Michigan Gardener

SIGN UP to stay in touch!
We will send you occasional e-mails with gardening tips and information!


Digital Editions

Click on the cover to read now!

  • Home
  • Departments
    • Ask MG
    • Books
    • Clippings
    • Garden Snapshots
    • MG in the News
    • Janet’s Journal
    • Plant Focus
    • Profile
    • Raising Roses
    • Thyme for Herbs
    • Tools and Techniques
    • Tree Tips
  • Garden Event Calendar
  • Resources
    • Alternatives to Impatiens
    • Garden Help
    • Soil and Mulch Calculator
    • Public Gardens
  • Web Extras
  • About
    • About Us
    • Editorial Content
    • Privacy Policy
    • Contact Us
Home Ask MG Maple tree is struggling

PLEASE NOTE: In the autumn of 1995, we hatched the idea for a free, local gardening publication. The following spring, we published the first issue of Michigan Gardener magazine. Advertisers, readers, and distribution sites embraced our vision. Thus began an exciting journey of helping our local gardening community grow and prosper.
After 27 years, nearly 200 issues published, and millions of copies printed, we have decided it is time to end the publication of our Print Magazine and E-Newsletter.

Maple tree is struggling

August 27, 2010   •   

I have a bad-looking maple tree in my backyard. There has been a considerable amount of leaves falling to the ground. Some of the leaves have burnt brown areas. We have another maple 100 feet away and it is fine. Both maples are about 15 years old. What might be wrong?

The causes are fungal and bacterial diseases. Tar spot and petiole borer flourish in wet weather. Tar spot started in the spring with a tiny infection the size of a pinpoint that spread into a yellow spot as summer progressed. Although unsightly, it is a harmless, nuisance disease. Similarly, petiole borers won’t do any real damage to the tree, but the tiny insects that bore into and weaken the leaves make their presence known by the cosmetic changes to the leaves. Spraying will not help because the petiole borers are now inside the tree and impervious to surface applications.

It is advised that leaves be raked up and removed as often as possible and not run over with mulching lawn mowers. Allowing the leaves to remain under the trees and mowing over them can cause microbes to spread and the disease can return next year. Diseased debris can be burned, if local ordinances permit burning, or composted in a compost pile where internal temperatures reach 130 degrees. Trees should not be fertilized after August 1 because that encourages new growth that will be tender and vulnerable to colder temperatures.

Filed Under: Ask MG

Previous Post: The Accidental Hybrid: Discovering New Tomatoes
Next Post: Moving hydrangea houseplants outside

Copyright 1996-2025 Michigan Gardener. All rights reserved.