Michigan Gardener

SIGN UP to stay in touch!
We will send you occasional e-mails with gardening tips and information!


Digital Editions

Click on the cover to read now!

  • Home
  • Departments
    • Ask MG
    • Books
    • Clippings
    • Garden Snapshots
    • MG in the News
    • Janet’s Journal
    • Plant Focus
    • Profile
    • Raising Roses
    • Thyme for Herbs
    • Tools and Techniques
    • Tree Tips
  • Garden Event Calendar
  • Resources
    • Alternatives to Impatiens
    • Garden Help
    • Soil and Mulch Calculator
    • Public Gardens
  • Web Extras
  • About
    • About Us
    • Editorial Content
    • Privacy Policy
    • Contact Us
Home Clippings Overwintering dahlia tubers: How Dahlia Hill does it

PLEASE NOTE: In the autumn of 1995, we hatched the idea for a free, local gardening publication. The following spring, we published the first issue of Michigan Gardener magazine. Advertisers, readers, and distribution sites embraced our vision. Thus began an exciting journey of helping our local gardening community grow and prosper.
After 27 years, nearly 200 issues published, and millions of copies printed, we have decided it is time to end the publication of our Print Magazine and E-Newsletter.

Overwintering dahlia tubers: How Dahlia Hill does it

August 10, 2011   •   

For those readers interested in a little more detail about overwintering dahlias, here is a some more information that expands on the sidebar “Overwintering dahlia tubers: How Dahlia Hill does it” in the August 2011 issue of Michigan Gardener:
 
After the first hard frost in October, all the dahlia plants are carefully dug up by the Dahlia Hill Society members. Each plant can produce 5 to 20 new tubers, which are very carefully cut off the plant. They are individually labeled with a permanent marker and are rinsed in a light chlorine solution (5% chlorine to water; just enough to kill harmful bacteria). The dahlias are soaked in that solution for about 10 minutes, and then they drip dry on a screen for several minutes.

Next, they are placed into white plastic storage bags, as many as 40 or so in a bag (depending on the size of the tubers), and covered with fine, dry vermiculite. The bags are closed and folded over, but are not made airtight. The tubers are stored alphabetically in large, cardboard boxes, 3 to 6 bags per box. The basement storage room is humid and temperature-controlled to about 55 degrees.

Filed Under: Clippings

Previous Post: Can I overwinter annual ornamental grasses?
Next Post: What aren't my divided peonies blooming?

Copyright 1996-2025 Michigan Gardener. All rights reserved.