Once again this year, my impatiens grew to about 24″ tall (they are in dappled shade). I fertilized occasionally with Bloom Builder, which has a higher proportion of phosphorous. The quality and quantity of the blooms were very good, but not quite as prolific as the low-growing types I have seen. Are there specific varieties of impatiens that are low-growing, and if so, what are some of the names? If not, what can I do to encourage lower, bushier growth?

Understand that the amount of shade will directly effect the height and bud count on all varieties of impatiens.

Since the sun is a natural growth retardant, plants tend to stay shorter and will have considerably more flower power. If you are dealing with heavier shade and desire shorter plants, try spacing impatiens further apart when planting next spring. Impatiens are natural spreaders, forming a low ground cover…but once they grow together the growth goes up instead of out. If you are used to a 6 inch spacing, try an 8 inch spacing to prolong the bushiness and control height for a longer period.

There are several shorter varieties of impatiens. Both the Super Elfin and Accent series are heavy bloomers, come in a wide assortment of colors, and stay shorter than other varieties.

Where do slugs inhabit during the day? I never see them when turning and working the soil in my garden, yet my hostas have the typical holes that slugs chew. Since they move so slowly, I wondered how far and from where they travel to feast on my plants.

Slugs have become a common pest in Michigan gardens. They are not insects, but rather members of the mollusk family, which is related to clams, oysters and octopuses. Slugs are similar to snails, but they have no visible shell. Their bodies require moisture and dry out quickly in the sun. For that reason, they hide during the day and come out to feed at night or during cloudy, rainy weather. Slugs move slowly, relying on a large foot for locomotion. They secrete a slimy mucus that eventually hardens behind them, leaving a visible trail.

Their hiding places include rocks, boards, leaves and other damp areas. They will use crevices and holes made by other creatures such as earthworms. As long as their resting place remains moist, they may travel the same route to their food source each night.

Slugs also need moist, shady areas to lay their eggs. Egg masses can hatch in 2-4 weeks or remain dormant for a very long time if dry conditions persist. They reach maturity in 5 months to 2 years. They feed on a wide variety of vegetation, but do have their preferences. As many gardeners know, hostas, with their dense canopy of foliage, are one of their favorites.

This spring, I planted climbing roses that are now weaving through a supporting trellis. I have read where the canes should be removed from the trellis, laid down, and mulched for winter protection. Is this necessary? (Besides the hassle, I am worried that I might break the canes when I untwine them from the trellis).  If it is necessary, what do people do with their climbing roses when they are a few years old and there are numerous, thick canes?

Climbing roses should be given some amount of winter protection in order to assure survival during Michigan winters. Climbing roses planted in open, exposed areas, especially those receiving northwest winter winds, should be treated as described in the question.

Removing the canes from the trellis, laying them down, and covering them with soil is a little extra work, but it is the best way to protect the rose and your investment. Climbing roses in less exposed areas can be protected by wrapping the canes with burlap and mounding soil over the crown of the plant.

Wait until the leaves have browned and the plant has gone dormant before initiating any winter protection measures. This is usually late November for our climate. Remove the winter protection prior to growth in the spring. Covering too early or leaving the rose covered too late in the spring can both harm the plant and reduce its chance of overwintering successfully.