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I’ve seen those water absorbing crystals that you can add to containers to help them retain moisture. Can I also use these crystals in regular beds of annuals? (I travel a lot and it’s tough to keep them watered on a regular basis).

Many gardeners have discovered that adding moisture-absorbing polymers to their planting mixes reduces watering frequently during the hot summer months…a big help with hanging baskets and outdoor pots.

These crystals look a lot like grains of salt when dry. They absorb many times their weight in water and swell into something that looks like a bite size piece of jello. In the soil, these crystals capture and store water, releasing it as needed to thirsty plants.

Their use need not be restricted only to containers. These polymers can make your summer watering chores much easier…especially if you have a fast-drying, sandy soil type. In general, about six pounds of polymer crystals should be added per 1000 square feet. One application lasts several months.

I have a large pot in which I planted petunias last summer. Can I reuse the soil in the pot to plant again this summer?

It is not recommended to reuse soil for more than one season if you use a heavy topsoil type mix. However, many “soiless” types of potting mixes, which are made up of Canadian peat, perlite and vermiculite can be partially reused if you follow these easy steps. Empty the soil from the containers into a large wheelbarrow. Break up any clumps of soil and gently turn mix with your hands. Let the soil air out in a dry place for 12 hours. Add the equivalent amount of fresh potting soil to your old mix to replenish nutrients that were lost over the season.

When planting annuals, I have seen and read that you should pinch off the flowers when you plant them. This supposedly prevents the flowers from going to seed so that the annual can spend its energy creating more and fuller blooms. Is this true? If so, are there any annuals that shouldn’t be pinched back?

Removing the flowers at the time of planting lets annuals concentrate their efforts on establishing healthy roots and vegetative growth. This procedure also helps pave the way for an abundance of flowers. Basically, all annuals will benefit from removing the blooms, including flower types such as snapdragons, salvia and zinnias.

I know the main benefit of watering with a soaker hose is that the water goes right to the plants’ roots where it is needed, but how do you know exactly how much water you are applying since you can’t really see the water being delivered?

Environmentally conscious gardeners love soaker hoses. Many of today’s soaker hoses are made from recycled car tires and are a great way to supply plants with a slow, deep, uniform watering with little runoff or waste.

Soaker hoses wet an area 1 to 3 feet wide along their length, depending on soil types. If your soil is heavy in clay, hoses should be spaced 2-3 feet apart for even coverage; loam soils 1-2 feet apart; and sandy soils 1 foot apart.

Hose length should not exceed 100 feet. However, multiple lengths of 100 feet (up to 6) may be split off a main feeder hose and run simultaneously. Under normal house water pressure, a 1/2 inch soaker hose will deliver about 1 gallon per minute per 100 feet of hose, which is equivalent to 1/2 inch of moisture in 100 minutes (per 100 feet of soaker hose).

I want to use only organic fertilizers on my garden. What should I use on my annuals to achieve the best blooms? What about my perennials?

All plants need a proper balance of nutrients to grow and flower well. The major nutrients, nitrogen, phosphorous and potash are required in the largest amounts by plants. Nitrogen is regarded as the most important element for healthy foliage production. Phosphorous is essential to strong root development and flowering. Potash strengthens stems and roots, contributes to disease resistance and winter hardiness. Many minor nutrients such as iron, manganese, zinc, etc. are equally important, but used by plants in much smaller amounts.

The point to remember is that a balance of nutrients is essential to good plant growth and flowering. There are many balanced, organic-based fertilizers on the market that would work well. They can be worked into beds when turning the soil in the spring and can be used monthly during the growing season. Foliage applications of liquid seaweed will help supply additional minor nutrients.

I want to plant a perennial garden in the dappled shade below a large, old maple tree. Digging around the tree is really difficult due to all the roots; is it O.K. to create sort of a “raised bed” by adding 12-18” of topsoil beneath the tree and gradually sloping it down from the trunk to ground level?

This is a very common problem facing gardeners who are fortunate enough to have these established gems in their yards. Unfortunately, there are no easy answers that can be used in all cases. As a general rule, simply adding large amounts of soil around trees can cause severe damage when done improperly. The degree of caution depends upon the tree species, age and vigor as well as the depth of the soil and location it is to be placed beneath the tree.

The most sensitive area is near the trunk of the tree (which is where most of us want to plant!). Soil piled against the bark can cause it to decay, while covering the roots may prevent proper air and water exchange.

An inch or two of good soil spread over an area is usually safe. If you wish to add more than that, save yourself future grief by first hiring a licensed arborist to evaluate your specific situation. They will be able to best assess how much soil you might be capable of adding without injuring your valuable tree. You will have to pay for the service, but it will be far less than the cost of removing a dead tree, not to mention the loss of a beautiful, well-established specimen.

I bought a green and white ground cover. The tag said it was Aegopodium podagraria ‘Variegatum’ or “Snow on the Mountain.” My horticulture book says A. podagraria is called Bishop’s Weed or Gout Weed and that Snow on the Mountain is called Euphorbia marginata. I’m confused – please clarify.

Common plant names are a constant source of confusion in the gardening industry. The plant Aegopodium podagraria ‘Variegatum’ has only one distinct botanical name. The confusion comes from the fact that it may have several common names such as those you listed. To make matters worse, the same common name may be given to several different plants throughout various parts of the country. With today’s demand for increased variety selection, you’re finding many more plants available with overlapping common names.

George Papadelis, from Telly’s Greenhouse in Troy, adds: the common name “Snow on the Mountain” refers to both Aegopodium podagraria ‘Variegatum’ and Euphorbia marginata. The Aegopodium is a perennial while the Euphorbia is an annual. Be careful with the Aegopodium, as it is very invasive and can be extremely difficult to get rid of. The annual Euphorbia may reseed itself from year to year, but invasiveness shouldn’t be a problem.

Why don’t my lilacs bloom? They were planted 4-5 years ago and they get plenty of sun. The shrubs are 4-6’ tall, the foliage is healthy, but there are no flowers. Please help.

Stubborn lilacs may refuse to bloom for a couple reasons. First off, a healthy, fast-growing lilac may have received too much fertilizer which is causing the plant to develop vegetatively rather than reproductively. In this case, reducing the amount of fertilization will help slow the growth. Sometimes inducing a small amount of stress may cause the plant to set flower buds. This can be accomplished with careful pruning or by withholding moisture during dry periods. Never let a plant go completely dry to the crispy stage, but a slight hint of wilt during the summer may just be the right incentive for enjoying blooms next spring.

The second reason for lilacs not blooming may be due to improper pruning. Flower buds begin developing during the summer as soon as the new growth begins to harden. Any pruning done from that time forward may remove the terminal buds containing the flowers. Remember, the best time to trim a lilac is just after flowering – that is, once yours begins to flower!

My tomatoes were stunted last year. How can I prevent it this year and ensure a good crop?

Tomatoes can be stunted for a number of reasons: 1) Planting when it is still too cold can stunt growth. 2) Root bound pots should have their roots cut or torn apart before they are planted so they can root out properly. 3) Nutrient deficiency–add compost and/or Canadian peat with a general purpose vegetable fertilizer. 4) Poor light–plants need six hours of sunshine and a good amount of water. Any of the above factors or a combination of them can cause stunting in new tomato plants.

I have Lilies and Tulips left over from Easter – what can I do to make sure they bloom again next year?

Leave the lillies and tulips in the house until the weather warms. Plant them outside, remove the flower heads and allow leaves and stem to yellow, then remove. Fertilize with bonemeal or Holland Bulb Booster. Most tulip varieties are not considered dependable perennials in Michigan. The chances of your tulips returning successfully for several years depends on whether or not sufficient food reserves can be returned to the bulb. This can be accomplished by cutting off the flowers as the petals drop (do not allow them to go to seed), fertilizng as soon as they finish flowering, and most importantly, leaving the foliage intact as long as possible. That will allow the bulbs to develop to their full potential, next year.