Is there any way to sterilize poplar trees so that they don’t produce those awful sticky pods or the white floating fuzzies? This was the worst year and clean up takes forever.

No, there isn’t. The best recommendation is to remove the tree and start over. The Eastern cottonwood (Populus deltoides) has little residential landscape value due to its messy habits and weed-like seedlings. Its soft, weak wood easily splits and breaks in storms. There are several cottonless (male) varieties available. But with the abundance of so many preferred tree species for homeowner use, it seems pointless to replant with a male version of an essentially scrap tree. If you remove your offensive tenant, consider the maple family for replacements. Avoid the quick-growing, overused silver maple that rivals the cottonwood in susceptibility to insect pests, diseases and weak wood. Also consider the European beech (Fagus sylvatica), which has many excellent cultivars available.

Some of the blossoms on my tomato plants are disappearing. The plants are too tall to be affected by rodents and there are no signs of insects. Could the blossoms just be dropping off? Any ideas or recommendations?

Your observations and process of elimination are very good. Tomato blossoms can fall off prematurely when it is very cool or very hot, or the soil is dry. Michigan’s summer so far has been unseasonably cool, but with plenty of moisture.

Your solution is to improve growing conditions by “turning up the heat.” When temperatures continue to be cool, mulch with black plastic to warm up the soil. You can pair that with wrapping clear plastic on stakes around the plant to form a mini-greenhouse. Keep water consistent, watering when the soil is dry 1 to 2 inches beneath the surface.

We were given a hydrangea plant at the end of April. It bloomed beautifully for 1 to 2 months inside. I cut it back when all the blooms were spent. Then I put it outside and the green leaves just grew and grew, but I don’t see any new blooms coming on. Do you think it will bloom again this season? What should I do with it once frost comes?

Generally, “gift” hydrangeas are the stunning pink or blue-blossomed bigleaf hydrangea (Hydrangea macrophylla). These are often kept as houseplants in Michigan because they are not hardy to our zone 5. As container plants, they can be transplanted into the ground in zones 6 to 9, but only if they are well-sited in moist, well-drained soil heavily amended with peat moss and leaf mold. Protected partial shade is also very important.

Not only are hydrangeas particular about location and conditions, each species is picky about pruning. Cutting it back after the blooms were spent is appropriate for bigleaf hydrangea. The plant produces flowers from buds formed on the previous season’s growth. It does not typically bloom again this season. However, as you’ve experienced, you will get additional greenery.

Since this is more of a houseplant, you should bring it indoors for protection before temperatures drop and frost is possible. Be careful about placing the plant too close to heat or air conditioning vents, or windows with direct sun. As a container plant, you will need to keep the soil acidic through the use of water-soluble fertilizers, in addition to maintaining an appropriate soil medium. If you wish to encourage one color or the other for next year, you will need to check the pH of the soil on a regular basis. A pH of 5.0 to 5.5 will satisfactorily produce blue flowers while a pH of 6.0 to 6.5 will cause pink coloration.