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PLEASE NOTE: In the autumn of 1995, we hatched the idea for a free, local gardening publication. The following spring, we published the first issue of Michigan Gardener magazine. Advertisers, readers, and distribution sites embraced our vision. Thus began an exciting journey of helping our local gardening community grow and prosper.
After 27 years, nearly 200 issues published, and millions of copies printed, we have decided it is time to end the publication of our Print Magazine and E-Newsletter.

Rock cress (Aubrieta) pairs beautifully with spring bulbs

April 18, 2023   •   Leave a Comment

Aubrieta is used effectively in this rock garden.
Aubrieta is used effectively in this rock garden. (Photo: Steven Nikkila)

by George Papadelis

Of all the perennial plants we have available for April flowers, rock cress (Aubrieta) is one that combines beautifully with early season bulbs.

Aubrieta has the common names rock cress and false rock cress. This is an excellent example of when common names can be confusing. Another popular rock garden plant, Arabis, is also called rock cress. Our focus here will remain on Aubrieta, whose characteristics are similar to Arabis.

Aubrieta ‘Dr. Mules’
Aubrieta ‘Dr. Mules’ (Photo: Valleybrook Gardens)

Aubrieta is considered an excellent rock garden plant. Rock gardens can vary, but this term typically describes sunny gardens with smaller, shorter plants that look good growing among rocks. Alpine plants are usually rock garden plants; however, the term “alpines” refers to plants that originate from mountains, above the timberline. They are always compact to better withstand strong winds and are happiest in well-drained “rocky” soil. This is a little confusing, but it is interesting to note that most alpines are rock garden plants, but rock garden plants are not necessarily alpines. Aubrieta is in fact an alpine plant that originated on the mountains of southern Europe and Turkey.

Aubrieta ‘Whitewell Gem’
Aubrieta ‘Whitewell Gem’ (Photo: Walters Gardens)

Aubrieta usually begins to bloom in mid to late April and continues into May. They bloom 4 to 6 weeks, which is twice as long as the popular creeping phlox. Plants rarely grow taller than six inches and may spread as far as 24 inches. Almost all aubrieta have mat-forming, gray-green leaves that hold their color and remain alive all four seasons. The only maintenance they may require is a light trim of the leaves after flowering is completed.

Their flowers are rarely over 3/4-inch wide, but are produced in masses. Flower colors include white, pink, red, blue, and violet. Many seed-grown varieties produce flowers in a range of colors. ‘Royal Blue,’ for example, has flowers of blue, lavender, and violet. ‘Royal Red’ has flowers in shades of red, purple, and magenta. For semi-double flowers, try ‘Bengal,’ which comes in shades of lavender, cerise, and purple. Some varieties are truly one color, such as the dark purple flowers of ‘Whitewell Gem’ and the fluorescent blue flowers of ‘Novalis Blue.’

Aubrieta ‘Red Carpet’
Aubrieta ‘Red Carpet’ (Photo: Valleybrook Gardens)

Some aubrieta are grown from cuttings to more perfectly reproduce the desirable characteristics of the parent. ‘Aurea,’ also called golden aubrieta, has gold-yellow leaves that provide another attractive feature long after its blue-violet flowers have faded. ‘Aurea Variegata’ has bright gold and green bicolored leaves topped with blue-violet flowers. ‘Argenteovariegata’ forms a extra dense, 2- to 4-inch tall mound of creamy yellow variegated foliage and bluish flowers.

There are several other rock garden or wall plants for sun that bloom about the same time as aubrieta. Some of the more popular ones include Arabis, candytuft, perennial alyssum, pasque flower, and cushion spurge. All of these are great companions for bulbs that, like aubrieta, prefer well-drained, slightly alkaline soil and full sun. The blues, purples, and reds of aubrieta make perfect companions for pink tulips or golden daffodils.

Aubrieta ‘Argenteovariegata’
Aubrieta ‘Argenteovariegata’ (Photo: Valleybrook Gardens)

The well-known garden designer Lauren Springer created a beautiful combination in her garden using aubrieta. She planted it with blue-leafed, donkey-tail spurge (Euphorbia myrsinites). Its chartreuse flowers are planted with the purple flowers of rock cress in a dry corner of her yard. She writes “it is perhaps the most psychologically effective combination in the garden, setting the mood for advancing spring, filling me with delight and anticipation each time I go in and out of the otherwise still dormant garden.”

After a Michigan winter, I think it is especially important to celebrate the long-awaited spring. If you can find or create a well-drained sunny site, try using aubrieta to herald the promise of another gardening season—just like Lauren Springer.

Rock cress, false rock cress

Botanical name: Aubrieta deltoidea (aw-bree-EH-tuh del-TOY-dee-uh)
Plant type: Perennial
Plant size:  Height: 6 inches / Width: 24 inches
Habit: Mat-forming mound
Hardiness: Zone 4
Flower colors: Purple, blue, violet, red, white and pink
Flower size: 3/4-inch wide
Bloom period: Mid April to May
Leaf color: Gray-green; some varieties are variegated
Light: Full sun
Soil: Well-drained, average fertility
Uses: Rock garden, wall garden, edge of perennial beds
Companion plants: Arabis, candytuft, perennial alyssum, pasque flower, cushion spurge, short tulips and daffodils
Remarks: To prevent legginess, cut back stems after flowering to allow new growth to emerge and maintain compactness.

George Papadelis is the owner of Telly’s Greenhouse in Troy and Shelby Township, MI.

Filed Under: Plant Focus Tagged With: Aubrieta, perennial, Rock cress

Mulch volcanoes are harmful to trees—here’s why.

April 18, 2023   •   Leave a Comment

by Steve Turner

Mulching is one of the best things you can do for your plants if it is done right, but too much or improperly installed mulch can be a real problem.

The problem

The common practice of mounding mulch against the trunk has proven to be a fatal one for many trees. These often seen “mulch volcanoes” are perfect circles 8 to 12 inches thick (or more) piled against the trunk. They are actually creating more problems than they are solving.

What compounds the problem is that many of these trees are on commercial properties under professional care, and this has helped create the false impression that this is the proper way to mulch trees. Homeowners see this and imitate the practice on their own trees. The neat, clean appearance it gives a landscape is appealing to many. Actually, I have had several customers over the years ask me if there is a mold they can buy to make these volcanoes on their own trees! So in our quest for a beautiful landscape, we are unknowingly sacrificing the long-term health of the trees.

LEFT: Mounding mulch against the trunk of a tree can create problems, including wounds, decay, and girdling roots. RIGHT: Mulch should be placed in a ring around the tree, with the center around the trunk empty, like a wide doughnut.
LEFT: Mounding mulch against the trunk of a tree can create problems, including wounds, decay, and girdling roots. RIGHT: Mulch should be placed in a ring around the tree, with the center around the trunk empty, like a wide doughnut.

How does it harm trees?

The bark on the roots of a tree is much different than the bark on its trunk or branches. It is able to tolerate moisture as well as the lower oxygen levels in the soil. The aboveground portion of the tree, which starts at the root flares, has bark that contains tiny openings which are used to release gases and toxins from its system. On plants such as cherry trees or forsythias, these sites (called lenticels) are easily seen as tiny white dots or dashes on the bark. Because of this important function, trees can’t tolerate soil or mulch placed above its root flares. The lack of air and the presence of excess moisture prevents natural respiration from the bark and causes a build up of gases and toxins in the bark tissue.

The damage

If soil or mulch disrupts the respiration of the bark, the tree will usually respond in one of two ways. On thin-barked, young trees or species with naturally thin bark, like beech or linden, this disruption causes cankers (wounds) on the trunk. These appear as areas of dead tissue and provide an opportunity for decay to enter the tree. Other species will react by sending out additional roots from the trunk. These roots often end up circling around the trunk and become girdling roots in the future. Researchers are finding out that trees with girdling roots and excess soil and mulch build-up are much more prone to snapping off at the base in wind and ice storms. The longer the problem exists, the more damage occurs, and the chances of correcting it decrease.

Note that not all trees will respond in the same way—species, age, and health all need to be considered when trying to evaluate the effects of past damage. Most willow trees, for example, are very adaptable to a change of grade and often will show no problems at all.

Can the problem be fixed?

If caught soon enough, it can be corrected and tree will recover. However, upon root crown inspection, if it is found that large cankers have formed and decay is present, or if the tree has developed extensive girdling roots, it might be wiser to remove and replace the tree than attempt to save it. During the root crown inspection, arborists use a high pressure air device called an “air spade” to safely remove the excess soil and mulch without damaging the root system. Once the soil is removed, there is a clear view of the buried trunk and roots. Then the damage can be evaluated, and a decision made as to which roots to leave and which can be safely removed. It is very important not to remove too much too soon or the tree will be shocked. Sometimes the work will have to be done in stages over a couple years.

Proper mulching

While it is common to see 4 to 6 inches of mulch around a tree, this is usually too much. I would suggest 2 to 3 inches placed in a ring around the tree with the center around the trunk empty, like a doughnut. How wide to make the ring is up to you, but the bigger the better. Trees don’t like to compete with lawns for nutrients and water, and the more mulched area you can give them, the better off they will be. Mulched trees have fewer problems than trees growing in lawns. Even a small, 2- to 3-foot ring can make a big difference. The mulch creates a more natural growing environment with its organic material breaking down and supporting vital soil microbes. Other benefits include increased moisture retention and cooler soil temperatures, both of which favor optimal root growth.

If done properly, mulch is a great asset to your landscape and aids your trees during summer drought periods by maintaining soil moisture. It also helps insulate the roots during the winter months, which allows them to remain active longer through the seasons.

Steve Turner, Certified Arborist, is from Arboricultural Services (248-259-8420).

RELATED: Janet’s Journal – How to improve your clay soil

ELSEWHERE: Mulch overload!

Filed Under: Tree Tips Tagged With: mulch, mulch volcanoes, mulching, trees

Growing vegetables in containers

April 18, 2023   •   Leave a Comment

by Jeff Ball

Many homeowners live in a situation where there is insufficient space for even a small veggie patch. Those folks should consider growing vegetables in containers that can be placed almost anywhere as long as they get 8 hours of full sun.

Containers can be used to grow all the salad ingredients: lettuce, carrots, cabbage, cucumbers and tomatoes. Other popular vegetables enjoyed by most everyone are also easily grown in containers, including green beans, beets, Swiss chard and zucchini squash, just to name a few.

There are really just three criteria for the container used to grow vegetables: It must have plenty of drainage holes in the bottom, it must be at least 12 inches deep (deeper is better), and there should never be real soil used as a growing medium. All containers should use a soilless potting mix because it has no weed seeds, carries no disease spores, and drains very well. A good potting mix can be used for years, although it is wise to renew it each spring with some fresh compost and additional potting mix.

Finding containers for growing vegetables is not that difficult. Sometimes you can find some that do the job and are free for the asking. Just keep your eye out. I once spotted lots of used plastic barrels at a food processing facility. Sure enough, they were happy to get rid of them. I got four barrels, cut them in half with a saber saw and drilled a dozen holes in the bottom of each for drainage. That gave me eight large containers that I filled with potting soil and grew a nice harvest of potatoes.

A common container that is effective, but not free, is a whiskey barrel cut in half and sold in many garden centers. Again, you need to drill additional drainage holes, but because of their size, you can grow almost any vegetable in those devices. Tomatoes do especially well because there is so much space for their rather large root systems. 

Years ago, I visited a serious vegetable gardener who lived in a row house. These connected houses have tiny front yards and often no backyard. He had a significant garden growing in over 50 plastic milk crates which he had appropriated for what he considered a “higher” use. He lined the crates with black plastic bags with holes in the bottom and filled them with potting soil. The colorful boxes filled his front yard, his front porch, a second floor balcony he built for holding more boxes, and on a platform he built on top of his garage. 

I asked him if he had any complaints from the neighbors since his garden, while obviously productive, probably did not add much to the aesthetics of the neighborhood. He said he solved that problem by sharing fresh vegetables with his neighbors—a gardener with some political skills. 

All of these containers I have described require watering each day or two by hand. Unlike the soil in the garden, a container filled with plants does run out of water more frequently and must be watched every day. That said, there are self-watering containers available that significantly reduce this worry of missing a watering need. These products are designed specifically for growing vegetables and several have been on the market long enough to have proven that they work well.

Nothing tastes better than homegrown vegetables and those grown in a container can taste just as good as those from a garden.

Jeff Ball has authored eight books on gardening, vegetables, and lawn care.

RELATED: Growing low-maintenance vegetables

ELSEWHERE: MSU Guide to growing vegetables

Filed Under: Vegetable Patch Tagged With: containers, Growing vegetables in containers, vegetables

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