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PLEASE NOTE: In the autumn of 1995, we hatched the idea for a free, local gardening publication. The following spring, we published the first issue of Michigan Gardener magazine. Advertisers, readers, and distribution sites embraced our vision. Thus began an exciting journey of helping our local gardening community grow and prosper.
After 27 years, nearly 200 issues published, and millions of copies printed, we have decided it is time to end the publication of our Print Magazine and E-Newsletter.

How late is it safe to plant?

November 29, 2009   •   

I hear that fall is a good time for planting perennials, but if I remember correctly, planting should cease around early to mid-October. However, it seems like I see landscapers planting into November or even December; what do they do differently so they can extend their planting season?

When to stop planting perennials often depends on how warm the fall is. Usually mid to late October is the latest you would plant. If it is unusually warm into early November, then go for it!

 There are four things to remember when planting in the fall. The planting hole must be prepared properly before putting in the plant. When planting, you should always use a rooting stimulant instead of fertilizers. This is especially true in the fall since you want the roots to take hold before the cold hits. Apply 1 to 2 inches of mulch on the soil, but leave 2 to 3 inches of space around the base open to alleviate crown rot.

The most important thing to remember is to water up until the first hard freeze. Water at least once a week for the best root development and to alleviate stress to the plant. Even though the top is going dormant, you must remember that the roots are still growing down below! Don’t depend on fall rains to supply proper moisture levels.

Filed Under: Ask MG

Shrubs with good winter characteristics

November 28, 2009   •   

I have a fairly small garden and would like some ideas of small to medium size shrubs that have good winter characteristics.

A few shrubs for winter interest include dogwoods that have either a red or yellow bark; ninebark, which has a peeling bark that adds winter interest; and burning bush that has a really coarse, corky bark. Another plant you may consider is a Harry Lauder’s walking stick (Corylus ‘Contorta’), as it adds a lot of winter interest due to its contorted and twisted shape.

Filed Under: Ask MG

Sowing seeds for next year

November 27, 2009   •   

I purchased many flower seeds, most being perennials. Can I sow the seed now and try to get a bit of a head start for next year? Since nature drops its seeds as flowers finish blooming, can I expect a good result? Any tips on how to go about this? If it is too late to sow them now, can they be kept? They are not opened; should I put them in a plastic bag and refrigerate?

It is too late to sow your seeds now. If you purchase perennial seeds in the future but don’t plant them in the spring, then you could try and plant them in the early fall. Plant according to package directions in a lightly mulched bed. In the spring it is important to keep the bed evenly moist before the seeds sprout.

You will likely receive the best results if you plant the seeds in the spring by either starting indoors in February or March, or by planting directly in the bed in May. Store the seeds in an airtight container in your refrigerator. A small jar or a ziplock bag would work fine. If starting indoors to get a jump on nature, you need a good fluorescent light and seed trays. There are many seed-starting kits available that make it an easy and enjoyable task.

Filed Under: Ask MG

Plant Focus: Persian Parrotia

November 25, 2009   •   

persian-parrotiawww.waysidegardens.com
Persian Parrotia
 
by Eric Grant

As the relaxing breezes of fall’s changing season waft across the land, autumnal tradition is at hand. With flower beds cleaned, and perennials cut back and mulched, the eyes of gardeners lift from the ground and look to the trees in anticipation of the colorful encore of fall. It is tradition. Neither written nor posted on our garden paths, it is the soulful refuge which caps our efforts of another growing season. This culmination of the gardening experience is one of the few for which we need do nothing. It comes to us each year without our prodding, regardless of how well we fertilized, kept up with the weeds, or carefully cultivated our palette of plants.

The predictably late emerging color of one particular tree always catches my attention. The masterful blends of everything autumn are held by the Persian parrotia (Parrotia persica).

persian-parrotiawww.whiteflowerfarm.com/
Persian Parrotia
 
Given the vibrant yellow, vivid orange, and nearly screaming scarlet tones of the leaves, I can’t help but wonder why this relatively unknown tree is scarcely planted. With a size and habit inadvertently tailored to suburban landscapes, its rarity is assuredly curious. Usually maturing in the realm of 25 to 30 feet, this is a tree which can truly proclaim being problem-free. It bears strong branching, a multitude of attributes throughout the year, and a grandeur from which insects and diseases run. Whether they know it or not, this is the tree sought by homeowners everywhere, yet found by few. Even in a year of muted tones, the colorful fall performance of Persian parrotia is outstanding.

The harmony of its hues caused me to reflect on its name. I have known this tree for years and have always thought it appropriate that it had the word “parrot” within its title. Research, however, revealed that “Parrot” was actually the name of a naturalist for whom the tree was named, not at all the colorful bird I had assumed. Also ironic is the species name “persica” which aptly refers to its persistence. And persistent it is. While its color is late, it reliably holds well beyond its peers.

When the season’s applause is dropped from its branches, I find myself no less disappointed. The smooth, young, silvery branches are held upright by a maturing trunk cloaked in the most appealing bark. The somewhat peeling, patchy tapestry of brown, green, silver-gray, and off-white offer the most delicate interest. Eye-catching in any season, winter heralds its greatest contrast, as it will again be persistent to not disappoint. Few people consider the winter elements of the things they plant, and even fewer plan for them. Once again, Persian parrotia inadvertently shines through!

So many outstanding attributes leave me nearly aghast to know that there is indeed more. Although some months off, and content with its current presentation, spring will reveal yet another visual delight. Following the small, curious blooms in March (often missed from a distance), the young, unfurling leaves are a purplish shade of burgundy I can’t otherwise describe. The contrast against its spring-green palette seems to enforce the reason that colors themselves exist. Often holding its tones well into spring, these leaves will eventually transform into a rich, deep green. In conjunction with deeply textured leaves, it provides an effect that is both cooling and calming.

Persian parrotia, it seems, knows exactly what we need in every season and then provides it. While native to the Middle East, this tapestry of a plant couldn’t be better suited to our gardens. I can no longer imagine my yard without it.

Eric Grant is from Telly’s Greenhouse in Troy, Michigan.


At a glance: Persian parrotia

Botanical name: Parrotia persica (puh-ROE-tee-uh PER-sik-uh)

Plant type: Deciduous tree

Plant size: 25-35 feet tall and wide

Growth rate: Medium to slow (8 to 14 inches per year)

Habit: Rounded to broad oval

Hardiness: Zone 4-8

Flower color: Scarlet

Flower size: Small (less than 1/2 inch), inconspicuous

Flower time: March

Leaf color: Spring: deep burgundy; Summer: deep green; Autumn: red, orange, and yellow

Leaf size: Length: 2-1/2 to 5 inches; Width: 1 to 2-1/2 inches

Bark: Mature branches and trunks display a mottled tapestry of brown, green, silver-gray,  and off-white

Light: Full sun to light shade

Soil: Well-drained, slightly acidic

Uses: Ideal alternative for foundation plantings, or as a small specimen tree for the yard

Remarks: Few other trees can claim the bounty of beauty in four seasons; free of diseases and insects

Filed Under: Plant Focus

Working with freshly ground wood chips

November 8, 2009   •   

I was thrilled by a recent acquisition of shredded/chipped/mulched trees from a contractor removing storm-damaged neighborhood trees, but now I am second guessing its value. I know some of the trees were healthy; others, I have no idea. Does this material need to be treated? Is it (a treatment) something a homeowner can do? If not, what does one do with 5 or 6 yards?!

There are two negatives that come when you take free wood chips from trees that you are not familiar with, both of which are fairly easily remedied at no cost to you. The first problem is that if the tree had any soilborne disease such as verticillium wilt, which can be found in some maple trees, the wood chips from that tree can spread the disease to your soil as well. The other potential problem is that freshly chipped material, as well as material that includes a lot of leaves in it, takes a lot of nitrogen from your soil to aid in the breaking-down process that all organic mulches go through during a season.

To remedy these problems, treat your new mulch as a pile of compost for part of the year. If you can find an area in your yard to store the 5 yards throughout the winter and early spring, go ahead and place it there. The mulch will continue to break down while it is stored in a pile. This composting process produces quite a bit of heat within the pile. Not only does the process of composting reduce the need for the mulch to consume nitrogen from your soil, the heat from the pile kills off many of the organisms that can cause diseases within your newly mulched garden.

Filed Under: Ask MG

Trumpet vines won’t bloom

November 7, 2009   •   

I have a trumpet vine about 5 years old that has never shown a hint of blooming. It does not seem to adhere to a trellis, but grows along the ground until I attach it to the trellis. It gets sunlight for about one-half the day. I also have another trumpet vine that gets full sun, but it has the same problems.

As far as the trumpet vine goes, you could try a couple different things. The first thing to look at is fertilizing. Be sure that you are using a fertilizer that is high in phosphorus (the middle number when you are reading a fertilizer label, such as 0-20-0). Also, avoid a excessive nitrogen fertilizer, which is a high first number (15-3-3). This may mean that you have to watch out where your lawn fertilizer is being spread, since lawn fertilizer is high in nitrogen. Be sure to avoid your trumpet vine when you fertilize your lawn. Also, moderate stress on the plant may induce flowering, so only water as needed and do not overfertilize.

Another way of inducing flowering from your trumpet vine is to do something called root pruning:

1) Cut a circular slit in the ground that is centered around the stem of the plant. The circle should have a diameter of two feet for every one inch of trunk diameter. Use a sharp, pointed shovel to make a slit by plunging it into the ground as far as possible, then rock the handle back and forth slightly to create a V-shaped cut. Proceed around the plant until the circle is complete.

2) Sprinkle bone meal or superphosphate into the opening at a rate of 1 cup per inch of stem diameter.

3) Use a gentle stream of water to wash the powder downward.

4) Once the water has disappeared, use your foot to lightly push down on either side of the cut to close the opening.

5) Replace the mulch over the worked area and water thoroughly to settle the loosened soil.

Filed Under: Ask MG

Difficulty getting hibiscus to bloom

November 6, 2009   •   

Next, I have a 7 to 8 foot hibiscus tree that is about 4 years old. It gets sunlight all day. The buds are so plentiful that the branches droop to the breaking point, yet it has never blossomed. I tried Miracle Gro this season (as I did with the trumpet vine) and got 3 blooms out of about 300 buds. Help!

As far as the hibiscus tree goes, I’m not sure if you are referring to an indoor hibiscus tree or a rose of Sharon, which is an outdoor tree with Hibiscus syriacus as it’s Latin name. I am going to assume that you are referring to the rose of Sharon, since the trumpet vine you mentioned is also an outdoor plant. Since the tree receives full sun, let’s concentrate on its fertilization. The two main things to do are fertilize with a high phosphate fertilizer and reduce the amount of high nitrogen fertilizer, as mentioned above with the trumpet vine.

Filed Under: Ask MG

Office paper, newspaper and composting

November 6, 2009   •   

Can I use shredded typing paper (today’s inkjet paper) for composting and a mulch? Also, can I use newspaper (with ink) for composting and a mulch?

It is alright to use typing paper and newspaper within your compost pile. They aren’t recommended to be used as a mulch without being composted first, mostly for aesthetic reasons. Also, they will not stay in place for too long without being blown away.

Filed Under: Ask MG

Plant Focus: Fern-leaf Bleeding Heart

October 20, 2009   •   

Fern-leaf-Bleeding-Heart-Dicentra-Luxuriantwww.waysidegardens.com
Dicentra ‘Luxuriant’
Fern-leaf-Bleeding-Heart-Dicentra-BacchanalK. Van Bourgondien / 800-437-7501
Dicentra ‘Bacchanal’
by George Papadelis

Fern-leaf bleeding heart boasts versatility, durability, and beauty. It differs from its cousin, old-fashioned bleeding heart (Dicentra spectabilis), in many ways. Old-fashioned bleeding heart can grow up to 4 feet tall and equally wide. The common form produces the classic white “heart” shaped flowers that “bleed” rosy red “drips” on either side of each flower. The blossoms emerge in spring and gracefully cascade from arching stems. Flowers last 6 or more weeks, but the plants usually go dormant by summer. They are therefore best planted in the rear of the border behind summer bloomers. In contrast, fern-leaf bleeding heart rarely grows over 15 inches, will bloom almost all summer long without going dormant, has handsome cut-leaf foliage, and has smaller “non-bleeding” flowers. These are available in a range of leaf and flower colors that provide gardeners with many choices for their shadier spots.

Fern-leaf bleeding heart is a North American native that can actually be divided into two very similar species. The western species, Dicentra formosa (western bleeding heart), occurs naturally from northern California to British Columbia while our eastern species, Dicentra eximia (fern-leaf or fringed bleeding heart), is found from New York to Georgia. Breeders in America and Europe have used these to develop several interesting varieties with flowers that range from white to pink to lavender to deep red. ‘Luxuriant’ is the most readily available variety and has cherry red flowers above 12- to 15-inch blue-green foliage. For an excellent white, try ‘Snowdrift’ or ‘Snowflakes’; both have blue-green leaves and grow 10 to 14 inches tall. For one of the deepest reds and almost silver-blue leaves, look for ‘Bacchanal’ at only 8 to 10 inches tall. Most of the newer varieties have beautiful foliage that is worth considering for any semi-shady site.

Fern-leaf bleeding hearts form slow-spreading clumps that require no maintenance all season long. They can tolerate the coldest of winters and are not too particular about soil type as long as it isn’t too heavy. They do, however, thrive in moist, fertile soil. Plants will tolerate full sun, but prefer a semi-shaded site. Too much shade, however, will discourage flowering, which typically lasts from spring until fall. Avoid positioning this plant where competition from tree roots will occur since the lack of water and nutrients can make bleeding hearts only last for a few years. To maintain the healthiest, longest-blooming plants, divide the crown every 3 or 4 years in early spring or late summer. When planting new divisions, take advantage of this opportunity to amend your soil with organic matter such as compost, manure, or aged pine bark. Once established, this disease- and insect-resistant plant will effortlessly flower for years without requiring staking, deadheading, or pruning.

The relatively small size of fern-leaf bleeding heart makes it ideal for the front of the shady garden. It can also be used nestled between boulders in your rock garden or planted among trillium and Jack-in-the-pulpits in your woodland garden. Its tidy, bluish foliage and long season of bloom combine to make it useful as an edging plant too. The blue-green ferny leaves are contrasted beautifully by the bold purple-red leaves of coral bells (Heuchera) or by the large gold leaves of Hosta ‘Daybreak.’ Plant fern-leaf bleeding heart with an ornamental grass for shade such as golden hakone grass (Hakonechloa macra ‘Aureola’). Its fine, wispy gold leaves against the ferny blue-green leaves of the bleeding heart would provide a long-lasting combination of different colors and textures.

George Papadelis is the owner of Telly’s Greenhouse in Troy, MI.


Fern-leaf-Bleeding-Heart-Dicentra-eximia-Snowdriftwww.whiteflowerfarm.com
Dicentra eximia ‘Snowdrift’
Fern-leaf-Bleeding-Heart-Dicentra-King-of-HeartsWalters Gardens
Dicentra ‘King of Hearts’
Fern-leaf-Bleeding-Heart-Dicentra-Snowdriftwww.whiteflowerfarm.com
Dicentra ‘Snowdrift’

At a glance: Fern-leaf Bleeding Heart

Botanical name: Dicentra eximia (dy-SEN-truh eks-IM-ee-uh)

Plant type: Perennial

Plant size: 10 to 15 inches tall and wide

Habit: Clump-forming mound

Hardiness: Zone 3

Flower color: Pink, deep pink, cherry red, deep red, white

Flower size: 1 inch long, narrow heart-shaped

Bloom period: Spring to fall

Leaf color: Blue-green, gray-green

Leaf size: 4-12 inches long, fern-like

Light: Partial shade

Soil: Well-drained, fertile, moist 

Uses: Front of the shade border; rock garden

Companion plants: Hostas (smaller, gold- and blue-leaved varieties), purple-leaved coral bells (Heucheras)

Remarks: Grown in the proper conditions, may self-seed in the garden. Divide every 3 to 4 years. Avoid dry soil areas in the summer.

Filed Under: Plant Focus

Michigan Gardener still growing 14 years later

October 19, 2009   •   

Jonathon and Eric HofleyCheck out the following story on Michigan Gardener published Sunday, October 18 in the Oakland Press.

 

Filed Under: MG in the News

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