Michigan Gardener

SIGN UP to stay in touch!
We will send you occasional e-mails with gardening tips and information!


Digital Editions

Click on the cover to read now!

  • Home
  • Departments
    • Ask MG
    • Books
    • Clippings
    • Garden Snapshots
    • MG in the News
    • Janet’s Journal
    • Plant Focus
    • Profile
    • Raising Roses
    • Thyme for Herbs
    • Tools and Techniques
    • Tree Tips
  • Garden Event Calendar
  • Resources
    • Alternatives to Impatiens
    • Garden Help
    • Soil and Mulch Calculator
    • Public Gardens
  • Web Extras
  • About
    • About Us
    • Editorial Content
    • Privacy Policy
    • Contact Us

PLEASE NOTE: In the autumn of 1995, we hatched the idea for a free, local gardening publication. The following spring, we published the first issue of Michigan Gardener magazine. Advertisers, readers, and distribution sites embraced our vision. Thus began an exciting journey of helping our local gardening community grow and prosper.
After 27 years, nearly 200 issues published, and millions of copies printed, we have decided it is time to end the publication of our Print Magazine and E-Newsletter.

Website Extra: Paul Wingert

May 31, 2012   •   5 Comments

Introduction to bromeliad care: Tips from Paul Wingert

Text and photos by Sandie Parrott

Water. They must never dry out; too dry is worse than too wet. For types with overlapping leaf bases, keep the vase area full of water. Overflow a bit for the roots. Large plants can hold several gallons of water. For terrestrial types without a vase area: keep them evenly moist; they can tolerate some dryness.

Air. Air plants (Tillandsia) are named after a botanist that was afraid of water. Mist every couple of days or dunk and soak one hour, every other week. Air plants need good air circulation—use a fan indoors in the winter and hang them outside during the summer. If elevated, you don’t have to deal with sow bugs or other ground pests.

Light. In summer, bromeliads will do well where hosta plants grow well. Wingert also uses 40 percent shade cloth on his shade house. For winter, they need all the light they can get: a south, west, or east window, or better yet, a greenhouse.

Soil. For vase plants, Wingert makes his own mix of 1/3 perlite and lava rock, 1/3 cypress mulch and aged pine bark (fine), and 1/3 peat moss. For terrestrials like Cryptanthus, Dyckia, and Orthophytum, he uses a professional soilless mix.

Pots. Wingert uses plastic. They are lightweight and fit the pot rings in his shade house. Most bromeliads like to be pot-bound.

Fertilizer. This is a constant source of debate. Some experts do not fertilize. It is believed by some that if you want more flowers and don’t care about the foliage, it is alright to fertilize. If you decide to fertilize, use water soluble fertilizer added to water. Place some in the innermost cup of the plant and a little on the soil. Bromeliads cannot handle urea or copper; make sure fertilizer does not contain either one. Air plants (Tillandsia) need high nitrogen. Guzmanias, billbergias and vriesias prefer an orchid-type fertilizer; they will bloom much better. Neoregelias need a low nitrogen fertilizer, like a cactus fertilizer.

Pests. Not a lot of pest problems exist for bromeliads. Scale will create spotting but won’t kill the plant. Use insecticidal soap and scrub lightly. Rub them off if dead. Reapply the soap in two weeks if the infestation is bad. Mealy bug may appear on flower spikes, but it shouldn’t be a concern. Watch for chipmunks planting or spreading seeds in pots.

Foliage maintenance. It is natural for the lower leaves to brown and dry; just remove them. You can carefully trim brown tips with scissors.

Propagation. Plants form pups or offshoots after they bloom. Remove them when they are 1/3 to 1/2 the size of the mother plant. Sever as close to the mother plant as possible and plant separately.

Seeds and plants. Seeds can be collected from plants or purchased. Most serious growers use their own seed or obtain seeds at seed exchanges from other growers. The Bromeliad Society International has a list of companies selling plants and seeds; visit www.bsi.org.

To learn more or attend a Southeast Michigan Bromeliad Society event, visit their website: www.bromeliad.society.gardenwebs.net/.

 

Paul Wingert displays a few of his plants at the 2010 Bromeliad Show at Matthaei Botanical Gardens.

 

Wingert’s shade structure houses bromeliad seedlings (12 to 18 months old) and more mature bromeliads from seed (2 to 3 years old), along with a few cacti and succulents.

 

This newly registered hybrid (Neoregelia 'Obsession') should develop more gold highlights as it matures. Red is seen frequently in bromeliads because it attracts pollinators. Bees often interfere in Wingert’s hybridizing plans because they like neoregelia flowers. He has also witnessed hummingbirds enjoying the nectar from some bromeliads blooms.

 

This plant can take more shade (Vriesea fenestralis). Wingert grows it for the beautifully patterned leaves. The nocturnal flowers, likely pollinated by moths or bats, resemble an ivory-colored gladiolus.

 

Left: Wingert grew this hybrid vriesea ('Eva' x 'Sunset') from seed. It takes 5 to 7 years to flower, but once it blooms, the plant keeps its color for 4 months. Right: A typical bromeliad berry. Fruit becomes soft when ripe, and often changes color. Seed is squeezed from the berries. After a few hours of drying, they're ready to plant.

 

Filed Under: Website Extras

Battling Late Blight in Tomatoes

May 29, 2012   •   Leave a Comment

As you are planting your tomato plants, it’s worth revisiting a problem that hit our area several years ago. That problem is late blight. Given the drier conditions so far, late blight isn’t expected to be that much of an issue in 2012. This video by NPR’s Science Friday is a good primer on what blight is, how to identify it and what is done to combat it.

Watch the video here…

Check out the USDA Late Blight website which traces outbreaks around the U.S.

Filed Under: Clippings

2012 Fruit Crop: Michigan’s Natural Disaster

May 27, 2012   •   2 Comments

Fruit growers, from Southwest Michigan all the way to Traverse City, are dealing with a disaster the likes of which have not been since 1947. That disaster is the result of the very early warm weather we had in March which helped fruit trees blossom early and left them vulnerable to the April freezes we experienced. As a result, fruit tree crops have been devastated.

Herald Palladium:

WATERVLIET – This is shaping up to be the worst year for Southwest Michigan’s fruit belt in more than 65 years, according to Mark Longstroth, fruit educator for the MSU Extension.

At Rodney Winkel’s 240-acre apple orchard on North Branch Road in Bainbridge Township there are no apples developing on the trees.

Mother Nature played a cruel trick on fruit trees in March, enticing fragile buds to bloom when the weather was like two hot summer weeks. And then, in April, a common late spring hard frost hit the crops and damaged the buds so badly that most of the fruit is not expected to materialize this year.

The damage in Michigan will be in the billions of dollars, Longstroth said.

Read the full story…

Filed Under: Clippings

  • « Previous Page
  • 1
  • …
  • 130
  • 131
  • 132
  • 133
  • 134
  • …
  • 285
  • Next Page »

Copyright 1996-2025 Michigan Gardener. All rights reserved.