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PLEASE NOTE: In the autumn of 1995, we hatched the idea for a free, local gardening publication. The following spring, we published the first issue of Michigan Gardener magazine. Advertisers, readers, and distribution sites embraced our vision. Thus began an exciting journey of helping our local gardening community grow and prosper.
After 27 years, nearly 200 issues published, and millions of copies printed, we have decided it is time to end the publication of our Print Magazine and E-Newsletter.

Keep summer memories with your own potpourri

October 2, 2009   •   

by Jean and Roxanne Riggs

When you have collected pine cones from the woods, shells from the beaches, bits and pieces of special and unique flora, or other natural materials from the outdoors, there is a wonderful way to display your treasures. We will show you how to make a beautiful potpourri that looks like and is lightly fragrant of the piney woods, shores, and footpaths—sure to bring back memories of summer.

Basic potpourri recipe

A basic recipe includes 1 quart of dried materials, 3 to 5 tablespoons of fixative, and 10 to 15 drops of fragrant or essential oil. Place everything in a glass jar with a lid and allow it to mellow for 3 or 4 weeks, while shaking or stirring it regularly. A potpourri is fragrant because its oils are evaporating, and as such, more oil will need to be added as necessary. More oils and fixatives will also be needed when more materials are added. When treated like this, the fragrance will go on for years, and so will the memories. For storage, keep the mixture in a glass jar with a closed lid. Do not use a metal container, as tin boxes corrode and might alter the fragrances.

A fixative is a material that is used to set or “fix” a fragrance and release it more slowly. The most common fixative in fragrances today is orris root. This dried root of the orris root iris (Iris x germanica var. florentina) is usually available from specialty shops as a powder or in small chunks. It can be grown in the garden and is a lovely pale blue iris, with slightly darker falls, that blooms in late May. If you grow your own, cut or grind it before it dries thoroughly since it becomes very woody and hard after it dries. It has a light violet fragrance. Another good fixative is calamus root, the dried root of Acorus calamus, a plant that grows wild in wetlands alongside the cattails. Other common fixatives include woody things like pine cones, cinnamon sticks, and small nuts and pods. Some of the more exotic items are tree resins like frankincense, myrrh, and benzoin. Musk, civet, and other scents from animal sources are not recommended.

The difference between fragrance oil and essential oil is that fragrance oils are made in a laboratory and essential oils come directly from plant material. We usually recommend essential oils if possible, but sometimes the expense is too great or they are not available, and fragrance oils then make good substitutes.

 

Potpourri materials list

You need to start your potpourri with good-scented dried materials like dry pine needles, dried mosses, and dried flowers and herbs. Add other things that are larger to add interest and more fragrances. We have assembled a list that we use to make our version:

Pine needles and pine cones. While the white pine is the state tree of Michigan, its cones are quite large and might need to be cut up to manageable sizes. The jack pine has pretty, medium-sized cones, and the needles are very fragrant. Smaller pine cones are easier to work into the recipe. The woody cones make good fixatives.

Acorns and other nuts. Small nuts are good additions, and also hold a fragrance well. They add lots of visual interest, and signify looking forward to the next growing season.

Sweet gum tree balls. These are the spiny-looking balls that you find under the sweet gum trees on many lawns and in some parks.

Linden or maple tree wings and seeds. The winged seeds make pretty additions to a potpourri. The wings are adaptations to help the tree disperse the seeds using the wind. Children like to toss them into the air and watch them come down spinning like propellers.

Rose hips and other flower seed pods. The rose hips are dark red, and add a citrus fragrance. Iris pods are brown, woody, and pretty. Bush clover dries tan and is nice. Some ferns have sterile fronds that add a new shape.

Dried mosses, dried lichens and mushrooms. All of these can be added and will add a little fragrance and a lot of interest.

Clam and snail shells, cleaned. At the lake shore, everyone picks up shells and other treasures, including Petoskey stones and little agates. All of these must be cleaned, especially the shells, to make sure you don’t add bad odors. These do not add fragrances, but they certainly are interesting. On these, you could write the date you found them with a permanent pen.

Dried flowers, dried herbs, sweet grass, and sweet fern. There are lots of flowers that grow freely and are not protected wildflowers, and they make good colorful accents. Tansy, white yarrow, goldenrod, roses, black-eyed Susan, Joe Pye weed, boneset, and many others are wonderful additions. Mint adds a nice fragrance and a pretty green color. Sweet grass grows in damp places and adds a wonderful vanilla fragrance. Sweet fern grows amongst the wild blueberries up north, and has a fragrance that is typical of the northern forests. Fragrance is a powerful reminder of many things, and sweet fern reminds us of warm summer days and northern woods better than most anything else.

Feathers and any other special goodies. These things do not add any fragrance, but are great additions for the memories.

Cedar leaves and chips. These add a good fragrance and additionally act as insect repellents.


The finished potpourri.

Making the potpourri

For each quart of materials that we use, we add about 15 drops of balsam fir or pine needle essential oil to about 5 tablespoons of orris root, and then add it to the mixture. We find that a few drops of cinnamon oil makes the pine fragrance more mellow, and that a few sticks of cinnamon as well as a few whole cloves can add enough spice to the fragrance to make it more interesting and give it some needed depth. You can make the aroma stronger or weaker depending on your own preferences by adding more or less oil.

Our relatives have a cottage near Lake Huron (one of the five Great Lakes, along northeastern Michigan) that they say smells musty after being closed for a period of time, and they use this potpourri when they lock it up for the season to keep it smelling fresher. You can add more things to it as more items are collected. You can give little gift packages of it to your friends or guests to help them remember their visit, which is made especially meaningful if they add something that they found too.

 Jean and Roxanne Riggs operated Sunshine Farm and Garden in Commerce Township, MI.

Filed Under: Thyme for Herbs

Plant Focus: Amsonia (blue star)

September 27, 2009   •   

Amsonia-blue-star-amsonia-HubrectiiPhotos by Wayside Gardens / www.waysidegardens.com
Amsonia hubrechtii
amsonia-HubrectiiAmsonia hubrechtiiby George Papadelis

September is too often considered a challenging month for perennial gardeners. Many of us believe mums are the only annual or perennial that provides interest in the fall. Nothing could be further from the truth. In sunny areas, try perennials like Sedum ‘Autumn Joy,’ hardy plumbago (Ceratostigma), boltonia, asters, blue mist spirea (Caryopteris), and ornamental grasses, just to name a few. In shady spots, try anemones, toad lilies (Tricyrtis), yellow wax bells (Kirengeshoma), hosta plantaginea, and fall-blooming crocus. And don’t forget about pansies. They are getting easier to find in the fall, and if planted then, they can bloom until Christmas or longer. Amsonia is yet another one of these late season performers whose color and durability make it a must for the fall garden.

Amsonia is rarely referred to by its common name “blue star.” Unlike most perennials, this one exhibits striking fall color that is more typical of many trees and shrubs. By late September, amsonia’s tight mound of olive-green, willow-like foliage takes on a brilliant yellow-gold color. This blends beautifully with other fall color, whether from mums or shrubs. Even before the fall show develops, these rounded mounds of fine foliage provide handsome forms and textures in the summer garden. Flowers too? Yes! In the spring, amsonia is covered with small, pale blue, star-shaped flowers, from which the common name is derived. Like many perennials, these only last a few weeks. It is the foliage of this plant which deserves recognition and more frequent use in the garden.

Amsonia-TabernaemontanaAmsonia tabernaemontanaAmsonia has one other rare quality. This eastern U.S. native thrives in heavy, moist soil. “Heavy, moist” means clay and many of us have plenty of it. Use organic soil amendments like compost and peat moss when planting, but some clay will make amsonia feel right at home. Blue star is also long-lived, so dividing or replacing it will rarely be necessary. Position the plant in sun or partial sun and let time do the rest. After one year in the garden, you have plants large enough to draw attention. Keep in mind amsonia’s broken stems release a milky sap that may cause skin irritation.

Two types of amsonia are readily available and vary only in leaf form. Willow leaf amsonia or blue star (Amsonia tabernaemontana) has wider leaves resembling those of a willow tree, while Arkansas blue star (Amsonia hubrichtii) has very narrow leaves. Naturally, the latter species produces foliage effects that are finer and lighter in texture. Both types grow 2 to 3 feet tall and have great fall color.

If big, bright flowers are all you need in your fall garden, mums are probably your best bet. On the other hand, amsonia provides tidy mounds of beautifully textured foliage followed by outstanding fall color for years and years. Try it with some of the previously mentioned fall performers for a late season show you’re sure to enjoy.

George Papadelis is the owner of Telly’s Greenhouse in Troy.


At a glance: Amsonia

Pronunciation: am-SO-nee-ah

Common name: Blue star

Plant type: Perennial

Plant size: 24-36” tall, 36” wide

Flower color: Pale blue, star-shaped

Flower size: 1” across

Bloom period: Late spring to early summer

Leaves: Green; 2-6” long; 1/2-1” wide or very fine, depending on variety

Light: Full to part sun

Soil: Only moderately fertile, moist soil; prefers some clay content; if soil is too fertile, plant may tend to flop 

Uses: Perennial border; use for its foliage texture, especially in the fall.

Companion plants: Sedum ‘Autumn Joy,’ ornamental grasses, boltonia, Russian sage, asters, blue mist spirea

Remarks: Fantastic golden yellow fall color. Long-lived perennial; frequent division is not necessary.

Filed Under: Plant Focus

Garden Snapshots: What to do with all these tomatoes?

September 21, 2009   •   

Jonathon Hofley/Michigan Gardener
The tomatoes are still coming despite their challenges this year. Have a suggestion on what to do with surplus tomatoes? Leave a comment with your favorite idea.

Filed Under: Garden Snapshots

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