ehofley, Author at Michigan Gardener

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What are the bugs on my nicotiana and how can I control them?

November 12, 2011 •

I grew Nicotiana sylvestris for the first time this year and I have three questions. First, as the plants started to blossom this spring, tiny white and brown bugs appeared all over both the flowers and the foliage, especially the undersides. Near the end of the season, there must have been thousands of these bugs all over the plants! The foliage and flowers were healthy and bloomed wonderfully all season. I tried insecticidal soap in the early summer, but that didn’t seem to faze them. Should I be worried about these bugs overwintering, and what, if anything, should I do differently next year?

Second, at season’s end, I noticed that each seed head had dozens of tiny, brown particles. Are these all seeds? If not, is there just one seed per each “head”? It seems difficult to determine what exactly the seed is. Does this plant self-seed? Third, should this plant be deadheaded throughout the season? As each white bloom faded to brown, I plucked it out, but should I also have cut off the oval seed heads?

What you probably had on your Nicotiana were aphids. They attack the tender new growth and buds of fleshy plants, including Nicotiana. When these insects shed their exo-skeleton they fall on the foliage and give the appearance of thousands. Aphids reproduce rapidly, especially in hot weather, therefore it is difficult to get rid of them quickly. Insecticidal soap will work, but must be applied every 6 to 8 days to kill any eggs that might hatch. For another natural way of getting rid if these pests, try ladybugs. They can be purchased at your local garden center and can take care of a large population of aphids in a matter of days.

The seed pod on Nicotiana is the green, oval shaped part at the base of the flower. These should be removed for flower longevity. In mild winters, Nicotiana can self-seed if the seed pods are left on the plant.

Volunteers help plant a greener Detroit

November 11, 2011 •

As reported by The Greening of Detroit, 2,276 volunteers planted 2,623 trees throughout the city of Detroit, making this spring’s planting season the largest The Greening of Detroit has ever done. The planting season started on March 26 and continued every Saturday, at two different locations, until June 11. Dedicated volunteers worked diligently to help plant trees and beautify Detroit.

Spring planting initiatives by The Greening of Detroit focused on a variety of areas and extended across a variety of locations. The Detroit Water and Sewage Department Storm Water Reforestation Project was implemented to absorb ground water and detain storm water before it travels to storm drains. The Emerald Ash Borer Great Lakes Restoration Initiative replaced trees destroyed by the Emerald Ash Borer.

What is causing my columbine to brown and drop its foliage every spring?

November 11, 2011 •

Over the past couple years, I have noticed the same two things happen to my columbine foliage each spring. After the plants reach peak bloom, the leaves start to get curvy, light brown lines though them. Shortly thereafter, all the foliage is gone, seemingly overnight—bare stems are all that remains. The plants bloom well each spring and the foliage is healthy before the problems occur. Should I be doing anything about this?

Columbine is one of the loveliest plants for the partial shade garden. Its susceptibility to columbine leaf miners is one of the few disappointing aspects of this perennial. This annoying little critter that likes to decorate columbine leaves with its winding, whimsical and white trails belongs to the family of leaf-mining flies. The pale brown adult fly lays its eggs on the underside of the leaves where the eggs hatch and the larvae that emerge penetrate the leaf and live between the upper and lower surfaces of the leaf. They feed on the inner leaf tissue, creating winding trails usually light green, light brown or white in color. The infested leaves may turn white and die.

Spraying the infested plant with a systemic insecticide is the best solution to the problem. Orthene or Cygon are two Ortho brand products that will work well for the elimination of these pests. You may also use these products as a preventative measure by applying the insecticides to the foliage before it is infested. As with all insecticides, follow the directions on the package carefully. It is also recommended to remove and destroy any infested leaves. Also, be sure to rake out and destroy any foliage remains in the fall.

The “here today – gone tomorrow” mystery surrounding columbine foliage is a problem entirely separate from the designing leaf miners. Foliage stripped off in one day leaving nothing but a columbine skeleton can be blamed on chewing caterpillars. These tiny, green, munching machines attack plants in late spring and early summer, just as your columbine is coming into full glory! Columbine’s beloved delicate and thin leaves are the perfect texture for their insatiable appetites. Usually flowers and stems are the only remnants left standing, bobbing in the wind.

All is not lost, however, as the foliage will grow back in the same season and the plant will certainly return year after year since the root system is not affected by the caterpillars. Protecting the new growth, before or after a caterpillar attack, is the key. As with the control of the leaf miners, Orthene or Cygon are your best bet to get rid of the caterpillars. Apply early in the season before these pests can do any damage, usually the end of May.

Can wood from a diseased tree be used for firewood?

November 10, 2011 •

Can any logs be used for firewood? Is there a problem in using logs from a diseased tree?

First of all, it is best for the “health” of your fireplace to use wood from hardwood trees (maple, oak, ash, hickory, elm, apple, etc.) rather than from evergreen trees. Evergreens contain high amounts of resins, which can quickly accumulate in the chimney as creosote, thereby creating a fire hazard.

Burning wood from diseased trees is usually not a problem, since the disease will not spread by smoke. Occasionally, storing logs can be a concern if there are active insects present in the wood itself, especially when bark beetles or borers are involved. In most cases, simply removing the bark can expose the insects to the elements and make the wood safer to store.

Garden Snapshot: Gingko

November 9, 2011 •

Jonathon Hofley / Michigan Gardener
A gingko shows off its golden yellow fall foliage.

The debate heats up over labeling of genetically modified foods

November 9, 2011 •

NPR:

Foods that have been genetically modified — that is, foods that have new genes inserted into their DNA to give them desirable traits like pest or drought resistance or greater nutrition — have been controversial for years. And that’s in part because they are currently not required to be labeled in the U.S., although the vast majority of people polled say they should be.

Read the full story here…

Do blue spruce trees grow well in South Carolina?

November 9, 2011 •

Do blue spruce trees grow in South Carolina? We have a small blue spruce in a pot in Michigan and would like to move it to the Hilton Head area (South Carolina).

The Colorado spruce (Picea pungens) is native to the southwestern United States from Wyoming south to New Mexico. Colorado spruce are listed as USDA hardiness zones 3 to 7 and possibly zone 8. The Hilton Head area of South Carolina is zone 8, the maximum southernmost range for the Colorado spruce. This tree generally does not perform well in the heat of the deep south and they tend to decline over time. If you supply irrigation to the tree during the summer, you have a much better chance of long-term survival. Without irrigation the tree will probably not do well. The variety ‘Iseli Foxtail’ has been reported to prosper in Raleigh, North Carolina (zone 7b), and may do well as far south as Hilton Head.

What is the green moss substance covering the ground in my yard?

November 8, 2011 •

I have noticed that my ground is covered with green mold, or at least I’m assuming it’s mold. Could you tell me what the problem might be and how to correct it? This is an area that gets full sun for at least 8 to 10 hours a day.

What you are describing sounds like moss. Moss usually grows in moist, dark areas that have a low pH soil (acidic). Since the area you describe is sunny, it probably has acidic or moist soil. You can either apply a moss killer to the area or scrape the surface to remove the moss. After the moss is dead or removed, you will want to improve the soil compaction (compact soil stays moist longer) by adding topsoil and peat moss to the area. You will also want to apply lime to help raise the pH level of the soil. Improving soil compaction and raising the pH level should prevent moss from showing up in the future.

What is causing Sedum and spring poppies to flop over?

November 7, 2011 •

My Sedum ‘Autumn Joy’ and my spring poppies just cannot hold themselves upright. They are laying all over the ground like someone sat in the middle of the stems. Any idea why? Is it time to divide the clumps?

We are assuming that you are referring to the large, Oriental poppies. After blooming, Oriental poppies tend to decline and go dormant for the hot summer months. They will flatten out as this process occurs. If it does look unsightly, you can stake them as they grow early in the season, and the growth will hide whatever you use to support them.

Sedum ‘Autumn Joy’ will get very heavy toward the tops of the stems as they go into bloom. Water collects there when it rains, and that is generally when most plants tend to “flop.” Growing the plants in a location that remains fairly dry (or very well-drained) and receives no less than about six hours of direct sun should help the plants remain somewhat shorter, and more able to support themselves. Staking them is also an option; doing so before they get too large to hold themselves up is best.

Also, most perennials benefit from being divided every three to five years, depending on the growth rates of the individual plants. So if your clumps are large, it may be time to divide them. This tends to work rather well in the case of the Sedum.

Organic food options not always safer

November 7, 2011 •

Associated Press via NPR:

While sales for food produced on smaller operations have exploded, partially fueled by a consumer backlash to food produced by larger companies, a new set of food safety challenges has emerged. And small farm operations have been exempted from food safety laws as conservatives, farmers and food-lovers have worried about too much government intervention and regulators have struggled with tight budgets.

Read the full story here…

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