I have crabapple, cherry, and mulberry trees. When is the best time to cut off low-hanging, big branches? Also, can I straighten an established tree?

Prune your crabapple in fall to early spring. This is the dormancy period when major limb removal causes the least bleeding. Mulberries are also mid-winter prune candidates. Even in full dormancy, older trees may still bleed profusely. Cherries, either sweet or sour varieties, should not be pruned in winter. They are susceptible to silver-leaf disease. Pruning must be delayed until bud-burst in spring. However, if a branch is dead, diseased or damaged, it should be removed as soon as you notice it. This holds true for the crabs and mulberry as well. If you are merely pruning for convenience or aesthetics, wait until the appropriate time.

As for straightening an established tree, you need to determine why it is crooked. Are there prevailing winds, which have caused the trunk to lean? Was it improperly staked as a sapling? Is it seeking sunlight from under the canopy of an overshadowing tree? You can open up the canopy of an adjacent tree if shade is the cause. You can also prune the canopy of your leaning tree so that it appears more in proportion to itself. There are methods for forcing branches to grow in another direction. I would consult a professional arborist before attempting this on your own.

I have grubs in my lawn and flower beds. I know how to treat my lawn but I’m not sure what to do about the flower beds.

White grubs are the larvae of various scarab (or chafer) beetles, including Japanese beetles, June, and May beetles. The larvae overwinter in the soil and pupate in early spring, with adults emerging in late spring to early summer. Michigan had a long, cool spring. This stalled the emergence of the adult beetles, which are currently devouring the landscape. The adult beetles are only susceptible to repeat insecticide applications. If you find a small infestation, hand-picking and dropping them into soapy water will suffice. However, adults are present through the entire growing season. It is important to be vigilant so adult beetles do not lay more eggs in the soil. The eggs are invulnerable. The grub larvae are susceptible to several kinds of granular insecticide sold specifically for lawn treatments for grub control. You can work this granular formulation into your flower beds as well. Remember, grubs feast on roots, which means perennials and ornamental shrubs are also on the menu, along with your lawn. As you work the soil in your flower beds, you can destroy grubs and pupas as you find them. That’s one less procreating eating machine in the landscape.

I am moving to a new house that is located on a freshwater lake. The backyard has three different levels that are built like stairs; they are large areas of land. What plants would be best suited for this environment, and which ones should I refrain from planting?

Your recognition of the impact on the lake is admirable. The sections you describe are known as bulwarks and are intended to prevent erosion of land into the lake. First and foremost, avoid the use of fertilizers and pesticides. Since they pass through the soil and are so close to the lake, they enter almost immediately. Just a couple of the effects are increased algae growth and killed fish. To avoid having to use fertilizers, stick with native plants (because they are native, they require little or no fertilizer to thrive), especially in the first three zones from the water’s edge to your lawn zone. In addition, plants (rather than lawn) will absorb fertilizer runoff before it hits the lake. If the lawn extends all the way out to the lake, remove at least 10 to 12 feet of lawn and replace it with native trees, ground cover, shrubs, ferns and wildflowers. The first few feet from the waterline needs to be water-loving plants (sedges, lady fern, etc.). The next 10 feet will require plants that prefer moist soil, but not wet. Finally, the last zone extends to the lawn. A variety of shade trees is important for this area. All of this does not mean you must create a barrier of plants that block your access or view; just try to use a combination that will allow continued viability of the lake and an enjoyable view for you.