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PLEASE NOTE: In the autumn of 1995, we hatched the idea for a free, local gardening publication. The following spring, we published the first issue of Michigan Gardener magazine. Advertisers, readers, and distribution sites embraced our vision. Thus began an exciting journey of helping our local gardening community grow and prosper.
After 27 years, nearly 200 issues published, and millions of copies printed, we have decided it is time to end the publication of our Print Magazine and E-Newsletter.

Plant Focus: Fern-leaf Bleeding Heart

October 20, 2009   •   

Fern-leaf-Bleeding-Heart-Dicentra-Luxuriantwww.waysidegardens.com
Dicentra ‘Luxuriant’
Fern-leaf-Bleeding-Heart-Dicentra-BacchanalK. Van Bourgondien / 800-437-7501
Dicentra ‘Bacchanal’
by George Papadelis

Fern-leaf bleeding heart boasts versatility, durability, and beauty. It differs from its cousin, old-fashioned bleeding heart (Dicentra spectabilis), in many ways. Old-fashioned bleeding heart can grow up to 4 feet tall and equally wide. The common form produces the classic white “heart” shaped flowers that “bleed” rosy red “drips” on either side of each flower. The blossoms emerge in spring and gracefully cascade from arching stems. Flowers last 6 or more weeks, but the plants usually go dormant by summer. They are therefore best planted in the rear of the border behind summer bloomers. In contrast, fern-leaf bleeding heart rarely grows over 15 inches, will bloom almost all summer long without going dormant, has handsome cut-leaf foliage, and has smaller “non-bleeding” flowers. These are available in a range of leaf and flower colors that provide gardeners with many choices for their shadier spots.

Fern-leaf bleeding heart is a North American native that can actually be divided into two very similar species. The western species, Dicentra formosa (western bleeding heart), occurs naturally from northern California to British Columbia while our eastern species, Dicentra eximia (fern-leaf or fringed bleeding heart), is found from New York to Georgia. Breeders in America and Europe have used these to develop several interesting varieties with flowers that range from white to pink to lavender to deep red. ‘Luxuriant’ is the most readily available variety and has cherry red flowers above 12- to 15-inch blue-green foliage. For an excellent white, try ‘Snowdrift’ or ‘Snowflakes’; both have blue-green leaves and grow 10 to 14 inches tall. For one of the deepest reds and almost silver-blue leaves, look for ‘Bacchanal’ at only 8 to 10 inches tall. Most of the newer varieties have beautiful foliage that is worth considering for any semi-shady site.

Fern-leaf bleeding hearts form slow-spreading clumps that require no maintenance all season long. They can tolerate the coldest of winters and are not too particular about soil type as long as it isn’t too heavy. They do, however, thrive in moist, fertile soil. Plants will tolerate full sun, but prefer a semi-shaded site. Too much shade, however, will discourage flowering, which typically lasts from spring until fall. Avoid positioning this plant where competition from tree roots will occur since the lack of water and nutrients can make bleeding hearts only last for a few years. To maintain the healthiest, longest-blooming plants, divide the crown every 3 or 4 years in early spring or late summer. When planting new divisions, take advantage of this opportunity to amend your soil with organic matter such as compost, manure, or aged pine bark. Once established, this disease- and insect-resistant plant will effortlessly flower for years without requiring staking, deadheading, or pruning.

The relatively small size of fern-leaf bleeding heart makes it ideal for the front of the shady garden. It can also be used nestled between boulders in your rock garden or planted among trillium and Jack-in-the-pulpits in your woodland garden. Its tidy, bluish foliage and long season of bloom combine to make it useful as an edging plant too. The blue-green ferny leaves are contrasted beautifully by the bold purple-red leaves of coral bells (Heuchera) or by the large gold leaves of Hosta ‘Daybreak.’ Plant fern-leaf bleeding heart with an ornamental grass for shade such as golden hakone grass (Hakonechloa macra ‘Aureola’). Its fine, wispy gold leaves against the ferny blue-green leaves of the bleeding heart would provide a long-lasting combination of different colors and textures.

George Papadelis is the owner of Telly’s Greenhouse in Troy, MI.


Fern-leaf-Bleeding-Heart-Dicentra-eximia-Snowdriftwww.whiteflowerfarm.com
Dicentra eximia ‘Snowdrift’
Fern-leaf-Bleeding-Heart-Dicentra-King-of-HeartsWalters Gardens
Dicentra ‘King of Hearts’
Fern-leaf-Bleeding-Heart-Dicentra-Snowdriftwww.whiteflowerfarm.com
Dicentra ‘Snowdrift’

At a glance: Fern-leaf Bleeding Heart

Botanical name: Dicentra eximia (dy-SEN-truh eks-IM-ee-uh)

Plant type: Perennial

Plant size: 10 to 15 inches tall and wide

Habit: Clump-forming mound

Hardiness: Zone 3

Flower color: Pink, deep pink, cherry red, deep red, white

Flower size: 1 inch long, narrow heart-shaped

Bloom period: Spring to fall

Leaf color: Blue-green, gray-green

Leaf size: 4-12 inches long, fern-like

Light: Partial shade

Soil: Well-drained, fertile, moist 

Uses: Front of the shade border; rock garden

Companion plants: Hostas (smaller, gold- and blue-leaved varieties), purple-leaved coral bells (Heucheras)

Remarks: Grown in the proper conditions, may self-seed in the garden. Divide every 3 to 4 years. Avoid dry soil areas in the summer.

Filed Under: Plant Focus

Michigan Gardener still growing 14 years later

October 19, 2009   •   

Jonathon and Eric HofleyCheck out the following story on Michigan Gardener published Sunday, October 18 in the Oakland Press.

 

Filed Under: MG in the News

Groundcovers to control erosion

October 8, 2009   •   

We have a ravine with native plants (trillium, trout lily, etc.), and we need to control erosion. What plants would you recommend? What about pachysandra? Will it overtake and kill the natives?

It sounds as though you would like your ravine to be naturalized with native plants based on your choice of wildflowers. There are many native plants that you can use for erosion control.

The dwarf crested iris (Iris cristata) is a tiny lavender iris that will spread in high open shade and blends well with wildflowers. Cleft phlox (Phlox bifida) has star-like, lavender-blue flowers in the summer and is good in sandy, well-drained soil as an accent groundcover. Fragrant sumac (Rhus aromatica) is a shrub-type groundcover that suckers heavily and prefers sun, but will tolerate shade. It has small, yellow flowers in the spring, followed by clusters of hairy red berries that persist throughout the winter. It does get taller than traditional groundcovers; 2 to 6 feet. ‘Gro-low’ is a new cultivar of sumac that only grows to 2 feet.

There are some prairie grasses that will bind the soil tightly in almost any type of planting environment. These include prairie cord grass (Spartina pectinata), switch grass (Panicum virgatum), sweet grass (Hierochloe odorata) and big bluestem (Andropogon gerardii). Small sedges like Carex pensylvanica make excellent groundcovers under trees, especially oaks.

When deciding to mix and match, it is important to study the growth habits of the plants you are using, as some can be so aggressive that they will overrun nearly all of the other plantings. The rhizomatous natives such as Canada anemone (Anemone canadensis) and prairie cord grass are very effective erosion controllers but need room to run.

Japanese pachysandra (Pachysandra terminalis) is the typically used landscape groundcover, but there is a native pachysandra, Allegheny spurge (Pachysandra procumbens) that is really more interesting. It is a little taller, 6 to 12 inches, with scalloped leaves that are gray-green and become mottled with age. It has fragrant pink-white flowers that look like spiky bottlebrushes. It grows from a thin, white creeping rhizome with prominent eyes for the next year’s growth. It is slower growing than the Japanese pachysandra.

Filed Under: Ask MG

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