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PLEASE NOTE: In the autumn of 1995, we hatched the idea for a free, local gardening publication. The following spring, we published the first issue of Michigan Gardener magazine. Advertisers, readers, and distribution sites embraced our vision. Thus began an exciting journey of helping our local gardening community grow and prosper.
After 27 years, nearly 200 issues published, and millions of copies printed, we have decided it is time to end the publication of our Print Magazine and E-Newsletter.

Cultivating Murphy’s Law

September 30, 2011   •   

My friend Curt grew up on a “hard scrabble” farm in Kentucky early in the last century, an inquisitive boy who enjoyed the company of older farmers who repaid the interest by teaching him many old and secret ways. Agricultural college and then a degree and career in engineering put a fine edge on all he’d learned. When he said to me one day late in his life, “Janet, I think I’ve figured it out,” I took my notebook from my pocket in anticipation of revelation. What he said, in proof of a key tenet of Murphology known as Groya’s Law, was “I have looked and studied all these years and now I know I am never going to have any good idea what’s going on in this garden!” by Janet Macunovich
Photographs by Steven Nikkila

30 years ago, writer Arthur Bloch presented us with Murphy’s Law and a collection of other undeniable ironies. I’m basically an optimist and an opportunist, even a follower of philosophies such as “open your mind and the universe will provide.” Yet I found myself smiling wryly and even agreeing with what Bloch assembled to advance that basic tenet, “If anything can go wrong, it will.”

Over the years bits from that book would come back to me as I gardened. Situations I encountered while digging, planting or designing would strike me as spin-offs from Murphy’s Law and I would think, “There should be Murphy’s Laws of Gardening.”

Once you embrace Corollary #2 of Murphy’s Law (Everything takes longer than you think it will) you know you should never have mulch dumped in front of the garage door unless you’re willing to park on the street for days and even weeks. Recently I reacquainted myself with Bloch’s collection, in Murphy’s Law: The 26th Anniversary Edition (Penguin Group, 2003). I saw that although I recognized the proofs of Murphy’s Law I’d been cultivating, many other dictums in that book were also well established in my gardens. It made me laugh—which is a good thing to do on a day when Murphy’s Law pops up in your garden.

Despite the aggravation they can cause, there’s much to be learned from Murphy’s Law situations. Here’s a redtwig dogwood we dug from the bed that had been first covered with rock and then, when that mulch became unsightly, buried under a second layer of plastic and rock. If I hadn’t seen it I wouldn’t have imagined what tenacity a shrub can have. This one was growing a whole new root system above its original root ball. The lower roots were atrophying, oxygen starved at the unnatural depth. The new roots were more lively, growing into the organic debris that had accumulated in the uppermost layer of rock. Here are some of those rules and observations from Bloch’s compilation, with examples of where I’ve found them lurking in the garden. Perhaps given these connections, you won’t feel frustrated or critical of yourself the next time you encounter such circumstances. You can shrug off the effects and join me in saying, “Ah well, there’s nothing to be done. It’s all Murphy’s Law!”

Murphy’s Law and its first three corollaries

The Law: If anything can go wrong, it will. Its first corollary: Nothing is as easy as it looks.

One busy spring, I agreed to re-do a condominium entrance bed. It seemed a straightforward job—remove a layer of misbegotten egg rock and plastic, improve the soil and then plant flowers.

Various earlier projects ran long, pushing this make-over into Memorial Day weekend. Hoping to finish the work yet still have a bit of holiday time, we arrived at dawn to begin.

Murphy got there first. We saw the proof after we removed two truckloads of rock and peeled back the underlying plastic. Lying there was Corollary #1 in the form of an additional layer of egg rock and plastic.

Which simultaneously proved Corollary #2: Everything takes longer than you think it will. This bed renovation was going to go way over estimate.

With elegant simplicity, the situation moved right along to Corollary #3: Whenever you set out to do something, something else must be done first. What that meant in this case was that because the landfill closed early on holiday weekends, anything dug after noon this day was going to remain in my truck to complicate the beginning of my next project.

One of the worst things man can do to a tree is to stack mulch against the trunk. Moisture build-up and fungus join forces to rot the bark and destroy first the bark and then the vital cambium layer, maiming or killing the tree. The effect is the same whether that tree is a sapling or a forest giant. So why do we do it? Because someone working in a public place did it and others followed suit!New solution—new problem

Sometimes proofs take longer to develop. Such was the case the first time I recognized the garden variety of Corollary #4: Every solution breeds new problems.

It began one fall when I decided to repel bulb-digging squirrels with predator urine. At the garden center I considered my choices—fox, coyote or bobcat urine. Knowing there was a fox that visited the target area regularly, it seemed unlikely the local squirrels would find fox scent repulsive. At the other end of the scale, bobcat urine seemed like overkill. Thus I bought and used the coyote product.

That night, strange warbling noises woke the owners of those urine-marked gardens. Through the window they saw the fox, pacing back and forth along the marked beds, keening and yodeling.

For years we watched squirrels like this dig and eat our bulbs. Yet what we did to solve that problem led to greater headaches, proving the statement: Every solution breeds new problems (Murphy’s Law Corollary #4).Curious about the fox’s behavior, I cracked my books and came across reports that foxes will not share territory with coyotes. No wonder our fox was upset. He thought a coyote had moved in.

The true level of upset wasn’t apparent until late the next summer. Then, I’d been dealing with two first-ever situations for that garden—a plague of voles and an influx of rabbits. As I baited a live trap for rabbit, I mused “Why now?”

An answer leapt full blown into my head, the sum of a year’s worth of not-seeing.

“Have you seen the fox at all this year?” I began asking everyone who watched that garden. As more voices tolled the negative, my conviction grew more firm: With that bulb-protecting coyote urine we had repelled our resident rodent- and rabbit-control agent.

Not nice to fool Mother Nature

I thought I’d learned all I needed to learn from this episode but another lesson remained. Slow to germinate but full of certainty, Corollary #5 of Murphy’s Law completed the picture: Mother Nature is a bitch.

Snider’s Law: Nothing can be done in one trip.When a new fox finally filled our vacancy several years later, we called all the neighbors to come see his tracks across a late spring snow. Maybe if we hadn’t shared the news the good feeling would have lasted longer. But just a few weeks later the reports began to add up. This new fox was one that preferred raiding garbage cans to earning an honest living nabbing voles and rabbits.

An assortment of other laws and their gardening proofs

Let’s see if you can smile too, about what goes wrong in your garden. Think about these other laws, precepts and axioms as they relate to garden snafus.

Leahy’s Law states: If something is done wrong often enough, it becomes right. This is the complete and only explanation for volcano mulching.

Sodd’s Second Law is: Sooner or later, the worst possible set of circumstances is bound to occur. Sodd grins “Gotcha!” when you find yourself volunteered to a committee to landscape the church front entry and the majority of the other volunteers have never grown anything except opinions. And when you learn the soil in the entry area is not only brick hard but full of buried wires and pipes. And the budget for plants is suitable only for seeds. And the pastor informs you that the Sunday School classes should be allowed to help in planting.

Those who know and heed the “Unspeakable Law” know that saying, “Aren’t those hawthorn berries gorgeous? I hope they last the winter!” is to invite a flock of cedar waxwings to descend and strip the tree the next day.Consider Commoner’s Law of Ecology: Nothing ever goes away. This is not just law but religion among members of the species Canada thistle, scouring rush and bindweed.

Help yourself by helping others recognize the Unspeakable Law: As soon as you mention something, if it’s good, it goes away. If it’s bad, it happens. Watch and listen for this before your next backyard party. Keep a gag at hand, ready for use when an uninitiated person looks out over your garden and unwittingly begins the charm that calls this law into play, “Oh, how pretty! People will love those tall blue flowers! I hope it doesn’t rain.”

At work one day measuring a property for design, I stumbled upon a haphazard jumble of pots in a shrub-choked ravine. These pots still contained potting soil, still sported tags bearing the names of desirable exotics, and in some cases still held plant remnants. Peering up toward the house through bramble branches I saw this pile was an easy sidearm toss away from the deck and recognized its existence as proof of Fahnstock’s rule for failure: If at first you don’t succeed, destroy all evidence that you tried.

Likewise, those in the know are ready to shush the person who looks at your perfectly matched and says, “Oh, those look great together. You’re so lucky you don’t have rabbits and groundhogs eating your asters like I do.” Irene’s Law is: There is no right way to do the wrong thing. It’s so simple that any transgressions can be dumbfounding. Such was the case when a man who had sold his house to my friend Sue returned the next year at “just the right time” to give her a pruning lesson. His intent: to be sure she knew the right way to prune the flowering dogwood to maintain its perfectly round lollipop figure.

Cooke’s Law (It is always hard to notice what isn’t there) is actually pretty handy: I’ve seen it employed when two parties have joint ownership of an overplanted landscape or crowded woodlot. One party embraces the premise “something has to go” while the other stands on vague principle in objection to any removals. If the party in favor of reduction recognizes the applicability of this law, he or she might look for an opportunity in the form of the other party’s next business trip or out-of-town retreat. Should tree cutters or landscapers come then, it may be months before the objector even notices any change.

Philo’s Law has comforted me when I find myself dealing with people who don’t “get it.” It is: To learn from your mistakes you must first realize that you are making mistakes. Most recently, it came to mind as I exchanged emails with a gardener who had asked, “What can I use to get rid of powdery mildew? I’ve lived here about twelve years. I spray the garden every week with an insecticide-fungicide-fertilizer mix, but I can’t seem to beat the mildew.”

Sidebar: Rainy day reading

  • Ready to solo as a lawyer of Murphology? On a day when it rains and you’re a bit of weary of plant catalogs, resurrect this magazine. Find your own examples of these last few laws in your garden, and smile.
  • Barber’s Rule: Anything worth doing is worth doing to excess.
  • Snider’s Law: Nothing can be done in one trip.
  • Ducharme’s Precept: Opportunity always knocks at the least opportune moment.
  • Jong’s Law: Advice is what we ask for when we already know the answer but wish we didn’t.
  • The Principle of Design Inertia: Any change looks terrible at first.
  • Beach’s Law: No two identical parts are alike.
  • Imbesi’s Law of the Conservation of Filth: In order for something to become clean, something else must become dirty.
  • Milliken’s Maxim: Insanity is doing the same thing the same way and expecting different results.
  • Melnick’s Law: If at first you do succeed, try not to look too astonished.
  • Groya’s Law of Epistemology: What we learn after we know it all is what counts.

Janet Macunovich is a professional gardener and author of “Designing Your Gardens and Landscape” and “Caring for Perennials.” Read more from Janet in her newsletter available by writing to WhatsComingUp@gmail.com.

Filed Under: Janet’s Journal

How to properly handle construction projects near established trees

September 28, 2011   •   

Post-construction damage to mature trees is common, whether it is from a new home, new addition, or smaller projects like patios, driveways and even irrigation systems. They all can impact the health of mature trees by disturbing or damaging their root systems, as a result of digging and compacting the soil around them.

The important thing to remember with mature trees is that rarely will the signs of damage show up immediately after it has happened, unless it is very severe. It can take years to surface, and when it does, people don’t often associate it with the real cause. I have seen old oaks that have been holding on for fifteen or twenty years after the damage was done.

The reason for this is that large trees have tremendous ability to store food for tough times such as drought or early frost damage to new leaves. When this occurs the tree will turn to its reserves for the food it needs. If a tree’s root system is damaged, the tree must turn to those same reserves to survive until it can repair and replace the damaged roots to get nutrient and water uptake back to normal. If growing conditions are good and environmental pressures are low, it should recover without many problems, depending on how severe the original damage was. If the tree was in bad shape to begin with or has too many environmental pressures like drought, insects or disease, the odds of long-term survival decrease after construction.

The species of tree also plays an important role in determining a plan of action to ensure success during and after construction. Some trees, like oaks, elms and locust are quite tolerant of disruption, but other trees such as beech and cherry can be very sensitive to even moderate change.

Too often an arborist is called in after construction to try and “fix the trees” after the damage was done, and the process of trying to get an accurate account of activity around the tree begins. What was the original grade level of the soil? Where were trenches dug for utilities? What time of year did this take place? Where were heavy pieces of equipment, bricks and other building supplies placed? And the list goes on.

Once all the information is collected and sorted out, a determination can be made as to the tree’s chances for long-term survival or if the owner will just be delaying the inevitable. If the only option is to temporarily extend the life of the tree, the owner needs to determine for how long and if the money spent to do so is worth the end results. Out of desperation, many homeowners will unfortunately spend more money after the damage has been done “to save the tree” than they would have if they contacted someone in advance qualified to help plan out the construction project before it started. Many homeowners have had greater success in preserving trees through the inclusion of incentives in the building contract for the protection of their trees. Educating and informing all of the building employees on the site and enforcement of the agreed upon rules will go a long way to help ensure tree survival.

You need to determine how to keep disruption to the root zone to a minimum. The 3 most important factors are soil compaction, trenching, and grade changes.

If you need to trench near a tree for a foundation, a minimum of 4 to 5 feet is required from the base of the tree and if it is possible, bridging the foundation with an I-beam near the tree is an option. When trenching for utilities, try to have all of them placed in the same area as far away from the base of the trees as possible. If you can’t avoid the placement near the trunk then boring under the root zone is an option that will greatly decrease the damage to the roots. This is important even during the installation of irrigation systems.

Grade changes are common but can be minimized to avoid burying the roots or scraping them away when removing soil. Removing soil is much more damaging than adding it. Most of a tree’s root system is found in the first 12 inches of soil, with the majority of the feeder roots in the top 6 inches. These are the roots that absorb water and nutrients. The myth that trees have these massive root systems that go down as deep as the tree is tall is false. They do have anchor roots and tap roots that can go relatively deep, but by far the majority of the roots are near the surface. Removing as little as 6 inches of soil over a large area of the root system can cause a lot of damage. Adding soil can be just as bad, but it tends to be less of a shock because the change takes longer to impact the tree. If more than 12 inches of soil must be placed over the root system, a tree well and ventilation system should be installed at the existing grade before adding soil. The deeper the soil, the more ventilation will be needed. Many people install the wells, but neglect the ventilation system that will buy time and aid in the development of new roots in the new soil. By allowing air and water to get down to the original grade and gases to get out, you give the tree a big advantage for long-term survival. To minimize stress, try to keep added soil to a depth of less than 6 inches if possible.

Soil compaction is still the most common construction problem around trees in our area. Our heavy clay soil can easily be compressed (especially when wet) so that most of the air pockets are eliminated. When it hardens, it is like cement, making root growth and water absorption next to impossible. It takes a long time for the soil to recover and a lot of trees will run out of reserves before the soil improves. There are some things that can be done to lessen the compaction after construction, but preventing it in the beginning is the key to keeping your plants healthy. Keep heavy equipment and supplies away from root zones and make the areas of activity around the site large enough to get the job done, but keep disruption to a minimum. Examples of this would be establishing a zone to store supplies, setting a path for equipment and trucks to enter and leave the property, placing fencing around root zones, and mulching the root zones heavily. If a root zone cannot be avoided, then using old tires, plywood and a foot or two of mulch to minimize the compacting in that area is a great solution.

The time of the year can be important also – winter is the ideal time for construction to proceed around sensitive plants, while spring and early summer are the worst times.

Some quick do’s and don’ts to remember: Do repair all damaged roots by making clean cuts that will heal quicker than jagged, torn roots. Don’t allow the cement out of trucks and equipment to be rinsed on site near the root zones of trees – cement is very alkaline and when leached into the soil, can cause pH shock in many plants. Don’t allow trucks to be parked under the trees. Do consult a certified tree care professional prior to construction. Don’t fertilize construction-damaged trees the first year.

There are many variables to these recommendations and there are always exceptions to the rules, such as time of year, health, species, and the size of the tree affected. For example, smaller trees adapt easier than large trees, and this becomes crucial in deciding which trees to try to preserve and which to remove before construction.

Hopefully, I have made you more aware of the limitations trees have when it comes to construction around them and, in turn, helped save a few trees from demise. Just because they are alive when the construction is finished does not mean they will stay that way in the long haul. Be wise and plan ahead!

Filed Under: Tree Tips

Tips on propagating Coleus and Plectranthus

September 24, 2011   •   

I successfully took cuttings of Coleus and Plectranthus last year. I took approximately a 6-inch cutting. If I took a 12- to 18-inch cutting this fall, would I be that much further ahead toward having larger and bushier plants next spring and summer?

The answer to this question is an easy one. You say, “I successfully took cuttings of Coleus and Plectranthus last year.” It is hard for any gardener to improve on success with our plants, as hard as we may try. Sometimes we just need to leave well enough alone and enjoy our success and the fruits of our labors. Softwood stem cuttings taken in the fall from these plants (prior to a killing frost) can be enjoyed indoors all winter long. Then in March or April, again take several more cuttings and cultivate them to be planted in the garden when the weather warms. Use a sharp, clean knife to cut the stem just below a leaf node. Remove the lowest leaves, dip the cut end into a rooting hormone and insert into fresh, sterile potting soil. These cuttings will be ready to use in the garden by early June. A 4- to 6-inch cutting is a good size and any longer would be too long to successfully plant upright and could become a leggy plant. Both Coleus and Plectranthus should be pinched often to maintain their bushy habit.

Filed Under: Ask MG Tagged With: coleus, cuttings, plectranthus

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