Michigan Gardener

SIGN UP to stay in touch!
We will send you occasional e-mails with gardening tips and information!


Digital Editions

Click on the cover to read now!

  • Home
  • Departments
    • Ask MG
    • Books
    • Clippings
    • Garden Snapshots
    • MG in the News
    • Janet’s Journal
    • Plant Focus
    • Profile
    • Raising Roses
    • Thyme for Herbs
    • Tools and Techniques
    • Tree Tips
  • Garden Event Calendar
  • Resources
    • Alternatives to Impatiens
    • Garden Help
    • Soil and Mulch Calculator
    • Public Gardens
  • Web Extras
  • About
    • About Us
    • Editorial Content
    • Privacy Policy
    • Contact Us
Home Ask MG Growing pokeweeds

PLEASE NOTE: In the autumn of 1995, we hatched the idea for a free, local gardening publication. The following spring, we published the first issue of Michigan Gardener magazine. Advertisers, readers, and distribution sites embraced our vision. Thus began an exciting journey of helping our local gardening community grow and prosper.
After 27 years, nearly 200 issues published, and millions of copies printed, we have decided it is time to end the publication of our Print Magazine and E-Newsletter.

Growing pokeweeds

October 10, 2010   •   

I have a couple poke weeds, but very much want more and I have plenty of space to grow them. Do I remove the flesh from the berries? Is stratification necessary? I am guessing that the birds like the berries so much that I never have more than a couple plants. Although at one time, I did have more when they were growing in the shade.

It has been my experience that the easiest way to grow pokeweed is to not want to grow pokeweed. However, if you have your heart set on a grove of Phytolacca americana (or Yoshu-yamagobo as it’s known in Japan) this information from the University of Florida’s Cooperative Extension Service may help:

Pokeweed may be grown from seeds in the following way. Gather about a pint of the purple berries, crush them, cover with water, and let ferment for a few days. The good seeds will settle to the bottom and the pulp and skins can be floated off and discarded. The seeds are then spread out to dry and then stored in a cool place. When it’s time to plant, the seeds can be soaked in concentrated sulfuric acid to break dormancy and speed germination. After 5 minutes the solution is poured off and seeds are washed thoroughly in running water. The seeds are again dried and are then ready for planting. The seeds should be sown early in the spring in rows 4 feet apart. The seeds should barely be covered. Finally, the seedlings are thinned to about 3 feet apart in the row.

Filed Under: Ask MG

Previous Post: Plant Focus: Grape hyacinth
Next Post: Selecting trees & shrubs for a cottage garden

Copyright 1996-2025 Michigan Gardener. All rights reserved.