. After the year-long composting, it should be applied to the soil in late fall and worked in. Preferably, it should not be used as mulch and never uncomposted, as the high level of nitrogen can actually burn and damage plants, even with the newsprint base. Since it has to be worked into the soil to be effective, you might find this easier with your perennial bed in fall than disturbing the roots of trees and shrubs.

Related: Bunny honey – Using rabbit manure as a fertilizer

Filed Under: Ask MG Tagged With: litter, manure, mulch, perennials, rabbit, shrubs

How much mulch is required to cover my garden?

April 29, 2011   •   

I want to cover a 12 foot by 25 foot area with 3 inches of mulch. How many yards should I get?
The first thing to decide is how deep you want your mulch, which you have determined to be 3 inches (or 1/4 foot). Then use this formula to calculate the cubic yards: (length x width x depth)/27. For your 12 x 25 foot area: 12 x 25 x .25 = 75. 75/27 = 2.77. So, you need 3 cubic yards. Of course, this formula will work for any material, such as topsoil, compost, mulch, etc.
Need to figure out how much mulch you need for your project? Try out the handy Michigan Gardener soil and much calculator.

Filed Under: Ask MG Tagged With: calculator, mulch, yards

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