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I am moving to a new house that is located on a freshwater lake. The backyard has three different levels that are built like stairs; they are large areas of land. What plants would be best suited for this environment, and which ones should I refrain from planting?

Your recognition of the impact on the lake is admirable. The sections you describe are known as bulwarks and are intended to prevent erosion of land into the lake. First and foremost, avoid the use of fertilizers and pesticides. Since they pass through the soil and are so close to the lake, they enter almost immediately. Just a couple of the effects are increased algae growth and killed fish. To avoid having to use fertilizers, stick with native plants (because they are native, they require little or no fertilizer to thrive), especially in the first three zones from the water’s edge to your lawn zone. In addition, plants (rather than lawn) will absorb fertilizer runoff before it hits the lake. If the lawn extends all the way out to the lake, remove at least 10 to 12 feet of lawn and replace it with native trees, ground cover, shrubs, ferns and wildflowers. The first few feet from the waterline needs to be water-loving plants (sedges, lady fern, etc.). The next 10 feet will require plants that prefer moist soil, but not wet. Finally, the last zone extends to the lawn. A variety of shade trees is important for this area. All of this does not mean you must create a barrier of plants that block your access or view; just try to use a combination that will allow continued viability of the lake and an enjoyable view for you.

With all of the winter injury this year my rhododendrons have lost many leaves. They are recovering now but the new leaves are much higher and reveal more of the woody stems. Is there a way to prune to encourage leaf development in the lower portion of the shrub?

Remove any branches that are winter-killed or damaged. In the spring, judiciously prune back half of the plant by about half their height. Leave the other half of the plant alone to reduce the shock. The following spring, perform the same procedure to the untouched half. You may have to forsake a few blossoms for a season in order to get lush growth established. Plant other perennials around the base to mask the bare branches until it fills in. Make sure your rhododendrons are watered regularly even in the fall so that they go into winter with adequate soil moisture. Also ensure adequate mulch, at least 3 inches deep. Re-evaluate your site conditions. You may need to provide protection from winter wind and sun that cause desiccation. Make sure the soil is well-amended with compost. Rhododendrons are actually light feeders. If the soil is properly enriched, they will get all their nutrients from the soil and will not require a rigorous fertilizing schedule. A healthy plant stands a far better chance against the unpredictability of Michigan winters.

I have an unusual hosta which has been growing for 3 years, and doesn’t look like any other in my yard. It is possibly a new variety. How would I go about getting a patent on it?

Your hosta is still a youngster by hybridizer’s standards. There are well over 1000 cultivars registered with the International Registration Authority for Hosta. Young hostas, whether seedlings or sports, should always be grown for 5 to 7 years to establish whether they are stable and worthwhile. If they are, there are clearly established criteria for naming. The hosta must be clearly distinct from all other hostas, it must be uniform and stable in characteristics, and must remain constant when propagated. Contact the American Hosta Society, Registrar, University of Minnesota Landscape Arboretum, P.O. Box 39, 3675 Arboretum Drive, Chanhassen, Minnesota 55317. They can provide you with additional information, instructions, and the registration form. If you have access to the web, their site is www.hosta.org, complete with the Society’s history, registration forms and how to process, as well as plenty of useful information about raising hostas.

There is an area in my yard where grass will not grow. It is shaded, near a patch of woods, and on a slight slope. It seems like we replant grass every year, and it will not get established. Any suggestions?

Yes. Stop throwing money away on grass! The very first things that should be considered when siting any plant are its cultural requirements, or “location, location, location.” Many people don’t think about the lawn as a mass of plants, all requiring a special situation in order to thrive. So that said, go at your search backwards: “It is shaded, near a patch of woods, and on a slight slope.” What would work there? The combination of the slope and the tree roots likely also makes the area dry. Under those conditions, you may want to try Epimediums or Geranium macrorrhizum (bigroot geranium). If it’s not real dry, there’s a whole world of shade plants to play with.

I am interested in growing strawberries. What soil, sun, and conditions are best for them? J.M.

Strawberries, like most fruits and vegetables, require full sun. The soil should drain well, as excess surface moisture will encourage mold on the berries. The soil also should have a very rich level of organic matter. Locate strawberries in an area that will warm up quickly in the spring. It also should freeze in the winter, since strawberries need an extended period of cold to produce fruit. Parts of the country where there are not freezing temperatures, such as California, grow strawberries as annuals, importing them from areas such as Michigan after they have had their requirement of cold.

Last year, I moved some wild purple irises from a shady area to a sunny area. At that time, they bloomed in late May. This year, they had no buds on them at all by May 18. Is there a chance they will bloom this year, or ever? Any recommendations?

It sounds like you moved some blue flag (Iris versicolor). Blue flag will tolerate full sun to light shade, but prefers wet meadows, stream banks and marshes. This has not been a warm spring, as in past years. Their time to bloom is late spring to mid-summer, so give them time. However, make sure there is sufficient moisture in their new location and that you have not transplanted the rhizomes too deep. As with all irises, placing the root systems horizontally just below the soil surface is best. It may take another year before they acclimate to the move and their new site before they establish and bloom.

My brother-in-law has many oak trees in his front yard and every fall he rakes up the leaves. I told him to just mulch them in (the soil is quite sandy) as they will help improve the soil. He said that would make the soil too acid. Will this dramatically raise the soil acidity? What if he composted all the leaves; would the compost be too acid to use as well?

Actually, your brother-in-law has a gold mine. Oak leaves in particular are very good for garden soil as they contain micronutrients drawn from the depths of the earth. The best way to add them into the garden is to rake them into a shredder or run over them with a power mower. The oak leaf needs to be broken up in order to release its nutrients. Then they can be tilled into the garden bed using a garden fork. If left intact, oak leaves mat together and promote unhealthy bacteria, which can be transmitted to planted material. Once shredded, they can be worked into the sandy soil, offering an excellent organic amendment to a soil that drains too quickly. It will not dramatically raise the soil acidity. The leaves can be composted but again, must be shredded or chopped up to effectively decompose. If mixed in with ongoing compost, they will degrade much faster and more thoroughly.