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PLEASE NOTE: In the autumn of 1995, we hatched the idea for a free, local gardening publication. The following spring, we published the first issue of Michigan Gardener magazine. Advertisers, readers, and distribution sites embraced our vision. Thus began an exciting journey of helping our local gardening community grow and prosper.
After 27 years, nearly 200 issues published, and millions of copies printed, we have decided it is time to end the publication of our Print Magazine and E-Newsletter.

Determining soil drainage conditions

March 16, 2009   •   

Most plant tags say that the plant requires “well-drained soil” or  “excellent drainage.”  What exactly does that mean?  How do I know if my soil is well-drained?

Plants that require well-drained soil are sensitive to prolonged periods of saturation since oxygen has been displaced from the soil pores. Only a few plants like willows and red-twig dogwood can tolerate this condition, while most others require much better drainage. To determine whether a soil is well-drained, first ask the question, “Do I ever see standing water in that spot?” If the answer is yes, then you’ll not want to consider this area well-drained. If no standing water occurs, dig a test hole about 12 inches deep and 16 inches across. Fill the hole with water and watch how long it takes to drain out. If the hole completely drains within a few hours then consider yours a well-drained soil. Keep in mind that these conditions can vary greatly from place to place within your yard, especially near low areas or where soil compaction may once have taken place. If you wish to plant in areas that do not drain as well, keep in mind that a very wide or elevated planting hole may be the key to establishing a plant in that situation.

Filed Under: Ask MG

Birds nesting in hanging planters

March 16, 2009   •   

Birds are nesting in my hanging planters.  I don’t want to harm them, but what can I do to discourage them?

You can discourage birds from nesting in hanging baskets by putting the basket on the ground for three or four days. Birds normally like to nest in high, protected areas.

Filed Under: Ask MG

Clematis not blooming

March 16, 2009   •   

I have a 3 year-old clematis that has never bloomed. Why not?

There may be a few reasons why a clematis may refuse to cooperate when it comes to flowering. One of the more common reasons is inadequate sunlight. Clematis should receive a minimum of 6 hours of direct sun to insure that they have enough energy to produce flower buds. Clematis foliage loves the sun, but their roots like cool and moist conditions, so be sure to provide shading for the base by placing another plant or object in front and by maintaining a 2-inch layer of mulch over the rooting area.

The other reasons for not flowering may include improper pruning, as well as damage due to winter exposure. Some clematis varieties flower on new wood, while other varieties produce their glorious flowers on old wood, or last years’ growth. If an “old wood” variety is cut back in the spring, then so goes the flowering for that season. In order to determine if your clematis blooms on old wood or new wood, wait for new growth to begin. Note whether the majority of shoots are coming from the ground or from the old vines. If the shoots are coming from the ground, the old vines may be cut down. If the new growth appears on the old vines, only prune dead wood.

Lastly, if your clematis is an old wood variety located in a winter exposed area, you might be losing stems to drying and cold damage. Large amounts of dead wood in the upper portions of the plant are an indicator of this condition. Without healthy old wood, these clematis are unlikely to bloom.

Filed Under: Ask MG

Applying the proper amount of mulch

March 16, 2009   •   

What is the correct amount of mulch to use?

When using natural mulches, such as shredded bark and wood chip materials, the recommended thickness for use around trees, shrubs and evergreens is 3 inches. Remember to periodically add more mulch to planting areas as it decomposes, but be careful not to exceed the 3-inch thickness at any time.

Mulching around perennials is also recommended to help conserve moisture and to help control weeds. Apply 1 to 2 inches of mulch around plants, however be sure to keep the mulch at least 2 inches away from plants’ stems to avoid possible damage.

Filed Under: Ask MG

Wood chips vs. shredded bark

March 16, 2009   •   

Is there really any difference between wood chips and shredded bark? Should I use chips or shredded bark?

Generally speaking, wood chips are made from the actual interior wood of a tree, while bark chips are composed of the outer portion, or bark of various tree species like cedar, pine, or eucalyptus. Shredded types of bark may be all bark, or contain some wood due to the types of raw materials used to produce the particular product.

There are so many different types of mulches available…varying colors, textures, sizes of chunk, etc., that selecting a type of mulch becomes more of a personal preference than anything. All mulches will have beneficial properties that include moisture conservation, weed suppression, and soil temperature moderation.

When selecting a type of mulch to use, more consideration should be given to whether the material is in chip or chunk form versus a shredded type. Chunks may have a tendency to move around more than shredded types which tend to lock in place once they have been watered down. It may be advisable to use shredded mulch types in windy areas or those receiving high amounts of foot traffic.

Filed Under: Ask MG

Amending clay soil

March 16, 2009   •   

I love gardening in the spring, but I dread having to dig planting holes because my “soil” is really hard clay.  Can this clay actually be transformed into good soil or should I just dig it all out and bring in fresh topsoil?

Clay soils that have not been abused by construction traffic, compaction, or improper tillage can actually be great soils in which to grow plants. Unfortunately, most homeowners are cursed with clay subsoils (where the topsoil was removed for development) which usually become hard, compacted nightmares.

One solution to this problem is replacing clay with topsoil. This can be effective in small or difficult areas, but can prove to be costly and problematic since you have to find a home for all the clay you just dug out. This rock-hard clay can become a pretty good growing soil if you invest some digging work, soil building ingredients, and time. First, you’ll need to break up the clay to begin the process. Turn over the soil with a digging spade or fork and break apart the chunks as much as possible. Soil that is too dry will be difficult to penetrate and break up, while wet soil will be easy to penetrate, but difficult to break apart cleanly. You may find it necessary to wait until soil moisture conditions have improved to make this task easier. Once the area has been turned, rototill the area until you have reduced the largest chunks to 1 inch in size.

Spread 2 to 3 inches of organic matter such as sphagnum peat moss or compost into the area. Rototill the area again until the material has been thoroughly incorporated. Then add another 2 to 3 inches of the same material over the same area and rototill again. The addition of organic matter will help transform your clay into a workable soil over time, but don’t expect a miracle overnight. It may take a few seasons of further adding organic matter and spot turning the soil where plants are not present. Organic mulches will also help build the soil as they decompose when the earthworms do their job by moving these materials through the soil. The long-term success of this soil building project revolves around the continual addition of organic matter, which can be thought of as the fuel in the tank of a car. If you stop adding fuel to the tank (soil), it will eventually run dry and cause the car to stop running.

Filed Under: Ask MG

Deadheading rhododendrons

March 16, 2009   •   

Is deadheading my rhododendrons a MUST?  What happens if I don’t?  Should I be deadheading my azaleas too?

Removing faded flower trusses from rhododendrons is an important step in keeping your plants healthy and flowering for years to come. By allowing flowers to develop into seed heads, vital energy will be taken away from the plants’ ability to produce flower buds for next season. Another reason for removal is to prevent diseases that may enter through the decaying flowers. Remove spent flowers by pinching the base of the flower cluster between your thumb and index finger. Gently bend the flower stem and pull upward, being careful to not damage the new growth directly below.

Azaleas should also be given the same consideration, especially since the spent flowers usually cover the plant, thus making the discoloration more noticeable. This cleaning will allow the new growth to emerge freely as well.

Remember that the time to fertilize your rhododendron and azaleas is late spring to early summer. The first application should take place when the flowers have faded, with a second application being made 6 weeks later.

Filed Under: Ask MG

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